Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 12/09/2017
Very Fondant
Length/grade/stars: 12m D
Start location:
From the large ledge at the Quarry (northern) end at the start to Quality Street, walk up leftwards (facing out) for a few metres, then scramble down leftwards (facing out) to reach a small ledge just above high water mark. Start here below a slabby groove which transforms itself into a flake.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove and flake and finish rightwards.
Little Sunny Slab
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Start location:
Start as for Very Fondant.
Pitch descriptions:
4a Descend for 1 metre, step right around the rib and follow a shelf diagonally rightwards to below the centre of an attractive slab. Search for the crucial runner and follow the fine slab to the top.
Skid Row
Length/grade/stars: 16m S
Start location:
Just right of the finish of Little Sunny Slab is a cliff top cut-out. Scramble down the ridge just left (facing out) of the cut-out to high water mark; start here.
Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse left, with feet at barnacle level, to a small ledge, just right of the edge of the wall. From the left end of the ledge climb the wall and narrow flake crack to the cut-out.
Date of ascent: 14/09/2017
Temeraire
Length/grade/stars: 50m VS
Start location:
Start as for Quality Street (Quarry, northern side!).
Pitch descriptions:
- 25m 4a Follow Quality Street until it begins to rise; keep low ( 3 metres above high water mark), to gain a stance atop a crinkly slab which slants down into the sea. This is where the traverse becomes much more difficult; also there is a blank groove just left and a red crack above.
- 25m 4b Climb the steep red crack and pull over onto a white ledge ( this is where Quality Street crosses!). Move up into the groove on the right and follow it, as the angle eases trend slightly leftwards to gain the finishing terrace.
Descent:- depending on where the gear has been left, traverse left or right along the terrace. Exposed, rope recommended!
Blanca
Length/grade/stars: 10m HS
Start location:
Start as for Very Fondant.
Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib on the right, step right and follow the left side of the slab via the thin, horizontal seams.
Jammy Dodger
Length/grade/stars: 11m S
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Jim Jam on a small flake ledge just above high water mark below the left side of the right edge of the wall. Gained by abseil or down-climbing just left (facing out) of the edge.
Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the edge to a ledge, finish up the white groove.
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