Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 14/11/2017
Roots Manuva
Length/grade/stars: 11m HS
Start location:
Start as for Teemin’ (CC Website)
Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Teemin’ for 4 metres, then step left to reach a series of slanting cracks. Move down leftwards onto a good foothold at the base of a small niche; from where a left-trending flake crack gives a brisk finish. Fine climbing!
Additional info:
The route name: apparently a famous and popular rapper (whatever that is?); but it fits!
Date of ascent: 16/11/2017
Squirm Hole
Length/grade/stars: 10m S
Start location:
On the landward side of the buttress containing Teemin’ etc, is a cleft. Scramble into the cleft and belay on a black boulder at mid water level.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short greasy corner to a ledge, then chimney out to the light.
Tinctoris
Length/grade/stars: 9m S
Start location:
Immediately right (facing out) of the finish of Roots Manuva (CC Website)is a recessed wall with a groove in its centre. Abseil, or down-climb the groove (VD) to footholds just above a large sea-weedy ledge (mid-tide and below and calm seas!).
Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb back up the groove for 3 metres until above the barnacles. Step right and follow positive holds up the left side of the rib to the top.
Stonados
Length/grade/stars: 12m S
Start location:
Start as for Tinctoris (CC Web site)
Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 5 metres to just short of the main corner. Move up and right to gain and follow this corner to the top.
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