Wintour’s Leap, Lower Wye Valley

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau

Crag: North Wall Area

Step Right

Date of ascent: 15/12/16
Length/grade/stars: 10m HVS 4c
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Katie Long

Start location:

Approach as for Digitus Extractus and Spare Dick.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb Digitus Extractus until under the steepening in the crack. Place gear then follow a thin line of holds right onto Spare Dick after its crux. Finish up Spare Dick.

Additional info:

Route was climbed on sight. Very serious to second as there is no gear on the traverse right and a fall would have you landing on the ledge.

Crag: Wintours Leap,Great Wall

Dave Parker

Date of ascent: 28/01/17
Length/grade/stars: 6m HVS 5a
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau

Start location:

Abseil from the road sign on the bend of the B4228 before Lancaut Lane appears on the left. Abseil approximately 12 metres and swing over to a 1 peg belay on the left.

Pitch descriptions:

Make an earthy Traverse left over the corner and stop on the earthy bank atop bushes under the yellowish wall. Stretch up to clip an extended peg. Move up the wall and make a long move to good holds and step left to the small tree on the arête and an abseil station.

Additional info:

Cleaned in December resulting in a badly scratched eye I returned today. Fixed abseil rope to the peg belay. Secured a lead rope to this and self belayed myself with a gri gri up the route. Broke a foothold on the last move and took a fall onto the peg in the yellow wall. Ended up aiding the route to the tree as I bashed myself in the fall. Backroped to the peg belay and climbed out on the abseil rope. In memory of Dave Parker a Gloucestershire climber.