Paperback Relic

Paperback Relic 40 E6 6b ☆☆
28-May-2019, Tony Stone, Ben Heason

The initial flake of T.Rex collapsed in an extinction event in 2018. Part of its fossil forms a ramp leading to a steep groove and grubby wall beneath a large roof. The newly hatched roof and wall provide little to accommodate a means of access to the surviving corner of T.Rex. Instead, we took a line with a little new climbing that connects the start of Hardback Thesaurus to the remains of T.Rex. Paperback Relic E6 6b ** A good, stiff, ground-up proposition. About 7a+ climbing but with spaced and hard-earned gear. Follow Hardback Thesaurus through its difficult start to a large resting pocket at ~8m. Arrange good gear and traverse left on thin flake pockets and edges to access some deeper pockets above (decent wire). Move up (passing good wires) to reach a large undercut “tooth” forming a thin right-facing groove. Climb up this (and some holds on the face of the “tooth”) to gain a good undercut at the top of the groove. Use this to move leftward and continue, thinly, into the remaining corner of T.Rex. Finish up T.Rex or (for added interest) Metal Guru (50m). Headpointed on FA.

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