Bar Wars

Bar Wars 30 E6 6b ☆☆☆
24-Aug-2018, George Smith, Jurgen Dissmann

The monstrous 40ft roof crack at the back of Natalie Zawn just past Penlas Rock is a bit of a one-off. The difficulties are well protected (some big cams), the rock solid. Mid to low tide and a calm sea state are necessary. Access the feature by abseiling as for Natalie. Scramble to the back of the zawn and belay. Lower 3m to a rocky ridge. Scramble up this to reach a vertical chimney in the back of the zawn. Ascend the easy chimney to its top and arrange protection. ‘Back and foot’ out across the feature until a flared offwidth is reached about half way out. Two points of aid will cross this to gain more conventional jams leading to a recess with a lower-off.

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