Submitted by: Chris Griffiths
Crag: Porthguarnon East, Upper Tier
Date of ascent: 29/12/2016
Climbers: Chris Griffiths, Sara Scaife
Postcards From The Edge
Length/grade/stars: 25m HVS 5a 1 star
Start location:
Start as for Wicked Ways. The route climbs the wall right of Wicked Ways and Byegone Days.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb a slab, aiming for the glossy black groove of Wicked Ways. At the base of this move a metre right and balance upwards to reach a flake that is lay-backed onto the wall. Climb the steep wall, then move gradually right to reach the right arete of the wall, which is followed to the top. Protection is adequate, but sometimes difficult to place.
Additional info:
Given a gentle clean by abseil prior to ascent. (Named in memory of Carrie Fisher and Debbie Reynolds)
Date of ascent: 30/12/2016
Climbers: Sara Scaife, Chris Griffiths
Wake Me Up Before You Go Go
Length/grade/stars: 20m VS 4c 2 stars
Start location:
Start about 10 metres right of Wicked Ways, just left of a black vein. The climb traverses right to left under the very large, very obvious roof, with continually interesting and atmospheric climbing.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb a groove to reach the base of the roof on its right side. Traverse left under the roof until it can be delicately cleared, finishing directly up a short groove.
Additional info:
Climbed on sight. (Named in memory of George Michael)
Date of ascent: 02/01/2017
Climbers: Chris Griffiths, Sara Scaife
Tower Of Song
Length/grade/stars: 27m HVS 5a 2 stars
Start location:
Start at a little slab just left of Wicked Ways. The climb climbs the groove 5 metres left of Wicked Ways and then climbs direct through the overhanging crack that Wicked Ways and Byegone Days avoids.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the little slab, then another, aiming for the shallow groove about 5 metres left of the glossy black groove of Wicked Ways. Climb this to the crack in the overhang (the junction with Wicked Ways, which is followed for a metre), continue up the crack, direct to the top. The crack is well protected, but the groove below less so.
Additional info:
Cleaned by abseil prior to ascent. Porthguarnon East – Upper Tier is an excellent Winter venue, being a sheltered sun-trap, with much less vegetation at its base at this time of year. (Named in memory of Leonard Cohen)
Wake Me Up Before You Go Go – this is already in the new guide as Older But No Wiser (same grade)