Morwenna Slabs, North Devon & Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Morwenna Slabs (p 143)
Date of ascent: 14/01/2018
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Twirler

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Waltzer at a shallow recess below a short groove protected by a bulge.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull through the bulge and climb the short groove to the summit ridge; follow this leftwards to the summit.

Additional info:

The summit gave a superb viewpoint to watch many tons of rock sweep down the lower section of the XS route Breakaway on the immense Henna Cliff opposite!!!

Sheridan’s Slab

Length/grade/stars: 16m VD

Start location:

On the south side of the Carmilla tooth is a fine, easy-angled slab (the descent!). Just left of this on the sidewall a gangway/slab slants up leftwards; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the gangway/slab with interest, especially at the narrows, to finish as for Carmilla. Take care with the protection!

Seaforth

Length/grade/stars: 20m D

Start location:

Fifteen metres right of the le Fanu tooth is the sixth and most seaward tooth. Start at a rock pool below its north face. Mid-tide and below!

Pitch descriptions:

Amble rightwards up the ramp to reach the edge and follow this to the top.