Free thinking, spur of the moment adventures – turn up, be entertained, learn some stuff from a legend, and see where it takes you on the day and beyond!
Johnny Dawes’ essentials of elegant motion
“There are so many rock types, so many different climbers it seems improbable there exists a coaching method that could account for all circumstances. The foundation for such a method would have to be a hard and fast rule and there is just such a rule – the equivalent in climbing of the racing line on a racetrack – an easiest, fastest way…”
[Each hold has a particular direction in which it works best. Place your elbow or knee in line with that direction and more purchase from the hold results and progress is easier]
Commonly climbers do two moves every time they make a move to a new hold; one to get the hold and then one to settle onto it in the direction it works best. Start from a very slightly different position, go straight to the sweet spot on the next hold and you do half the moves!
I split my explanation into the What, How and When to move.
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