Johnny Dawes’ essentials of elegant motion
“There are so many rock types, so many different climbers it seems improbable there exists a coaching method that could account for all circumstances. The foundation for such a method would have to be a hard and fast rule and there is just such a rule – the equivalent in climbing of the racing line on a racetrack – an easiest, fastest way…”
[Each hold has a particular direction in which it works best. Place your elbow or knee in line with that direction and more purchase from the hold results and progress is easier]
Commonly climbers do two moves every time they make a move to a new hold; one to get the hold and then one to settle onto it in the direction it works best. Start from a very slightly different position, go straight to the sweet spot on the next hold and you do half the moves!
I split my explanation into the What, How and When to move.