New Routes – West Cornwall

Michael Dickinson Buttress

Pitch descriptions:
From a large pedestal above high tide climb diagonally leftwards up a series of short easy corners. This one of the two descent routes so is normally down-climbed.

Additional info:
See Topo 0 left

Comment by Pete Greening:
The new PDF submitted by Colin Knowles – I climbed all the routes listed (plus a couple of others) during my lunch breaks back in April/May 2009 when working for a local outdoor centre that use the main crag for their climbing day. All were soloed onsight. Never thought to claim them. The routes may have been climbed before my ascents too. That said, good topo and grades about right.

Pitch descriptions:
From the triangular flat block by the small inlet, climb the groove on the left to an impending wall, which is passed on the right using good holds.

Additional info:
See Topo 1 above

Comment by Pete Greening:
The new PDF submitted by Colin Knowles – I climbed all the routes listed (plus a couple of others) during my lunch breaks back in April/May 2009 when working for a local outdoor centre that use the main crag for their climbing day. All were soloed onsight. Never thought to claim them. The routes may have been climbed before my ascents too. That said, good topo and grades about right.

Pitch descriptions:
From the triangular flat block by the small inlet, climb the groove on the right.

Additional info:
See Topo 2 above

Pitch descriptions:
From the left of a large pedestal above high tide level climb an eroded groove.

Additional info:
See Topo 3 above

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the eroded groove to the left of the dank overhang corner until the slab on the left can be gained. Follow this and the corners above.

Additional info:
See Topo 4 above

Pitch descriptions:
From the left hand base of the buttress climb the short black slab on its left, surmount the slab above onto good holds and climb the airy arête past a small overhang and the continuation corner.

Additional info:
See Topo 5 above

Pitch descriptions:
From the right hand base of the buttress climb up to the crack that splits the slab front face, pass the small overhang on the right and move easily along the ridge above.

Additional info:
See Topo 6 above

Start location:
On a small outcrop I’ve been calling Upper North Buttress. It’s north of and on a similar level to the small face containing the route Pustule. Go down the grassy descent gully a short way; then go left (facing out) over some boulders to reach a small buttress split by two deep cracks. The 3 micro routes here have a common start at a small, grassy area at the foot of the buttress.

Route Name: Ukelele
Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 5b
Pitch descriptions:
Gain a ledge via jammed boulder on the left: then climb the fingers wall to an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Finish easily up a short groove or the pillar just right.

Route Name: Bouzouki
Length/grade/stars: 8m VS 4c
Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall to a ledge; then climb the prominent, vertical, central crack.

Route Name: Banjo
Length/grade/stars: 7m S 4a
Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the wide, slanting crack on the right. Exit leftwards. Good spike belays some distance back.

Start location:
On an area of short walls I’ve been calling Lower North Walls. Use the normal descent to the main climbing areas via a grassy gully. To the north (left, facing out) and down near the sea is a short but prominent arete: this is Cello. The other 5 climbs are hidden around to the right, facing the sea.

Route Name: Cello
Length/grade/stars: 7m D
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the arete on its left hand side to the top, with good holds and protection. Use of the groove just left is optional.

Route Name: Zither
Length/grade/stars: 7m HVS 5b
Pitch descriptions:
Right of the arete of Cello are a steep wall and corner, the top of which are unstable. However, the slim right wall of the corner contains this more solid route: mount the low block and climb the wall, staying out of the corner.

Route Name: Asap
Length/grade/stars: 7m VS 5b
Pitch descriptions:
Right of Zither is a set of 4 small problems above a near-perfect grassy landing. Asap is the leftmost of these: start just right of a blunt arete and climb direct via a small, low undercut.

Route Name: Imho
Length/grade/stars: 7m VS 5a
Pitch descriptions:
Two metres right of Asap is a chunky overlap at 2m; climb the wall directly past this.

Route Name: Moggin
Length/grade/stars: 7m S 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the vertical hand crack at the right end of the face.

Route Name: Meg
Length/grade/stars: 12m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Contrived and escapable, but quite fun. Start on the right side of the right arete and climb to the slanting crack; then climb the crack more easily to a sloping terrace. Move up and climb the rocks above to their highest point.

Start location:
On a sea level outcrop I’ve been calling Tidal Rock. From Cello (Lower North Walls) scramble down to seaward, bearing right (facing out) to locate a 9 metre, south facing wall. The wall rises from a tidal, rock and pebble-filled gully, and sports a large roof at 3-4 metres.

Additional info:
The following short climbs are surprisingly worthwhile. Lowish tide and dry conditions needed.

Route Name: Prince Igor
Length/grade/stars: 9m D
Pitch descriptions:
Start under the roof and climb the slabby edge of the huge block on the left; then transfer to the face and climb to the top on plentiful holds and protection.

Route Name: The Stone Guest
Length/grade/stars: 9m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Start under the right side of the roof. Climb the short, slabby wall on the right to reach the roof. Place gear; then make awkward moves right onto a sloping ledge. Step airily up left onto the upper wall and climb diagonally leftwards to a niche. Finish over a small bulge.

Route Name: The Queen of Spades
Length/grade/stars: 9m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Follow The Stone Guest to the sloping ledge; then climb directly to the top via overlaps and a narrowing, recessed slab.

Route Name: Mavra
Length/grade/stars: 9m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Nicely varied. Start around to the right of the big roof, at a short, reddish wall, undercut at its base. After a tricky start, climb to an easing of the angle and move up to a short, steep crack. Climb the crack; then follow a thinner, left-rising crack in a slab. Finish direct, as for The Queen of Spades.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the black schorl pleasantly to gain Gendarme Ridge.
Descent: either by abseil, or up/down the Ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the dark slab, move left and follow the fine, but poorly protected, wavy rib to a ledge. Make a steep pull to reach the black-marked twin cracks and follow these to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the dark slab and continue up the fault to the ledge. Step right and finish up the corner crack.

Additional info:
With a little light brushing there are further impressive possibilities here. It’s a really handy spot; maybe deserving of its own name, Count House Crag?

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the pointed boulder and climb the right-hand crack to ledges. A pleasant scramble, including a short rib reaches the final wall marked by black schorl. Traverse leftwards across the wall for 4 metres and pull up more directly, before following a horizontal edge to join the main Ridge.
Descent: either continue up the ridge, or descend leftwards and re-trace your steps up the grass.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up into the recess, traverse left out of it and pull up into a right-trending crack. Follow this and finish up the short ramp on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-hand V-groove awkwardly to gain a ledge. Finish up the steep crack and arete above and right.

Additional info:
This area is well worth a look ; it is fascinating how the ramps and grooves cut through the sections of very steep rock. Obviously it is not in the same league as Gallipoli Wall, but is more convenient of access, being only 30 metres or so below the Commando Plaque. It also receives early morning sunshine–handy whilst waiting for Bosigran Main Cliff to dry out!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the red rock, pull through the overlap then trend right betwixt heather and ivy to gain a diagonal break below another overlap. Step up left onto the upper slab and follow this to easier ground. The stance of Alison Rib is above and right. Neat climbing with spaced protection!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab, keeping just left of the edge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the V-groove, step left at the hollow block and finish up the short awkward wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the ramp, passing the right end of the sloping ledge and make a forceful entry into the cleft. Continue up to the Ridge. The broken ramp 1 metre right is Mizzen (13m D Clarke 12.8.15); which doubles up as a down-climb, with care!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack, then step left to finish up the slabby rib. The squeezed slab immediately right gives Overlooked (7m D Clarke 14/08/15).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the black vein steeply, using small holds around the rib on the right for the final moves.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up the slab for 3 metres, then hand traverse right along the break around the nose to reach a recess. Move up and traverse leftwards across the black wall to reach the prow and finish up this. Exciting for the grade; good luck with the direct finish!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Bridge up, then climb the red slab direct. Starting 1 metre right, the grey section of slab gives Havrom Collider (8m S 4b Clarke 15.8.15). Whilst opposite Noizarama, a scoop leads to a hidden flake crack; Hide and Seek (8m S 4b Clarke 15.8.15).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb past the undercut and move up left to a spike. Pull up the steep wall above, moving slightly rightwards, and continue up the cracks above to easier ground and the Ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb Force 7 for 4 metres, then by using high flake holds traverse the sloping ledge leftwards into a corner. Move up the corner, then make an interesting entry into the main groove on the right. Follow this to its end, step left and saunter up the slab to the Ridge. Good climbing, like something from the East Buttress of Scafell!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb rightwards on shelving holds up the fine grey wall to gain a broad ledge. Move up a short yellow corner, step left and follow a ramp up rightwards to broken ground. Continue up for 6 metres to a ledge and good belays. Descent: Scramble off left and down to regain the approach ledges (care required!).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse rightwards across the wall, descending slightly to a foothold below and left of a prominent prow. Climb directly upwards, pass a small roof to its left and continue to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Welsh Wizard for 2 metres, then traverse out leftwards on the big holds and ledges to gain the ridge; up this to finish. Sensational and straightforward!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step into the wide break, move right and follow the black wall up and rightwards; trying to guess the best pockets.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull up to a ledge and continue up the wall between the two slanting grooves.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramps into the cleft and tussle up the left-hand corner to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the slanting crack, mainly by its left rib to a ledge at its top. Pull rightwards around the arete onto the impressive wall. Follow the crack above and right to a ramp, move right along this for 3 metres and pull over onto the finishing slabs. A tremendous climb at the grade!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the scallopy ramp to ledges below the upper slab (optional belay!). Step left from the large block and trend up and rightwards across the slab to below the short headwall. Climb the left side of the headwall to grass and scramble up for 10 metres to reach good block belays.

Pitch descriptions:
Start the rib from the right and follow its right side all the way to a final flourish over the capping bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up leftwards for 5 metres, descend for a metre down the smoother slab on the left and move up to a band of overhangs. Avoid these on the right, then move up, pulling through a final bulge via the short crack to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across the gap, move up the central crack for a metre, then strike leftwards along the delightful flake to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the vein to the top, via a footledge at 3 metres. An interesting low-level excursion tiptoes leftwards along the Jeweller’s Rouge footledge to gain the central crack; then finger traverses the poor lower break before stepping off: Stridability (10m 4c Clarke 27.9.15).

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse leftwards (looking in) at this level passing walls, slabs and inlets until an impasse at a bulging section is reached after 50 metres. Avoid this by moving up a ramp and swinging around into a recess. Descend, and begin the fine final section of traversing until a last gasp stride gains easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right (looking in) to gain the first feature, a left-facing corner and climb it.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse out left to the attractive rib and follow it to the top. The slabby wall 1 metre right of the rib gives a couple of interesting moves Pressurized Water (10m S1 F4 Clarke 28.9.15)

Additional info:
Simply fantastic; every soloists’ dream, a juggy rib rising from the blue sea! DWS enthusiasts may wish to down-climb the rib (D).

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the rib of The Fair Melusine and traverse leftwards across the steep wall on the left to reach and follow the short right-facing groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the diagonal crack rightwards to the ridge. Move up and step leftwards onto the prominent ledge (The Pulpit!). Finish up the sharp ridge above.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the diagonal crack rightwards to the ridge. Traverse the slabs rightwards, descending slightly; before following a black cleft diagonally leftwards and finishing up the grooves above and left.

Additional info:
Probably the best time to visit this area for the routes so far is around mid tide; there’s lots of potential!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner via holds on its right and step left to the edge of the black wall. Follow the vein up the edge to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Use the flakes to overcome the initial steepening, move up and follow the main, left-trending crack in the wall to the top. Using the same start, the right-trending crack and short corner are Howl (10m VD Clarke 29.9.15).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the straightforward central crack, pull through the bulge and continue up the slab to the belay blocks.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the V-groove by the barnacled scoop on the right and follow it to the bulge; where a few brisk moves leftwards gain the top.

Additional info:
Repeated already (Pete Robertson): grade reduced to HS!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the scoop and move up to a rib which defines the left edge of a fine, leaning wall. Climb the rib via the crack on its left-hand side.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the scoop and follow the thin crack/seam up the right side of the rib above, with a move right at the mid-height bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the vein with gusto.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the scoop and pull up rightwards onto a red ledge. Move up to the start of the slanting flake crack and climb the wall on its left for 2 metres; before traversing right to gain the slanting crack itself. Follow it to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain a slightly undercut slab and move up to overhangs. A few strenuous pulls up these (weak rock in places) lead to a tricky top out. Scramble to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall just left of the blunt rib and right of the wide crack. Trending right near the top. Fine climbing, but unprotected in its upper half!

Additional info:
The name means ” a glimpse of The Divine!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the groove with interest and continue to the top via a step left at the steepening.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the crack, which features an interesting layback at the bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slab to the right-hand end of the roof. Make a steep pull up and left and follow grooves and cracks to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the greasy corner on the left for 2 metres then step right into a niche. Move up as for the Crack; then follow a groove straight up to a bulge. Avoid this on the right via a short corner and continue up easier ground to finish with a flourish up the red vein in the rib on the right.
Additional info:

Venting Steam

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Je Suis Charlie (CC Website!) at the right edge of the square flake.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the flake crack and continue up the steep, broken scoop-line to the top.

Additional info:

Fat Moss repeated…grade confirmed by the left-hand exit. The wiggle through the gap looks impossible save for East European mini gymnasts!!!

Gale Force

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Je Suis Charlie below the centre of the square flake.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the face of the square flake. Pull into and climb the thin crack above.

Pitch descriptions:
A nice climb taking a right to left diagonal up the main face. Good rock, gear and holds throughout.

Climb up and slightly left on good holds for about 10m, until standing on and hanging from two small slightly sloping ledges. Move into the corner below the roofs on Black Sapper. Step left onto the slight arête. Go diagonally left for about 6 metres (feet level with the light-coloured vein) to a break and good cams. Go up and slightly left to the next break. Make a move left and up to a standing position in a light-coloured recess (where a block may have fallen out at some time.) From here, final tricky moves lead to the top.

Variation E4/5 5c/6a
A more committing start. Start in the chasm of Porthmeor Chimney. Bridge out rightwards from the floor of the chasm until a committing pull out on to the wall can be made. A few more run-out moves lead to a short wide crack in the lip of the cave and a hands free knee bar rest and gear. Make a couple of strenuous moves right to a “thank god” foothold, which allows moves up to below a roof and another rest.. Using a good slot, move up through the granite vein to a good break, step right and join the original route at the “break with good cams”.

Additional info:
FA solo after abseil inspection.

This was written up in the Count House log, just as the new (2016) guide was being finalised. Time and space constraints meant it only received a passing mention in the guide, so a full description is given here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant wall just left via the scoops and hidden flakes to the slanting fault. Gain the projecting ledge above and pull over the steep wall to finis

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the first golden ledge and take the crack above (the second from the left!) to a ledge. Sidle up the wide cleft on the left to finish

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slanting corner with a few tricky moves.

Additional info:
Lovers Groove and Lovers Wall repeated, grades confirmed! Lovers Wall has a fine finish and deserves 1 star! I believe The Amazing Thing takes the right arête of Wee Jammer buttress and so is located left of Polo and Stoc!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step left onto the yellow-coloured buttress via the rounded flakes (tricky) and continue to a col. Finish precariously up the rounded flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the fault line to an impasse below a block. Follow a ramp up rightwards via the black schorl hold to the col on Saffron; finish precariously as for that climb up the rounded flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the slabby wall on great holds.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb direct via an undercut start. Just right, and taking in the shallow corner is another pleasant route; Redcoating (10m Diff Clarke 9.12.15).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb rightwards and follow the right edge of the slabby wall, to a tricky finish up the steep little wall just left of the prow. Graded for its easily avoidable finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make tricky moves to gain better holds and finish up the ridge. Moving up left from the start of Flapjack and following the obvious crack gives Skewjack (11m S 4a Clarke 9.12.15).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the red plaque feature. To maintain interest, step right and follow the shallow crack up the slightly crunchy wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the rake from the right, move leftwards along the ledges and reach the base of the main gravelly chute. Step right and follow the flakes to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Move down right slightly, and follow the flake holds up rightwards, before following the black slabby groove and its continuation to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the head-height ledge and pull through the bulge above on glorious flutes; before finishing up the slab on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney and its wider continuation to a ledge. Finish up the rounded arête on the left as for Neanderthal. On the opposite side of the chimney the short rib gives Egg Spurt (9m S 4a Clarke 13.12.15).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-hand crackline and finish up the crack in the backwall to superb belays.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-hand crackline via a steep move at the start and a step right just below the top.

Additional info:
Beligerent Butterflys (CC website) repeated, grade confirmed!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack and the left edge of the slab above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb out leftwards from the upper of two short corners and follow the unhelpful cracks in the centre of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the corner to the huge ledge; and finish quickly up the flake on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Stride across the dyke and follow the crack to a ledge atop a small pinnacle on the right. Finish up the converging cracks. Six metres right, the right edge of the triangular wall is the rather crunchy Peleas (9m VD Clarke 13.12.15).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner crack, more pleasant than it appears, provided you keep out of the crack!

Additional info:
The name means black crack in Cornish!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the slab to the finishing terrace. Using the same start, but following the broken line on the right gives Amendya (10m VD Clarke 14.12.15).

Additional info:
The names mean ‘red slab’ and ‘on the right’ respectively (Cornish).

Pitch descriptions:
Use the chicken-heads to gain the break, step left and pull into the shallow groove, before taking the broken crack slightly leftwards to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up rightwards, then left up a red gangway, before finishing up the V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up to the break and finish up the shallow groove above. Just right, two short walls lead to a pleasant juggy slab Chuckily (9m D Clarke 16.12.15).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall on the right to a spiky hollow. Use a small flake above to move left into the chimney of Race Against Tide. Reach up left for a flake jug and swing out left onto a prominent foothold. Finish up the slabs.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the brittle wall and scoop above.

Pitch descriptions:
Move out right onto the smooth wall and hand traverse the obvious thin crack rightwards to the rib. Finish up the short runnel.

Additional info:
The Banana repeated, grade confirmed; but this is mentioned as a possible extension to D.Tour!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the line of red flakes diagonally rightwards across the wall to the gangway. Finish up the shallow corner above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the white holds to the gangway. Continue up the vague line above via the small, but obvious rounded chicken-head near the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Finger traverse the thin crack rightwards at half-height crossing Toblerone to finish on the far edge.

Additional info:
Toblerone (CC website) repeated, grade confirmed!

Pitch descriptions:
From the lower section of the sloping floor of the recess climb a small corner containing flake cracks, and just right of the main corner, Rubble Trouble, to a ledge. Finish up the fine, but all too short headwall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant flake crack at the left side of the convex slab.

Additional info:
The name means ‘scythe’ (Cornish).

Pitch descriptions:
Move right and follow the chicken-heads up the slab.

Additional info:
The name means bushy-browed (Cornish)!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the parallel set of white chicken-heads horizontally rightwards across the slab and step down into the upper zawn (usually dry, belay advised!). Traverse right across the opposite wall and pull up into a cozy niche, before finishing up the knobbles and flakes. Bizarre, and graded for the unprotected start!

Additional info:
The name means rainbow, from the mini rainbows formed by the spray in the zawn (Cornish)!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-trending ramp to a large ledge below the block overhang. Step right and take the slanting chimney/flake to an awkward finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the slab using the juggy breaks and move left to gain and climb a slanting corner to a ledge. Follow the short corner on the right and finish up the rounded slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb rightwards up the slab and continue up twin cracks to a small overlap. Move right into the main crack and follow this past a steepening to the top.

Additional info:
An efficient approach to this area at high tide is by down-climbinng (Mod) or abseiling the gully just right (facing out) of the long slabby pinnacle; but not in rough seas! On the sketch of Porthguarnon East in the main 2000 guidebook the seaward slab containing Neptune etc. is actually located in the same place as the words ‘access to seaward slab’!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull across to gain a left-trending gangway and follow this to a ledge. Climb over the bulge above and continue just left of the rib to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the flake crack up rightwards (trying not to use the descent ramp!) to a ledge. Step up, then gain the curving groove awkwardly from the right, and follow it to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the scoop and the left edge of the bulge above; before following the flakes up the headwall. Spike and nut belays above and left. The right side of the extreme left-hand arete of the red pinnacle 8 metres LEFT of Tiered gives Yule Lunacy (7m HVS 4c Clarke 24.12.15).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the fluted crack to the ledge and the left-trending flake above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin flake and open groove to the ledge. Make a tricky move up onto the upper wall and follow improving flakes rightwards into a niche. Finish up the flakes above, one of which is loose!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack past a bulge to the ledge. Move right onto a small pinnacle and follow the fine crack above.

Additional info:
The name means beautiful (Cornish)!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right-slanting rib for 6 metres, swing left and finish up the grooves. To the right, the discontinuous cracks up the right side of the recess give The Standard Route (14m VD Clarke 3.2.16).

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb these features to a good ledge and finish up the slab on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Descend for 1 metre and make a tricky descending traverse to gain the obvious trough-like fault on the right. Follow the trough rightwards and where it fades continue to oscillate rightwards across the slabby wall, making best use of the various cracks. A move around a blunt rib gains a straightforward groove leading leftwards to the top. Avoid rough seas!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crack to the break, step right for 1 metre and climb the runnels in the slab to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Bridge up, and use a hidden flake to gain a left-facing corner and follow this to the break. Finish up the rounded crack above and right.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Teeter, with some delicacy, up the left side of the lower rib to a ledge. Move up and leftwards onto the upper rib and follow it to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb just left of the right edge of the slab to gain a pair of diagonal cracks. Move up, then follow the right-trending holds to gain a break and protection opportunities. Keep left of the thin crack and grasp the poor edge of the finishing ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Hand traverse rightwards below the impending wall to gain the slabby corner. Up this, moving right at the steep little headwall to finish up flakes.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the steep wall right-to-left to ledges and finish up the knobbly holds above.

Additional info:
The name is Old English for ‘tidying up’!

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across the gap and continue rightwards along the ledges to finish up a ramp.

Additional info:
Named to commemorate the slow cruising of the Penlee Lifeboat in and out of the coves, searching for the poor RSPCA Inspector swept away by storm Imogen!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Bridge up, moving outwards slightly to grasp holds on the chockstone. Pull over and finish up the crack on the right.

Additional info:
The name means ‘from beneath’ (Cornish).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull up to the break. Move up and leftwards to a small ledge on the rib. Step left and follow a slight ramp leftwards to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack and continue up the corner. Utilizing the same crack to the ledge, the delicious rib on the left is over far too soon Golden Syrup (9m D Clarke 11.2.16).

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse the faultlines which cut the block leftwards, without touching the top. Keen boulderers will probably require a raft!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the wide crack above the tiny pool. Then take a left-to-right line up the slender buttress just right of the shallow chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb Limpet Crimper for 4 metres, then step left and follow a short corner to the ledge. Finish up the elegant pillar between the upper cracks of Wrestling Barnacles and limpet Crimper.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain and follow the thin bottomless crack to the top.

Additional info:
The true start up the lower wall looks desperate, good luck!
Limpet Crimper repeated, grade confirmed!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb a line of sloping holds on the right side of the smooth slab to an overlap. Step left (protection opportunities!), and pull over the overlap. Move up rightwards to better holds and continue direct to finish up the flakes of Boulez.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain and climb a shallow groove to the overlap. Pull over via the slight groove and finish up the flake corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby wall and continue up the right-hand of two bottomless cracks. Finish up the cracks left of the chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the awkward wide crack and the cracks above.

Additional info:
Roll of the Dice repeated, thought to be Diff! Twist of the Card + Flip of a Coin (all supplement) repeated, grades confirmed! A nice little wall, could be accessed at high tide (calm seas) by abseiling from the summit of the Island!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left-hand side of the slab and pull through the overlap to gain the finishing terrace. The right side of the slab and red groove through the overlap gives Reel Time (10m S Clarke 10.2.16).

Pitch descriptions:
Pull onto the slabby wall and continue leftwards along the fine cracks, until a steeper move gains the summit.

Additional info:
The name means pleasure (Cornish!).

Pitch descriptions:
Pull across and up, step left and follow the slabby wall to the top.

Discovery Channel

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

One hundred metres left (west) of the descent for Carn Guthensbras a vertical wall rises from a sea channel formed by an island (Carn Guthensbras West?). Gain he ledges at the far western end of the wall by descending easy rocks. Incidentally, the Memorial Crag containing the route Tweelie Anderson (CC Website!) is just 25 metres to the left (facing in). The first routes are reached by an abseil down the front of the buttress seen in profile, when looking back into the channel from the ledges. They start from a comfortable high tide ledge below a recessed wall. The main feature is an attractive narrow buttress above and left, the top half of which provides the profile mentioned above.
Start at the centre of the ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up left and follow the narrow buttress, mainly using its left edge.

Magellan

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start as for Discovery Channel.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the twin cracks in the steep wall to a small ledge. Continue up the wide groove formed by the wide crack and shallow corner to better holds and the top.

Vespucci

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

Start immediately right of Magellan.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride across the crunchy chimney and climb up and rightwards to gain a slab on the rib. Up this, and the left-hand of the cracks in the headwall.

Amerigo Groove

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start as for Magellan.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Descend for a metre and traverse right for 3 metres, past a wide crack, to gain an attractive groove. Climb the groove and crack to a ledge; and finish up the wide crack above.

Additional info:

To the right are more impressive walls, but with very little in the way of starting ledges!

Crag: South Coast Carn Guthensbras Main Crag (p 96)

Fortinbras

Length/grade/stars: 18m HS

Start location:

Start 8 metres LEFT of Livinbras on a sloping ledge below two thin cracks in a short steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull through the steep wall and continue up a slab to a good ledge below the upper golden tower. Follow delectable thin cracks just left of the nose of the tower and finish direct.

Silly Buoy

Date of ascent: 23/2/2016
Length/grade/stars: 32m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for Blockhead.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow Blockhead for 2 metres, then make a dainty hand traverse left for 3 metres; before following a series of cracks to a ledge. The tricky short wall above is climbed by use of two thin cracks immediately left of Blockhead (just left of the author on the back of the Supplement, blinkers required!). Above, pull leftwards around the block to easier ground.

Additional info:

The chasm approach is quite serious, and now there are only two chockstones remaining wedged above.

Rolling Bell

Date of ascent: 23/02/2016
Length/grade/stars: 18m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 8 metres right of Tweelie Anderson at a black slab in the left wall of a small zawn.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the black slab, then skirt the large roof by moving right and teetering up crunchy rock for a move; before stepping left above the roof. Continue diagonally leftwards to the rib and finish pleasantly up this.

Bearded Fuzz

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres above and left of Samarkand, the slabbier left flank of the golden buttress contains a bottomless crack, widening towards the top; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the crack awkwardly and follow it to the top, using a variety of long-forgotten techniques!

Date of ascent: 24/02/2016

Dark Polka

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

The south east ridge of the Point (in the direction of Hella Point) has three pinnacles, each presenting a stern face into Polostoc Zawn. The second, middle pinnacle is easily identified by a huge rockfall scar in its lower section. Scramble down the ridge to reach the col between the second and third pinnacle. The third pinnacle comprises an obvious black slab. Scramble down the break below the col (in the direction of Polostoc Zawn) for a few metres to belay on a small ledge above a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Move right onto a polished ledge at the very top of the rockfall scar and from its right end pull up a steep wall; before climbing a slab to gain the summit of the second pinnacle. A good little adventure when combined with the approach!

Chukkaway

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Approach as for Dark Polka. From a belay in the col between the second and third pinnacles abseil down the break and the steep wall below to a high tide ledge (calm seas!); start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Step right onto the rockfall scar and follow a delicate little ramp up leftwards. Move up the break and finish up the thin crack in the black slab on the left to the top of the third pinnacle.

Additional info:

Pete’s Party Piece repeated, Diff up to the tricky move on the arête, which felt scary and 4b if you are short, like me!

Date of ascent: 25/02/2016

Nympholept

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

Four metres LEFT of Misguided Pixies is a small square buttress, start below its left side.

Pitch descriptions:

Move up left onto a ledge, pull up the steep wall and gain a ledge. Step right and finish up the left edge of the buttress.

Puckoon

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Nympholept below a thin crack immediately left of a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the thin crack to a ledge within the cleft. Step left onto the front of the buttress and finish up its right edge.

Flag Planter’s Fantasy

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

The block island 35 metres seaward of Winter Flakes can be accessed at low tide and calm seas. Start at the left edge of the seaward face.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make an exposed step left into a short hanging groove in the arête and gain the large ledge. Climb the knobbly rib, step right along a shelf and gain the summit.
Descent: either by abseil or down-climbing the east face (towards Hella Point) at Mod!

Bernard’s Books

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres below and right of The Pit, at a wrinkled wall above a large ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left edge of the wrinkled wall to a ledge below a red wall of fresh, crunchy rock. Continue up a left-trending thin crack in the red wall and finish up the edge. The central line up the wrinkled wall and the right-trending line up the red wall give Beam Me Up (17m VD Clarke 25.2.16).

Aireflow

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres below and left of Night Flight near the base of a ramp below a rounded slab and just above the main sea level ledges.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rounded slab via the flakes to a ledge. Continue up the bulging narrow buttress directly above on amazing holds. Thread belay, a descent down the ramp on the right (facing in) leads to the main area.

Yellow Fever

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Airport.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Step off a sloping rock and climb the short steep wall to gain the ledge above the scoop of Airport. Move rightwards up flakes, then left to a disappointingly blunt spike; before escaping left to a finish up the cracks of Airport.

Blackfeet

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and right of The Long Voyage Home.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make two awkward mantelshelves up the right wall of the narrow zawn. Continue up the slanting chimney for 2 metres, before gaining the rib on the right with relief!

Genghis

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres right of Blackfeet on a higher level at the right edge of a black bulging buttress. A black and white vein cuts rightwards across a golden wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow the vein briskly from left-to-right and finish up the nose.

Reuben’s Slabs

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Fifty metres right of Genghis is a dark buttress with two slabs offset by a roof; start below the lower slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the lower slab rightwards, step left and finish up the crack in the upper slab.

Exclamation Mark

Date of ascent: 06/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 13m E9 6c ***
Climbers: Alexis Perry

Start location:

At the foot of the Question Mark arête

Pitch descriptions:

Direct start to Question Mark. Climb the arête all the way (as opposed to traversing in to meet it).

Additional info:

Protected by skyhook, which was placed on lead. Inflatable dolphin not used (ask Ken). Although the lower arête isn’t that hard (about V4/5ish) or long, the route is harder than Question Mark as you’re more pumped when you get to the dangerous bit near the top. More satisfying than Question Mark – the lower section has great moves and you get to climb the whole of the arête (which is the point of the exercise).

Arrow Corner

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

The routes are located on the topmost buttress of the bounding ridge on the north side of the zawn and above the normal approach. The buttress is almost level with the end of the ancient stone wall, and a mere 15 metres below the level of the moor. The routes start from an elevated ledge below the buttress, complete with its own arrowhead-shaped block.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left edge of a short steep wall and continue up the corner above. The broken wall just right leads to an ungainly finish at a wide crack; Broken Arrow (12m S Clarke 4.3.16).

Arrowhead Ridge

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Arrow Corner at a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the crack and sharp rib above. the final impending 2 metres were avoided by a wriggle through the cleft just right.

Additional info:

The left-to-right diagonal quartz vein cutting across this buttress is part of pitch 6 of The Long and Winding Road (CC Website; the ridge climb from sea level!).

Date of ascent: 06/03/2016

Marxism

Length/grade/stars: 18m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres below and right of Chico (CC Website!), in a red dyke.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a short flake rightwards and continue up the steps in the right edge of the wall; before finishing up cracks just left of the upper edge.

Namphara

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Twenty metres below Arrow Corner is a smaller, but steeper buttress with a gashed triangular block forming its summit. This buttress includes pitch 4 of The Long and Winding Road (CC Website!). Start just right of the bulging wall split by smooth cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack in the dark rock to a ledge. Gain the top of the triangular block from the rear. The slanting flake crack just right is Zeldaem (12m D Clarke 6.3.16).

Perked Up

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start between Pinky and Perky (suppl. p 66!), at a blunt nose.

Pitch descriptions:

Pull past the nose and continue up to finish via a shallow crack.

Prequel

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start 7 metres left of Black Breaks the Thorn (CC Website!), at the seaward arête, low tide and calm sea!

Pitch descriptions:

Climb rightwards up the excellent flake crack to the top.

Tiny Tiers

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Left (north) of the descent gully to the start of Right Angle, a shelving series of huge slabs leads to a fine wall after 170 metres, divided into two tiers by a sloping terrace. The climbs so far are on the lower tier. Start just above high tide level at a right-trending set of holds.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the large, but smooth holds rightwards to the terrace.
Descent: by abseil.

Launch Off

Length/grade/stars: 14m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Tiny Tiers at a thin crack in a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the thin crack to a good ledge. Follow the right-slanting holds for 4 metres and finish direct.

Sunset Strip

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Four metres right of Launch Off, a series of ledges lead to a short corner.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the ledges to the corner, move up and leftwards across the wall to gain and climb a flared flake crack.

Rondo Burlesque

Date of ascent: 12/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 24m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Zero at an attractive left-slanting flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 8m Climb the flake crack and belay below the corner on the right.
2. 7m 4b Layback the crack just left of the nose to the right of the corner and follow better holds to a ledge below the chimney of The Greek’s Knees.
3. 9m 4b Climb up to the overlap on the right (as for Placebo Dream, suppl.), then hand traverse rightwards along the wide break. Move up slightly and swing around the rib to a belay in the gully, and scramble out. Three diverse, but interesting pitches linked!

Branchline

Date of ascent: 2/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Cleavage.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the groove of Cleavage for 6 metres, then take the thin crack branching rightwards, on good holds and protection, to a recess. Step right and use the fangs to gain the top.

Taken in Vein

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start at the right end of the large ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Church Window etc.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain a projecting ledge out on the right by an interesting move. Continue up the red and black vein to a steep finish.

Aeolian

Length/grade/stars: 27m HVS

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Hayloft Gully on a large ramp beneath two flakes on the steep wall 8 metres above.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 17m 5a Climb short walls to a ledge below the flakes. Launch up the larger right-hand flake to delicate and poorly-protected moves to reach the break. Move left slightly and continue up the slab and easier ground to a belay beneath the upper slab
2. 10m 4c Climb the rib of the slab for 4 metres and finish direct up the narrow runnel.

Epicurean

Length/grade/stars: 9m VS

Start location:

Start at the top of pitch 1 of Aeolian, below a thin hairline crack leading up the red, bald slab on the upper slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the delectable crack. Clean and sparkling, must have been done many times, if it has it’s already a classic!

Top o’ the Morning

Date of ascent: 13/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 2 metres LEFT of Knight Move.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the pleasant shallow groove in the face of a slabby pillar, and continue to a ledge on the left below the upper slab. Make a delicate step up and continue just left of the edge to the top.

The Ribbon

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Thirty metres around and right of Reuben’s Slabs on the opposite side of the buttress is a brown, easy-angled rib just right of a huge square block; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the rib daintily, when the wide cracks are reached the difficulties diminish.

Brittles

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Fifty metres to the right (seaward) of The Ribbon is a large buttress whose summit formation resembles a double crashing wave. Start at the right-hand side of its dark north-facing wall in a tidal trench at a slabby corner.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a thin crack in the slab just right of the corner to a rake. Finish up the steep corner above. For added excitement, pull over the wave formation!

Mar Might

Length/grade/stars: 15m VD

Start location:

One hundred and forty metres east of the shady wall containing Lunar Eclipse etc and across the true Halldrine Cove are a series of block walls and slabs separated by a trough into a landward wall and pretend island (O S Ref 417 372). The first 3 routes however are on an attractive domed slab 40 metres to the left (facing in). Start on a flat ledge with three drilled holes below the centre of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a short corner and an intermittent crack up the blunt rib on the left.

Marmaduke

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Mar Might.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the black seam up leftwards and finish up the ramp.

Marmalade

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Marmaduke.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the black crack leftwards and move right onto a ledge. Climb the short black corner, overlap and bubbly slab to the top.

Baby Fish Rib

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

On the left-hand side (facing in) of the landward wall a blunt rib rises from a beautiful rock pool in the trough. Access to the landward wall is by abseil or various down-climbs. Start at the bottom of a groove to the left (facing in) of the blunt rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Step right and pull onto the rib (splashdown available here!), and continue up the rib to the top.

Vaseline

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Baby Fish Rib below a V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain and climb the V-groove, interesting!

No Pain, No Gain

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Vaseline at the right-hand end of the landward wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride across and gain a standing position on a shelf. Follow the crack leftwards and finish up the upper crack. The dark slab immediately left looks benign, but is bold, Frieze (6m VS 4c Clarke 15.3.16).

Cloaking Device

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres seaward of the buttress containing Blockhead etc, the final pinnacle of the Promontory has a narrow gritty chute on its landward side, with a dark slabby wall rising from it to the summit of the pinnacle. Access is either by reversing the descent from the top of Blockhead or at low tide and calm seas, crossing the chasm and traversing around the north side of the Promontory. Abseil down into the gritty chute and belay 4 metres above the rounded block.

Pitch descriptions:

Step up left onto a ledge, then follow the holds diagonally rightwards up the dark slabby wall to a rounded break. Move right and climb a shallow pocketed runnel to the summit.

Outlandish

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Approach as for Cloaking Device, but abseil a further 4 metres to gain a ledge on the far side of the chute.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the right side of the arête of the pinnacle to a ledge. step right and follow a crack to another ledge; before swarming up the final impending rib to gain the summit.

Cherry Topping

Length/grade/stars: 12m HS

Start location:

Opposite the dark slabby wall the seaward face of the buttress containing Blockhead etc is broken, but does provide one worthwhile climb. Start towards the right side of the face at a shallow right-slanting corner, just left of three small red veins.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the shallow corner, step left and pull up to gain a ledge. Finish up the shallow flakes above.

Wheal Reath

Length/grade/stars: 18m VD

Start location:

Start as for Samphire Wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the broken ridge above, which forms the right edge of a square-cut chimney, utilizing the chimney for the final 2 metres.

Rub a Dub Dub

Length/grade/stars: 9m VD

Start location:

Below the start of Samphire Wall and to the right (facing in) of the slimy corner crack are three cracks in a steep wall. Approach by scrambling around the seaward end of the steep wall (mid tide and below, and calm seas!). Start below the left-hand crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left-hand crack to the top.

Haematite

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Near the base of East Gully are a series of red slabs on the left (facing out). Start below a right-angled corner where the grass gives out on the left (facing out) side of the gully.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the corner and finish up the steep ramp leftwards.

Clot Factor

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Haematite.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step right into the slab, move up and pull over a slight nose; before continuing upwards to finish up a short corner on the right.

Sanguine

Length/grade/stars: 17/03/2016

Start location:

Approach as for Clot Factor, but continue to scramble down for 10 metres to where the rock changes colour from red to green, about 8 metres above the sea.

Pitch descriptions:

Step right onto a rib and follow it to a ledge at 7 metres. Move left, then follow the slabs slightly rightwards, until vegetation encroaches. Traverse right and finish up a rib.

Blood Sucker

Length/grade/stars: 21m S

Start location:

Start 9 metres above and right of Sanguine below a corner at the left side of a prominent smooth red slab. The slab has been traversed at half-height, but not climbed!

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the corner up rightwards to near the top of the smooth slab. Step up slightly left, then traverse right to finish up a grass-backed corner.

Thirst

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Nine metres LEFT of Land’s End Long Climb, past several short pillars, the rocks heighten at a recess. Start at the left side of the recess, just right of a wide crack formed by a small pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rib and slab and make a tricky finishing move up the headwall. The slab just right and steep corner above give Equals (10m D Clarke 13.3.16).

Full Stop

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Thirst.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb a blunt rib and step left into an overhung niche. Make an awkward move out left and follow the crack/ramp to the top.

Lass-T

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Full Stop.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb fresh rock for 3 metres and gain a projecting ledge on the left. Gain, and finish awkwardly up the open corner.

Darwarnya

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres around and up right of Capillary Cracks below a gritty chimney.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rib on the right of the chimney, and step left onto a sloping ledge below the prominent groove. Up the groove to a large ledge; from where an exciting traverse right and pull up gain the top.

Clamity

Length/grade/stars: 14m HVS

Start location:

Forty metres right of the red slabs containing Sanguine etc, a series of buttresses rise above a channel formed by an island. Access is by the headland just south of the red slabs. Scramble down towards the island and gain a large recess containing huge rock steps and overlooked by a golden tower. To reach sea level, either slither down a chimney on the left (facing out), or abseil to ledges 3 metres above high tide level. To the left (facing out), down-climb a corner for 2 metres (VD) and traverse right (now facing in) for 3 metres (calm seas!) to below a steep corner to the right of a rectangular roof. Finally continue right for 2 metres to belay below another corner, with an impending section at half-height.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the rib on the right of the corner and step right into a slabby groove. Follow the right side of this groove to a ledge and finish up the broken wall above.

Nugget

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Six metres right of Clamity is a recess above high tide ledges, best gained by abseil. Start below the left-hand corner of the recess.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left-hand corner to a ledge on the left. Move up and step right into the finishing groove. The right-hand corner of the recess is more interesting; Nougat (13m VS 4b Clarke 18.3.16), and is climbed via the ledge on the right.

Silverado

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Twelve metres right of Nugget a silvery slab rises above a short steep wall (clearly seen from the cliff-top!). Start below a flake crack leading to a slanting block allowing access to the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the flake crack, step left and gain the top of the block by exquisite moves. Finish up the thin cracks in the slab; superb!

Mufti

Length/grade/stars: 25m HS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Civvy Route.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the problem arête to a ledge. Move up and rightwards across Walter’s Chimney to climb a black slab forming its right wall. Continue up the short slab on Letterbox to gain its belay ledge. Re-cross the Chimney and finish up the narrow inset buttress.

Little Red Van

Length/grade/stars: 23m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Letterbox.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a black rib at the entrance to Griptight Gully to a ledge. Follow the slotted wall on the left and move leftwards; before continuing up the ridge to gain the Letterbox belay ledge. From the right end of the ledge follow massive holds up and rightwards to finish awkwardly up a short neb.

No Oil Painting

Length/grade/stars: 26m S

Start location:

Start on a small rounded boulder 6 metres in from the right edge of the South Face, and below the massive boulder which spans the access ridge above.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the red wall up rightwards, continue up a black flake crack to broken ground. Up this to a finish up a slabby corner.

Breugel

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres below and right of the massive boulder spanning the ridge (facing in) at an attractive crack in the grey, seaward wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the surprisingly awkward crack and the slab above just left of its edge.

Dalghenn

Date of ascent: 21/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Only the Lonely (CC Website!) at a hairline crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the hairline crack and the shallow groove above to a ramp. Finish leftwards up the red walls.

Additional info:

Only the Lonely (CC Website) repeated; thought to be VS 4b!
Book of Dreams and Alone Again (supplement) are highly likely to be the same route!
Dalghenn means grasp (Cornish)!

Silver Creek

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Silverado at a steep red vein which bounds the silvery slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the vein steeply for 5 metres, then scramble to the top.

Silver Smile

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start from the good ledge above the steep section of Silver Creek, gained from above.

Pitch descriptions:

Step left onto the slab and follow the holds across it, above the impending wall.

Zagzigga

Length/grade/stars: 18m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres right of the Silverado Slab the cliff turns into Porth Loe Cove, becomes higher and gains a golden hue; access here is by abseil only. The cliff rises from large ledges above most tides, but is affected by rough seas! At the left of this portion of cliff the main features are two diverging black overhanging corners. Start 3 metres right of these corners at a stepped rake rising leftwards.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the rake for 6 metres then take the diagonal cracks rightwards for a similar distance until the wall above relents. Pull over to easier ground and continue to the top.

Additional info:

In view of the large potential here and the cliff’s increasing independence, a new name may be required; Porth Loe Buttress South?

Pebble Rebel

Length/grade/stars: 12m VS

Start location:

A mere 10 metres walk landwards from the top of the landward crag (Vaseline etc), gains the top of a black wall above a boulder filled cove. A notable landmark is a rounded pebble boulder below the left side of the wall, start behind this boulder (all tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the thin crack rightwards to an overlap. Use high handholds on the left to gain a large ledge. Walk off or climb the flake on the right.

Pebble Mill

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Pebble Rebel at twin thin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the twin cracks and finish up the right-slanting crack.

Pebble Grist

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Pebble Mill at a higher level.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the faint crack just right of a shallow recess and finish up the two left-hand cracks above.

Three Pebble

Length/grade/stars: 15m VD

Start location:

A further 8 metres landward a fine rib rises in three tiers.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the delectable rib. No belay, so scramble up the grass to block belays 15 metres above. Five metres right a short, rounded rib may prove irresistible; Pueblo (6m S Clarke 22.3.16).

Not So Swell

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres left of Wiggy Wiggy at a slabby rib defining the left edge of a black wall. Just above where the large ledge begins to sweep down seawards, care required in swell conditions!

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slabby rib and the straightforward slab above.

Impermanence

Length/grade/stars:

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Wiggy Wiggy at a short wall and right of a large black slot.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the short wall into a shallow recess. Pull over the bulge, step left and follow the right side of the slab. Climb a steeper wall rightwards and finish awkwardly up a short black corner in the final roof.

Wiggle On

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Impermanence at the short black groove just left of Easy Wigging.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain the groove by an interesting move, and follow the ramp up leftwards, finishing as for Easy Wigging.

On-Off Switch

Date of ascent: 24/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 15 metres above and right of Immaculate Groove, near the top of the broad ramp.

Pitch descriptions:

Walk left into an alcove with a sloping triangular floor, continue up a steep little corner to a ledge on the left. Move up the next steep corner and gain a niche and bridge up this to the top.

Additional info:

Four Directions, Direct Start repeated, grade confirmed!
The Black Bowl and Side Show repeated, both thought to be VD!

Bossy Gran

Date of ascent: 25/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 18m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Crazy Man Michael.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb two successive slabs rightwards to an alcove below a steep wall. Overcome this by using the ribs on the right and foot traverse left. Move up left and gain a foothold on the upper rib and follow this in a splendid position to the top.

Planet of the Apes

Length/grade/stars: 20m S

Start location:

Start as for Guacamole Jeff.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the cracks of Guacamole Jeff to the break, hand traverse right to the thin crack of Monkey’s Lunch. Move up for 2 metres, then foot traverse the blunt flakes rightwards to finish up Hurdy Gurdy Arête.

Kabol

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Dy’ Lun.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the front of the pillar, then follow the undercut flake rightwards to finish up a thin crack.

Additional info:

The name means mixed up (Cornish)!

Clandestine

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres right of the Memorial Plaque and above and behind the wall of Station X is a tower with two cracklines; start below the right-hand crackline which trends slightly rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the crackline with interest, and at the top shelving overhang step down right slightly and gain the ridge by a brisk layback up a short corner.

Sunshine Coach

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 14 metres above and right of Variety Club at a black and white left-trending ramp, just below a parallel, narrow black vein.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up the ramp leftwards to the edge. Step right and follow a shallow groove and rib above to broken ground near the Ridge.

Bossy Boots

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Twelve metres left of Racy Stacy a short wall juts out at a right angle, covered in its lower section by black schorl. Start at a thin crack just right of the left edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the thin crack and the edge above to a large ledge. Gain the higher ledges via the keyhole crack on the right.

Sprayed Back

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start just right of Bossy Boots at the main crack in the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the crack, tricky in places.

Strendel

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Virtual Insanity.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the flake holds steeply rightwards into a dark niche. Finish leftwards up the crack in the slab above.

Porcelain

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Sixty metres to the south of the Main Cliff is an impressive zawn (Zawn Buzz); 50 metres further south on the opposite side of a grassy spur is a small zawn. Tucked away, sunny and sheltered (suggested name, Troika Zawn?). Its location is adjacent to the word ‘step’ on the map on page 202. Approach as for Boulder Two-Step (p 214) but continue down the grassy spur, until easy-angled slabs lead down rightwards (facing out) into the zawn (most tides!). Once familiar, a quicker way is to follow the main path down the valley to its mouth, the zawn lies 70 metres to the right (facing out). The zawn consists of two walls, a brown, slabby south-facing wall and an impending west-facing wall on the right. Start near the left edge of the brown slabby wall on the gently-sloping top of the boulder at the entrance to the zawn.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Traverse left from the boulder to the rib and follow it to a small ledge below a narrow slab. Climb this by its left edge.

Feaince

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start just right of Porcelain at a crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the crack for 2 metres then traverse left to gain the ledge of Porcelain below the narrow slab. Climb this by its right edge.

Troika

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Start as for Feaince.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack to a niche. Step right and finish up the flake crack above and left.

The Binnacle

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Follow the normal descent, until a pinnacle-like buttress divides the gully into two branches, East Gully and South Gully. The seaward edge of this buttress forms a prominent ridge. Start at the base of this ridge adjacent to a smooth red wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the steep ridge to gain a ledge on the right at 7 metres. Step left and follow the ridge direct to the top.

Spurrey Fringe

Length/grade/stars: 23m VD

Start location:

Eight metres above the finish of Haematite etc a tower-like buttress rises above a sloping grass terrace. Approach by descending grass slopes to the left (facing out) of the buttress. Belays advised at the foot of the routes. Start towards the left side of the buttress below a long groove with a yellow overhanging wall on its left.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove to the final tower which is taken by its left wall. The slanting groove 3 metres right merges with and eventually finishes up the parent route; Stone Crop (22m VD Clarke 4.4.16).

Fuzzy Face

Length/grade/stars: 22m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres above and right of Spurrey Fringe at a diverging groove with a black back wall leading to a roof.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Bridge the groove for 3 metres then traverse left to the ridge. Follow this on its left side to the final tower. Take this direct via a testing finish up a loose wide crack.

Glazed

Length/grade/stars: 8m VD

Start location:

Fifteen metres left of the top of Porcelain (Troika Zawn) a short wall rises above a broad sloping ramp. Start 12 metres down the ramp in the centre of the wall at a red rock scar (most tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb through the rock scar and continue up the corner.

Cobalt Groove

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of Glazed at a right-angled corner, just right of a grey holdless wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the corner with interest via a small bulge near the top.

Cathay Café

Length/grade/stars: 17m HS

Start location:

Start 8 metres below and left (facing in) of Porcelain at a shallow groove just right of a red wall (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the awkward shallow groove to the bulge, foot traverse left and gain a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack on the right and finish up the arête.

Smoothie

Length/grade/stars: 9m F4+ S0

Start location:

At the level of the sloping ledge on Cathay Café a low promontory juts out seawards. Fifteen metres along the promontory the smooth wall down and left gives an interesting traverse.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse leftwards across the smooth wall, until a harder section just above the undercut leads to better holds at the far edge.

Scatter

Length/grade/stars: 14m D

Start location:

Fifty metres right (facing in) of Saskia the right-hand face of the seaward pinnacle is broken, but towards its left side is an attractive slab flanked by a flake crack to its left and a dark corner to its right. Start at a col below the slab, well above the sea and 2 metres right of a newly-fallen block.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a shallow corner and follow the flake crack leftwards to the top. Just right, the slab itself is pleasant; Salt Diamonds (12m VD Clarke 11.4.16), keep left of the final bulge.

Ab-Dabs

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start as for Scatter.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the dark corner to the right of the slab, step right at the bulge and pull over the final roof with trepidation!

Florestan

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Eighteen metres above and right of Creature Discomforts (supplement) is a sunnier grey wall with a slabby rib on its left and dark straight crack in its centre. Start below the slabby rib (most tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the slabby rib with a few interesting moves at half-height! To the right, the dark straight crack proves that perseverance pays off; Eusebius (9m S 4a Clarke 11.4.16).

Galavant

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start as for Vessacks Original.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Vessacks Original to the constriction in the slab. Just right, two sets of cracks cut through a bulging wall. Climb the right-hand set of cracks to easier ground. Step left and finish up the fine crack in the brown slab.

Knee Spin

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres above and right of Viagra (supplement).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Make an awkward pull into the shallow groove in the nose of the block and continue up on enormous holds.

Droopy Slab

Length/grade/stars: 20m VS

Start location:

Start as for Viagra (supplement, most tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the dark landward slab, opposite Viagra. As the colour of the rock lightens, the holds improve and lead to easier ground and the top.

Date of ascent: 12/04/2016

Zombie Nation

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Seventy metres right of Creature Discomforts (suppl. p 76), the west face of the Point is graced by two impressive, but broken tower-like buttresses well above the sea. Start 20 metres LEFT of the left-hand buttress at a three-tiered wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a ramp up leftwards, then follow the vein above in two stages.

Kinemortphobia

Length/grade/stars: 19m VD

Start location:

Start 20 metres right of Zombie Nation on a cubic block below the left-hand tower-like buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the broken, but pleasant lower section of the buttress; and finish up the right edge of the upper, steeper section, making best use of the available rock fangs.

Sticky Wicket

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS

Start location:

Eight metres left of Vessacks Original a deep chimney separates a square buttress from the main mass. A further 7 metres around and left gains the short attractive seaward face of the square buttress. Start below thin cracks towards the left side of the seaward face.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the thin cracks to a niche. Traverse right and finish steeply up the edge of the face.

Mouse’s Ear

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 7 metres around and right of Sticky Wicket at the deep chimney.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Boulder out the steep wall immediately left of the chimney to a ledge. Bridge up for two moves and gain a sloping ledge on the right of the chimney. Continue up the slabby corner and finish nicely by the ear above and right.

Dariel

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres below and right of Knee Spin on a wrinkled boulder (lowish tide and calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up into a slot, follow the handrail leftwards and pull up onto a gangway. Finish up the flake cracks in the rib on the left. Contrived, but excellent climbing!

Additional info:

Dariel is the ancient name for this particular area!

Perks of the Trade

Length/grade/stars: 20m S

Start location:

Start as for Perky (supplement).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Move right for 3 metres and climb a red shallow groove, with a white-splashed left wall. Move right at the small bulge and gain a ledge. Finish up the steep rib above and slightly left.

Gnasherville

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start as for Perks of the Trade (all tides, but calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:

From the foot of the red shallow groove, descend slightly and continue up and rightwards into the back of the zawn to gain a small ledge above the red rock. Move up, then finish up the white vein just right. Mainly straightforward climbing in a dramatic setting! For purists, 12 metres above the finish of Gnasherville, the white vein divides. Follow the right branch which cuts through terraced walls; Cream Cake (10m VD Clarke 17.4.16).

Fortune Cookie

Date of ascent: 18/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 9m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Below the broad sea-stained slab leading down to Marconi Slab is a steep wall above a tidal channel. Its main feature is a rounded scoop above a bulging barnacle wall. Start below and left of the scoop.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a short slab, then finger traverse rightwards to reach flakes giving access to the scoop; up this to the top. At high tide the traverse can be gained from above!

Four to One

Length/grade/stars: 33m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres LEFT of Free Rein at a splayed-out groove with a black slab forming its left side.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove and the left side of the black slab. Continue up a thin flake in the short golden wall on the left and finish up the white chicken-heads in the right flank of Ridge Direct.

They’re Off

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start as for Four to One.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the cracked wall on the right-hand side of the slabby, right bounding rib of the groove of Four to One to a ledge at 6 metres. Continue up the rib and trend leftwards up the slabs to the top.

Dog Eat Dog

Date of ascent: 23/04/16
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Penwith Pets Beware (Shady Wall, supplement p79).

Pitch descriptions:

Follow Penwith Pets Beware for 2 metres, the traverse right for 2 metres, before climbing a crack to a ledge. The shallow groove above leads to the finishing terrace. On the east side of this terrace, a wave-smoothed, easy-angled slab slants down to an open zawn fringed by an impending unclimbed wall. The corner to the right divides the slab from the impending wall and gives; Shady Trees (18m D Clarke 23.4.16). Swerving leftwards to finish up the slabby corner.

Painted Ladies

Length/grade/stars: 18m S

Start location:

Facing westwards from the buttress containing Harrison’s Crack etc, and 80 metres away across a cove are two rounded buttresses. The left-hand one has a prominent white groove, whilst the right-hand rounded buttress contains shallow cracks in an impending wall, all unclimbed! The first routes are on the left-hand (facing in) buttress. Access is by its far right (facing out) side, due to there being a low tide channel and steep wall prohibiting direct sea-level access. Walk over the top of the right-hand buttress, descend a short gully (the top section of Aquaphobe!), and continue over the left-hand buttress to discover a straightforward dark groove leading to high tide ledges adjacent to a small beautiful inlet. The fine main face is now to the right (facing in). Its obvious feature is a large pedestal towards its left side. Start below the groove defining the right side of the pedestal.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the groove and continue up to finish up the flake crack just left of the chimney.

Additional info:

The name comes from the tattooed naked ladies ensconced on the nearby nudist beach!!!

Blue Boyou

Length/grade/stars: 17m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Painted Ladies.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wall and continue up the shallow groove in the centre of the wall. Finish up the rib above.

Aquaphobe

Length/grade/stars:

Start location:

Start 15 metres right of Blue Bayou on a square ledge in the tidal channel below the damp corner separating the two buttresses. Best gained by scrambling below the right-hand buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Veer rightwards away from the corner and climb the centre of the slab via delicate moves between small holds. Continue up the flakes and finish up a gully.

Elgeth

Length/grade/stars: 8m VD

Start location:

Start on the opposite side (west) of the buttress containing Harrison’s Crack etc; from a good ledge at high tide level in a recess. Gained by abseil or down-climbing (Mod).

Pitch descriptions:

Step up right onto a higher ledge where the buttress changes direction. Make a steep start up the black rib and follow it to the top.

Additional info:

The name means chin in Cornish!

Eseliek

Length/grade/stars: 18m VS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Elgeth below a dark grove on the front of the buttress, the right-hand of two.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the groove, and from a standing position on the obvious ledge at 5 metres make a tenuous step right onto a large ledge. Move up right and follow the flakes and runnels on the left to finish.

Additional info:

The name means long-limbed in Cornish!

Fethus

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Eseliek across lower ledges (low tide and calm seas!), at a black bulging crack cutting through the edge of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the crack to a ledge and finish up the flake on the right.

Date of ascent: 26/04/2016

Flamingo

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Twenty-five metres right (facing in) of Elgeth and across an 8 metre wide channel seldom clear of water, is a tall columnar cliff. Access is by descending grass slopes to the right (facing out) of the cliff, followed by scrambling down and across ledges leftwards (facing out) to gain a large flat platform at high tide level. To reach the routes climbed so far, either abseil down the short chimney, or down-climb (VD) the seaward edge of the platform (low tide). The main features are a wide boulder-filled cleft in the centre of the cliff, with a golden rib to its left (facing in). Start below and right of this rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Surmount a block at the base of the cleft and climb a crack on the left for 3 metres, before following the good holds leftwards to a ledge on the rib. Continue up the rib and finish up the flake cracks to gain the finishing terrace. A walk leftwards (facing in) regains the descent.

Flicka Ridge

Length/grade/stars: 22m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres above and right of Flamingo across the cleft on a good ledge above high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Descend slightly and foot traverse right for 2 metres to reach a ridge. Climb a shallow groove just left of the ridge to a ledge and continue up cracks and flakes to gain a miniature summit. Scramble out (rope advised!), or abseil back down; or various ledges and grooves can be down-climbed (D).

Burnished

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start as for Flicka Ridge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Flicka Ridge to the ridge, step right onto the sidewall of the channel and traverse right for 2 metres to below a niche. Gain the niche and pull out leftwards to follow a fine short flake crack and the crack above to a ledge. Keep right and continue to the miniature summit.

Black Spot

Length/grade/stars: 20m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Red (supplement, p 79), at a small bulge marked by a circular black patch.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Pull through the bulge and continue up the narrow black vein to better holds at the break. A difficult move up the shallow groove leads to easier ground and the top.

Bargos

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Black Spot at a thin crack in a black wall just left of a break in the cliff which provides a useful down-climb (Mod).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the widening crack and the straightforward fault to the top.

Additional info:

The name means buzzard in Cornish! Regarding the location of existing routes:-
The term ‘stepped face’ is misleading; these are large ledges leading down seawards below the main face. At the left side of the main face is a short chimney gully formed between these ledges and the main face. It is here, I believe, the route Pig and Chips starts. Red (supplement, p 79) starts 15 metres lower down where the base rocks begin to level out. It is recognizable as an organ pipe in a very smooth wall. Grey (supplement), is actually to its left and converges higher up; and may share ground with All Fools Flake Out!

Date of ascent: 28/04/2016

Shades of Grey

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Pig and Chips and just right of the short chimney gully at a wide grey sheet, a major feature of the left side of the cliff.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the left edge of the grey sheet, trend right and squeeze past a cube-shaped block. Continue up a red wall to easier ground and the top.

Kiss Curl Rock

Length/grade/stars: 18m HS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Shades of Grey.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride rightwards off the edge of the ledge onto the only foothold. Pull quickly up the narrow grey vein to better holds, and continue rightwards up the straightforward vein, in a fine position, to finish up short fluted cracks just left of the far neb.

Flying Carpet

Date of ascent: 18/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start immediately left of Permanendo.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the face of a triangular section of white rock. Step left onto the dark slab and follow it, keeping between the gritty corners, to finish up the mercifully short crumbly upper corner.

Additional info:

Marconi Slab itself seems largely unaffected by the rockfall.

Rank and File

Date of ascent: 20/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 18m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke, M Freeman, R Grimshaw

Start location:

Start as for Staircase.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left-trending ramp, groove and crack in the left bounding rib of Staircase. Finish up the V-groove of No Name. Barely independent, but neat, elegant climbing!

Additional info:

A team of old-timers, combined ages at least 200!

Left Leg Shuffle

Date of ascent: 30/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start on a ledge at the top of the groove of Groucho (supplement), to the left of a cleft slanting rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the cleft and stride across the top of the open groove of Afternoon Grooves (supplement). Shuffle right, and at the spikes, swing sensationally out; before descending a ramp for 2 metres. Finish up the right wall of the corner above and right.

Camouflage

Length/grade/stars: 15m HVS

Start location:

Start as for Chyflake (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow the ramp to the big ledge. gain and follow the right-trending black vein across the wall just above Chyflake, utilizing footholds in the chimney where the vein thins. Continue up the vein to a tricky finish.

Breakthrough

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start 10 metres below and right of Chyflake (CC Website) at a shallow rounded groove leading to a break in the short impending wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the rounded groove and pull up the wall via the break. Gain a corner niche above with difficulty, step left and finish up cracks and slabs.

Classico

Length/grade/stars: 7m HS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Ash Arête (CC Website) below two slanting cracks in the right flank of the beaked rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the superb left-hand slanting crack, via classy moves.

Lucy in the Sky

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start as for Leuk Before You Leap (suppl. p 97).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the edge just right on its left side. At its balding top, step right and finish up a short slabby groove.

With Diamonds

Length/grade/stars: 8m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Luke No Hands (suppl. p 97), and just left of a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Gain the small ledge in the middle of the wall and finish up the tiny flake in the headwall.

Rather Gruesome

Date of ascent: 04/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Facing out and looking into the gruesome zawn immediately left of the West Buttress, a prominent left-trending crack on the zawn’s right (west) wall, leads to a flake with a small bulge just above. Gain a ledge about 15 metres above the base of the zawn at the foot of this crack, by scrambling down a gully (abseil recommended!).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left-trending crack and gain the top of the flake. Step right at the bulge and reach the top via the miniature pinnacles.

Litmus

Date of ascent: 05/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 11m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Alkaline Test.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wall between Alkaline Test and The Chimney to a ledge on the rib, finish up the rib.

Additional info:

Even Spiders Need Homes is the left-hand chimney gully, not the central one!
The Chimney repeated, thought Diff! The Curving Crack repeated, grade confirmed!

Paper Tiger

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start 6 metres below and left of Easy Touch at a rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the rounded bulges, the first direct, the second on the right to ledges. Continue up cracks in the rib to a small bulge. Step right and climb a short chimney to shelving rock and the top.

Sheep Amongst Wolves

Length/grade/stars: 21m D

Start location:

Start at the foot of the scramble descent to The Northern Platform Area.

Pitch descriptions:

Move rightwards along greasy ledges for 5 metres, then climb a short corner to a ledge. Follow the black wall on the right and finish up the crack.

Teardrop 1

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Immediately below Peel Crack is a short tier above a rock pool with two cracklines. Start below the left-hand crackline.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the lower cracks and pull over the slight bulge to gain the upper crack. The right-hand upper crack is gained by a traverse from the right above the rock pool and is just as entertaining; Teardrop 2 (7m HS 4c Clarke 6.5.16).

Upper Crust

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start 12 metres LEFT of Fluffing Up The Midge (CC Website), below a right-slanting slabby pillar (the left-hand of two!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the slabby pillar, at first rightwards, then keeping left to finish up crunchy rock. Block belay on terrace to the right.

Woon Gumpus

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Fluffing Up The Midge at left-trending twin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the right-hand crack, continue up the black vein on the right, to an obvious finish up a short corner.

Anderley

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and right of Woon Gumpus at a blunt boulder.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slab up rightwards and step right into a niche with a triangular roof. Pass the roof on its right side, move up and continue diagonally up the right-trending cracks to the top.

Additional info:

Fluffing Up The Midge repeated, grade confirmed!

Escapement

Length/grade/stars: 19m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres below and right of Immaculate Groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Move up right for a metre or so and follow the short left-trending crack in the steep black wall for 2 metres. Escape left and amble up the slab to the top.

Tapestry

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

From the foot of the VD down-climb to the Sea-Level Cliff, scramble down to a barnacle ledge at low tide level. Move right (facing in) for 5 metres below a fine wall to reach a right-slanting crack; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the right-slanting crack to a ledge. Step left and move up a short wall to gain flakes at a break. Finish up the thin black seam above and left.

Niwlenn

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS

Start location:

Approach as for Tapestry, but continue rightwards for another 6 metres, around an awkward rib to gain a small ledge below a barnacle corner (low tide and calm seas!); there is a dark roof 8 metres above.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the barnacle corner and gritty crack above to ledge below the dark roof. Follow the groove right of the roof to a niche, step up left to a small ledge and use flakes to gain a large ledge. Keeping right of the recess, climb the entertaining steep wall and left-trending ramp to the top.

Additional info:

The name means fog bank in Cornish!

Date of ascent: 30/05/2016
Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Miss Goodnight

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start at the remains of The Immaculate Runner, 6 metres around and to the left of the left-hand start to Launch.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the smooth wall to the left of the arête to a break. Pull rightwards over a bulge and continue up a right-trending scoop to a finish up cracks in a short steep wall.

Pansy

Length/grade/stars: 20m D

Start location:

Start 5 metres LEFT of Painted Ladies at a cracked wall below a rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the cracked wall and continue up the rib via a crack on the right to a finish up the corner to its left. A fine direct version is Sweet William (19m S Seymour 28.5.16).

Climbers: BJ Clarke, A Dovey

Shark’s Fin

Length/grade/stars: 18m HVS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Blue Bayou below a crack just right of the edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the crack steeply to a small roof. Step left onto the slabby wall and continue up rightwards to gain and follow a crack to good holds. Pull over a bulge to easier ground and the top.

Additional info:

The lower half had in-situ gear from an earlier attempt!

Climbers: BJ Clarke, P Watson, A Dovey, R Seymour

The Hoary Head

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Shark’s Fin at the end of a sloping ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move around and right to gain a right-angled corner, up this to the top.

Steamboat Willie

Date of ascent: 30/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m E1
Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Start location:

Start as for Pink Moon.

Pitch descriptions:

5b Follow Pink Moon to the large footholds below its upper crack. Traverse right (low gear!) to the break of River Man. Continue diagonally rightwards up the red and white vein to the top.

Redolent

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Flamingo below a clean-cut corner on the left side of the rib (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the fine clean-cut corner to a ledge (optional belay if the sea threatens!). Continue up the groove and step right into an unusual flake chimney, which leads awkwardly to easier ground and the finishing terrace.

Shangri-La

Length/grade/stars: 30m HS

Start location:

Start as for Burnished.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Burnished around rightwards onto the sidewall and to below its niche. Continue rightwards to a chimney. Descend slightly, cross the chimney and step up to good holds which lead to a ledge on the right. From the right end of the ledge pull up to easier ground and the miniature summit.

Date of ascent: 11/06/2016

Crows Awry

Length/grade/stars: 17m VS

Start location:

Start as for The Hoary Head.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow The Hoary Head around and right to below the right-angled corner. Step up the arête on the right and traverse right to reach the large flakes on the sidewall. Follow these upwards to a sloping ledge below the headwall. Move right and climb the steep, dark cracks to finish.

Two Left Feet

Length/grade/stars: 17m S

Start location:

At the back of the first channel (mentioned in the approach to the mysterious Tower of Babylon) is a tall rectangular buttress with large rockfall scars to its right. Start below the centre of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up leftwards and follow the left edge to ledges at the summit. Descent: scramble up for 8 metres, then descend broken rocks 15 metres to he right (facing in).

Kalypso

Length/grade/stars:

Start location:

Twelve metres left of Two Left Feet is a short, steep south west facing wall above a trench, with twin cracks in its centre and a blunt rib capped by a black slab on its right. Start below the blunt rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the blunt rib and black slab with interest.

Additional info:

A further 20 metres left (facing in) is another channel which contains a dark tower, could this be the Tower of Babylon?

Hispaniola

Length/grade/stars: 8m S1 F5

Start location:

On the far (landward) side of the greasy channel dividing the cliff; descend a cleft and slab to barnacle level (Mod!). Just right (facing in) an attractive slabby groove slants up a blunt rib; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the slabby groove for 4 metres to a holdless bulge. Pull delicately around rightwards onto the slabby wall and gain the top.

Tortuga

Length/grade/stars: 11m S1 F4

Start location:

Start as for Hispaniola.

Pitch descriptions:

From the base of the slabby groove, step around rightwards onto the slabby wall at the level of small undercuts. Descend to a small ledge (mid tide and below and calm seas!); before moving up rightwards for 3 metres to gain a brown wall, up this on good holds to the top. From the foot of the brown wall, the right-slanting flake is very pleasant; Plunder (14m S1 F4 Clarke 14.5.16).

Crossbones

Length/grade/stars: 30m S1 F5

Start location:

Approach as for Tortuga to the brown wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Continue the rightwards traverse along a convenient seam for the feet to reach an alcove with a black right wall. Pull up onto a higher ledge on the right and continue to where the traverse-line ends at a smooth groove. Move up onto the grey rock on the right via a thin flake, step up and traverse right for 3 metres until a short dark wall with good holds enables the top to be gained.

Bootleg

Length/grade/stars: 10m VS

Start location:

From the foot of Bossy Boots (CC Website) walk down the shelving ledge on the left for 15 metres (mid tide and below and calm seas!), to below a left-trending black vein.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the black vein, the lower half is fingery and unprotected!

Scallops

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Descend a glacis below Poor House to barnacle level in a channel.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the face above and right, finishing leftwards.

Lobster Rock

Length/grade/stars: 8m Mod

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of Raw Prawn, above the right end of the rock pool at a left-trending ramp.

Pitch descriptions:

The ramp and flake above gives a pleasant little outing!

Ride Clear of Diablo

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of The Devil’s Been Busy.

Pitch descriptions:

Take a slightly left-to-right line up the brown wall and meander up the steeper rock above.

Additional info:

Spindle and Bobbin repeated, both thought to be VD!

Iron Pyrites

Date of ascent: 16/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 45m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Double Take.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 21m 4a Follow the leftward traverse of Double Take for 6 metres; before taking the buttress above via the thin cracks just right of its edge. Belay below the corner on the left which forms p2 of Double Take.
2. 24m 4b Climb the wall left of the corner passing a small triangular niche to exit up the edge. Move around to the right and climb the short brown wall to broken ground and the top.

Primary Scare Trust

Date of ascent: 17/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

The broad grassy gully used on the approach to Rip Tide Wall opens out at its base to form a zawn; with a high impending wall forming its right (facing out) side. Access (most tides) is by down-climbing (D) the disjointed slabby ribs, gained from the broken ledges. An abseil may be preferable!
Below the high impending wall at its seaward end is a pinnacle, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Scramble to the summit of the pinnacle. Take a deep breath and stride across onto the main wall and move up to a niche just above. Traverse left for 3 metres to easier-angled rock and amble up grooves to gain the broken ledges.

Additional info:

For the Rip Tide Wall approach in the new book the phrase ‘follow a very broad grassy gully down left to some broken ledges’ should be grassy gully down right (facing out) to some broken ledges!

Slopersgrope

Date of ascent: 20/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 4 metres left of Um at a right-sloping ramp.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the ramp and short corner to the bulge. Avoid this by moving left to a finish up a slabby rib.

Additional info:

Um repeated, grade confirmed!

Grampus

Date of ascent: 22/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 13m D
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for Ordinary Route. A ramp slants up leftwards below the steep wall with diagonal cracklines; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the left edge of the ramp to its top, step left and climb the wall on pockets. Just left a slabby wall with a central crack juts out at right-angles. The slotted wall immediately left of the crack is a delight; Les Adieux (7m D Clarke 22.5.16). The left edge of the wall via the shallow yellow scoop is blanker, but equally delightful; Serenata (8m VD Clarke 22.5.16).

Lang Lum Reek

Length/grade/stars: 20m S

Start location:

Three metres LEFT of Cheddar is a kinked, white-stained groove. A further 6 metres left is an open groove just right of a flat wall with diagonal cracks. Start below the open groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the groove and move left into a niche at 6 metres. Step right and follow the right-hand version of the groove to a ledge. Finish up the golden slab on the left.

Vino Bianco

Length/grade/stars: 22m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Lang Lum Reek below the kinked, white-stained groove, gained via ledges to its left.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the kinked groove and finish up the twin cracks in the shallow chimney above. Scramble out, first right, then leftwards!

Bling Crack

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Start as for Diamond Flake.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride across and climb the central crack, which becomes progressively trickier.

Phantom Suns

Length/grade/stars: 10m HVS

Start location:

Thirty metres right (facing out) of the oblong block at the top of Bling Crack is an attractive slabby wall forming the right side of a small zawn. The lower half of the wall is dark greenstone, whilst the upper half is granite. Belay in a short corner on a large ledge system at the right end of the slabby wall, well above sea level.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Step left onto the dark rock and move up into a shallow corner in the granite. Make tenuous moves around leftwards to gain a fine spike in the middle of the slabby wall. Stand on the spike and teeter for the top.

Jutland 100

Date of ascent:
Length/grade/stars: 14m S2 F5+
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for One Big Echo, but continue down the cliff edge to within 6 metres of the end of the rock. Descend an open groove on the right (facing out) to reach a rounded ledge at barnacle level.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb leftwards (facing in) across a pocketed wall, descend slightly and pull leftwards into a niche below a left-slanting crack. Follow this crack for 5 metres, then pull out rightwards to easier rock and the starting platform of One Big Echo.

Middle Aged Spread

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start as for Mouse’s Ear.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow Mouse’s Ear up the bouldery wall to the ledge. Continue bridging up the chimney until a flake high on the left rib can be gained. Use this to swing up and left, in a fine position to gain the finishing slab.

Making Your Mind Up

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and left of Viagra (suppl. p 77) on a small ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the holds up diagonally leftwards to the rib and take this on its right side to the top.

Additional info:

Viagra repeated, quite stiff, but thought to be S 4b!

Late Fading Stars

Date of ascent: 25/06/16
Length/grade/stars: 12m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for Clamity (CC Website!) to the large recess and golden tower. Continue down the right-hand (facing out) side of the large rock steps from the recess for a short way to gain a ledge below a dark, oblong-shaped roof.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Stride leftwards from the ledge onto good footholds, step immediately left again to reach a fine, hidden corner and climb this to a ledge. Continue up the dappled wall to finish left of the pointed block.

Klondyke

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

The promontory containing Twinkletoes etc has on its left (facing out) side a golden slab, riven by left-to-right rising diagonal cracks above a shallow gully. Start at high tide level on a small ledge near the base of the shallow gully; gained by devious scrambles or abseil.

Pitch descriptions:

Step left above a small niche and follow the wide diagonal cracks to a ledge. Pull up a steeper wall and finish up the V-groove to reach the crest of the promontory. Starting at the same place, the lower set of diagonal cracks leading to a prominent landward notch gives; Gold Rush (25m VD Clarke 6.6.16).

Kirsch

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres above and right of Klondyke where the shallow gully flattens out at a large ledge, and below a short hairline crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the hairline crack and its continuation; before finishing up the short groove on the left. Two metres right, the line of thin cracks proves interesting and sustained; Grub Steak (10m S 4a Clarke 6.6.16).

Additional info:

The approach to this area from the steep slopes above is intimidating and requires care. At low tide and calm seas a boulder hop from the north (Cape Cornwall) side may be preferable!

Carousel

Length/grade/stars: 18m S1 F5

Start location:

Twenty metres right (facing out) of the top of Gnome Garden a promontory runs out to the offshore square-topped pinnacle. Follow the promontory towards the pinnacle until stepped ledges on the left (facing out) lead down to the top of a short slabby ramp. Descend the ramp for a couple of metres, before stepping right (facing out) onto a ledge below a small prow, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse left (facing in) across a crack and continue along sloping footholds, descending slightly and moving along the barnacled footholds to better handholds. Move up and gain the ridge, and finish up the short corner.

Gnomenreigen

Length/grade/stars: 25m S

Start location:

Start as for Gnome Garden.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 14m Climb leftwards to reach the rib forming the left edge of the wall. Up this, mainly on its right side to the massive ledge.
2. 11m 4a Pull up a short steep wall and continue up the left-slanting crack in the left side of the wall taken by p2 of Gnome Garden.

Additional info:

Gnome Garden repeated, grade confirmed!

A Cheap Thrill

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Fifteen metres right (facing out) of the starting niche of Right Angle a down-climb (VD) or abseil down a low relief buttress gains barnacle level. Traverse right (facing in) for 17 metres to gain the left-hand of two left-trending grooves; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Gain the left-hand groove with difficulty and climb it to a bulge. Pull up rightwards to reach and follow a continuation groove to the top.

The Jitters

Length/grade/stars: 16m S1 F4

Start location:

Start 8 metres right of A Cheap Thrill across an awkward inlet (S) at a black rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the rib, then trend rightwards up the brown slab, then leftwards to finish at the starting niche of Right Angle.

Sayonara

Length/grade/stars: 24m S1 F4

Start location:

Start as for The Jitters.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse right around the black rib for 2 metres. Then follow the thin right-trending crack to the top of the brown slab. Reverse Right Angle for 5 metres to gain its starting niche.

Stone Drizzle

Length/grade/stars: 20m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Lang Lum Reek (CC Website!), at a line of thin cracks in the left side of a smooth streaked wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the thin cracks to a shallow porthole on the left at 7 metres. Step right and move up to a ledge, from where a blocky wall leads to the top.

Climbers: R Seymour, BJ Clarke

Cornish Cruncher

Length/grade/stars: 22m HVS

Start location:

Immediately right of Cheddar the fine golden wall is split by two cracks, start below the left-hand crack.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the left-hand crack, with strenuous moves through the notch in the overhang. Continue up easier ground to the top.

Additional info:

The name is of a particularly ferocious local cheese!

Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Gorgonzola

Length/grade/stars: 22m VS

Start location:

Start as for Cornish Cruncher.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the right-hand crack to easier ground and the top.

Snuffing Out the Candles

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Two hundred metres north (right, facing out) of the promontory containing The Fair Melusine etc is a headland graced by a steep dark wall, flanked on its right by slabs and overhangs. As the tip of the headland is approached keep right (facing out) above easy-angled slabs to a terrace below a broken upper tier of rock. A short scramble down leads to the apex of the sloping ledge below the cliff. Scramble down the sloping ledge rightwards (facing in), below the steep dark wall to barnacle level at a glass-smooth corner. Move around right for a further 5 metres to below an easy-angled groove, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the right side of the easy-angled groove. Step left and pull through the overhang via the short yellow groove to a gentle amble up the slabs.

Weathercock

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Start 6 metres around and right of Snuffing Out the Candles at a wide bay.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the left side of the bay for 5 metres, make a bold step left onto a slab and move up to a break and welcome gear. Pull onto the upper slab and finish up this.

Rolled Silver

Length/grade/stars: 9m S1 F2

Start location:

The next zawn north of the zawn containing The Fair Melusine etc has a fine, steep back wall with a slabby south-facing wall to its left. Scramble along the promontory above the slabby wall to within 15 metres of its end. Down to the left (facing out) two small but comfortable ledges jut out at barnacle level below a beautifully-crinkled grey wall. Gain the right-hand (facing out) jutting ledge by abseil or a down-climb (D).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the little rib, step left above the bulge and follow the right side of the edge on glorious holds.

Crinoline

Length/grade/stars: 10m S1 F3+

Start location:

Start 1 metres right of Rolled Silver on the adjacent jutting ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

Move up and rightwards to a tiny corner. Step right and follow the smooth wall to a bulge, go over this and continue to the top.

Palais

Length/grade/stars: 8m S0 F4

Start location:

Ten metres short of the trough in the promontory described in the approach to The Fair Melusine etc , descend granite steps down leftwards (facing out), then a ramp down rightwards. At the level of the large roof on the right down-climb a shallow groove on the left (facing out), with a heavily pocketed sidewall, to barnacle level.

Pitch descriptions:

Descend for a metre, step right (facing in) and pull up to a ledge below a clean-cut corner. Follow this to a sloping finish.

Sequentia

Length/grade/stars: 26m S2 F4+

Start location:

Start as for Palais.

Pitch descriptions:

Descend for a metre, then traverse awkwardly right for 8 metres to better footholds below a large open corner. Step left and follow the left rib of the large corner to a band of steeper rock. Traverse rightwards across the corner to gain small ledges. Move up and pull leftwards onto a slabby ramp which leads to the top.

Dark Side

Length/grade/stars: 14m VS

Start location:

Start on the red ledge, 3 metres right of the flake crack of Red Moon Arising at a right-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the crack to a niche on the edge of the wall. Make a difficult move onto the sloping ledge above and continue more easily to the top.

Samphire in Boots

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

On the other side of the buttress containing Red Moon Arising etc, is a golden south-facing wall. Start below the left edge of this wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb rightwards along the flake crack and move up to the break. Finish up the cracks above which prove distinctly unhelpful!

Nan Bred

Length/grade/stars: 19m S

Start location:

Five hundred metres south of Carn Boel the coast path narrows through a rocky defile. A further 90 metres south and clearly visible are twin ridge-like buttresses separated by a narrow zawn (vast potential, suggested name Cleft Buttress?). The two routes climbed so far are located on the hidden right wall of the right-hand (facing in) buttress. Approach by abseil (mid tide and below).
Start 10 metres right of the foot of the right-hand buttress on a flat boulder, below a wide recess and immediately left of a particularly smooth rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb a short corner just left of the smooth rib to a ledge at 4 metres. Step right and follow a fine little crack, before continuing up a groove and rib to finish.

Jizal Wall

Length/grade/stars: 21m HS

Start location:

Start 14 metres right of Nan Bred at a short right-slanting chimney in the lower right side of another recess.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the slanting chimney as elegantly as possible and continue up the cracks in the right wall to a sloping ledge. Just left, pull up a steep wall to the right of a short corner and finish up the crackline above.

Auld Lang Syne

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

Thirty-five metres right (facing out) of the Promontory, is an attractive cracked wall. A further 25 metres right (facing out) past a beautiful rock pool is a black wall facing seaward. Start below the right edge of he black wall; accessed by scrambling or abseil (mid tide and below).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the left side of the edge to a ledge. Make reachy moves up the right side of the edge to gain the top. Easier for the tall!

Umbra

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Twenty-five metres right (facing in) of Auld Lang Syne is the attractive cracked wall; , with an offwidth crack on its right and a shield of darker rock on its left facing seaward. Start on ledges above high tide level below the right side of the dark shield; accessed by abseil, or awkward scrambling across from the Promontory.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up to the break, follow the scoop rightwards for 2 metres, then step left and follow the right edge of the dark shield via the thin flake crack. Fine climbing!

Penumbra

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Umbra at a lower level.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up rightwards to reach the crack immediately left of the offwidth. Go up the crack to where it widens and bends leftwards. Finish straight up the thinner crack above.

Valediction

Length/grade/stars: 12m E1

Start location:

Climb up rightwards to reach the crack immediately left of the offwidth. Go up the crack to where it widens and bends leftwards. Finish straight up the thinner crack above.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the steep lower part of the edge, then follow the slabbier right side to the top.

Thick Cut

Length/grade/stars: 10m S 4b

Start location:

Travers into Halldrine Cove proper along a good ledge, wave-washed from mid-tide onward (underneath Waxing, Waning etc) and over boulders at the back of the cove. A large break leads up and left from sea level, with a comfortable belay (thread round jammed block low down) about half way along under a short, steep corner. This point can also be accessed by a scramble over the top of the buttress and a traverse round and down into the break from the seaward end.

Pitch descriptions:

Pull into the corner which gives out onto a ledge on the right. Move up and left from this into a hand-sized crack above and climb this, surprisingly steeply, to the top. Belay on the large block.

Limpets Don’t Cry

Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 5a *

Start location:

Eastern Walls area. From the top of Lighthouse Zawn go east under the small cliff and scramble down under a jammed boulder to enter a narrow gully which separates an extensive terrace from a small cliff. A few metres along the bed of the gully is a prominent vertical crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Start in the bed of the gully and climb the crack. Steep and sustained, but with excellent holds and protection.

Additional info:

Almost completely non-tidal. Our visits coincided with neap tides, when the gully stayed dry at high tide; however, it is possible that a high spring tide (or waves, of course) could affect the right-hand end.

The Inner Limpet

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: approach as for the route Limpet’s Don’t Cry. East of the big rock platform is a small, steep, juggy, black promontory, which overhangs the sea. Some 10m left of this is a triangular black slab of smoother rock.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the centre of the slab and finish more steeply on large holds. Easy climbing, but a touch bold.

Additional info:

Just tidal. Affected by the highest tides. Not recommended if a swell is running.

Date of ascent: 12/08/2016

Crouching Tiger, Hidden Limpet

Length/grade/stars: 9m VS 4b

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: for approach see the route Limpets Don’t Cry. Start at the left end of the gully, below and just right of the jammed boulder.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb to the jammed boulder; then move up right and climb the wall via a short, twisting crack.

The Silence of the Limpets

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS 4b

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: for approach see the route Limpets Don’t Cry. A few metres right of that route is an obvious, left-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Start in the bed of the gully, and climb the slanting crack. Sustained, but with good holds and protection.

Reservoir Limpets

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: for approach see the route Limpets Don’t Cry. Right of that route (and right of The Silence of the Limpets) the gully narrows. Start on the terrace, below a short, wide crack near the top of the face (this is just left of a square-cut arête).

Pitch descriptions:

Lean across the gully, step onto the face, and climb it on large holds, finishing via the short, wide crack. Easy climbing, but not much gear.

The Golden Compass

Length/grade/stars: 12m HS

Start location:

Start as for Dog-Leg (suppl. p 85).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move right as for Sprint (CC Website) for 3 metres, then take the thin crack in the smooth wall; making good use of the large undercut to the right.

Girl Kissing

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres left of the chute of Postman’s Knock (suppl. p 89) at a short, right-slanting niche below the rib of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull into the niche and follow the delightful rib above to a ledge, before swarming up a short leaning wall to finish.

Ultra

Date of ascent: 11/08/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Umbra.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow Umbra to below its thin flake. Finger traverse leftwards and finish up the thin cracks in the centre of the shield. Neat, well-protected climbing on small positive holds.

Run with the Wolves

Date of ascent: 17/09/2016
Length/grade/stars: E5 6b/6c ***
Climbers: James Forbes

Start location:

1.5m left of Regans Regression

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the overhanging arête 1.5m left of Regans Regression, rock over to a rest below the roof large that extends rightwards. Utilising a paw shaped hold under the roof make a committing crucifix move to gain the bottom of the hanging arête. A gymnastic rock over onto the steep slab and follow the arête direct to the top.

Pebble Dash

Date of ascent: 25/08/2016
Length/grade/stars: 12m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke, JH Mann

Start location:

Start immediately right of the thin crack of Pebble Rebel (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wide crack to a ledge and finish up the rib on the right.

Additional info:

The pebble boulder has been removed by sea action. The thin crack and wide crack mentioned above are easily identified towards the left side of the wall.
The Matchbox repeated; grade confirmed! A micro-gem, quite serious, 2 stars!

Proper Pendeen

Date of ascent: 20/09/16
Length/grade/stars: 26m VD one star
Climbers: Andy March, Des Hanigan

Start location:

The route is on a buttress between Horn Zawn and Rip Tide Wall, although closer to the former. Approach down the broad grassy gully (as for Rip Tide Wall) but after a few metres bear right through a gap in the rocky ridge, to reach rock ledges which slope down to the right. Follow these to the edge of the cliff; the route is now visible on the right (facing out). Abseil to a large ledge which is just non-tidal but can be affected by swell at any tide. The best abseil anchor is up on the right (facing out) where there is a large chockstone in a wide chimney. (This abseil point can also be used for Horn Zawn, by abseiling off the other side.)

Pitch descriptions:

From the large ledge, start up the left side of the wall to a ledge on the right. Climb up and right, passing the base of a rockfall scar, until close to easy ground on the right. From here, climb straight up a prominent crack and step left to finish at the top of the buttress.

Additional info:

A worthwhile addition to the range of easier routes on the killas crags. Positive holds and good rock throughout. The chimney to the right can be climbed at a similar grade, although it’s a different style of climbing. Stay inside at the bulge for maximum fun. May be wet in places. (Pendeen Chimney 22m VD A March (solo) 20.9.16)

New Cove Unconquerable

Date of ascent: 08/10/16
Length/grade/stars: 30m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers: Andy March, Kass Gibson

Start location:

The east-facing wall of New Cove has a prominent right-slanting flake towards the seaward end, with some resemblance to its Stanage namesake. This flake is mentioned in the description of Zawn Alley Rumble; it is visible in the photo on page 166 of the guidebook, and can be seen from Bosigran! The sand in the cove is low at the time of writing, so it may not be possible to traverse in. It is possible to abseil from a large block on the edge of Trevowhan Zawn, but this is a bit too far seaward, and the abseil might end in the water. Instead, there are good anchors in a rock outcrop above the line of the flake, reached by an exposed scramble across grass from the right (facing in).

Pitch descriptions:

Bold, strenuous and varied climbing on a fine line. The bottom four metres of the flake appear to be permanently damp, smooth and slimy, so avoid this section by climbing easy rock to the left, then traverse right to a sloping ledge on the flake. Then climb the flake boldly (very large cam useful at first) until it ends at a small overhang. Continue straight up on good holds to a short wide crack which leads to a rock ledge. Finish carefully up steep grass, using the abseil rope if available, although it’s possible without.

Ruhemann’s Purple

Date of ascent: 05/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 30m E6 6b **
Climbers: Alexis Perry

Start location:

As for Saddle Tramp

Pitch descriptions:

This can’t really be a new route in a busy part of a busy cliff, yet there’s no record of it anywhere and it’s excellent so I’ll record it so other people might get on it and enjoy it. Basically, it tackles the thin line of weakness through the headwall halfway between Pump It Up and Saddle Tramp; underneath all the lichen is a brilliant stretch of technical climbing. Safe but run-out. Follow Saddle Tramp to the diagonal break, chuck in a bunch of gear then attack the sustained thin crack over the bulge and up the headwall with a fair load of difficulty until a small niche with a couple of flat holds. Pull up and right using a hidden flake to gain easier ground.

Additional info:

Tried to onsight but kept falling off so top-roped prior to successful ascent. All gear placed on lead. All necessary holds and gear are clear of lichen – please tread carefully.

Hands of Stone

Date of ascent: 13/04/2017
Length/grade/stars: 18m E2 5c worth stars
Climbers: Rob Seymour, James Mann

Start location:

Start on the flat-topped block between River Man and Magnolia Hawks (CC route archive 23 May 2016) at the bottom of the steep crack lurking at the back of the impending corner/groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Fight up the widening crack to an awkward exit into a scoop above. Continue with interest up the thin continuation crack and wall above. Fine climbing. A determined approach pays.

Additional info:

Named for Roberto Duran, the great Panamanian boxer who liked nothing more than a good inside brawl. Pink Moon (further left, CC route archive 30 May 2016) repeated, quality confirmed: good rock, solid gear, good climbing, well worth stars. Over-graded at E1 5b?

Cassini

Date of ascent: 22/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 20m VS 5a *
Climbers: Rob Seymour, James Mann

Start location:

Start on the sloping platform left of the large recess (containing The Runner, etc.) as for The Launch.

Pitch descriptions:

Get onto to the flat ledge on The Launch from the left-hand side. Step up and left again to reach a good foot ledge at the base of a very shallow crack/groove in the fine golden wall above. Make neat moves up the crack/groove to reach a rightward-trending ramp at its top, finishing up a steep flaky crack above. Very worthwhile.

The Precariat

Length/grade/stars: 22m E3 5c *

Start location:

The wall between Prommie Bastards and Bristletail Suicide.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb to a tiny overlap at 5m (good small cams) then make some precarious moves to the larger overlap. Climb this on good holds, but with limited protection, and finish easily

Additional info:

This route has missed the deadline for the new South Coast & Lizard guide; unfortunately the description refers to routes which are only described in that guide , so they won’t make sense until it appears. Top roped it first.

Swing to the Right

Length/grade/stars: 2m S

Pitch descriptions:

This is just a variation on Socialist Saunter. Climb that route for 5m, swing right on huge flakes, and finish easily up the slab.

64th Street

Date of ascent: 28/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 25m VS
Climbers: Andy March, Malcolm Brown

Start location:

A few metres down and left from the start of Sesame Street (non tidal but can be affected by rough sea).

Pitch descriptions:

Five metres left of Sesame Street is a blunt arête. This route takes the crack line just right of the arete, crossing parallel rising breaks low down.

Additional info:

The parallel rising breaks can be used as an escape route (V Diff).

100 Days

Date of ascent: 30/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 15m VS 4c
Climbers: James Mann, Rob Seymour

Start location:

Start on the sea level platform below the ramp which leads to the start of Immaculate Groove at the foot of a V groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a V groove easily to a ledge. Pull steeply on to the left wall to reach a ragged layback crack. Climb this strenuously to a large ledge. Move right to finish easily at the top of the ramp. Cam belays.

Additional info:

Climbed onsight.

Thoroughbred Variation Start

Date of ascent: 24/07/17
Length/grade/stars: 22m E1 5b
Climbers: Andy March, Sara Scaife

Start location:

Start just right of Gritstone Delinquent.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a crack in the slab, directly below the hanging block, until a difficult move right can be made into the crack of the parent route. Finish up this.

Additional info:

Avoids the desperate start of the original route, thus giving a more balanced and sustained outing.

When in Rome

Date of ascent: 27/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 15m HS 4b
Climbers: Matt George, Laura Packford

Start location:

In the Hadrian’s Wall section of Land’s End. The route climbs the chimney left of the route Hadrian’s Wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Squeeze up the chimney which leads to a few tricky moves to exit.

Treen Team Special

Date of ascent:
Length/grade/stars: 15m E3 5c *
Climbers: Will Hornby, Daisy Peters, James Mann, Rob Seymour

Start location:

Buttress at the far left end of Treen towards Logan Rock. Start at the right hand end of the ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the ledge via a 5c (English) boulder problem, arrange low gear in and around the ledge. Pull some tricky but steady moves higher and higher above the gear, until and big flattie is gained. Follow the large spike to the top. The climbing is steady but the gear is sparse. Top end E3. Climbed in cold conditions without feeling in fingers or toes, grade is a guess.

Additional info:

Climbed Onsight

The Runic Jumper

Date of ascent: 05/05/2017
Length/grade/stars: 7m E2 5c *
Climbers: Billy Ward, Tom Last

Start location:

Looking out from the rip off parking in Lamorna Cove, a massively obvious cracked wall is apparent about half way around the eastern side of the cove, go there.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack, the ledge near the start detract a little, but nice pushy climbing and worth a star. Great micro route. Could be done with pads, but as if anyone is going to bother with that, plus there’s gear so might as well be led.

Additional info:

One of the best aretes in Cornwall is passed on the approach to The Runic Jumper if you take the beach. Unfortunately it looks impossible, or if not then at the very least cutting edge difficulty + probable death type thing. Just in case anyone in Lamorna is looking for that kind of thing!

Life of Brian

Date of ascent: 20/02/2018
Length/grade/stars: 97m E3
Climbers: Pete Saunders, Brian Hannon

Start location:

Would be between route 56 and 57 in 2018 CC Cornwall guide. It climbs the seaward face of the Leaning Pinnacles from the boulder beach.

Pitch descriptions:

An Alpine-style adventure with more than its fair share of loose rock.

1. 45m 4c Climb the obvious smooth groove then trend left over easier unprotected loose slabs. It is safest to approach the belay from the left. Belay on a spike at the base of Off Width His Head. (It might be prudent to seek a safer stance futher left to protect the belayer from potential rockfall.)
2. 22m 5b Step up right onto the flat ledge. Move up and place gear in the crack on the left before spanning right to an offwidth crack. Make bold moves up this to good gear at a steepening, then break right onto a slab. Carefully pick your way through the loose rock to a ledge composed of loose rocks. Step left to a wide crack (cam4) and make commiting moves up the wall immediately to its left to arrive at a good belay stance.
3. 20m 4a As for Off Width His Head.
4. 20m 4a As for Off Width His Head.

Additional info:

On-sight

Comment

At crag today 8/3/2018, this seems to have fallen into the cove, large sandy weetabix scar and debris in bottom of the cove.

Comment

There is no jammed block to belay on at half height as stated in CC guide only a sloping slab, looks like it has washed away. Finished direct up the corner which is not hard but not protected without big cams , has the odd loose block and requires care. The whole thing is harder than Dowsers Route worth Hard V Diff and a star especially if you were to step left and finish up Dowsers pitch 2.

Comment

On the photo diagram on page 134 of the guide the line of 13 Gingerbread Crack is wrongly marked. The route marked 13 is actually The Great Beast Unleashed. Gingerbread Crack is the barely discernible line just right.

Honey Bunny Wall

Date of ascent: 2012
Length/grade/stars: 7m HVS 5b
Climbers: Chris Griffiths, Sara Scaife

Start location:

In the centre of the obvious sea level wall on the east side of the cove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack, tricky at first, passing a ledge in a niche at half height.

Additional info:

I think this is the route claimed by Billy Ward and Tom Last called The Runic Jumper. The thin crack to the left of this was also climbed at E3 5c. The wall to the right is about UK 6a and has yet to be led.

Various members of the Cornwall Climbing Club have climbed about 50 boulder problems in the area between Mousehole and Tater Du, about 20 micro routes on both sides of the cove, and even some 30m longer routes. These were considered minor additions which were best left unrecorded.

Honey Bunny Wall is however a great suntrap with lots of easily accessed problems across the grade range, great for a winter workout.