New Routes – South Devon

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Gammon Head
Date of ascent : Various see below
Start location:
To the left of “Mental Block” is a short steep wall split in the centre by a rightward leaning double crackline.Routes:
The Esoteric Apprentice; VS 4c
60ft. Follows the crackline steeply to a ledge. Move leftwards across the impending wall above then back right, easily up a short corner to ledges and belay. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 29.3.97 on-sight)

Gentle Arete; E1 5a *
60ft. To the right is a fine arete, undercut at the base and easing in angle with a step near the top. Start on the left side, moving into a groove on the right side at about 20ft. Climb the interesting arete above gently with minimal protection. Thread belay well back on ledges. (F.A. Nick Taylor 29.3.97 on-sight)

Razor-back; E1 5a
65ft. Right again is an obvious groove-line which becomes more shallow towards the top.Climb this mainly by delicate bridging, past at least a couple of trust-worthy gear placements to a move rightwards onto a ledge. Regain composure, then finish directly up the continuation of the cornerline. Delicate, bold and exhilarating climbing up the next best line on the cliff after “Mental Block”. (F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight)

Sow Séance; VD
150ft. Climb the ramp-like arete that forms the right hand side of the “Mental Block” bay, in its entirety,on the edge overlooking the sea. Reached by an easy traverse from “Mental Block” or low-tide boulder hopping. (F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight solo)

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Prawle Point
Date of ascent : 28/03/97
Route Name: Kestrel’s Arete
Length/grade/stars : Diff
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Climbs the left arete of the first and largest buttress on the right, above the diagonal path leading up to the coastguard look-outPitch description:
A steep start leads to interesting lichen and climbing.

Additional info:
On-sight

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker – see My First Ascent Bum Start below.
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove Beach
Date of ascent : 24/04/2010
Route name : My First Ascent
Length/grade/stars : 5-8meters, V2 and 1 star, scary.
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L. Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees and follow the signposts Churston CovePitch descriptions:
V2 Standing start which starts with a layback where you layback for around a meter then dyno across to a pocket and then hang on the sloper around shoulder width to the right of the pocket then there is a powerful move up to the next hold while hanging about 50cm up then you put you feet on a slopey hold right up near your chest then push with the legs to a big clear hold to then top out.

Additional info:
Bouldering

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove Beach
Date of ascent : 24/04/2010
Route name : Heave’ High
Length/grade/stars : 8meters, V5 and 1 star, V.scary.
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the Left. Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees follow the signposts churston cove.Pitch descriptions:
V2 Standing start straight into the crux of the overhang where you head over using a heal hook to the left then reach over the overhang to reach a difficult distant medium sized hold then use you heal hook to lift up and then go further to the right to then top out.

Additional info:
Bouldering

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : Die Hard 10
Length/grade/stars : 8meters, V2, 1
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The slab is the second from last slab facing fishcombe cove, which is in sight from the beach the line starts in the middle of the slab. The topo gives you a very clear discription of what the climb entails.Pitch descriptions:
High ball boulder problem, V2

Additional info:
Highball boulder problem, no repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : First Fifteen
Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V2, 1
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The slab is the second from furthest slab facing fishcombe cove from, which is in sight from the beach the line starts to the right of the slab the topo gives a clear insight to what the route will entail.Pitch descriptions:
Not very positive footholds on some of the route.

Additional info:
Highball boulder problem could be used as a practice trad climb.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 24/02/10
Route name : Observation
Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V3, 1
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Use the information on getting to churston cove, then use this information to get to the bottem of the climb. The slab is the second from furthest slab facing fishcombe cove from, which is in sight from the beach the line starts to the as far to the right of the of the slab. The problem traverses to the left of the route. Again the topo gives a clear insight to what the route will entail.Pitch descriptions:

Additional info:
Highball, no repaeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : Ready to Rumble
Length/grade/stars : 7m, v2, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The slab is the last slab insight from the beach, situated just before a Limestone 6ft wall, the line is about 2ft from the small Limestone wall, but once again the topo shows a very clear view of what the climb entailsPitch descriptions:
Use the Topo, the route is quite straight forward and scary.

Additional info:
High ball. No known repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 24/02/10
Route name : That’s the spirit
Length/grade/stars : 5meters, V4, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The problem is situated right at the end of the rock walk facing the rest of the rocks and beach.Pitch descriptions:
It has a terrible landing with bad placing for a boulderind pad, it makes the climb rather dangerous. The climbs basically follows the top of the boulder with the hands, walking hand over hand, with feet flat against the rock. can be wet, the routes is very powerful and pumpy.

Additional info:
Boulder problem, traverse, no known repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : Tidels high
Length/grade/stars : 9meters, V1, 0
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The climb is siuated opposite That’s the spirit, cannot be climbed when high tide.Pitch descriptions:
Good flat landing.

Additional info:
Highball boulderproblem, scary but easy.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : With Summer Berries and Cream
Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V4, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The routes are on the same slab as Die hard 10, First fifteen and Observation, but is more central than others.Pitch descriptions:
It is very fingery and has lots of smeary foot holds on most of the route.

Additional info:
HHighball boulder problem, ladder style, no known repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 26/02/2011
Route name : Fizzy Strawberries
Length/grade/stars : 10m long, V0+, 0
Climbers : Sam Robinson
Start location:
At the top of the hill on the left of the Cove there are two sort of miniture quarries (and I mean miniture). Hike to the one nearest to the sea there is two faces on the one that is more featureless (unlike the other which is long steps)on the left of the face start and then traverse left.Pitch descriptions:
Easy warm up problem. Very straight forward.

Additional info:
Boulder problem, Jake Perkes got the second and Ellis Butler Barker got the third.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 26/02/2011
Route name : Panic Attack
Length/grade/stars : 4 meters, V4, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The featureless face at the end of Fizzy strawberries.Pitch descriptions:
Sit down start, use the tiny crimps to pull on to struggle to the top of the problem.

Additional info:
Boulder problem, No repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker – see original My First Ascent above.
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent :
Route name : My First Ascent Bum Start
Length/grade/stars : V4
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Starts at My First Ascent and sitting start instand of standing.Pitch descriptions:

Additional info:
Bouldering with no repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 11/03/2011
Route name : Bring on the Pain
Length/grade/stars : V5
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. Start at the lowest part of the rock down the sheet of rock, start sitting and traverse right finish up the corner to top out which is scary. When climbing the problem stay as low as possible as this is the correct line if you get higher then it turns into about a V3 problem.Pitch descriptions:
About 10 meters long and quite sharp rock.

Additional info:
Bouldering, No known repeats but quite possible.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove, Tidel Wave
Date of ascent : 11/03/2011
Route name : Bring on the Pain Extension
Length/grade/stars : V6
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. Start at the lowest part of the rock down the sheet of rock, start sitting and traverse right, continue around the corner.Pitch descriptions:
About 18 meters long. Pumpy with sharp rock some of the problem has big jugs then some has tiny crimps etc.

Additional info:
Bouldering, No known repeats but possible.

Submitted by : David Radley
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : London Bridge
Date of ascent : 7/9/12
Route name : Faith
Length/grade/stars : 10m F7b S01
Climbers : David Radley
Start location:
Approach as for Freddie the Frog.Pitch descriptions:
Good moves on an independent line. 1. Climbs the wall between ‘Freddie the frog’ and ‘Pumping dancefloor energy’. Continune traversing under Freddie… until under the centre of the wall. Move up to a prominent gaston and good crimp to its L. Thin moves on layaways and crimps lead up, before a puzzling and pumpy finish on flatties and slopers.

Additional info:
FA done ground up DWS.

Comment Submitted by : Ken Daykin
Crag : Chudleigh Rocks
Date : 21/07/2016
Route name : Never on Sunday

Comment

This is really a comment on SW Climbs vol 2 page 110. Description should really say ‘two caves one 3 metres above the other.

Pitch 1 a better description would be: Climb to the higher cave. Leave it by bridging up until a step left can be made onto a small ledge. Climb slabby rocks above to a large ledge and then a short wall to a higher ledge below the corner of Scar. Belay.

Pitch 2: Climb a crack above the belay and then traverse rightwards round the arete and onto a small ledge on the front of the face. Climb the left arete and then move right to a tree. From here climb up rightwards to a large tree belay (actually at the top of Wogs). Escape over the wall (as for Wogs) to the nice comfy look-out cave, a good lunch spot! This is a optional pitch of 1.5m with a good (and well used!) runner slot in the centre of the top of the wall!

The tree stump at the top of pitch one mentioned in the current guide was nowhere to be seen. This would affect the description of Scar as well.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 12/09/2017

Very Fondant

Length/grade/stars: 12m D

Start location:

From the large ledge at the Quarry (northern) end at the start to Quality Street, walk up leftwards (facing out) for a few metres, then scramble down leftwards (facing out) to reach a small ledge just above high water mark. Start here below a slabby groove which transforms itself into a flake.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove and flake and finish rightwards.

Little Sunny Slab

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start as for Very Fondant.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Descend for 1 metre, step right around the rib and follow a shelf diagonally rightwards to below the centre of an attractive slab. Search for the crucial runner and follow the fine slab to the top.

Skid Row

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Just right of the finish of Little Sunny Slab is a cliff top cut-out. Scramble down the ridge just left (facing out) of the cut-out to high water mark; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Traverse left, with feet at barnacle level, to a small ledge, just right of the edge of the wall. From the left end of the ledge climb the wall and narrow flake crack to the cut-out.

Date of ascent: 14/09/2017

Temeraire

Length/grade/stars: 50m VS

Start location:

Start as for Quality Street (Quarry, northern side!).

Pitch descriptions:

25m 4a Follow Quality Street until it begins to rise; keep low ( 3 metres above high water mark), to gain a stance atop a crinkly slab which slants down into the sea. This is where the traverse becomes much more difficult; also there is a blank groove just left and a red crack above.
25m 4b Climb the steep red crack and pull over onto a white ledge ( this is where Quality Street crosses!). Move up into the groove on the right and follow it, as the angle eases trend slightly leftwards to gain the finishing terrace.

Descent:- depending on where the gear has been left, traverse left or right along the terrace. Exposed, rope recommended!

Blanca

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS

Start location:

Start as for Very Fondant.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rib on the right, step right and follow the left side of the slab via the thin, horizontal seams.

Jammy Dodger

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Jim Jam on a small flake ledge just above high water mark below the left side of the right edge of the wall. Gained by abseil or down-climbing just left (facing out) of the edge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left side of the edge to a ledge, finish up the white groove.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)Date of ascent: 19/09/2017

Teemin’

Length/grade/stars: 9m S1 F3

Start location:

Immediately right (facing in) of Calcite Diamond on Cloudburst Buttress is a shallow bay whose far side has an attractive sidewall. This wall forms the left end of a small square buttress, riven by a cleft on its landward side (named as T-Mac in the CC, SW Climbs Vol 2 book!). The first route takes the right edge of the sidewall facing Calcite Diamond, gained by scrambling down to high water mark just to its right.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse left to the edge and follow it to the top.

Anteak

Length/grade/stars: 7m S1 F3+

Start location:

Descend the left edge (facing out) of T-mac buttress via a slabby groove (Mod) to high water mark.

Pitch descriptions:

Step left into a shallow groove on a blunt rib, and follow this with increasing delicacy.

Daylight

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

The small just east of the rocky shoulder cuts inland diagonally and is very narrow; and is named as Living Zawn in the CC, SW Climbs Vol 2 book! Scramble down the left edge (facing out) of the zawn to high water mark, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb a gangway up leftwards for 3 metres, then make tricky moves to gain the white, left-trending flakes and follow these to the top. Good climbing, with an unusual crux!

Additional info:

Confusion reigns in this area:-

The Friendly Trawlerman

Length/grade/stars: 23m S

Start location:

Ten metres beyond (E) of the narrow zawn containing Daylight (CC Website), is a wider zawn with the routes Placebo etc (named as Hidden Zawn in the CC, SW Climbs Vol 2 book!). Scramble down the left edge (facing out) of the zawn and continue rightwards down a wide crack to gain a large ledge at the entrance to the zawn opposite Placebo; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a steep little corner for 3 metres, then step out left onto a slab. Follow the diagonal crack up rightwards to ledges, from where a short crack in a red wall reaches easier ground.

Additional info:

Named after a concerned fisherman who was concerned about my health and general well-being!!!

Date of ascent: 22/09/2017

Lurv Jeepster

Length/grade/stars: 17m S1 F4+

Start location:

Start as for Very Fondant (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

Descend and step around the rib on the right and make an awkward traverse rightwards for 4 metres to reach high water mark below a blank groove. Bridge, and make a strenuous pull onto the rib right of the groove. Follow this on better holds to the top.

Skedaddle

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start as for Skid Row (CC Website)

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Skid Row leftwards to the small ledge. Take the groove above and slightly right, finishing rightwards. Pleasant climbing!

Patchwork

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Between Jammy Dodger (CC Website) and Cloudburst Buttress is a short wall with a central crackline above a sloping ledge just above high water mark. Gain the sloping ledge by abseil or from the down-climb to Jammy Dodger (VD).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the crackline via a small niche. Short, but sweet!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 25/09/2017

Peasy Crack

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Just left (facing out) of Anteak (CC Website) a small inlet defines the left side of an easy-angled buttress (named as Easy Buttress in the SW Climbs, Vol 2 book!). Abseil down the left side (facing in) of the easy-angled buttress to a small ledge just below high water mark.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Traverse left, descending slightly along a flake handrail for 4 metres, to reach a thin crack just before the inlet narrows markedly. Make a steep pull to start the crack, which then leads pleasantly to the top.

Breakout

Length/grade/stars: 12m HS

Start location:

In the narrow zawn containing Daylight (CC Website), abseil down the back of the zawn to gain a sloping ledge. Mid/low tide and calm seas required!

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step right and climb a short groove to gain a ledge system on the left (facing out) wall of the zawn. Move right and make an awkward move to reach a rock boss above the right-hand end of the ledges. Follow positive holds directly to the top.

Climbers: BJ Clarke, P Ellis
Date of ascent: 04/10/2017

Dark Light

Length/grade/stars: 13m HS

Start location:

Approach as for Breakout (CC Website) by abseiling down the back of the narrow zawn to gain the sloping ledge. Mid/low tide and calm seas required!

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up a ramp to gain a sheltered stance below the chimney proper, which forms the back of the zawn. Climb the chimney up a motley concoction of rock.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)

Little John Silver

Date of ascent: 09/10/2017
Length/grade/stars: 9m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Patchwork.

Pitch descriptions:

4b From the sloping ledge descend slightly and traverse rightwards around the rib, stepping up to gain a clean-cut groove which leads to the top.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Anstey’s Cove Area
Date of ascent: 25/10/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Liv Tiler

Length/grade/stars: 25m HS

Start location:

Twelve metres left of Cocytus and 3 metres left of a line of bolts, is a large recess at 5 metres; start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Pull up into a niche just right of a clump of ivy, and continue up on rounded holds to gain the the recess. Trend up leftwards, then rightwards, before following a vague rib, mainly on its left side, to a double-bolt lower-off.

Talcum Slab

Length/grade/stars: 12m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Liv Tiler at a short steep wall guarding access to a slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move up to a flake hold and heave over onto a small ramp. Step left and make a bold pull to gain the slab. Climb the left side of the slab to tiny tree belays up and left. Virtually unprotected, so care is required with the yellowish powder that gathers on the slab and acts like talcum powder on rock shoe rubber!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)Date of ascent: 14/11/2017

Roots Manuva

Length/grade/stars: 11m HS

Start location:

Start as for Teemin’ (CC Website)

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow Teemin’ for 4 metres, then step left to reach a series of slanting cracks. Move down leftwards onto a good foothold at the base of a small niche; from where a left-trending flake crack gives a brisk finish. Fine climbing!

Additional info:

The route name: apparently a famous and popular rapper (whatever that is?); but it fits!

Date of ascent: 16/11/2017

Squirm Hole

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

On the landward side of the buttress containing Teemin’ etc, is a cleft. Scramble into the cleft and belay on a black boulder at mid water level.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a short greasy corner to a ledge, then chimney out to the light.

Tinctoris

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Immediately right (facing out) of the finish of Roots Manuva (CC Website)is a recessed wall with a groove in its centre. Abseil, or down-climb the groove (VD) to footholds just above a large sea-weedy ledge (mid-tide and below and calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb back up the groove for 3 metres until above the barnacles. Step right and follow positive holds up the left side of the rib to the top.

Stonados

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start as for Tinctoris (CC Web site)

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse right for 5 metres to just short of the main corner. Move up and right to gain and follow this corner to the top.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)Date of ascent: 29/11/2017

Rose-Tinted

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start on a large platform (exposed at mid-tide) on the left side (facing out) of Cloudburst Buttress. gained by abseil or a down-climb (VD).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step across from the right end of the platform and follow the fine twin cracks up the bulging red wall.

Additional info:

This platform lurks just below the surface at high tide and threatens the routes on the right-hand side of Cloudburst Buttress for anyone contemplating a DWS ascent!

Right Wing

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Approach as for The Friendly Trawlerman (CC Website), but continue to scramble down the front of the buttress to mid water mark.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse rightwards across the barnacles and go around the corner of the buttress before striding across a tiny inlet. Climb the wall above on large brittle holds to a sloping ledge. A steep crack 3 metres left gives a contrasting finish.

Date of ascent: 01/12/2017

Mataeus

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS

Start location:

Start as for Rose-Tinted

Pitch descriptions:

4b Step across to below the twin cracks. Traverse right for a metre and climb a flake crack, before stepping right onto the rib. Make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge and mantel for the top. Short, but exciting!

South Hams Coast

Route Comment: Rib Climb, Prawle Point, page 88

01-Jan-1970,
Grade and star confirmed Also Whispering Doom at Elender Cove is confirmed *** VD (page 87)- the thorny access has been recut in the last few weeks. Nigel & Tracey

South Hams Coast > St Anchorite’s Rock > Hermit Arête

Tori Bright

14m VD
25-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Continue along the coast path from where the approach to Hermit Arête branches off and after the steep descent trend rightwards to the right-hand corner of a field (marked by scattered stones and horizontal fence planks). A few metres before the fence planks climb over the wall via an ancient stone stile and scramble down into a cove. The cove contains loose white walls on its right (facing out). Just left of these walls a more solid rib contains an attractive shallow groove. Continue leftwards (facing in, and most tides!) for 30 metres to reach a zawn with overhanging dark grooves in its back wall and a strikingly white left-hand wall containing a shallow depression in its centre. Start below the left side of this depression. Climb the left side of the depression, trending slightly leftwards to an energetic mantelshelf finish. Descend over to the right (facing in). The central line of the depression needs care at the headwall due to hollow flakes: Freaky Flakes (15m S Clarke 25.8.18). Whilst the attractive shallow groove 30 metres right and passed on the approach is; Shale We Dance? (11m S 4a Clarke 25.8.18).

Add Info:- This approach may be a more discreet way of accessing Hermit Arête due to a plethora of new fencing and ‘Private’ signs in this area to protect the breeding of pheasants!

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Black Sheep

15m D
29-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
One hundred and fifty metres right (facing in) of Hopeful is the dividing promontory (Woolman Point). Start on a large boulder in the notch between the mainland cliff and the landward of the two pinnacles. Step off the boulder (mid tide and below!) onto the mainland cliff and trend leftwards to pull through a small bulge on large quartz holds. Continue up the slab and over a steepening, before stepping left to belays in a slabby groove. The groove gives a good down-climb (Mod). Quite a pleasant route and neatly avoids the upper choss!

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Woolsack

16m D
29-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres right of Black Sheep in the centre of the north face of the landward pinnacle below a black, left-slanting roof. Pull through the left side of the roof and amble rightwards along a ramp to its end. Move onto a flake ledge and follow the short groove on the right to reach the summit ridge. Descent:- a down-climb is available (D), down a quartz crack in the seaward edge.

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Fall Out Zone

14m HS 4b
29-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twenty metres left (facing out) of the beach at Outer Hope, a huge rockfall has created an impending headwall. Start just right of the large rockfall boulders at a sinuous crack rising from a rock pool. Traverse in from the right and climb the crack to a ledge. Follow the dark rock above to a ledge and belays. Descent:- the broken rock to the left (facing out).

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Bizzy Bee

10m VD
29-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Thirty metres right of Fall Out Zone a sea inlet (flooded at low tide!) separates two pinnacles. The right-hand and smaller one has a prow facing landward. Start just right of this prow. Traverse left under the prow and pull onto a higher ledge. Continue up the bizarre jugs above. DWS grade: S1 F3 (at least mid tide required!).

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Shippen Traverse and Needle

70 M
07-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Go left out of the car park at Outer Hope between the houses to reach the harbour. Clamber over the harbour wall and commence scrambling leftwards around the promontory on the right (facing out, known locally as Shippen). Eventually a col is reached between the mainland cliff and a black and honey-coloured pinnacle to seaward (the Needle). This is the left-hand of the two pinnacles referred to on the approach to the route Bizzy Bee!

From the col climb the landward edge of the Needle to the summit. Descent:- down-climb this edge. The seaward edge is easier but requires a long step below the north face.

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

A Taste Of

11 M
07-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
On the north face of the Needle (right side, facing out), the first feature reached 15 metres from the col is a crack in the dark rock.

Climb the crack to the edge and continue to the summit for the better belays.

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Honey Trap

14 D
07-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of A Taste Of at one of the main features of the north face, a steepening groove above a small recess.

Climb the steepening groove and crack to the edge.

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Honey Moon

15 S
07-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Honey Trap.

Make a long stride right across the recess, climb the rib above, keeping right on the honey-coloured rock. Fine climbing!

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Nectary

16 S
07-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Honey Moon at a wide groove.

Trend leftwards up the groove, where it steepens, step right and continue to the top. The spiky wall just right gives, Spoon Lick (14m VD Clarke 7.9.18).

South Hams Coast > Hope Cove

Honey Monster

14 HS 4a
07-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
From halfway up the stepped landward edge of the Needle, descend down leftwards for 6 metres to below a right-to-left ramp feature on the south face. Gain the ramp steeply and follow it to the summit.

South Hams Coast > Bury Stone Cliff

Tail Wagging

23m VD
27-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
From the top of the easy slab descent to Privateer, walk right (facing out) for 8 metres to the top of a slanting groove. Abseil down the groove to a rust-coloured vein in the ledges below (all tides!). Start at the slab forming the left side of the slanting groove.

Climb the slab and the right side of the white blade of rock above to spike runners. Finish up the left-hand of the two grooves.

South Hams Coast > Bury Stone Cliff

Tail-Gating

24m S
27-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Tail Wagging and just right of the slanting groove.

Climb a slabby groove and the steeper groove above to a ledge. Move rightwards up a ramp and follow the edge to the top.

South Hams Coast > Bury Stone Cliff

Old Wives

24m VD
27-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Fifteen metres right of Tail-Gating is a large slabby amphitheatre. Start below the left side of the amphitheatre below an attractive, dark, quartz-flecked wall.

Climb the dark wall and continue direct up easier ground.

South Hams Coast > Bury Stone Cliff

Swallow

25m VD
27-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Old Wives. Scramble up rightwards to an optional belay below the main corner of the amphitheatre.

Climb the corner to the overhang, and make a long traverse left to the finish of Old Wives.

South Hams Coast > Bury Stone Cliff

Canterbury

12m HS 4b
27-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the optional belay of Swallow below the main corner.

Bridge up and step right onto the undercut grey wall. Move up and follow the handrail rightwards to the edge; from where a steep pull gains easier ground and nut/cam belays on the slabs.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Waterwald

8m 6b(French)
04-Aug-2019, James Oswald
It’s on the same buttress as “Arapiles, O Arapiles”. A good introduction to DWS and a nice warmup for the harder routes on this buttress. Pull out left for 1 metre from the starting ledge of “Arapiles…”. Fire up the wall via several bouldery moves on juggy sidepulls. Stay left of the arete at the top.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Sentinel Block

9m S 4b
25-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
The entrance to Boulder Choke Zawn is guarded to its left by a large, flat-faced boulder (see guidebook p 420). Gain the lowest ledge (lowish tide!) on the left (facing in) side of the boulder; start here. Step right and climb the right side of the edge for 3 metres, then traverse right to a small ledge in the centre of the face. Finish direct. The DWS grade is S0 F4!

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Alliatronic

10m HS 4b
10-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Sixty metres left (facing out) of the Outer Pinnacle a group of rusty stakes indicate the top of a fine wall. Access is by scrambling down adjacent to the man-made wall. Stride rightwards across onto a small ramp. Pull rightwards around a fin to gain a crack containing large holds. Go up the crack and make a bridging move into the main overhanging groove, finish up this. The DWS grade is S2 F4.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Ephelis

9m VS 4b
13-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Alliatronic. Follow Alliatronic to the crack with the large holds. Step left and climb the shallow groove, finishing rightwards. In the event of missing any of the crucial hidden holds, fall to the right (facing in) The DWS grade is S3 F4+ (serious).

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Crepuscalar Crawl

10M S 4b
31-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the left end (facing out)of the starting platform of John and Tom’s Excellent Adventure. Traverse right (facing in), with feet on the black band and step up onto a shelf. Finish up the rib on the right. The DWS grade is S0 F4.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Bubbly Blonde

23m S 4a
13-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Sea Slater. Follow the traverse of Sea Slater leftwards for 10 metres until it becomes more difficult, and just below and right of a shallow groove. Continue up left to a short wide crack. Make a couple of moves up this, then stretch left for a hidden flake crack. Follow the ramp rightwards to easier ground.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

South Sea Bubble

25m S 4a
09-Sep-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Bubbly Blonde. Follow Bubbly Blonde to its first wide crack. Step left to reach another wide crack. Stride left onto a pink area and climb a steep ramp system rightwards to easier ground. The DWS grade for this route and Bubbly Blonde is S1 F3+. The steep shallow groove mentioned on the approach, pulling over its capping roof rightwards is Bubble Wrap (17m S2 F3 Clarke 9.9.2018). Whilst the delightful bubbly slab just right is Bubble Gum (14m S2 F2 Clarke 9.9.2018)

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Minx

9m S 4a
09-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Berry Head Area Red Walls (p 270) Follow Mini Traverse to the starting foothold of Corker. Step left and pull up to gain the finishing notch. DWS grade S0 F3+. The right arete, taken from its base, of this section of wall; gives an interesting outing, using the long-abandoned ‘monkey-up-a-stick’ technique! Cheeky Monkey (8m S0 F4 Clarke 9.8.18).

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Barndance

7m S 4b
15-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Brixham Area Red walls (p 270) Start as for Mini Traverse, but continue down the approach gully to its base. Low tide and calm sea! Traverse right (facing in) to reach a clump of barnacle-encrusted jugs. Crimp the bulge above to the break and finish more easily. DWS grade S0 F4.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Chocco Mousse

20m D
15-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Brixham Area Red Walls (p 270) Sixty metres right of Evening Arete and just before the descent slabs an attractive calcite-decorated slab rises just left of a small inlet. Start below the dark, red vein crack forming the left boundary of the slab. Climb the vein and trend rightwards, finishing to the left of the loose overhang. Cam/nut belays on top of the overhang. The red impending wall just left is Moussaka (8m S 4a Clarke 15.8.18).

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Moose

21m VS 4c
15-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Brixham Area Red Walls (p 270) Start 4 metres right of Chocco Mousse at the centre of the slab. Climb the steepening slab to flakes below a short wall. Move up and make a difficult step onto the upper slab. Continue up left of the loose overhang to the top. Four metres right, the crack rising from the small inlet and finishing right of the loose overhang gives Sluice Mousse (21m D Clarke 15.8.18).

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Mother of Pearl

9m S 4b
26-Jul-2017, BJ Clarke (solo)
Brixham Area Coastguard Cliffs (p 273) A tight line between Sirocco and Mistral. Climb the compact wall, utilizing the short flake crack on the right in the upper section.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Rail-Line

12m S 4a
05-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Telegraph Hole. The Sea Walls (p 341) Start 2 metres right of Saline below a shallow groove. Enter the groove from the left via a hand-rail. Climb it and the short wall above to belays at the man-made wall.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Parsec

14m S 4a
05-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Telegraph Hole. The Sea Walls (p 341). Start on the platform below Praline, just above high tide level. Traverse right to a groove, continue rightwards for a further 3 metres below a prow to reach a slabby ramp. Move onto the ramp, then launch leftwards up the steep wall to gain the top.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Jolly Not Sensible Arête

11m HS 4a
05-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Daddyhole (p350). Descend the chimney as for Troy Tempest etc. to just above barnacle level. Swing up leftwards onto ledges on the face of the pinnacle via a wobbly block and short crack. Climb the right arête of the pinnacle overlooking the descent chimney; keeping well aware of the starting ledges! DWS grade S2 F4. NOTE for the editor/manager. The DWS grade for the previous route (Parsec) is S1 F4!

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Trova

6m S 4b
05-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Daddyhole (p 350). Ten metres left of Sandpiper, a pointed, barnacled boulder allows the overhanging wall on an adjacent boulder to be overcome. Start on top of the pointed boulder (submerged at high tide). Rock over leftwards onto a small but positive foothold. Above, trend up leftwards for the safer water. DWS grade S1 F4+.

Torquay Area

Sidi Bel Abbes II

60m HVS 4c
31-Aug-2020, Bruce Woodley & Steve Aplin
South Devon CC guide (2018) page 476 East Devon Extra/Ladram Bay sea stacks Big Picket (new route) Sidi Bel Abbes II Grade IV 4c/A1 60m FA: (I) Bruce Woodley, Mark Swinnerton (USA) 11/08/1999 FA: (II) Bruce Woodley, Steve Aplin 31/08/2020 The first incarnation involved all out desert warfare with an overhanging 5c offwidth choked with sand. Climbed on the afternoon of the 1999 eclipse, it disconcertingly fell down within 18 months. Haunted by the experience, Bruce Woodley returned in August 2020 to add a new first pitch up the landward arête, followed by aiding directly up the shear plane left by the demise of the offwidth’s left wall. This is now the ‘steadiest route’ to the top of the stack. 1.4c 30m Start on a high tide ledge at the base of the landward arête. Bridge rightwards across a corner to gain good holds on the right hand (West) face. Careful choice of brittle holds (some of which take slings) lead up slightly rightwards to a relic six inch nail on a vegetated ledge. Traverse left to the arête (good warthog) then up to join the crumbly crest, which can be outflanked on the left via grass and sea cabbages which lead to a belay below the headwall.(ice hammer/axe useful on this section.) 2. A1 30m (15m to top, 15m to furthest anchor.) Aid up the situ bolt ladder (a mix of rebar, coach bolts and warthogs.) Two situ ice screws(one 6m south of the summit) and rebar at the top of ‘Razor Fish’ provide decent summit anchors-but a simultaneous abseil from the seaward end of the stack is still recommended and should allow both team members to land on the plinth and keep themselves and their ropes dry. Hauling canoes onto the plinth also avoids them drifting away or mooring issues. Gear: 12 short tie-offs (5mm cord), slings, etriers, 15 quickdraws, 2 ice axes/hammers. All drive in gear insitu (Aug 2020) though not necessarily secure or safe. Caveat Emptor: The experimental use of zinc, coach headed, M10 wood screws comes with a health and safety warning that they are not designed for corrosion resistance and when overtightened they can shear.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Lammas

8m S 4a
01-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Lamb’s Tail. Move up to the bulge, pull over slightly to the right and finish up leftwards. The DWS grade is S1 F3+.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Two Shakes

7m VD
17-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke, S Zeki
Meadfoot Quarry, The Pinnacle Area (p 368) Start below Pig’s Ear. Step left and jug-haul pleasantly up the twin grooves, finishing up the left-hand one.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Platelets

8m HS 4c
17-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke, S Zeki
Meadfoot Quarry The Pinnacle Area (p 368) Start 15 metres right of Pig’s Ear below a V-shaped overlap. Move up to the overlap and undercut the disturbing flakes leftwards, before pulling over onto the finishing slab.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Cool Isolation

9m HS 4c
01-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Meadfoot Quarry The Pinnacle Area (p 368) Start as for Platelets. Climb up to the right side of the V-overlap and make an interesting move leftwards onto the upper slab; up this to finish.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Folding

8m S 4a
01-Aug-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Meadfoot Quarry, The Pinnacle Area (p 368) Start 5 metres right of Cool Isolation (CC Website 1/8/18). Climb the left side of a ribbed groove. Step left onto the slab below the overlap and pull over to gain the finishing groove.

Torquay Area > Long Quarry Point

Reet Petit

16m S 4a
05-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Petit Tor Point (p 462). A nice link-up between Days Like These and Scoop Route. From the shallow cave at the start of the entry traverse move up rightwards via the large slots. Continue along the pockets of Days Like These and reach the sloping shelf. Move diagonally rightwards near the top of the wall until a slight descent using a hidden jug followed by a step up right gain the leaning groove of Scoop Route; finish up this. The DWS grade is S1/2 F4.

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Access Code

14m S 4b
27-May-2020, BJ Clarke (solo)
Triangle Point (photo p 368) has sunny easy-angled slabs on its south side and a hidden sea cliff on its north side. The sea cliff is a slabby wall with a slanting overlap at half-height. The first four routes start at a step on the right (east, facing out) of the cliff edge near the top of the south-facing slabs and require high tide for the DWS! Descend onto the north side and traverse right for 7 metres, descending slightly, to reach a white wall just left of the main cliff. Pull up the right side of the wall and finish up the slab. DWS grade S1 F4.

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Codex

17m S 4b
27-May-2020, BJ Clarke (solo)
Follow Access Code to the white wall, and step right around the edge. Move right for 2 metres and pull over the small overlap, finish up the slab above. DWS grade S1 F4.

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Ossen Feather

20m S 4b
27-May-2020, BJ Clarke (solo)
Follow Codex around the edge, step down and traverse right for 3 metres to below the right-hand end of a small overlap. Pull up steeply and finish up the slab. DWS grade S1 F4.

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Oaliburn

24m S 4b
09-Aug-2020, BJ Clarke (solo)
Follow Ossen Feather to below the right-hand end of the small overlap. Traverse a further 4 metres right to below the narrowest point of the main overlap (possible stance). Make a brisk move over the overlap into the right side of a shallow recess and finish up the grey slab. Not a DWS!

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Katzenvellenovan

22m S 4b
27-May-2020, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the right (west, facing in) side of the sea cliff below two impending ramp lines in the side wall. Step left onto a white-encrusted ledge, then traverse awkwardly leftwards (brittle rock) around the edge onto the main face. Trend up leftwards to a good ledge and optional belay (large cams, hexes) below the main overlap. Climb leftwards through the overlap, and trend slightly right up the slab to finish up twin cracks. Not a DWS!

Torbay Coast > Brixham Area > Shoalstone Beach

Cormorant Traverse

4m f5+
04-Sep-2021, James Hart
Starting from a high block to the right of the narrow cave at the end of the spectre sector, reach out left to a crimp on the arête above the cave. Traversing across the block and joining the top of the spectre sector proper, finishing as for spectre right.

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Flux Ache

9m MS 4a
05-Dec-2021, BJ Clarke (solo)

Start as for Cool Isolation. (CC Website 1.8.18). Trend up rightwards to gain a rust-coloured groove, follow this mainly by its left rib. DWS grade S2 F3+, high tide required! Note for Editor: The calendar date seems stuck at year 2020. The actual date for this ascent was 5.12.2021! Merry Christmas

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Pumpernickle

15m S 4a
22-Dec-2021, BJ Clarke (solo)

Start at the large rounded hidden ledge (littered with lethal rusting ironmongery!), situated at high tide level below the seaward face of the Pinnacle. This is gained by descending the deep slot as for Plimsoll Line (p 368) and traversing leftwards (facing out) from near the bottom. From the right-hand side of the ledge traverse right (facing in) at high tide level descending slightly to gain a sloping niche just left of the cave/overhang. Climb the shallow groove above and make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge for 2 metres and follow the shelving slabs leftwards to gain the quarry floor. DWS grade S2 F3+

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Twelfth Night

14m S 4a
05-Jan-2022, BJ Clarke (solo)

Start as for Pumpernickle (CC Website 22.12.21). Follow Pumpernickle to the sloping niche. Step right and climb the rib to gain the sloping ledge, before finishing directly. DWS grade S2 E3+.

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Craquelure

10m S 4b
28-Jan-2022, BJ Clarke (solo)

Start as for Lammas (CC Website 1.8.18). Pull over the bulge as for Lammas, then stride left onto a small finely-positioned ledge on a rib. Continue up the rib to the top. DWS grade S1 F4. Essentially a variation on Lammas, but it’s a little gem. High tide recommended! FA date 28.1.22 The name: the cracking of varnish on old paintings

South Hams Coast > Westcombe rocks beach SX634456

Polly’s peril

15m S 4a ☆
17-May-1992, Malcolm Clark

At the western end of the beach at low tide walk towards Hoist beach through a narrow sandy causeway. Here you will find a clean slab and an obvious corner with positive holds. Start at the base of the corner and climb directly to the top of the fin of rock. Break out and move right to belay on small wires well back. Abseil off a rocky spike returning to the base of the climb. First climbed on 17/05/1992! Taken a while to send it in !!!

Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Fleckles

8m S
26-Dec-2022, BJ Clarke (solo)

Start as for Folding (CC Website 1/8/18) at the right-facing groove. Move up right and follow the miniature white-flecked flakes until a step right gains the easier finishing groove.

South Hams Coast > Combe Point SX 88304867

Reginald Reade’s Route

16m D
03-Nov-2021, David Hillebrandt & Paul Olliffe

Park at the National Trust car park just west of Little Dartmouth (OS: SX 874491). Walk south on the surfaced section of the coast path and on arriving at the cliff top turn east until the path swings north at a gate towards Willow Cove. From this gate walk downhill on small tracks through gorse on the west side of a barbed wire fence. At the bottom the barbed wire has a plastic sleeve to give access to the obvious ridge that runs out to the tip of Combe Point. Move down this ridge until it flattens slightly. Nearer sea level it has slabs on its west side. Pinnacles will be seen above the east face and these mark the top of the crag. Rock belays are available up the ridge and this will give a 30m abseil to ledges and belays just above the high tide barnacle line.

The crag consists of a prominent triangular slab/wall above a zawn. Moving right is an arete and then easier angled slab (bottom of abseil and start of Reginald Reade’s Route) further right still is an overhanging wall above another zawn. From the bottom of the abseil climb the easy angle slab on big holds until the wall above steepens. Pass the steep wall on its left via a steeper slab and left arete. Move up the left side of the arete to good belays (or use the abseil rope) The route name comes from the memorial cross to Reginald Colebrook Reade who fell over the cliff at Willow Bay in 1891.
https://www.padfield.org/tim/kyk/kayaklog/p213.html

Torbay Coast > Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle Area

Slotto

7m VD
17-Oct-2022, B J Clarke (solo)
Twenty metres beachwards from the start of Katzenvellenovan (CC Website 27.05.20) is a large tilted boulder of fine rock with a striking arête facing Katzenvellenovan. Start below this arête. Step off the boulder and move up the arête for 1 metre, then move right for 1 metre. Climb direct up slots and edges, keeping just right of the shallow rounded groove, to the top. Note for Editor…. FA date was 17.10.22…not 17.10.20 as shown in the box above!