Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.
Additional Pembroke Stackpole & Lydstep routes submitted by Barry Clarke
Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
| Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep – Deep Water Soloing (DWS)The notes below refer to the Rockfax Deep Water Guide by Mike Robertson – click for details
New routes submitted by: Adam Wainwright 1. Lydstep, Skomar Arch West Water Gel 6b+, S1 2. Lydstep, Cool Man Chu Wall Eustasy 7a, S2 |
| Submitted by : Simon Needham Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Mowing Word (E Face) Date of ascent : 12 September 09 Route : Deflection Length/grade/stars : 25 metres, HS 4b/c Climbers : Simon Needham, Denise Forster Start Location: Start about 5m left of Illusion Corner below twin opposing grooves, the right-hand of which contains a pale block /spike.Pitch description: Climb to the block – excellent hold behind it – and make steep moves to gain a horizontal break. Continue slightly left to a mantel onto a ledge to the left below easier-angled rock. Go up then step left into a scoop groove and finish up this past blocks. |
| Submitted by : James Kay Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Beck’s Point Date of ascent : 08/06/2010 Route name : You Told Me This Was a Diff… Length/grade/stars : 15m, E1 5a, 0 stars Climbers : James Kay Start location: The arête (Beck’s Arête)Pitch descriptions: Climbed on the left hand side of the arête only gives interesting climbing to the top with some funky moves. It is however somewhat eliminate. Resist the temptation to bridge into the groove.Additional info: First ascent soloed. |
| Submitted by : Simon Needham Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Mowing Word East Face Date of ascent : 17/09/2010 Route name : Nutmeg Length/grade/stars : 30m, HVS, 1 star Climbers : Simon Needham, Denise Forster Start location: A right-to-left rising line on the wall taken by The Corner and Pilgrim’s Chorus. Builds up to an exposed finish. Start at a ledge in the base of Square Chimney.Pitch descriptions: 5a. Trend left up the wall to the ledge on Corner Crack, below the corner. Move up the corner for about 10 feet, then follow a line of holds left to the large spike block in the crack of Pilgrim’s Chorus. Continue traversing left following a vague break then make a move up to gain a good crack (this is part of a crack system which slants left up the left side of this wall). Continue directly to the top.Additional info: On sight. We also climbed a more direct start to Pilgrim’s Chorus than the current guide suggests, making it more independent of Corner Crack; climb up to a large ledge on the left, then take a steep shallow groove with a hard starting move to the left end of the ledge at 25 ft. Continue as per the description in the guide. Possibly 5a, and may just about bump the overall grade for the route up to HVS. Pilgrim’s Chorus is not loose as the guide suggests – in fact it is a fine pitch, worth a star, as is Corner Crack. |
| Submitted by : Gwyn Evans Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Lydstep Cavern Area Date of ascent : 11/08/2010 Route name : Tidal Race (direct finish) Length/grade/stars : 12m S1 F6b Climbers : Julian Lines Start location:Pitch descriptions: After climbing the right hand pillar of Tidal Race and where the original line goes left to join beyond Backpacking, launch up through the roofs above on huge holds and veer rightwards to finishAdditional info: DWS |
| Submitted by : Iwan A Jones Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Mother Careys Date of ascent : 27/05/2011 Route name : Blood, Sweat and Fears Length/grade/stars : Length – as for Joyous Guard: E1/2 5b, Climbers : IA Jones, K Rowe, C Evans Start location: Usual Mother Carey approachPitch descriptions: Start as for Joyous Guard. Climb up into the caveniche but move left its Left arête. Swing out onto the steep wall, to the right of the Rock Idol corner, and follow the wall just left of the arete with interest until it is possible to move right towards the lower part of the wide crack of Joyous Guard [just below its crux].Additional info: Probably done before but a good little alternative nevertheless. A variation start to Joyous Guard, done in error of the correct route as I could not follow the Rockfax guide due to visual dyslexia and the fact my memory was telling me to go left rather than right. |
| Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Coastal Path Zawns Date of ascent : 13/09/11 Route name : Hot Seat Length/grade/stars : 80 feet, S Climbers : Peter Biglands, Philip Biglands Start location: Abseil using anchors a long way back. A 60m rope may be needed.Pitch descriptions: The groove line to the left of The Chopper, moving right to finish up the last 10 feet of that route to avoid loose rock. |
| Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Coastal Path Zawns Date of ascent : 12/09/11 Route name : The Last Laugh Length/grade/stars : 60 feet, HS Climbers : Philip Biglands, Claire Biglands Pitch descriptions: Just right of The Lock is a series of cracks. Start in a recess below 2 chimneys. Climb up a ramp in the left hand chimney and step left onto a pedestal. Take the leaning wall above and finish on the left arête. |
| Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Coastal Path Zawns Date of ascent : 12/09/11 Route name : Bring me Sunshine Length/grade/stars : 60 feet, HS 4a Climbers : Philip Biglands, Claire Biglands Pitch descriptions: Back and foot up the chimney to the right of The Last Laugh (see above) onto a ledge. Continue up cracks in the corner on the right. |
| Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Coastal Path Zawns Date of ascent : 13/09/11 Route name : Cormorant Applause Length/grade/stars : 60 feet, VS 4b Climbers : Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands Pitch descriptions: The wide crack to the right of Bring me Sunshine (see above) climbed using holds on the outside. |
| Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Coastal Path Zawns Date of ascent : 08/09/11 Route name : Life in the Old Fossil Length/grade/stars : 40 feet, HVS 4c Climbers : Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands Pitch descriptions: About 20 feet right of Bring me Sunshine (see above) is an obvious quartz streaked slab. Start at a thin crack in the centre and climb up to follow the quartz streaks. |
| Submitted by : Ken McBride Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Jackdaw Point, Penally, Lydstep Bay to Tenby Date of ascent : 18-12-2011 Route name : Chunky Bunky Length/grade/stars : 80 Foot HVS 5a 1 star Climbers : Ken McBride and Alison McBride Start location: Abseil as per access to rest of the slab. Starting form the mid slab belay of Central route, Below the pot hole in the slab at quarter height.Pitch descriptions: 1 pitch. 80ft. Takes the blank looking wall left of Central Route and right of the Jackdaw. Stay left of the obvious pothole and climb directly up the slab. Move left to the crack and climb this to where it peeters out to an open half pipe and use the irregular edges if this to move up to a weak break and a poor crack left of the pot hole,small off-set. Move up again using various poor cracks to reach good horizontal breaks and the crazy paving of the upper part of the slab. The bottom of the slab is bold on the border HVSVS 4c5a, only two runners in the first 15 foot and no positive holds for either feet or hands.Through a section of HS 4b finishing HS 4a.Additional info: Ali and me went down at the weekend and climbed on the slab. I had seen the line previously whilst taking a friend out to get some easy sea cliff experience and top roped it having been soaked on Rusty Point by the incoming tide where Paul had been leading, as all left for day. Cannot find any reference to the line in Pembs Part Two,or on line. Have not named it as would assume that it has probably been climbed. Have a photo for clarification. Could you please assist in identifying this route so my wife can keep her log up dated. If confirmed as new route will name then. 1st time at this so sorry if a bit confused. Your help appreciated. Thank you – Ken |
| Submitted by : Andrew Darby Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Mother Carey’s Kitchen, Through Cave Date of ascent : 25/6/12 Route name : Alternative start to Pitch 1 Threadneedle Street Length/grade/stars : VS 4b Climbers : Andrew Darby, Lee Bower Start location: Ab in from either of the usual points at low tide. Scramble in either the upper or lower entrance and go to back of cave. If upper entrance is wet and slimy, this is a good indication the usual start will not be pleasant. An alternative start to the first pitch is suggested, by threading the needle through the blowhole at the back of the through cave, on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do at the time, to match the route name.Pitch descriptions: Climb into the cave in the right hand wall and post yourself up the left hand tube. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the beginning of the chimney proper, above the steps. 60′ to first stance. VS 4b.Additional info: On sight |
| Submitted by : Luke Jones Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Hidden Slabs Date of ascent : 25/07/2012 Route name : First Decision Length/grade/stars : 25m, VD, 0 Climbers : Luke Jones, Jim Rubery Start location: Belay from Red Slab start.Pitch descriptions: 25m. Step right into the corner and follow on clean rock to the top.Additional info: Clean Onsight. |
| Submitted by : Luke Jones Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Hidden Slab Date of ascent : 26/07/2012 Route name : Indecision Length/grade/stars : 25m, HS, 1 Climbers : Luke Jones, Jim Rubery Start location: Belay from Red Slab start.Pitch descriptions: 25m, 4a, Follow left arête of slab as closely as possible (grade given for small nuts and micros in arête).Additional info: Clean ascent after abseil inspection. |
| Submitted by : Dave Wright << Comment Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Penally East, Crescent Slab Route name : Children at Play & Ewe Idiot Comment: These 2 routes had been previously climbed as Another One Move Wonder (VS, 4b) and One Move Wonder (HS, 4a), both D.Wright, F.Kenden 121104. I’m 90% sure they take the same lines, ie at the 2 most obvious weaknesses in the overlap, separated by about 4 metres. |
| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Penally West, Fisherman’s Point Date of ascent : 22/07/2012 Route name : Cave Escape Length/grade/stars : 20m, VDiff, 0 Climbers : D.Wright, F.Kenden Start location: Between Cave Route & The Reeler. Start as Cave Route.Pitch descriptions: 1. 20m Climb the pillar but traverse diagonally rightwards, underneath the overhang and above the smaller cave entrance. |
| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Mowing Word, Forgotten Wall Date of ascent : 23/08/2008 Route name : Lemon Squeezy Length/grade/stars : 25m, VS, 0 Climbers : F.Kenden, D.Wright Start location: Between Gullibiliy and Sulky Poos.Pitch descriptions: 1. 40ft 4a Start on the mid-tide boulders, or a ledge at high-tide level, below the most prominent, left-hand, section of the large overhang. Ascend to the ledge, beneath this section of the overhang 2. 40ft 4c Move steeply rightwards, past a small blocky thread, to surmount the overhang, and then continue up the wall.Additional info: Previously submitted to CC, prior to publication of 2012 guide, in Oct 2009, so perhaps there’s a reason for not including it. |
| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Penally West, Funnel Hole Zawn Date of ascent : 29/04/2006 Route name : Post Marathon Blues Length/grade/stars : 30m, HS, 0 Climbers : F.Kenden, D.Wright Start location: An alternative, low-tide, start to Grey Funnel Line, ie before Grey Funnel Line.Pitch descriptions: 1. 30m Start 5m right of the free-standing pyramid in the zawn bed by bouldering 3m to a dry stance in a niche. Start up the vertical crack before moving right below the roof and continuing right, round the nose formed by the big black block. Ascend steeply into the runnel to gain a platform, then follow cracks diagonally rightwards as Grey Funnel Line.Additional info: Previously submitted to CC, prior to publication of 2012 guide, in Oct 2009, so perhaps there’s a reason for not including it. |
| Submitted by : Martin Whitaker << Comment Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Lydstep PointPinnacle Buttress Route name : A Friend In Need Comment: First Ascent was actually on 11/11/1993, and was by Martin Whitaker and Geoff Pickup |
| Submitted by : Dan Lane Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Jackdaw Point Date of ascent : 04/04/2013 Route name : Resonance Length/grade/stars : HVS 4c, 30m, 1 star Climbers : Dan Lane, David Kirsfelds Start location: Same as the approach for the other routes on Jackdaw PointPitch descriptions: 1 pitch of 30m, HVS 4c. Start on the notch between the jackdaw slab and the rocksmall island just right of ‘The Link’. Climb directly upwards, through a small roof then follow a faint crack system upwards to a hidden hole. Just above this the route joins ‘The Last Time I saw Nat Allen’ and finished up it through some less stable and grassy rock.Additional info: Climbed onsight with no pre-inspection. |
| Submitted by : David Kirsfelds Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Jackdaw Point Date of ascent : 04/04/13 Route name : The Sockdraw Length/grade/stars : 28m, HVS 5a Climbers : David Kirsfelds (lead), Dan Lane (second) Start location: Abseil as for ‘The Jackdaw’, either to a stance on the slab or the tidal platform.Pitch descriptions: Take the route up the slab between ‘The Jackdaw’ and ‘Central Route’. Pull over the bulge from the tidal platform and make easy moves up to where the slab steepens. From here, arrange some fiddly gear and make a series of crimpy moves, keeping right of the vertical cracks on ‘The Jackdaw’ and left of the big hole on ‘Central Route’. Continue up easier ground to the top.Additional info: Clean lead after abseil inspection |
| Submitted by : Barry Clarker << Comment Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Becks Point West (p 343) Route name : Positively Barmy Comment: Aspirants for this route may be alarmed to discover that at present starting from the beach involves 5 metres of unprotected VS 4c climbing! |
| Submitted by : Dave Talbot Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Mowing Word – East Date of ascent : 01/05/2013 Route name : Independence Dave Length/grade/stars : 27m, E1 5bc, (1) Climbers : Dave Talbot, Henry Castle Start location: Start as for LogosPitch descriptions: Climb Logos to the break, then climb the sloping shallow groove directly up the wall. Place a good wire in the only crack and then make hard moves (crux) up and left to join Mental block, finish up this.Additional info: climbed on-sight |
| Submitted by : Steve Quinton Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Chance Encounter Zawn Cosmic Cliff Date of ascent : 10/07/2013 Route name : Cosmo Arête Length/grade/stars : 12m S0 F5 1 star Climbers : Steve Quinton Start location: From 10m east of the ‘Hard Rioja’ descent, Climb down diagonally eastwards to high tide level, traverse across a tricky (F6a) groove (calm sea req.) to starting ledge. (This is part of approach to Cosmic Cavern)Pitch descriptions: 12m S0 F5 Climb the blunt arête, just left of flowstone wall, on excellent holds to a solid finish. |
| Submitted by : Steve Quinton Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Chance Encounter Zawn Cosmic Cliff Date of ascent : 10/07/2013 Route name : Cosmic Arrête Length/grade/stars : 14m S0 F6b 2 stars Climbers : Steve Quinton Start location: As for ‘Cosmo Arête’, traverse in from east of the ‘Hard Rioja’ descent, cross the awkward groove then continue for 9m to an obvious crystalline ‘ladder rung’ just before a weird cave (approx. 15m before the ‘Cosmic Cavern’ Cave).Pitch descriptions: Climb the overhanging knobbly arête via positive holds to a spectacular finish. |
| Submitted by : Steve Quinton << Comment Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Raming Pillars Route name : Garden Party Comment: Repeated – confirm grade E3 5c but high in grade. DEFINTIELY 3 STARS – outstanding climbing on great rock with cool moves in great position. |
| Submitted by : Martin Whitaker << Comment Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Fisherman’s Point Route name : Chocolate Brownies Comment: This route had been climbed, and dubbed “Dollop Arête” (Diff), by Martin Whitaker and Pat Cocks, on 7th June 2005. However, Chocolate Brownies is a much tastier name, so happy to keep that. However, having re-climbed it on 17-07-13, it is not Severe, 4a. V.Diff at most. |
| Submitted by : Martin Whitaker Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Fisherman’s Point Date of ascent : 17/07/2013 Route name : Peppermint Creams Length/grade/stars : 12m V. Diff. Climbers : Martin Whitaker, Pat Cocks Pitch descriptions: Climbs the slab between “Chocolate Brownies” and “Rain Falls, Tide Rises”, using “peppermint creams” to pass the smooth section. |
| Submitted by : Martin Whitaker Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Fisherman’s Point Date of ascent : 17/07/2013 Route name : Laughing Mice Length/grade/stars : 10m V.Diff Climbers : Martin Whitaker, Pat Cocks Start location: Start from the left end of the high-tide ledges.Pitch descriptions: Climbs the left edge of the main slab, left of “Pollock”. |
| Submitted by : Martin Whitaker Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Fisherman’s Point Date of ascent : 17/07/2013 Route name : Sun Fish Length/grade/stars : 10m HS 4b Climbers : Martin Whitaker, unseconded Start location: Start from the high tide ledgesPitch descriptions: Climbs the main slab between “Sea Bass” and “Whiting”, following a sinuous crackline. |
| Submitted by : Steve Quinton Area : Pembroke – Stackpole & Lydstep Crag : Perfect Pitch Zawn Date of ascent : 19/06/2013 Route name : Tuning Up Length/grade/stars : 16m E3 Climbers : Steve Quinton, Robin Neath Start location: Scramble down right side of cliff. Start at foot of short groove 5m right of Perfect Pitch.Pitch descriptions: 16m 5c Climb a slight crack then continue on edges past a small but conspicuous block hold at 34 height. |
| Submitted by : Ian Parsons Crag : Becks Bay Date of ascent : 6 May 2009 Route name : Whetstone Whistle Length/grade/stars : 80ft / E2 5b Climbers : Ian Parsons, Ted Rogers Start location: At the western end of Becks Bay is a zawn/gully, usually equipped with a fixed fisherman’s access rope. The east wall of this zawn – left, looking out – houses two large, right-facing corners; the left-hand of these is Dismorphic Corner, the right-hand was inaccurately described as the general location of Dhrystone Wall (which is actually further right). Whetstone Whistle starts at the base of this right-hand corner, on its immediate right wall.Pitch descriptions: Climb up to a ledge below a dodgy flake; at this point various thread runners can be placed by reaching up left into the bowels of the corner(/chimney). Step right onto the wall and climb up, skirting the right side of the flake, to a small overlap; pulling over the right end of this leads to the thread on Dhrystone Wall, up which the route finishes.Additional info: This route was not included in the 2012 guidebook, possibly because the description therein for Dhrystone Wall doesn’t really allow space for another route to its left. When Dhrystone Wall is accurately located, however, a suitable gap appears. The route length given for Whetstone Whistle, 80ft, is this same as that given in the original description for Dhrystone Wall (May Cottage log); they both ascend the same height of cliff. The guidebook length for DW, 35m, is presumably what is required to reach the stake cluster at the top of Crash; WW should possibly be recorded likewise. |
| Submitted by : Ian Parsons Crag : Becks Bay Date of ascent : 4 October 1997 Route name : Dhrystone Wall Length/grade/stars : 80ft (35m to clifftop stakes) / E2 5b Climbers : Dave Scott-Maxwell, Alec Erskine Start location: Under the wall some distance to the right of this route’s guidebook location. Pitch descriptions: The guidebook description for this route is: “The right-hand corner, also using its right wall.” In fact it starts probably about 25ft right of the corner, a few feet right of the fall-line from an in-situ thread at just above half-height; it doesn’t go anywhere near the corner (which looks like death on a stick)!Here’s the original description: Climb the initial wall to a jug at 20ft. Climb up and slightly left then straight up the wall on orange rock. Head slightly leftwards to a shallow groove and small roof via an in-situ thread. Climb around the right-hand side of the roof to finish. The whole of the route is marginally protected (small wires) and the top 1/3 a bit loose.Additional info: I fact the top 1/3 didn’t seem too bad; this is probably the most solid bit of Whetstone Whistle, which joins Dhrystone Wall at the thread. |
| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Crag : Becks Point Date of ascent : 20/04/14 Route name : Gravity Length/grade/stars : HS 4a Climbers : N Barry, G Clooney (both solo) Start location: As for Little SpacewalkPitch descriptions: Climbs the new corner vacated by Little SpacewalkAdditional info: Little spacewalk, Oh for the .. and its Direct Start have fallen down |
| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Crag : Becks Point Date of ascent : 20/04/14 Route name : On top of the Dove Length/grade/stars : 13m HVS 5a Climbers : T Rodford, N Barry Start location: As for The DovePitch descriptions: Start as for The Dove, but petite climbers who can’t do the big step left have to climb straight up the slab on small holds, just left of the descent gully. |
| Submitted by : Simon King Crag : Giltar Point area – Hidden Slabs Date of ascent : 28/05/14 Route name : Super Slab (low tide start) Length/grade/stars : 25m S 2* Climbers : Simon, Jo, Ellie (7) & Jessie (6) King Start location: Abseil down SS at low tide, past the pedestal to the beach. Start at the crack which runs up the right side of the pedestal.Pitch descriptions: Climb the crack to the right of the pedestal to join SS.Additional info: Only another 4 meters of climbing but improves on the original route. |
| Submitted by : Pete Johnson Crag : Mowing Word Date of ascent : 12/08/2013 Route name : Length/grade/stars : 120m E2 ***The Crossing Climbers : >P Donnithorne, P Johnson (Alts) Start location: An extremely enjoyable right to left traverse along the perfect hand crack 3 metres below the Heart of Darkness traverse. Start as for that route.Pitch descriptions:
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 Submitted by : Steve QuintonCrag : Skomar Towers East Face Date of ascent : 14/08/15 Route name : La Musee des Mineraux Length/grade/stars : 30m E4 5c * Climbers : Steve Quinton, Justin Lowman Start location: Start below the centre of the wall, 6m left of Abracadabra.Pitch descriptions: Climb a vague groove (peg and zero 4 cam) then move left at 12m to follow crystalline pockets past 2 poor threads to gain a hidden friend 1 slot high on the left. Finish rightwards taking care with the rock at the top. New stake belay well back up slope. |
| Submitted by : Steve Quinton Crag : Skomar Towers East Face Date of ascent : 14/08/15 Route name : Emergency Entrance Length/grade/stars : 31m E4 5c Climbers : Steve Quinton, Justin Lowman Start location: Start at the left side of the wall, left of Abracadabra, below a short groove.Pitch descriptions: Climb the groove to gain a thread at 10m then move up another 4m and trend boldly right to join La Maison des Minéraux below the threads. Finish up this. |
| Submitted by : Steve Quinton Crag : Gun Cliff Date of ascent : 18/10/14 Route name : Guns and Roses Length/grade/stars : 17m E3 5c Climbers : Robin Neath, Steve Quinton Start location: Start immediately left of the arête to the right of ‘Slick Pistol’ Pitch descriptions: Follow the vague crackline just left of the arête to just below final break (4m below top). Traverse wildly right to gain a ledge below an open corner (rock fall site). Finish up the corner past a peg. |
 Submitted by : Steve QuintonCrag : Gun Cliff Date of ascent : 11/04/15 Route name : Bulletproof Length/grade/stars : 15m E4 6a ** Climbers : Steve Quinton Start location: Start just left of the arête to the right of Slick Pistol etc. Pitch descriptions: Climb a vague crack line to the left of the arête to the final break from where hard moves lead up the left side of arête. (The direct finish to Guns and Roses). |
| Submitted by : Dave Ferguson Crag : Skomar Towers East Face Date of ascent : 28/08/15 Route name : Skomar Octavia Length/grade/stars : 30m HVS 5a Climbers : Dave Ferguson, Tony Morley Start location: Climbs the wall between Skomar Corner and Clover Chimney, start at a shallow corner. Good rock throughout.Pitch descriptions: Climb the corner to gain twin cracks that provide a steep move at mid height, finish more easily. |
| Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau Crag: Blind Bay, Slab Buttress Date of ascent: 20/03/16 Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Henry Castle GethinLength/grade/stars: 18m HS 4b Start location:Start a couple of metres to the left of Stranger in a Strange Land. Pitch descriptions:Climb the crack system past a ledge and a wider slot near the top. Additional info:Done onsight. Enter the Jaws of BoglossLength/grade/stars: 25m HVS 5a Start location:Start to the right of the foot of descent chimney. Pitch descriptions:
Additional info:Route was climbed on sight. |
| Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau Crag: Slab Buttress, Blind Bay Bugloss LeftDate of ascent: 25/03/16 Start location:Start a couple of metres to the left of Bugloss at the wide crack with a large block wedged in it. Pitch descriptions:Climb the crack to the large wedged block. Now span right to the arête and move into the Bugloss corner. Continue up Bugloss. Additional info:Route was inspected and practiced on abseil, then soloed. |
 Eye of Bugloss Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau Eye of BuglossDate of ascent: 01/04/2016 Start location:Several metres round to the right of Bugloss under a black groove to the left of the small zawn. Pitch descriptions:After a steep barnacle start climb the black groove using the arête on the right. Where the groove steepens exit left onto the exposed hanging slab. Climb this then follow easy but loose rock to the first pitch belay of Bugloss. Additional info:Route was inspected and cleaned on abseil then after a botched solo attempt I returned with Kelvin for the lead. Approached via abseil because of a rough sea. |
| Submitted by: Tim Skinner Crag: Mowing Word East Face Straight And NarrowDate of ascent: 29/04/2016 Start location:Starts 2m left of Corner Climb. Pitch descriptions:Climb up to a large ledge, then take the arête above on its left to a second ledge. Step onto the upper wall from the right and follow cracks up the centre to the top. Additional info:A direct line between Pilgrim’s Chorus and Corner Climb. Repeated on the same day by Rob Mazinke and Sarah Goodman. |
| Submitted by: Colin Knowles Crag: The White Tower Sea Groove DirectDate of ascent: 06/05/16 Start location:Cross the platform to the very eastern end, descend a barnacly groove for a metre before stepping onto a platform and climb up left easily to a large belay platform. Pitch descriptions:Climb the groove to the top, passing the belay ledge of Sea Groove after 10m. Additional info:Essentially this is the ‘real’ Sea Groove, with the 4c start in Vol5 of the guide a variant start! Could well have been climbed before, but at VS 4b this version is a good intro to seacliff climbing and so deserves to be recorded. |
| Submitted by: Martin Sobczak Crag: Fortbilden Haven Right Hand Wall SturzflugDate of ascent: 20/05/2016 Start location:The big corner right of The Run Pitch descriptions:Start on the right in the corner. Chimney up with some spectacular technics to a block with a thread. Swing left to a squeezed stone and move up after placing protection the finish as for The Runs. Additional info:The whole area has changed after a rockfall. Some of the climbs are gone. |
| Submitted by: Nick Eaton Crag: Lone Buttress Fifty ChoughsDate of ascent: 07/08/2016 Start location:5m left of the cave on Twin Arête is a crazed cracked slab. Start beneath the middle of this on the non-tidal ledge. Pitch descriptions:Climb the centre of the cracked slab to its apex where it joins the finish of Twin Arête. Additional info:Pleasantly non-tidal, the occasional vegetation does not detract from the route. Lone Buttress seems to be popular with coughs. |
| Submitted by: Tom Rogers Crag: Disco Buttress MoonwalkerDate of ascent: 28/3/16 Start location:Crag not in guide books. Topo Can be found via Climb Pembroke. Looking at land from sea the crag is to the left (west) of Mother Carey’s Kitchen. To the R/H side of the crag is a square sided pilar/Butress with a step right in its steep clean but featured front face. It’s right arête has another step right in it, while it’s left hand arête tends to the right also. Scramble down a corner to its base. Pitch descriptions:Climb the lower wall starting from its R/H arête at its base. When you reach a small ledge to your left and a small capping roof to your right, continue up the left hand arête above them curving to its end and ledge belay. Anchors found up the slope above. |
 No Man’s Land Submitted by: Simon Laker No Man’s LandDate of ascent: 16/04/17 Start location:Start as for Arête and Groove Pitch descriptions:Climb to the first break. Hand traverse under the overhang for 5m to reach a ramp running back up to the left. Climb the ramp to the ledge of Arête and Groove. Climb the crack on the right to a steep head wall. Climb this headwall on sharp jugs gently trending right and finish at an embedded flake just left of the finish of La Militaire Additional info:Climbed instead of Arête and Groove as the rib on this route looked much harder than Severe – possibly something fallen off it? No Man’s Land essentially takes the wall between Arête and Groove and La Militaire. Rock is generally good. The grade reflects the minimal gear needed to avoid excessive rope drag on the traverse and back up the ramp. Crux is the steep move on the final head wall which does have good gear. |
| Comment Submitted by : Steve Quinton Crag : Mowing Word Date : 01/07/17 Route name : Second Intiation and Re-initiation CommentA huge sideways block has fallen out of the break about 7m up these routes. This has created a new overhang making Second initiation a lot harder and bolder – probably E3? We backed off. Re-Initiation has got a different overhang which might be still E1 but rock could be suspect. This also affects Odour Shave Combo. |
| Submitted by: Jules Lane Crag: Mowing Word The Darkness BeckonsDate of ascent: 27/08/2017 Start location:Start at a steep blocky corner forming an arete approximately 20m left of The Beak (looking in). Pitch descriptions:Climb the corner to large ledges on the arête. Go left and follow the break all the way around the bay. This is easy to start with and gets progressively more tricky. The last section is awkward, with high footholds leading to a good ledge which is the half way belay for The Curver. Handholds are excellent throughout but gear is hard to place with lots of large cams your best bet. Finish by climbing out on The Curver, Nijinsky or Cormorant Flake. Additional info:Line of the route could no doubt be continued across the corner of Cormorant Flake, eventually joining Heart of Darkness. |
| Comment Submitted by : Stephen Reid Craeg : Fisherman’s Point Date : 14/10/2017 Route name : Laughing Mice and Sun Fish CommentRepeated both these not knowing what they were and thought both V Diff and worth a star at the time. I guess Sun Fish could be MS, but not HS. |
 Updated topo Comment Submitted by : Stephen Reid CommentThis route is incorrectly shown in the CC selected guide. It is obvious from the description it should be shown starting from the lower right-hand cave. If you start from the upper left-hand cave you have to make an awkward drop down and traverse right not mentioned in the description. In addition, the lines of the upper parts of The Cracks and of Threadneedle Street appear to be wrong. Plus the pitch grades are also out. I would redescribe the route:
*Doing pitch 1 this way gives you a much better stance where you can see your second on pitch 1 and the second can see the leader on pitch 2 – and the belay is more secure. **There is no need for the standing on the block stuff on pitch 2 – in fact this pitch barely warrants 4a, spectacular though it is. ***There are several cracks up this wall and you could probably finish up any of them at a similar grade but this seems the correct way from the description. |
Mowingword > West Face > Cormorant Flake AreaTricks and Treats25m E2 5c ☆ Comment by Steve QuintonTricks and Treats (submitted 29th Oct.) is actually ‘Rose in Bloom’, E3 5c, recorded in Dave Viggar’s Pembroke supplement but it did not make it into the latest guide. (I’m blaming Alun Richardson who was on both first ascents!)
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Mother Carey’s KitchenRoute Comment: Herod01-Jan-1970, |
Range Boundary Crags > Fence WallsMaximus Molimentum35m E4 6a ☆☆☆ |
Range Boundary Crags > Fence WallsSocial Distance24m E3 5c ☆ |
The White TowerThe Average White Band35m E5 6b ☆ |
Lydstep Cavern Promontory Area > Perfect Pitch ZawnAllegro15m HS 4a |
Lydstep Cavern Promontory Area > Perfect Pitch ZawnAccelerato17m HVS 4c |
Lydstep Cavern Promontory Area > Perfect Pitch ZawnPitch Fork17m E3 5c |
Penally East > Giltar Point Area > Hidden SlabsAbove the Fold23m HS 4b ☆ Takes the obvious left trending break on the right wall of Red Slab. Start by climbing the arete to the right of the cave and make an awkward step round onto the wall above Red Slab. Follow the left trending break to nut belays at the top. Good rock and protection. |
Penally East > Marble SlabsBridge of Sighs35m D ☆ Marble Slabs area (pages 378/9) The abseil described for Quartz leads to a convenient niche just above high tide level, and just to the left of the blowhole. Bridge of Sighs 35m Diff From the niche climb straight up the slab to reach the lip of the blowhole. Step right and cross the Bridge to reach the top of the easy ramp. Continue up the edge of the blowhole to reach easy ground. First Ascent – Martin Whitaker (solo) 09-08-2022. |
Penally East > Marble SlabsWell Boiled Icicle35m VD ☆ Marble Slabs area (pages 378/9) The abseil described for Quartz leads to a convenient niche just above high tide level, and just to the left of the blowhole. Well Boiled Icicle 35m VDiff From the niche, step down slightly to the right and cross the lower rock bridge. A few steep moves lead up to a ledge, and a smooth slab split by a crack that curves over to the right. Climb this to the ramp (possible belay). Climb the subsidiary slab, then the smooth one above, past some natural threads, to easy ground. First Ascent – Martin Whitaker & Pat Cocks 09-08-2022. |
Penally East > Marble SlabsSpooner’s Slab35m VD ☆ |
Penally East > Marble SlabsWell Boiled Icicle35m VD ☆ |
Penally West > Fisherman’s PointRoute Comment: Peppermint Creams, Laughing Mice & Sun Fish.01-Jan-1970, |
Penally East > Marble SlabsBridge of Sighs
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Chance Encounter ZawnPeppery Sagarillo20m S |
Blind BayLeft Right Left15m E1 5b ☆ |
Penally West > Becks Bay (Frank’s Shore) > FinlandTikka Bhuna Shandy10m F6c ☆☆ |
