New Routes – Ogwen

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Spring Sun

12 m, VS, 1 star
10-Apr-2010, Denise Forster, Simon Needham
Start left of the corner of Jack Horner and right of the slabby tower is a short, square cracked wall rising from a large flat ledge. Start at a crack near the right edge of this.

12m 4c5a Climb the crack to narrow ledges then step left to the thin crack system. Ascend this with interest, to finish over a capping block. Belay here, then scramble off to finish. A more direct start and a left hand finish via another crack are also possible.

Additional info:
On sight. some gardening by the second !

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Bednobs

12m S
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Shed’s Arete below a knobbly rib.

Gain the rib from the right and follow it and its continuation to the top.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Trampled Slab

27m VD
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Matt’s Pad.

Climb up left and follow a short corner and the left edge of the slab; before moving right and up to gain the large ledge. Gain the upper slab from the left and follow it to a finish up the inset slab on the left.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Padding Pool

28m VD
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres down and right of Matt’s Pad.

Climb a short wall and a brown rib above and right; then direct up the slab to reach the large ledge. Finish up the slab between the twin cracks.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Haul Up Front

10m S
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the top of Ejectamenta.

4b Bridge the gully and use a good hold on the left rib to gain the arete. Climb the slab just left to the top.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Slab Tramp

17m VD
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Bistromaths, below a vegetated gully.

Climb straight up the clean streak in the slab on the left.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Gwyn Rib

4m S
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start below Ejectamenta are a series of boulders (well seen on p 31). Start at the foot of the right rib of the fine, well-marked wall (on the upper set of boulders), facing down towards the Nant Gwnant.

4b Climb the rib. The rough groove immeditely right gives Gruff (4m S 4b 11.06.10).

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig Yr Haul

Spring Chicken

6m VS
11-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Gruff.

4c A bridging start gains the undercut slab on the right; which is followed with some trepidation.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Addawol

35m S
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The main feature of the lower buttresses is a pink slab with two heather stripes. 100 metres left of this slab are three slabby walls. The left-hand slab is protected by a steep wall both at the bottom and the top. Start at the left end of the steep wall below the slab.

Climb a short fingery wall; step right and follow the left side of the slab to gain a ledge. Follow a slab up leftwards and continue up the rounded ribs above; finishing with pleasure up the final steeper rib.

Additional info:
The name means “promising”.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Atal

12m VS
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Addawol below the right end of the steep wall.

4c Make steep pulls up the right end of the steep wall using the obvious flake holds to gain the slab. Follow this more easily to below the upper steep wall. Escape leftwards down the heather.

Additional info:
The name means “to hinder”.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Sol Slab

33m VS
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Atal below a pocketed slab.

4b Climb the pocketed slab and the easy-angled slabs above to gain the steepening. Make a tricky move through the steepening immediately left of an unhelpful thin crack; and follow the slabs to the top.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Sol Trap

31m VS
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Sol Slab.

4c Wander up the easy-angled slabs to reach the steepening at a pointed flake. Stand on the flake and pull over rightwards; move up and finish up the rounded rib above and slightly left. A serious pitch!

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Byrfyfyr

11m S
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the right end of a half-height heather terrace on the right-hand slabby wall; below a thin crack, 17 metres up and right of Sol Trap.

Climb the thin crack and trend rightwards up the slab to finish. The scooped slab at the left end of this slabby wall is taken by Dim Anodd (12m Mod 030710); which can be used as a descent with care.

Additional info:
The names mean “impromptu” and “not hard”!

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Plinko

24m VD
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres right of Byrfyfyr is the pink slab itself. Start 6 metres down and left of the pink slab at a more white-coloured slab.

Climb the white slab and the brown slab above; until moves up a quartz gangway on the left gain belays on a rouded rib. Escape down the heather on the left!

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Pink Un

23m VD
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres up and right of Plinko on the pink slab and just left of the left-hand heather stripe. Descent: traverse right (looking in) and go down the heather.

Climb the slab trending rightwards and pull through the steepening. Continue up the upper slab and move right to gain flake belays on a terrace.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29

Pink Two

22m VD
03-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Pink Un, between the two heather stripes.

Climb the slab and pull through the steepening on the right. Continue up the upper slab to the flake belays on the right.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Craig Rhug Bach p 46

Zit Alors

10m HS
28-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of the slab of Cusquena from the terrace.

4b Step right off a block and climb a rib to reach a wide crack with a steep wall to its right. Move up and climb the steep wall rightwards utilizing the pockets.

Additional info:
There are two look-alike crags in this vicinity; all the routes are on the upper one!

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Craig Rhug Bach p 46

Big Heather

10m VD
28-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start5 metres right of Zit Alors.

Follow the flaky rib defining the right end of the crag.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Creigiau’r Gelli p 46

40 Days

10m VS
30-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 300 metres right of and at the same level of The Temptation of St Julitta, is a deceptively steep, rounded buttress, with a huge heather-covered ramp up to its left (GR 717 586). The main features are a slanting V-groove on its left-hand side; and a right to left rising gorse-filled rake. Start at the bottom right end of the rake.

4c Climb the steep white wall to a shelf and finish direct.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Creigiau’r Gelli p 46

And Nights

10m VS
30-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one and a half metres left of 40 Days.

4b Gain the rake and follow the pockets up to a higher break. Finish up the blunt rib above and slightly right. Another bold climb!

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Creigiau’r Gelli p 46

Amble

10m M
30-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres left of And Nights a slabby arete rises behind a large silver birch tree; start here.

Scramble up the arête.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Creigiau’r Gelli p 46

Baptist Wall

6m VS
30-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres right of the top of Amble is an attractive short wall; start here.

4b Climb the wall on pockets and edges.

Dyffryn Mymbyr > Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr > Creigiau’r Gelli p 46

Awyr Las

9m S
30-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres above Baptist Wall is a tiered slab with a wide crack towards its right-hand end. Start just left of the wide crack.

Climb the excellent slabby wall to a ledge; and finish with more pocket-pulling.

Additional info:
The name means “blue sky”!

Gallt yr Ogof > The Eastern Cliffs > Skyline Buttress Area

Shockwave

20m E6 6a,
25-Jun-2010, Nick Bullock, Dan Gibson.
Start approach as for the Afterburner wall on the skyline in the Ogwen valley.

20m. E6,6a. Start directly beneath the obvious right facing cornercave and the shark fin flake. This is between the start of Afterburner and Aftershock. Burl up into the cave where a headbody jam relieves the worrying burn already eminating in you’re arms. Lean out of the cave and with the use of a crafty knee-bar, pinch the Shark-fin flake and move quickly to good holds at the top. Poor protection is arranged before meaty moves on big holds, and techy moves on little holds lead to a shallow left facing corner beneath a small roof. Protection is available although it is not the best. Big moves up into the crack system directly above give good protection before an arm melting sequence on layaways lead the lucky to a brilliant flake sytem on left for a few moves before the final pull for the top of the crag.

Additional info:
No fixed gear. RP’s and a skyhook may ease passage. Climbed ground up after abseil inspection and a clean.

Top: Nick on crux of Sonic Boom
Bottom: Nick on upper arête © Nick Bull

Gallt yr Ogof > The Eastern Cliffs > Skyline Buttress Area

Sonic Boom

25 m E5 6a.
27-Jun-2010, Nick Bullock, Dan Gibson, Libby Peter
Start: Approach as for the description in the Ogwen Guide for the Mission Impossible Heart of Stone Wall. The route starts to the left of the Mission Impossible Wall at the super steep, juggy, lowest section of the crag reminiscent of Scimitar Ridge, directly beneath the flying arête which is obvious from the path on the left of the Mission Impossible Wall.

25 metre. E5 6a. Super steep start on massive holds directly beneath the overhanging arête. Good holds and good gear lead easily up to a no-hands rest on the right of the flying arête. Arrange bomb-proof protection while contemplating the wild position you are about to launch. Using the obvious massive flat foothold cut into the base of the arête, step out and using holds on either side of the arête climb it directly up the front for a few moves until a high rockover to small holds on the left give sanctuary. Unfortunately gear is not yet forthcoming and a few worrying arête moves back right lead to a grovel onto big sloping ledge and gear. Here we go again, wildly swing right to layaways on the upper arête which is followed all the way, via some gear and some resting ledges, on the right to the top.

Additional info:
A pretty amazing climb (if i say so myself) slightly reminiscent of other big mountain routes like The Axe, or the Great Arête. (ok, so maybe not as good!) Marred only by the very escapable top section of the arête. For the full effect climb the right of the arête all the way.

Libby seconding Heatwave © Nick Bullock

Gallt yr Ogof > The Eastern Cliffs > Skyline Buttress Area

Heatwave

18m HVS 5b
27-Jun-2010, Dan Gibson, Libby Peter, Nick Bullock
Start as for the Mission Impossible Heart of Stone Wall described in the new Ogwen Guidebook. On the left side of the Mission Impossible Wall is a wall split by a left to right crack. This wall faces at a 90 degree angle to the Mission Impossible Wall and has the very striking flying arête for its upper crest. The climb is approched by a step on the left of the Mission Impossible Wall.

18 metre. HVS 5b. Climb the crack on good holds and with good gear in the crack and on either side.

Additional info:
Climbed and cleaned on sight by Dan Gibson

Gallt yr Ogof > below Craig y Gelynen

Beavering in Obscurity

60 MVD
Jun-2011, David Peers, Hugh Walton
Start a more interesting approach to Craig y Gelynen compared with the gully approach as described in the guidebook. When combined with a route on Craig y Gelynen it makes a good mountaineering day.

1. 30m Start at the lowest point of the buttress at the obvious clean slab. Climb the slab trending left towards the obvious heather break,, Climb up to the next heather ledge and on to the ledge to belay on the right of the bottom of the obvious corner.
2. 30m Climb the slab on the r of the corner ( possible belay on the left at the top of the corner). Carry on up the clean slab until scrambling remains to reach the break below the upper buttress.

Gallt yr Ogof > The Eastern Cliffs > Red Slab (p 56)

Rougemont

18m HVS
30-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Red Slab.

4c Climb directly up the slab to gain a tiny ledge at 9 metres below a blank steepening. Traverse 2 metres left and follow a grey streak to reach a block just below the small heather ledge on Red Slab; and finish as for that climb. Superb, but unprotected!

Gallt yr Ogof > The Eastern Cliffs > Red Slab (p 56)

Cadillac

32m HS
30-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Red Slab.

4b Climb directly up the slab to a ledge at 6 metres. Move up to a higher ledge and step right for 2 metres; before climbing a crisp slab to reach the top wall. Move right again for 2 metres to climb the grey wall via the two spikes and pull through the heather cornice on its right-hand side.

Additional info:
This is a really good unusual slabby spot and only 20 mins from Helyg; it’s a shame about the heather though! However some kind person has removed the heather from the LH section of slab, revealing lots of holds and protection–so this may affect the descriptions in this area!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Ptolemy

16m S
07-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 120 metres above Nemesis is the final buttress of the group. It is divided into two tiers by a heathery rake, from which protrude a profusion of horizontal rock spikes. Start at the right-hand end of the buttress below a scooped rib, guarded by a bulge.

4b Pull over the bulge on its right side and follow the scoop in the rib to a ledge. Climb the crack above and its wider continuation, before finishing up a slab.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Pela

15m S
07-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Ptolemy.

Climb an awkward block forming a spike and continue to the ledge. Follow the pleasant slab, between the cracks to the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan p 85

The 39 Dimples

11m VS
16-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 50 metres higher than Tryfan Bychan on the same scarp is a steeper slab. This time the cracks are more thinly spread and the routes, despite their modest size are tenuous! The main feature is a right-slanting grassy crack towards the left side of the slab. Start here.

4c Step left and follow the slab to reach better holds in the thin crack, which leads to the top. The right-slanting grassy crack is John Bychan (11m S 16.08.10)

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan p 85

Chime Crack

10m VS
16-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of The 39 Dimples at a thin, right-slanting crack.

5a Climb the crack with interest.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan p 85

Tweedsmuir

8m S
16-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Chime Crack below a small square niche at 2 metres.

Gain the niche and finish up the inset slab above.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Idomeneo

14m VS
31-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Ptolemy.

5a Make a stiff pull over the left side of the bulge and continue up the right side of the rib to a ledge. Finish up the thin crack in the arête above and left; nicely exposed.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

The Midas Touch

14m VS
31-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Pela at a striaited wall.

4c Climb the wall to a large grass ledge. Finish up the seam, slightly leftwards in the next wall.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Cresus

15m VS
31-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of The Midas Touch.

4c Climb the rib; then follow the thin crack in the upper wall. Another pitch guaranteed to keep you on your toes!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

The Hippo

9m VS
31-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres below Idomeneo is a rocky hump with an undercut slabby front face. Start at the left corner of the slabby face.

4c Pull over onto the slab; and follow the pockets up to finish.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Mesopotamia

8m HS
31-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 90 metres above and right of Terrestrial Variation, an attractive arete protrudes from the broken walls.

4a Climb the arête.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Persepolis

20m VS
25-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Pony, across the gully on the right flank of a broad, rounded rib.

4b Make a finger traverse leftwards from just above the base of the gully, and follow the front face of the rib to reach a terrace. Climb the fine, thin crack above to finish on its left arête and so gain easier ground.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75

Goat Track

23m VD
25-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of Persepolis.

Climb the left-slanting brown slab, and the slab above and right to reach a roof; which is overcome pleasantly on its right. Continue up ledgy slabs and through an overlap to the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)

Hudol

15m HS
06-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Fifteen metres above and right of A5 is a pleasant unpolished buttress. Just left of its central heathery break are twin, slim smooth grooves; start below these.

4b Climb a slab, and continue up the grooves, mainly using the right-hand one, to a finish up the slab.

Additional info:
The name means “enchanting”!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)

Hwb

11m VS
06-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Hudol at a roofed recess.

4c Gain the recess and pull through the roof, continue up the thin cracks to gain a sloping ledge on the left. Climb the delectable headwall just left of the thin crack.

Additional info:
The name means “push”!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)

Gwyntog

9m VD
06-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Hwb.

Climb the blocks and finish up the arête on the right.

Additional info:
The name means “windy”!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach > The North Wall (p 82)

Geeky Gangway

10m S
10-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Nerd Corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Start up Nerd Corner, move up then left onto the slim gangway. Follow this pleasantly to reach the descent corner.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach > The West Slab (p 85)

Fllech

45m S
10-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Zig-Zag, on a higher ledge.

1. 23m Climb the white-flecked slab to the left end of the overlap. Continue up the rib and the small slab above to a stance.
2. 22m Move left to a boss-like foothold, and climb the smooth slab above and right. Continue to the top, keeping left of the easy arete.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach > The West Slab (p 85)

In Tents

22m HS
10-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Fllech.

4b Climb the rather intense (for Little Tryfan!) bald slab via the offset, micro-thin cracks to reach the right end of the overlap. Pull over and follow the right side of the slab to reach heather and the descent path.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach (p 82)

Noodle

8m S
27-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: One hundred and thirty metres above and right of the main slabs, and just opposite where the path veers rightwards towards the gully used on the approach to Heather Terrace; is a steep little slab riven by thin, right-slanting cracks. Start at the left side of the slab, atop a subsidiary slab.

Climb the pleasant slab, finishing just to the left of the shallow crack.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach (p 82)

Nodular Slab

10m S
27-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Noodle.

Climb the slab, keeping immediately right of the thin, right-slanting crack. Near the top, the rib on the left of the crack gives a nice finish.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach (p 82)

Doodle

8m VD
27-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Fifteen metres LEFT of Noodle the slab system terminates at an easy-angled rib; start at its base.

Climb the rib to a small ledge, step right and finish up the right side of the rib.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach (p 82)

Nod and a Wink

10m HS
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one and a half metres right of Nodular Slab.

4a Climb the slab and follow the tufted cracks to the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach (p 82)

Nodal Range

9m VS
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Nod and a Wink.

4b Climb the blanker slab and follow the cracks above.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Florestan

12m S
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixty metres above Tweedsmuir on the same scarp (and 40 metres right of Nodular Slab) is a fine slabby buttress with a shallow circular recess near its top. Start on the left side of the buttress on top of a square flake.

Climb the slab and finish up the rounded ridge.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Leonore

9m VS
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Florestan.

5a Scratch up the slab and continue up the exciting upper section, keeping left of the circular recess.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Papageno

9m VS
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one and a half metres right of Leonore.

4b Gain and climb the short, brown, left-facing groove to the circular recess, and finish direct.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Calaf Crack

9m HS
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Papageno at a thin crack.

4a Climb the thin crack and groove above.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Scaramuccio

8m HVS
31-May-2011, BJ Claeke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Calaf Crack on a higher grass ledge.

5b Climb the slab for 3 metres, then pull leftwards across the heather-choked crack to gain a foothold below the bulge. Pull through the bulge at the flakes and continue nervously to the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Ferrando

11m VS
31-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Scaramuccio, at a slabby wall with a ledge at two-thirds height.

5a Climb the left side of the slabby wall and move right to gain the ledge. Step right for 2 metres, and climb the dainty upper slab.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Hooray for Hannay

10m HS
14-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of The 39 Dimples.

4b Climb the slab via the slots; until the judicious use of John Bychan gains the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

One Horse

12m VS
14-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Chime Crack at a thin crack.

4c Climb the thin crack until it fades. Continue boldly, then use holds in the vegetated crack to gain a more relaxed finish.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bychan (p 85)

Harris

9m VS
14-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Tweedsmuir.

4c Climb the slab, first right, then leftwards.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig Nant Bach (p 78)

Les Chamoisettes

15m S
15-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Two hundred and twenty metres SE of Craig Nant Bach, at a higher level and on the opposite side of the cwm and clearly seen; is a clean attractive buttress marked by a slabby nose (O S Ref 673 592). Start below and just left of the slabby nose.

Climb rightwards to the nose and follow it to the top. Fine climbing on a remarkable collection of slots, pockets and flakes!

Additional info:
Locating Craig Nant Bach is difficult; it is well hidden from the usual approaches! It rises directly from the main stream draining the cwm, and 60 metres right of the prominent dark, almost flat, slab in the bottom of the cwm.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig Nant Bach (p 78)

Eland

12m VS
15-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Les Chamoisettes.

4b Climb the central corner system to the small roof. Move right and finish up the arête.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig Nant Bach (p 78)

White Art

12m VS
15-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Eland.

4b Climb the pockets up the wall just right of the arête to a ledge and finish up the shallow corner.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig Nant Bach (p 78)

Gazelle

12m VS
15-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of White Art.

4a Climb the slender pillar, and make good use of the ramp on the left when the slots disappear.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig Nant Bach (p 78)

Antelope

15m HS
15-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and left of Gazelle at a grassy gully.

4a Climb the thin crack in the rib on the right to a small ledge. Follow the fine brown slab and the easier slab above.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig y Ffridd (p 70)

Putroon

12m VD
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty-five metres below and right of Essence is a less-steep buttress. Start towards its left side on top of a large block below an inset slab.

Climb the inset slab.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig y Ffridd (p 70)

Ariadne

17m HS
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Putroon below a fine-looking rouded arête.

4b Climb the face of a small buttress, then thread your way up the thin cracks running up the left flank of the rounded arête.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig y Ffridd (p 70)

Meadow King

17m S
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Ariadne.

4a Climb directly up the rounded arete, past a memorable mantleshelf move.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig y Ffridd (p 70)

Boro Hills

14m VD
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: One hundred metre left of Iron in the Soul at the same level, is a slabby buttress whose right edge forms an attractive rib just left of a rocky gully. Start below and left of this feature.

Climb the left side of a short wall, step right, and follow the rib to the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig y Ffridd (p 70)

Omnia

14m VD
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres above and left of Boro Hills below the main face of the slabby buttress.

Climb the centre of the slabby buttress, between the the two mossy cracks.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Craig y Ffridd (p 70)

Trajan

11m VS
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke
Start: Nine metres down and left of Omnia, is a short, steep wall. Start at its lowest point.

4c Trend up rightwards to gain the arete and finish up this. Rather unnerving on the slanting holds!

Additional info:
Craig y Ffridd is in fact below the N face of Foel Goch, just above the floor of the cwm at O S Ref 678 585. Similarly, Craig Nant yr Ogof is at O S Ref 675 584. This is a wonderful, wild, lonely cwm with many craglets. The rock is a kind of grainy gritstone!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Drws Nodded (p 79)

Pre-Raphaelite

15m S
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Sixty metres below and right of Drws Nodded is a grey buttress consisting of an attractive right-slanting rib. Start down and just right of this feature at a short wide crack.

Make a hard (5a) move up the wall immediately right of the wide crack; continue up for 2 metres, then step left to a ledge. Climb a short wall, then follow the pleasant right-slanting rib to the top.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Drws Nodded (p 79)

True to Nature

12m S
15-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 14 metres right of Pre-Raphaelite at a ridge.

Climb a crack and a groove with a slither spike to a ledge. Finish up the wrinkled wall on the right.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)

Medea

15m HVS
02-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: To the right of the long, broken middle section of the crag, a parallel scarp forms a high buttress (approximately 180 metres above and right of Olwthin). The left-hand side of the buttress has blank walls separated by heather breaks. Whilst the right-hand side has an attractive brown wall, topped by overhangs, facing Tryfan. Start halfway up the slope below the brown wall at a shallow, right-slanting ramp.

5a Gain the ramp, move up, then follow the thin cracks leftwards to the rib and finish up the wide crack.

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Braich y Ddeugwm > Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)

Templar

11m VS
02-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres up and right of Medea, on a block at the foot of a gully.

4c Step left along a shelf and pull around onto the left side of the arête. Finish up the fine arete.

Additional info:
Very good– but needs a Direct Start. Probably 5b/5c after a good brushing!

Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan > Tryfan Bach > The West Slab (p 82)

Surface Heat

50m S
28-Aug-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of the Variation Start to Crack 2.

Climb a flaky slab and make delicate moves past a tiny white groove with an overlap to gain a small triangular recess left of Crack 4. Step up rightwards, then launch directly up the slab, crossing the slanting cracklines, to reach the finishing ledges. Totally eliminate, but delectable; guaranteed to keep you on your toes!

The East Face of Tryfan > Central Buttress

Juxtaposed

40 m, HS, 1 star
08-Aug-2010, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start about half way between South Gully and the start of Overlapping Rib Route there is a long arete bounded on the right by a narrow groove. The climb is based on this arete. Start directly below it.

40m 4b Gain the slab which bounds the arete on the left by a delicate move to reach better holds, then move right to gain the arete. Climb this with interest past two low relief spikes, then step left to follow a crack (which avoids a jutting block) to a ledge left of a bulge in the arete. Pull rightwards over the bulge using a spike to regain the arete, and finish up a final narrow section to a ledge just left of Overlapping Rib Route etc. The section up the arete past the spikes can be avoided by the slab to it’s left, and this probably lowers the grade to S.

Additional info:
On sight. It seems improbable this hasn’t been climbed before, but there is no sign of any wear.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Buttress

The Gash Left Hand

28m Hard Severe
19-Jun-2012, Pat Littlejohn, Neal Ledger.
Start: Variation on Gash Crag – An elegant and nicely positioned pitch through The Gash (modern climbers may find it easier than the chimney!).

3a. 4b From the sloping stance in The Gash move to the left end of the overhang and climb a short tricky groove to a spike. Traverse right just above the lip of The Gash to the apex of the buttress then continue up cracks to the stance above pitch 4 of Gashed Crag.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Buttress

The Gash Right Hand

25m E2
19-Jun-2012, Pat Littlejohn, Neal Ledger.
Start: Variation on Gash Crag – Short but exciting.

3b. 5b Climb the chimney of Gashed Crag then immediately launch left across the wall via the obvious shelf to gain a sloping ledge around the arête. Continue more easily to the stance above pitch 4 of Gashed Crag.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Gully Area > South Gully Wall

Comment Submitted by Ian Parsons

Munich Climb

Comment:
Has anyone picked up on the apparent problem with the last sentence on page 382 in the Chronology section, referring to the first ascent of Munich Climb and the associated controversy? “…and, poignantly, Sedlmayr was to die attempting the Eiger North Face soon afterwards.” Knowing of no other fatality on the Eigerwand in the pre-war years involving a climber of that name or a similar one, I assume that this is a reference to the ill-fated attempt by Sedlmayer and Mehringer that ended at – and gave rise to – the “Death Bivouac”. Aside from the slight difference in the recorded surnames, which could be accidental, there are two things that suggest that these are not the same person; the “Munich” climber was H Sedlmayr while the one who died on the Eiger was Max Sedlmayer, and the latter’s demise with Karl Mehringer occurred in August 1935 – ie almost a year before Munich Climb first saw the light of day on July 1st, 1936. I note that the spelling used in Tony Moulam’s 1966 edition of “Tryfan and Glyder Fach” is Sedlmeyr; no idea which one is correct.

Topo (page 114) showing correct Pinnacle and Overlapping Rib Routes

The East Face of Tryfan > Central Buttress

Comment Submitted by : Graham Uney – 01-Aug-2015

Pinnacle Rib routes

Comment: There seems to be a bit of confusion about Overlapping Rib and Pinnacle Rib Routes. The description in the guide appears to be correct for each climb, but the crag photo on page 114 shows them the other way round. I’m sure Overlapping Rib Route is to the left near South Gully, whereas Pinnacle Rib Route is on the right near Little Gully?

Click to enlarge topo.

Climber: n/a, Photographer: Geoff Bennett

The East Face of Tryfan > South Gully Area > South Gully Wall

Don’t Mention the War

85m E1 5b ☆☆
14-Jul-2018, Derek Ryden & Geoff Bennett (AL)
Approached by scrambling up South Gully as if heading for Munich Climb, this steep looking wall gives delightful climbing on positive holds. The quality of the rock is excellent, whilst gear is more plentiful & better than appearances might suggest. Micro-wires & cams of all sizes will be useful.

Start 4m up & right of the start of Munich Climb at a small ledge below an overlap at the bottom of the slabby wall.

1. 28m 5a Step left around the overlap & climb boldly up, trending gently right, on positive holds to a discontinuous horizontal crack & gear. Continue gently rightwards up the central depression, passing a series of discontinuous vertical cracks which lead to the belay ledge with the perched block common to South Gully Wall. Super climbing.
2. 32m 5b Make a hard move off the perched block to reach a good crack. Continue up steeply but on good holds to a small grassy ledge. The wavy wall above leads to the arete but move right to a crack which is followed to a huge ledge.
3. 25m 5b Above you should be 3 short, steep, bands of rock, the skyline of which is Summit Wall with a prominent fin/nose and a U-shaped groove to its right: this is where you’re headed. Make steep moves up the first wall on good holds to a ledge. The second wall is also steep but similarly endowed. Bridge awkwardly up to the roof & an obvious crack. Pull over this to finish between the fin & the arete. This is the red line on the topos.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Gully Area > South Gully Wall

Appeasement

35m HVS 5a ☆
14-Jul-2018, Geoff Bennett & Derek Ryden
Start just above the huge block/rib that lies in the middle of South Gully, at a super horizontal cam/hex slot, just to the right of a white streak on the slab. The climb follows a series of grooves heading for the crack right of the obvious off-width above (South Gully Wall).

35m 5a Awkward & bold moves gain the slab & a good crack on the right. Follow a series of grooves to the finger crack, following this & a further series of grooves to emerge on the huge ledge. Belay on a stupendously large block.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Gully Area > South Gully Wall

……Or the Olympics!

26m HVS 4c
14-Jul-2018, Derek Ryden & Geoff Bennett
Start at a poor abseil station (the middle of 3) around a huge block lying against the wall, 7m above the previous route. This route follows the series of grooves above.

26m 4c Climb up leftwards into the groove system & follow it up & gently rightwards to a huge detached block. Pass this on its left side & follow more grooves until a junction with Appeasement which leads to the huge ledge & block.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Gully Area > South Gully Wall

Schwein Würst

50m E4 6a ☆
20-Jul-2018, Pete Johnson & Derek Ryden (AL)
Scramble up the first few metres of Munich Climb to where it turns left up the slab. Continue straight on for a further 3m to a sloping grass ledge with two large slanting grooves on the right.

1. 25m 5c Climb the left-hand groove for 8m. Move left at half height to a poor foot ledge then make a bold move up and left across the steep wall into a short mossy groove. Continue to belay on a large flat ledge below the overhanging corner.
2. 25m 6a Climb the corner to the capping overhang, then escape right into Munich Climb.

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Mines p94

No Wisdom

40m HS
17-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The bulk of Bastow Mines is broken; but its right-hand buttress, almost separated from the main mass by a steep grassy gully, is more continuous giving three interesting routes on rather unnerving, flaky rock. Start on the right side of the right-hand buttress at a grassy corner below a right-slanting heathery groove; and just left of a small pinnacle.

4b Climb the right-slanting groove, using its right rib in places to reach a sloping ledge below a steep headwall. Move 3 metres right and escape up a series of right-trending flake holds.

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Mines p94

King Solomon’s Crack

38m S
17-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of No Wisdom below a wide crack.

Climb the wide crack, and continue up the crackline to the top.

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Mines p94

Our Foolish Ways

25m VS
17-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres up and left of King Solomon’s Crack below a block at the left end of a line of small overhangs.

4a Step left and ascend a rib to gain the top of the block. Step right and climb the crack to reach a steep little wall. Up this, then follow the left-trending thin cracks to easier ground and the top. Good climbing on fascinating, “will it or won’t it” rock!

The East Face of Tryfan > Far South Peak p 124

Tywynnu

25m S
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Immediately North of the Far South Peak summit is a square buttress forming a companion summit. Its main feature is an attractive rib facing into Cwm Tryfan, with a striaited wall above and right. Start just right of this rib.

Climb a slanting groove leftwards to gain the rib; then continue up its left side. Where it eases at 17 metres, move right along the grass ledge and climb the left side of the striaited wall to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “to shine”

The East Face of Tryfan > Far South Peak p 124

Lean To

16m S
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: On the SW flank of the summit rocks is a large leaning pinnacle forming a groove on its left. This area is clearly seen on the front cover of the new guidebook! Start at the foot of the groove.

Gain the shelf below the groove by a strnuous pull and continue up the slabby right side of the groove to reach the top of the pinnacle. Finish up the arête above and left . Interesting and unusual.

The East Face of Tryfan > Far South Peak p 124

Retrogression

30m VS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 20 metres up and left of Progressive Cracks is a rectangular buttress enclosed by two heathery cracks, and with a square-cut roof on its right. There is also a small horizontal overlap at 4 metres. Start below this buttress on a ledge.

4b Climb the rectangular buttress left-to-right; serious; then follow a groove on the left to reach a ledge. Continue up a rib and finish up a thin crack immediately right of a mossy crack.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Gully Area > The South Gully Band

Munchkin One

11m S
09-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Edgekin Too.

Follow the shelves rightwards to the arête. Swing up left to a small ledge and climb the arête to the top. Very artificial and quite bold! The pleasant striaited wall 3 metres right of the arete gives Munchkin Two (6m VD 09.06.11).

The East Face of Tryfan > South Buttress

Clara Bow

22m VS
09-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Eight metres up and left of Arête Climb is a buttress with a crevasse forming its left side. Start at a short rib just right of the crevasse.

4b Climb the short rib, step left and follow the left side of the arete; before trending leftwards via a thin crack to gain a large ledge. Climb the rib on the right, then finish up a short brittle wall.

Additional info:
Exploration in this area has highlighted a couple of photo-topo howlers! On page 114, the photo has Overlapping Rib Route and Pinnacle Rib Route the wrong way round! On page 122, the routes Apex Route, Crackerjack and Gashed Crag are shown starting up a chossy buttress which is in fact below Heather Terrace. Whereas the routes all start from the Heather Terrace!

The East Face of Tryfan > Central Buttress (p 90)

Clarified

40m S
09-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Juxtaposed and 5 metres left of Overlapping Rib Route at a continuous ridge.

Climb up to a niche in the left side of the ridge. Step right and follow cracks in the crest to gain a sloping ledge. Follow the wide, shallow groove and rib above to a junction with Overlapping Rib Route.

The East Face of Tryfan > North Buttress (p 100)

Carillion

23m VS
04-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start immediately left of North Buttress Route below an attractive rib.

4b Climb past the letters “NB”, then follow the left side of the rib for 18 metres to a small roof. Step left, and make a high step up, before moving right to better holds. Climb the slab and wide crack above to join North Buttress Route. Neat and elegant, but with spaced protection!

The East Face of Tryfan > North Buttress (p 90)

Cymbeline

23m HS
20-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of Quarter Gully. Descent:- down Quarter Gully to the left (looking in).

4a Climb a wide crack on the right for 3 metres, step right and follow a shallow groove just left of the rib. Continue up the wide crack and the slab on its left to below the headwall. Finish up the centre of the headwall; fine and rather bold!

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Buttress

Columnar Grooves

30m VS
09-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres up Bastow Gully on a large ledge on the right with a low roof.

4b Gain a ledge up and left; then step boldly right to a thin crack. Move right again to reach the main crackline and welcome protection, follow this to a crevassed ledge. Move up right and follow the main groove line to a ledge. Climb rightwards to a wide crack in a groove. Move up, then escape rightwards to easier ground and the top.

The East Face of Tryfan > Central Buttress

Clarice Cliff

32m VS
23-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Pinnacle Rib Route. Descent:- Traverse right (looking in) to reach Little Gully.

4b Climb a shallow groove in the left flank of the rib to reach a short impending wall. Follow a ramp up left; before stepping left into a V-groove. Move up the V-groove to a small ledge; then boldly hand traverse rightwards along the break, before stepping up to gain the flying arete. Climb the left side of this, in a fine position, and continue up to reach the blocks atop p1 of Pinnacle Rib Route.

The East Face of Tryfan > Central Buttress

Clan Union

25m HS
23-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Pinnacle Rib Route.

4b Climb the short, sharp edge and the flake above. Continue up the rib with a final steep pull through the slight nose to reach the blocks atop p1 of Pinnacle Rib Route.

The East Face of Tryfan > Nor’ Nor’ Buttress

Clandestine

20m HVS
23-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Nor’ Nor’ Buttress, at a flake below a curving arete. Descent:- Traverse right (looking in) to gain Bastow Gully; care required!

4c Climb a short slab, then boldly follow the right side of the arête to reach a welcome spike. Finish up the delectable, delicate upper rib.

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Buttress

This Blasted Heath

30m VS
04-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start Twenty metres above and right of the leaning pillar forming a cave on Bastow Buttress (p 94) is a fine buttress; defined on its left by a steep gully with a large overhang. It can be quickly reached by scrambling up the short gully 5 metres right of the leaning pillar. Start 3 metres right of the steep gully at a shallow groove.

4b Pull into the shallow groove and follow the crack above to a roof. Swing rightwards onto the rib, and continue direct with delicacy and a degree of trepidation. Finish up the wide groove.

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Buttress

Basted

15m VD
04-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of This Blasted Heath on the far side of a gully below an attractive, brown slab. The gully may be descended utilizing its right wall (looking out); but beware the loose blocks!

Climb the pleasant brown slab, using the cracks in its left-hand side.

The East Face of Tryfan > Bastow Buttress

Clavichord

22m HS
04-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres right of Columnar Grooves on top of, and at the right-hand end of the large blocks. Descent:- down a sloping ramp leftwards (looking in), into Bastow Gully.

4b Pull up a short rib and climb a steep little wall rightwards onto the main rib. Follow this up to the base of a groove. Step up right onto the rib again and finish up its right-hand side.

The East Face of Tryfan > South Buttress

Clair de Lune

21m HS
04-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Crackerjack.

4b Climb the left side of the rib delicately, and move left onto the blocks below the sidewall. Make a steep pull up, then follow the left-hand crackline to the top. Contrived, but delectable!

The East Face of Tryfan > South Buttress

Clairvoyant

15m HVS
04-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of Clair de Lune, and 9 metres right of Arete Climb, below a beautiful slanting rib.

4c Climb the rib directly. Superb, but beware the perched block at the very top!

The East Face of Tryfan > North Buttress (p 90)

In Clover

20m S
12-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of North Buttress Route. Descent: by abseil or down-climbing leftwards (looking in); and down the right side of North Gully.

4a Climb a rib and blocks to a ledge below a smooth wall topped by a small overlap. Move up the right edge of the smooth wall; before stepping left and pulling through the overlap. Continue up to gain the top of pitch 1 of North Buttress route.

Additional info:
Juxtaposed repeated…grade confirmed… and its rather good!

The East Face of Tryfan > North Buttress > The North Tower (p 107)

Swarming

14m S
04-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Eighty-Foot Route, at the cleaner right flank of the tower.

4a Climb the right-hand of two cracks and gain a standing position on top of the flake. Pull onto the slab and follow it to below a green corner. Climb the left wall of the corner via a flake and an awkward mantleshelf.

The East Face of Tryfan > North Buttress > Terrace Wall

Cally’s Overhang

50m E2 6a ☆
24-Feb-2019, Derek Ryden, Glynne Andrew AL
Climbs the overhang between Beeline and Scars Climb.

1. 1. 25m, 6a Climb Scars Climb to the overhang. Make two moves left, then surmount the overhang and wall above directly, to belay on the Ballard Slab
   2. 25m, 5b Climb the slab for a few metres to a short, right-facing corner. Climb this (or avoid it on the left) and cracks above.

The Milestone Area > between Creigiau’r Dena and Milestone Buttress

Deception Arête

8m, VS 4c
25-Jul-2010, G Cook, J Sullivan, onsight
Start at the crack in the toe of the arête.

Follow the crack rightwards to the base of the large crack system in the arete. Climb this, swinging left to a large hold on the face and pull over the top.

The Milestone Area > between Creigiau’r Dena and Milestone Buttress

That Fine Rain

15m, VS 4c
25-Jul-2010, G Cook, J Sullivan, onsight
Start at the base of the detached slab.

Boldly climb the slab, step right at the top to the base of 2 parallel cracks. Fix small wires and climb the cracks, finish direct up the slab above.

The Milestone Area > between Creigiau’r Dena and Milestone Buttress

Prudence

16m, S 4a
25-Jul-2010, G Cook, J Sullivan, onsight
Start at the base of the rough crack.

Climb the crack to a good ledge. Climb the crack on the right of the ledge, to the left of the jutting block, then continue up the corner crack above.

The Milestone Area > The West Face of Tryfan > V Buttress

Flat Iron Ridge Direct

95m, S 4b, 0 stars
30-Apr-2011, Simon Caldwell, Carmen Elphick
Start approach as for Flat Iron Ridge.

1. Start just right of the toe of the buttress. Climb easy slabs towards a square notch and small pinnacle, below and left of the Flat Iron. Belay below the pinnacle.
2. 4b. A short slab leads to the notch. Pull over with difficulty and go diagonally right to belay below the Flat Iron.
3. Follow blocks immediately left of the Flat Iron, then a slab directly above.
4. 4a. Gain a narrow hanging slab from the right, follow this to its top then another slab on the left – unprotected. Belay up to the right.5. Move slightly left to avoid loose rocks on the arete, follow the ridge to below a short tower, junction with V Buttress Route.6. Climb the tower and follow the pinnacled ridge to the end.

Additional info:
Almost certainly climbed before (at least in part) as pitch 2 is such an obvious feature, though there was no sign of traffic. From the flat iron, we intended to climb the normal Flat Iron Ridge route, but failed to follow the description and took this direct line to the top. Subsequently checked the photo topo and the correct line seems to traverse a long way left at the start (no mention of this in the description).

The Milestone Area > Milestone Buttress > The Front of the Milestone

No Name (Pulpit alternative start)

15m HVS 5b
15-Sep-2014, Ewan Russell, Tom Nichols
Start to the left of little gully wall is a corner feature with hand jam crack. Hard to see from the road and only visible on the descent route when your just beneath it.

Climb the steep crack to a possible belay on pulpit route. Finish up the last pitch of pulpit route. A good testpiece which is very safe and has nice steep jamming. N.B Done with a very scrappy lower start on the F.A which can easily be avoided by accessing from little gully.

Milestone Buttress > The Back of The Milestone

The Lost Slab

15m VS 4c 1 star
16-Jul-2017, Philip Biglands
Start level with the start of Canopy Route, across the footpath to the left, is a slab with a stone drainage channel at its foot. Deception Arête, That Fine Rain and Prudence (described on Ogwen new routes page) may be nearby.

Start just right of centre and climb the flake crack stepping right near the top. Very polished at the start

Additional info:
Although this was climbed on Sunday, from the amount of polish, especially at the start, this must once have been a well travelled route. The first ascent was presumably long ago.

The Milestone Area > Creigiau’r Dena p 128

Scrawnsome

11m VS
02-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Anniversary Approach below a wide flake crack set in an overhanging wall.

4b Climb the wide flake crack to gain a right-facing corner. Using the left edge of the corner for layback holds, climb the wall on the left. An exciting little climb, which feels more independent than it actually is!

The Milestone Area > Creigiau’r Dena p 128

Scrawny Rib

8m S
02-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Anniversary Approach.

Follow Anniversary Approach for 2 metres; before pulling directly up the steep rib above.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Caws

22m VD
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Immediately above and left of the main buttress is a slab, liberally sprinkled with quartz. The rock runs to good holds, but can be brittle! Start 6 metres left of the right edge of the slab at a slabby, heathery corner.

Climb the rib just right of the corner to a ledge; step right and finish direct.

Additional info:
The name means “cheese”.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Llefrith

25m S
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Caws.

Gain the heathery corner, then move up leftwards to reach and climb the thin crack. Continue direct to finish up a series of cracks.

Additional info:
The name means “milk”.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Hufen

18m HS
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres left of Llefrith on a heathery ledge below a steep, open groove with a crack in its back; gained by an exposed traverse.

4b Climb the open groove and finish up the pocketed slab.

Additional info:
Yep you’ve guessed it, the name means “cream”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Eave-Ho

12m S
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Behind the top of Hufen is a smaller buttress with a left-slanting brown slab leading to eave-like roofs.

Follow the left-slanting slab to a niche below the roofs. Pull over, using the blocks with care.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Pimple Crack

8m HS
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres up and left of Eave-Ho, below a thin crack.

4b Pull into the crack and follow it to easier ground.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Mwynhau

9m VD
09-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres around and up right of Caws; the side wall of the quartz-sprinkled slab comprises a dome-shaped wall of the roughest, juggiest rock around! The main feature is a shallow recess in its centre leading to a dwindling ledge. Start 2 metres left of the shallow recess.

Pull up a short wall to gain the ledge; then follow flakes slightly leftwards to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “enjoy”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Bwrdd Du

10m S
09-Nov-2010, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Mwynhau.

Follow the left corner of the shallow recess; and finish up the less obvious holds directly above.

Additional info:
The name means “blackboard”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Arllwys

10m VD
09-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Bwrdd Du.

Step off a block and move up and leftwards into a vague scoop; finish direct.

Additional info:
The name means “to pour”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Aruthrol

9m HS
15-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Bwrdd Du.

4b Climb the right corner of the shallow recess and the wall directly above, via the smallest groove you’ll ever see. The name says it all; terrific!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Trobwynt

9m S
15-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start half a metre right of Aruthrol.

Climb the wall and short crack to gain the ledge by an awkward move. Finish up the rib above.

Additional info:
The name means “turning point”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Trwytho

11m VD
15-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres right of Eave-Ho below a two-tier ridge defining the right edge of a broken wall.

Climb the two-tier ridge.

Additional info:
The name means “to saturate”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Alarch

14m VD
15-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start level with Aruthrol and 15 metres across the gully at a quartz band below a slender rib.

Gain and climb the left-trending slender rib to a ledge. Follow flake cracks above and slightly right to finish.

Additional info:
The name means “swan”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Adain

16m D
15-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Alarch.

Follow Alarch for 2 metres, then cross the heather ledge to the right. Climb the quartz slab, and finish up its right edge.

Additional info:
The name means “wing”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Portia

9m HS
26-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 50 metres right of Aruthrol, past a quartz slab and finger stone, a hidden, broad gully slants up leftwards into the wide ridge above the main crag.It is enclosed by two sidewalls. The left (sunny) wall comprises a series of short walls; whose main feature is a curving roof, located approximately where the broad gully changes from grass to a boulder field. Start 12 metres below and left of the curving roof, below an attractive arête rising from a large ledge at 4 metres.

4a Gain the large ledge by climbing a short groove below its left side, and passing its capping bulge on its left. Follow the attractive arête on the right direct.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Capulet Crack

10m VD
26-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of the curving roof below a steep crack line.

Climb the opposing flakes forming the crack line, steeply.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Winter Discontent

14m VS
26-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Montague Rib.

4b Follow the awkward ramp up rightwards and gain the large ledge. The two-tier arete on the right leads to the top after a technical start.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

The Breach

15m D
26-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Winter Discontent.

Climb the right-slanting blocky groove to the top.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Montague Rib

8m HS
26-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Capulet Crack, below a fine rib.

4a Climb the right-hand side of the rib; stepping up daintily left to gain a small ledge on the rib itself, very classy! The crack immediately right proves to be of an awkward width Friar (6m S 26.01.11).

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Titania

6m S
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 35 metres below and left of Portia, near the bottom of the broad gully is a small, conglomorate wall with a mossy scoop on its left and a thin crack in its centre. Start below the thin crack.

Climb the thin crack. The wall immediately right via the alcove near the top is Bottom (6m S 4b 28.01.11).

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Goneril

8m S
28-Jan-2011, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Portia and 4 metres left of the curving roof, below a rather grubby V-groove.

Climb the V-groove.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Regan

9m HS
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Goneril, at a rightward-sloping ramp.

4b Gain the left-hand end of the ramp and climb the steep wall to reach the ledge up and left. Pull directly through the small overlap to the top.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Cordelia

11m HS
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Regan.

4b Follow the ramp rightwards and overcome the left-hand side of the curving roof by a reckless layback. Finish up a short groove.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Cawdor

15m HS
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The right (shady) wall of the broad gully is sterner! Towards its lower right-hand end is a left-sloping ramp opposite a large flat boulder; start here.

4b Climb the ramp to a ledge below a short, but steep wall. Haul up the wall, and finish up the crack and rib on the right.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Hyfryd

10m VD
18-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Arllwys.

Climb the small corner and finish up the straightforward slab.

Additional info:
The name means “pleasant”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Eave-Two

11m S
18-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Pimple Crack, at a recess leading to a wide crack.

Gain the base of the wide crack, make a move up it, then step right onto the rib. Finish up the slab to the left of the eaves.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Jac-Y-Do

15m D
18-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Alarch.

Climb up, then traverse right for 2 metres. Follow the rib immediately left of the quartz slab of Adain, and gain a block ledge on the left. Finish up the slab above.

Additional info:
The name means “jackdaw”!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Juliet’s Balcony

11m S
18-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Capulet Crack.

Gain the head-height ledge and follow a small groove to a line of flake holds. Follow these leftwards to gain an exposed ledge above the curving roof; from where a flake crack leads to the top. A fine little pitch!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Half-Monty

8m VS
18-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Montague Rib.

4b Climb the wall direct. In view of the appalling landing, a side runner in Friar may be prudent!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

St Crispin’s Day

12m HS
18-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately LEFT of Winter Discontent, at a right-slanting crack.

4b Climb the right-slanting crack to the large ledge. Finish up the eliminate wall just left of the arête of Winter Discontent.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Thane

15m VS
30-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Cawdor at a rectangular block.

4b Step off the block and climb the wall rightwards. Haul up the steep wall (as for Cawdor), before traversing leftwards along the flakes to a finish up the wide crack.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Birnam Wood

18m HS
30-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres left of Thane at a small rounded wall.

4b Climb the rounded wall and move up and rightwards into an overhung niche. Exit this on the left and continue to behind the pinnacle. Bridge up using the pinnacle and finish up the crack in the back wall.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

In Love

7m VS
30-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately left of Goneril.

4c Climb the left side of the arête until standing in the break. Step left and up to hidden flake holds which lead to the top.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Lear King

10m VS
30-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Goneril.

4c Gain the break, and hand traverse this leftwards, with an urgent finish up the scoop.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Bardic

28m S
11-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The right-hand sidewall of the main crag is broken by breaks into three tiers. The bottom tier is blocky and flaky; the routes climbed so far are on the golden rock of the middle and top tiers. Start 35 metres around and up right of Arête and Slab at a good spike below a heathery ramp slanting up rightwards below the smooth middle tier. A sweep of quartz slabs start just to the right.

Climb rightwards up the rib above the spike, then follow the heathery ramp rightwards until near its end. Climb through a small roof by the crack and continue to the break separating the middle and top tier (optional belay). Step right and follow the awkward shallow groove and finish up the wall above.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Golden Sonnet

11m S
11-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 11 metres above and right of Bardic on a gangway slab below and just right of the crack and roof of Bardic.

Climb the short flake crack to the ramp and pull through the roof as for Bardic. Move up, then tiptoe left along a tiny ramp; before extending up and slightly rightwards to reach flakes which lead to the top. A good little climb!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Laertes

10m S
11-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres above and right of Golden Sonnet below a heather ledge at head-height on the top tier.

Gain the ledge and move up to good holds. Follow the pleasant leftwards-rising line across the wall to the top. Start as for Laertes and continuing direct up the twin grooves above gives Polonius (10m VD 11.07.11).

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Troillus

12m VS
11-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Laertes.

4b Gain the ledge, then move diagonally rightwards across the brown ramp (harder than it looks!), to gain and finish up a groove.

Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157

Cressida

10m VS
11-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Troillus on a block.

4c Climb a steep wall and pull leftwards around the bulge to gain the groove of Troillus. Step right and follow the arête to reach the descent steps.

Glyder Fach > Little Buttress

Two Door Cinema Club

43m, HVS
22-May-2010, Simon Cardy, Dave Basford.
Start takes the obvious curving crack line on a wall right of Little Buttress. Start near the right edge of the lower part of the Buttress.

1. 18m. Climb easily the wall and slab just to the left of the arête to a big ledge. Belay below a thin pencil line crack on the big ledge.
2. 25m 5a. Start up the wall below a pencil thin crack then move right where the crack closes and up a short groove below a short tongue of grass. Move back left, using the curving crack, to a finger crack and climb the short groove above to finish. Good threads belays up and left.

Additional info:
The decent arrow p186 in the new guide is too low. You can traverse off right(facing in)a bit higher and weave a way down below Doleman Buttress into West Gully.

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (Upper Left)

Brillo Pad

20m VS
08-Aug-2010, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start about level with the top of Penglog Buttress and roughly 100 yards to the left (north) is an obvious slabby face. The left side presents a smooth slab with a hairline crack starting about 5 metres up. Start at the base of a slabby rib just right of this slab.

20m 4c Go up the slabby rib – thin to start – to better holds and a break. It is now possible to step left onto the left hand slab and gain the line of the hairline crack. Follow this on small holds in very good rough rock, to easy climbing and the top.

Additional info:
On sight. A direct start to the hairline crack would be an interesting (protectionless?) challenge.

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress p 162

Skullduggery

23m VS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Firebird Ridge.

4b Climb the arête and slab above to gain the loose flake at the top of the initial crack of Firebird Ridge. Trend rightwards up the rib above to gain easier ground.

Additional info:
The best line on the crag and marked; and not in the book!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress p 162

Scouring Hillsides

12m VS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Brillo Pad.

5a Sketch up the slab with a difficult move to reach the shelf. Climb the slab above and right to gain the finishing terrace.

Additional info:
Direct Start added at 5b to Brillo Pad. But a rest was required on the break to the right to allow the toes to recover!!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress p 162

Tarian

13m HS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Scouring Hillsides

4b Climb the double slab; step right and finish up the thin crack.

Additional info:
The name means “shield”.

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress p 162

Tafell

13m HS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Tarian, below the right-hand rib of the slab.

4b Climb the rib and the right side of the blunt nose above to reach the finishing terrace.

Additional info:
The name means “slice”.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Sarda Slab

25m D
14-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 75 metres above the outflow of Llyn Bochlwyd along the path to Bwlch Tryfan and a mere 4 metres from the path is a worthwhile little buttress. The main features are a slabby wall on the left with a small quartz band at 3 metres, and an escalator-like rib on the right. The climbs are pleasant on rough rock; but have a scramble in the middle! Start on a rock step at the foot of the slabby wall on the left of the buttress.

Climb the wall, past the quartz band, trending slightly rightwards, then follow the fine crack to reach easier ground. Scramble up and follow the left-trending flakes in the headwall to the top.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Siwah

25m HS
14-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Sarda Slab.

4b Climb the shallow groove and blunt rib above to easier ground. Finish up the groove in the rib above and right.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Hesket Later

25m VD
14-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres RIGHT of Sarda Slab below the escalator-like rib.

Climb a little wall then amble up the rib to gain a quartz glacis on the right side of the headwall. Pull steeply up the flakes on the left, then finish up the rib on the right.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Pelydr

13m S
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Approximately a half a kilometre left (East) of Penglog Buttress at a slightly higher level and 90 metres left of the main Bwlch Tryfan path is an intriguing buttress (OS Ref 661 589). It is identified by a slab, criss-crossed with cracks on its front face; whilst its right edge is marked by an outstanding arete forming a sidewall. Start 7 right of the extreme left edge of the buttress below a continuous rib.

Climb the rib.

Additional info:
The name means “ray”.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Pafin

12m S
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Pelydr.

Climb the brown-hued slab, with interest.

Additional info:
The name means “pavement”.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Trugareddau

30m S
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres down and right of Pafin at the left-hand of two short ribs below and left of the criss-crossed slab.

Climb the left wall of the left-hand rib and continue up the thin, left-trending flake crack; before climbing the rib on the right to gain a large ledge. Start up the groove 3 metres left of the slabby groove of Bodlondeb, for 2 metres; then move left to finish up the slabby wall.

Additional info:
The name means “bits and pieces”.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Bodlondeb

30m S
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Trugareddau.

Swarm up the right-hand and slenderest of the short ribs; before following the criss-crossed slab, firstly rightwards, then more directly to reach the large ledge. Finish up the slabby groove above.

Additional info:
The name means “satisfaction”.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Afanc

33m HS
17-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 30 metres above and right of Bodlondeb below a subsidiary rib left of the main outstanding arete.

4b Pull rightwards across a steep little wall and follow the scoop to gain the crest of the subsidiary rib. Climb rightwards along this to reach blocks just before the main arete. Make a wild, but avoidable swing rightwards on to the main arete and pull up to gain the easier upper section; finish up this.

Additional info:
The Afanc is a mythical beast roaming around the Welsh mountains! The route urgently needs a direct start up the bottom right wall (E23?).

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Sleigh Ride

10m VD
21-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 16 metres right of Hesket Later is another laid back buttress; with a corner groove on its left and a layback flake on its right. Start below and just left of the corner groove.

Climb the short wall and rib above. The corner groove itself is Laking (7m VD).

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Plaid

10m D
21-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of the corner groove.

Climb the pleasant arête and short rib above.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Laid Back

8m HS
21-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Plaid below the left-trending layback flake.

4b Climb the layback flake. A good introduction to the delights of laybacking! The disappearing flake 1m right gives Flake Out (5m S 4b). Whilst the excellent, marked slab just right is Slake (4m S 4c).

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Prospero

16m VS
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 80 metres left of the buttress containing Sarda Slab is a crag with an undercut arete towards its left side above quartz-fringed blocks. To the right a leaning pinnacle is an obvious feature. Start 11 metres around and up left of the undercut arete below a striking arete rising from a large ledge.

4b Climb a slabby rib to gain the ledge. Move right to reach the stiking arête and follow its right-hand side all the way to the top; a little gem!

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Ariel

15m HS
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down and right of Prospero below a line of flake holds at 2 metres.

4b Step off the small pedestal and pull steeply up the flake holds to gain a ledge. Step right and climb the corner and slabby wall above to finish.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Crazy Old World

20m S
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Ariel on a quartz-fringed block below the undercut arête.

Stride across and follow a flake to the undercut. Step left, pull up, then move right above the undercut. Follow the fine, shallow groove in the right side of the arête above and slightly left; to finish up the slabby wall.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Yorick

26m S
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Crazy Old World atop another quartz-fringed block below a triangular alcove.

Follow the rising crack line rightwards and move up a short slab to gain a heathery ledge (keeping well away from the menacing blocks on the right!). Amble up the slab rightwards to finish.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Caliban

23m VD
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Yorick at the right flank of the leaning pinnacle and immediately left of a short boulder-filled gully.

1. 10m Step up on sloping holds and scramble up to the summit of the pinnacle. A descent (crux) down a short crack leads to the top of the gully.
2. 13m Scramble up the slab above, to finish up a small corner.

Glyder Fach > Cwm Bochlwyd p 162

Falstaff

14m VD
28-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Caliban across the gully.

Climb the slabby corner and the pleasant thin cracks in the slab above. Starting 3 metres right, the heathery crack line gives Merry Wives (13m VD 28.01.11).

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Illya

22m S
03-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: From where the stone wall rising up from Bwlch Tryfan hits the main mass; cross the stile and scramble up rightwards for 45 metres to reach a wide gully (which forms a Direct Start to Bristly Ridge for the more intrepid scramblers!). Start below the left wall of the gully.

Climb up to a crack, then step right and follow the shallow grooves up the right side of the wall to gain a ledge with a large block on its left. Swarm up the crack formed by the block (trying not to pull too hard!); and climb a short wall to a terrace. The descent gully is easily reached to the right.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Dioclesian Rib

37m VD
03-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start below the quartz-studded right rib of the gully.

Climb the rib to easier ground, and make a tricky traverse left into the gully for the descent.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Permennion

25m S
03-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Thirty-five metres down and right of Dioclesian Rib is a buttress, comprising slabs and ribs and the occasional impending wall. Start towards the left side of the buttress below an attractive slabby rib; cairn! Descent: Follow a vague path right (looking in) for 25 metres, then descend easier rocks.

Gain, then climb the right side of the rib, then the rib itself to stacked flakes. Avoid the short steep wall above by climbing the scoop on the right to easier ground.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Mace Donor

25m S
03-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 14 metres right of Permennion at a rib, just right of a grassy amphitheatre.

Climb the rib to the top of a huge flake. Continue up the pleasant, left-trending groove line in the slab; before finishing up the ridiculously juggy cracks above.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Hwiangerdd

12m S
03-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Brillo Pad, at a thin crack in the right side of a slabby pillar.

Climb the thin crack to a ledge, step right and finish up a rib.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Rubber Dub

15m VS
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Brillo Pad below a thin crack.

4c Step up into the crescent-shaped scoop and climb the slab, keeping just left of the thin crack. At the flake handrail, step right and finish up the continuation crack.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Cylch

17m S
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 14 metres left of Hwiangerdd, at a lower level, below a small circular recess 11 metres up.

Climb the wet slabs and continue past the recess to the top.

Additional info:
Hwiangerdd means “lullaby!” Cylch means “circle!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Piler Dewi Sant

15m HVS
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres up and left of Cylch below an attractive pillar.

4c Climb the pillar directly; the tufa feature being useful for the right hand. Superb, elegant climbing!

Additional info:
The name means “St. David’s Pillar!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Gwydr

10m S
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres above and left of Piler Dewi Sant at a corner.

4b Move up, then follow the shelf rightwards to gain a standing position on a rounded ledge. Climb two successive corners to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “glass!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Camau

10m HS
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Gwydr.

4b Step left and follow the stepped inset wall.

Additional info:
The name means “steps!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Gwawr

9m HS
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Camau between two cracks in the centre of an enticing square wall.

4b Pull up onto the wall and climb it directly; passing a sloping ledge and taking care with the wafer-thin flake on the right near the top.

Additional info:
The name means “dawn!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Culhau

9m S
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Gwawr at the left-hand crack.

4b Climb the narowing crack.

Additional info:
The name means “narrowing!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Penbleth

9m VS
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Culhau.

5a Make a tricky start just right of the left arête of the wall, and finish up the wall above. The corner groove just left gives a good tussle Bythwyrdd ( 8m S 4b 04.06.11).

Additional info:
Penbleth means “confusing!” Bythwyrdd means “evergreen!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Hawdd

11m S
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Immediately below Rubber Dub, is a buttress with a steep prow sticking out in its centre. Start 5 metres down and right of the prow at a line of thin cracks in a stepped wall.

Climb the juggy thin cracks to a trickier final section.

Additional info:
The name means “easy!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Bwtres Hedfan

17m HVS
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Hawdd.

4c Climb the slab and step left into a niche right of the prow and above its base. Make a bold step left onto the front of the prow, and continue delicately up its left edge; before a rough, quartz slab leads to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “flying buttress!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Turio

16m S
04-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres above and left of Bwtres Hedfan, below a V-groove just left of the prow.

Enter the V-groove awkwardly and continue upwards. Ignore the easier ground ahead and finish up the flake crack on the right.

Additional info:
The name means “to burrow!”

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Hermion

22m HS
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 11 metres right of Permennion below a sweep of slabs leading to an impending wall at 10 metres.

4b Climb a scoop, step right, then follow the slabs up leftwards below the impending wall to reach a large recess. Continue up the cracks in the back wall of the recess; trending leftwards to utilize the most secure flakes.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Dionysius

18m S
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Mace Donor at a higher level.

Move up to a flake, hand traverse this rightwards and pull up into a scoop. Move up, then follow cracks in the rib on the right to finish. Pleasant climbing throughout!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Clytus

8m S
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty-five metres around and right of Dionysius on a higher terrace is a short, blade-like buttress; start here.

Step off the flat quartz-topped block and climb the left side of the right arête of the buttress.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Pleitus

15m VD
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Clytus below a small rectangular roof and just left of a remarkable thread formed by a jammed quartz block.

Pull through the left end of the roof and follow the line of a thin crack; before finishing up the short walls above.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Intro

42m VD
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo) Re-discovered
Start: Twelve metres below Mace Donor is the rounded top of a long ridge. The ridge is rather rambling, but it does support a steep sidewall on the left. Start at the left toe of the ridge, just right of two blocks.

Pull up on flakes and continue up the ridge. Climb the left-slanting crack formed by a large block and move up to the steeper headwall. This is Severe if climbed direct! Above, climb more easily to the top.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Prelude

40m VD
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Intro.

Climb the square recess and follow slabs and grooves on the right. Bridge up behind the large blocks and finish up two short aretes on the right.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

JKC

15m VS
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Eighteen metres up the gully left of Intro is an offwidth crack formed by a huge leaning flake. Start a further 3 metres up the gully below a curving groove with a bulge at 4 metres.

4b Climb the groove and pass the bulge to its right. Continue up to the large roof; before moving right and pulling up onto a sloping ledge. Step right, then up and left to above the roof. Finish up the slabby rib.

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Kershaw Crack

12m S
06-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres above and left of JKC at a V-groove with an obvious, wide flake crack branching rightwards out of it.

Climb the left side of the V-groove; then step right and follow the flake crack to a finish up a slab.

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (P 162)

Angelita

8m HS
19-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Directly below Penbleth is the top of a large, quartz-marked, easy-angled slab. This slab is bordered to its right (looking out) by a wide grass and boulder gully. The right-hand (still looking out) sidewall of the gully contains an attractive sharp arête; start below this feature.

4b Gain the obvious ledge, then layback the left side of the sharp arête.

Additional info:
The right-hand side of the arête and the crackseam just right will be totally different propositions! Go for them!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (P 162)

Tywodlyd

12m VS
19-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Angelita.

4c Climb a subsidiary slab to a ledge. Then follow the “snappy” back wall; first on its right side, then on its left.

Additional info:
The name means “sandy”!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (P 162)

Henaidd

15m HS
19-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Tywodlyd on a glacis.

4b Romp up the pleasant rib to a thinner finish up the groove in the arête. Finishing up the slabby groove just right makes the whole route VD!

Additional info:
The name means “old-fashioned”!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (P 162)

Oes Haearn

12m VS
19-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Opposite Angelita on the far side of the gully is an arête and groove with an obvious snaking crackline; start here.

4b Gain the groove, step left and follow the right-hand side of the arête to a finish up a thin-finger groove, excellent!

Additional info:
The name means “iron age”!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (P 162)

Amynedd

8m VS
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Thirty-five metres left of Angelita is a round buttress with a ramp on its left-hand side and a curving crack in its centre. Start 2 metres right of the curving crack below a small sloping ledge at 1 metre.

5a Somehow gain the sloping ledge and finish up the fine shallow groove above.

Additional info:
The name means “patience”!

Glyder Fach > Penglog Buttress (P 162)

Saracen Crack

10m S
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Amynedd.

Climb the curving crack, using the flakes on the left with care! The ramp just left is pleasant Skimmer (12m D 02.09.11).

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Pedrongl

12m S
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty metres left of Saracen Crack is a crag with many groove lines, and a mere 50 metres from the main Bwlch Tryfan path. Towards its right side is a rectangular wall with vertical crack lines and guarded by two flakes at its base. Start here.

Step off the larger, left-hand flake and follow the thin cracks up the centre of the wall.

Additional info:
The name means “quadrangle”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Chwith

11m VD
02-Sep-2011, BJ CLarke (solo)
Start as for Pedrongl.

Climb the left side of the wall; very pleasant!

Additional info:
The name means “left”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Eironi

12m VS
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Chwith.

4b Follow the narrow left-trending rampline; and finish directly up the steep headwall.

Additional info:
The name means “irony”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Godidog

15m HS
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres left of Eironi below the right side of the main wall of the crag.

4b Move up rightwards to a niche formed by a rock scar. Step up, then move left up a short flake to a tiny ledge below the headwall. Climb this direct and pull over the block at the top.

Additional info:
The name means “spendid”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Cannwyll

15m VS
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Godidog.

4b Climb the right-facing corner formed by a small pillar and move up left to the top of the pillar. Follow the wider pillar to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “candle”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Tynged

12m VS
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Cannwyll, at an attractive rounded arête with a thin crack on its right side.

4c Step off a small pinnacle and move up to reach the thin crack. Climb this on poor finger-locks, but better finishing holds to gain easier ground and the top.

Additional info:
The name means “destiny”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Cefnen

23m VD
02-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twelve metres left of Tynged, past a recess containing many rounded crack lines, the crag ends at a ridge. Start below the left flank of the ridge.

Climb the left flank of the ridge, step right and pull through the steepening at 5 metres. Scramble pleasantly up the ridge to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “ridge”!

Glyder Fach > Castell y Gwynt (p 191)

Gwyntessential

20m VD
22-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Takes the fine slab 4 metres right of p2 of Frost’s Climb. Start from large blocks below the slab, quickly reached by a short scramble from the main gully leading up to the Bwlch.

Move left and follow the centre of the slab, finishing to the right of the blocks.

Glyder Fach > Castell y Gwynt (p 191)

Rock Lobster

15m VD
22-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres right of Gwyntessential below a crooked rib.

Follow the crooked rib, with some frightening grass climbing to gain the upper continuation on the left.

Additional info:
Perhaps worth a visit mid-summer to investigate the 40m-high thin crack and blank slab just right of Crab Slab!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Preseb

11m D
28-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Fifteen metres above the finish of Godidog is a fine little slab, cut by two thin cracks. Start below the right-hand sidewall of the slab, just right of a recess and at the foot of a spiky crack.

Climb the spiky crack. The lower right-trending line of flakes, finishing up a short steep crack give the pleasant Asyn Bach (14m D 28.12.11).

Additional info:
Preseb means “manger”! Asyn Bach means “little donkey”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Persawr

11m VD
28-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Preseb.

Step off the spike and climb out of the recess, before following the thin crack above for 2 metres. Climb another thin crack on the left, and finish up the rib.

Additional info:
The name means “perfume”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Nadolig

9m S
28-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Persawr, at a curving groove below the right-hand thin crack in the slab.

4a Climb the groove and crack.

Additional info:
The name means “Christmas”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Llawen

9m S
28-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Nadolig below a block.

Pull around the block, and finish up the left-hand thin crack in the slab.

Additional info:
The name means “merry”!

Glyder Fach (p 162)

Doethineb

10m S
28-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Llawen.

4b Undercut leftwards below the block and pull up to gain a ramp. Climb the short corner on the left and finish up the rib.

Additional info:
The name means “wisdom”!

Clogwyn y Tarw > West Buttress

Valley Bound

20m E1 5b
16-May-2016, Christopher Moran, Andrew Barker
Start 2 metres to the left of ‘Member VS 4c’. This route has an independent start and takes the obvious offwidth that Member approaches but skirts off to the right.

Start 2 metres to the left of Member in the V groove. Powerful climbing allows access to the obvious offwidth between Barracuda and member. Climb strongly up this, Camelot 6 highly recommended. From the top of the pedestal, finish up the jamming crack on the left wall. Care with loose block on the belay.

Clogwyn y Tarw > East Buttress (p 198)

Lysander

40m VS
19-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Slab Intermediate Route.

1. 18m 4c Step up to an undercut, move up, then right to better holds. Continue up the wall and move left to the alcove on Slab Climb. The slabby rib on the right is started by a bold layback on its right-hand side and followed to the good stance at the top of pitch 1 of Slab Recess Route.
2. 22m 4a Step left and follow the slab up until Slab Recess Route is rejoined below the prominent rib. Follow the slab rightwards at its junction with the steep right wall of the rib, and finish up the V-groove of Slab Recess Route.

Cwm Cneifion > The Sub-Cneifion Rib p 220

Transgression

23m VD
08-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Sub-Cneifion Rib is a subsidiary buttress, now containing two worthwhile little climbs. Start 25 metres down and right od Sub Cneifion Rib on the right flank of this subsidiary buttress and 6 metres above its base; and below a tiny groove capped by an arched roof.

Step left and climb a short rib, then trend leftwards up a scoop; before finishing up a crackramp.

Cwm Cneifion > The Sub-Cneifion Rib p 220

Dilettante

21m S
08-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Transgression.

Pass the arched roof to its right and follow a ramp-line up the right sidewall of the buttress to an escape left at a flake. Climb a short corner and finish up a blunt rib which steepens near the top to give a delicate finish.

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Varnishing Holds

30m VS
08-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres down and right of Peredur at the lowest point of the buttress.

4c Climb the rib and the awkward short corner-groove above and right; before following the arête on the right of the deep groove. Ascend the final wall rightwards to finish up a thin crack.

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Inarwg

15m HS
08-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres left of Spinal Crack at the foot of a slab facing down the valley.

4a Climb the slab slightly leftwards to an overlap; pull over this and the heather cornice above, and finish up the wall on the right.

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Snug as a Bug

17m VD
08-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres up and right of Spinal Crack on the left flank of another impressive rounded buttress; below a niche.

Climb up to the niche, then step left to below a shallow groove. Climb the left rib of the shallow groove and the mercifully short wide crack above.

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Israddol

30m VD
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Sixty metres above and right of Snug as a Bug is a brown, crinkly whaleback slab; with a subsidiary, slender rib and slab below and left. Start at the very foot of the slender rib and slab.

Climb the rib to a steepening. Overcome this by a crack on the left and finish up the slab above.

Additional info:
The name means “inferior”!

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Igam-Ogam

12m S
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres up and left of Israddol, on the sidewall of the rib, just left of a vegetated crack.

Climb past the square blob to gain a ramp, which is followed leftwards for 4 metres to an awkward finish up a crack.

Additional info:
The name means “zig-zag”!

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Teg

11m S
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Thirty metres left (looking in) of Igam Ogam and at the same level; is a beautiful slabby wall riven by a crack. This is in fact the top right flank of Craig y Cerddinen, Upper!

Climb the fine crack and finish up the slab on the right.

Additional info:
The name means “beautiful”!

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Iasol

10m VS
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Teg.

5a Pull up onto the wall awkwardly, move up; then make a precarious step up left to reach an easier crack and groove.

Additional info:
The name means “thrilling”!

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Hapchwarae

35m VD
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 17 metres above and RIGHT of Israddol at the foot of the brown whaleback slab; best gained by starting up Israddol.

Climb up the the brittle holds on the left side of the blunt rib, and finish up the slabs.

Additional info:
The name means ” a game of chance”!

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Snapplespike

25m VS
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Hapchwarae below the steep sidewall of the whaleback slab.

4b Follow the strenuous rightwards rising line across the sidewall for 8 metres; before pulling up and left onto the slab with relief. Finish up the right side of the slab.

Cwm Cneifion > Craig y Cerddinen p 222

Alborada

14m HS
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Ten metres below and right of Snapplespike is a short, dome-shaped buttress. Start at the foot of the arete of this buttress.

4b Make tricky moves up the left side of the arete and finish up the easing slab above. The pinnacle flake and short wall above, 5 metres right give an awkward tussle Graciosa (10m S 02.05.11).

Additional info:
Alborada means “dawn song”! Graciosa means “jester”! (Both Spanish).

Cwm Cneifion > The Sub-Cneifion Rib > Scimitar Crack Buttress (p 220)

Hirgrwn

18m VD
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Ten metres below and right of Scimitar Crack a quartz block marks the start of a grass terrace. Start 3 metres along the terrace below a slim groove.

Climb the slim groove, step right and follow the pleasant slab to a grassy recess at the foot of the left-hand rib of p2 of Sub-Cneifion Rib.

Additional info:
The name means “oval”!

Cwm Cneifion > The Sub-Cneifion Rib > The Main Rib (p 220)

Gofod

30m VS
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start below the undercut nose at the start of p3 of the Sub-Cneifion Rib.

4b A thin crack splits the overlap just left of the nose. Climb a slab to the overlap, step left, and gain the thin crack above the overlap by a cunning move rightwards. Follow the crack for 5 metres, before gaining the top of the hollow flake on the left. Continue up the left side of the arête to eventually reach and follow the top section of the Sub-Cneifion Rib.

Additional info:
The name means “space”!

Cwm Cneifion > The Sub-Cneifion Rib > Scimitar Crack Buttress (p 220)

Herwhela

21m HS
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Pickpocket.

4a Move up, then keep right to follow the right side of the slab. At the steepening, step left and move up to a ledge. Finish up the short slab on the left. Take some thin slings!

Additional info:
The name means “to poach”!

Cwm Cneifion > Lechau Cneifion (p 224)

Peren

35m VD
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixty-five metres above and left of Crognant is another area of slabs, shorter but cleaner. The main features are a sweep of slabs on the left, leading to a steepening at 25 metres. To the right a dark groove with a prominent large undercut hold at 10 metres is obvious. Start at the left side of the sweep of slabs, above and left of a rock outcrop in the heather.

Climb the blunt rib and the shallow groove in the steepening; keeping 1 metre right of the bounding arête. Finish up the slabs.

Additional info:
The name means “pear”!

Cwm Cneifion > Lechau Cneifion (p 224)

Tyllog

40m VD
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres down and right of Peren, and opposite the rock outcrop.

CLimb the bubbly rib and the left rib of a short right-facing corner above. Continue up the central depression in the steepening and the slabs above.

Additional info:
The name means “full of holes”!

Cwm Cneifion > Lechau Cneifion (p 224)

Y Ddraig Ddu

50m VD
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down and right of Tyllog at a scoop.

Climb up rightwards to gain the large undercut hold in the dark groove. Follow the flake crack on the left and continue to the steepening. Overcome this using a thin flake in the dark shallow groove, and finish up the scalloped slabs on the right; good climbing!

Additional info:
The name means “the black dragon”!

Cwm Cneifion > Lechau Cneifion (p 224)

Dragonwyck

70m VS
04-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres below and right of Y Ddraig Ddu at a gentle rib leading to a bulge.

1. 40m 4b Trend leftwards up the rib and climb the bulge via the small groove on its right. Continue up the pillar to gain a scooped ledge below a smooth impending wall. Move rightwards up a ramp and climb a delicate slab to reach a right-slanting break. Move right along the break for 3 metres; then pull up a steep wall on rounded holds to reach a small ledge up and left (smallmedium cam belays).
2. 30m Follow the slabs above and slightly left to finish. A great climb, with a hint of seriousness!

Additional info:
On reflection, this route may cover much the same ground as Maen Chwyth; but in the absence of a complete description and having no reference in the First Ascents list, it is hard to be sure! One thing is certain however, this is a fine pillar of amazing rock!

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Slap on the Rouge

50m VD
08-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the top of pitch 2 of Red Slab.

An exploration of the steeper ground above and left of the parent route. From the left end of the stance pull through the overhang at a white scoop and continue up the rib. Climb a steepening up and left and gain a grassy fault. Pull across the steep wall ahead and finish up the broad rib.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Twll-y- Clo

50m D
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 90 metres right of Goat Slab at the same level and above and left of the awkward stream crossing on the main path a hidden, spiky, mottled slab slants up leftwards. Clearly seen on page 235 in the new guidebook. Start at the foot of a subsidiary slab just to its left.

Follow the subsidiary slab for 8 metres; before trending rightwards to gain and follow the main slab on amazing rock to the top.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Llech Aur

36m S
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres up and right of Goat Slab is a brown slab seamed with cracks. Also well seen on p 235! Start towards the left side of the slab, below a pocketed slab at 12 metres; small cairn.

Climb the slanting cracks and the pocketed slab to finish up the cracks in the left side of the headwall.

Additional info:
The name means “golden slab”.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Trolley Song

15m S
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres down and LEFT of Llech Aur is a smaller grey buttress with tramline cracks in its upper part.

Trend rightwards up the buttress and finish up the right-hand of the tramline cracks.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Clang, Clang

14m VD
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres up and right of Trolley Song on a heathery rake.

Climb up leftwards to finish up the fine rib.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Pawen

35m HS
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres up and RIGHT of LLech Aur at a smoother section of slab.

4b Climb the cracks up the smooth section of the slab; then continue direct to the top.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Gap

9m S
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres right of Open Heart below the wide crack between the blocks.

Climb the wide crack. Despite appearances it is possible to maintain a degree of elegance! The pocketed slab and wall immediately behind Gap gives the surprising Cow Udder (11m VD 02.08.10); with a steeper finish on the left.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Continue Hum

23m VS
02-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for The Arête.

4b Climb a thin crack and cross the traverse of The Arête. Move up rightwards and follow a shallow groove; before trending leftwards to reach a large scoop. Finish up the slab on the right. Good climbing, and marked in places!

Idwal Slabs and Walls > East Wall p 236

Crib

30m VD
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 45 metres left of Ash Tree Wall and beyond the descent path is a stand-alone, pinnacle-like grey buttress; with a slabby front and a steep sidewall overlooking the gully on the right. Start below the centre of the slabby front of the buttress at a shallow corner just right of a smooth wall.

Climb the shallow corner and scramble up the heather to gain the headwall. Trend up and rightwards to reach the arête, and finish up this; exposed but straightforward.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Gaugamela

12m HVS
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres down and left of Invisible Thread below an arete.

5a Step off a block and climb the right-hand side of the arete for 2 metres; then make a tricky step left and hard pull to gain the arête proper. Follow the easier thin crack above and finish just to the left of a peculiar recress.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Parhad

23m S
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo) re-discovered!
Start 35 metres below and right of Invisible Thread is a buttress with an obvious central groove. Start at a crack directly below the central groove.

4b Climb the crack and the right wall of the groove, before stepping into the groove to enjoy the crux moves at the top.

Additional info:
The rock is well-marked, the line strong and the climbing good! A mystery why it didn’t make the guidebook. The name means “continuation”!

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Pendroni

23m VS
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Parhad.

4c Move right and climb the awkward slabby wall; before following the arete on the right to an “impasse” near the top. Step 1 metre left and make a couple of reachy steep pulls to gain the top.

Additional info:
The name means “to ponder”!

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Palava

17m VD
27-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres above and left of Lava Slab Left is another slab bordered by a vegetated corner on its right. Start on the grassy terrace 2 metres left of the vegetated corner.

Trend leftwards up a shallow crack for 7 metres, then continue directly up a vague rib; finishing to the right of a perched flake.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Lava Bread

16m S
27-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Palava.

Climb directly up the pleasant slab.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall p 266

Lava Birds

18m S
27-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Lava Bread at the vegetated corner.

4a From the block on the right, step onto the rib and follow a series of hidden, but recurring holds up the rib to a finish up a slab.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Petryal

28m VD
27-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Pawen at a very shallow rectangular recess.

Climb the recess and continue up the delightful thin crack through a slight steepening; to a finish on the headwall just left of the small prow.

Additional info:
The name means “rectangle”.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Ding, Ding

15m S
27-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3metres left of Clang, Clang.

4a Follow the cracks rightwards to finish up the pleasant left-hand crack of the tramline.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Rhiwiau Caws p 251

Moves Mountains

16m VS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Faith below a square recess at 4 metres guarded by a steep wall.

4c Climb a short corner in the steep wall, step right, then left and pull up into the square recesss. Continue direct, climbing the right side of the rib above to reach the spike ledge on Faith. Either continue up or descend Faith.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Rhiwiau Caws p 251

Ffydd

65m HS
01-Sep-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Faith. Two good, direct eliminate pitches.

1. 25m Climb straight up the slab; the pockets pointing the way, and through the quartz plaques to reach the belay of p1 Faith.
2. 40m Move up and left to gain the reddish slab and follow the right side of this, keeping to the left of the large heather patch. Near the top, move left and follow the narrow slab of Faith to reach the belay below Faith West Finish and a choice of finishes.

Additional info:
The name means “Faith”.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Rhiwiau Caws p 251

Esperanza

21m S
02-May-2011, Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Slabs Eliminate.

Climb a short corner and follow a thin, left-slanting crack (marked). Where Hope joins and trends left; step daintily right and follow a shallow crack to a belay beneath the Twin Cracks.

Additional info:
The name is Spanish for Hope!

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Rhiwiau Caws p 251

Marienkadenz

24m S
02-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the right side of the quartz slab (the right-hand start of Hope), and 5 metres left of Moves Mountains.

Climb the short slab and step right across the damp break. Follow the left side of the facet slab above to gain a small ledge below a conspicuous white rib. Climb the white rib slightly on its right side and a crampon-scratched groove above to reach the first stance of Faith.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Rhiwiau Caws (p 251)

Crefydd

120m VS
16-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Start immediately left of the deep furrow of The Ordinary Route.

1. 46m 4a Climb straight up the slab, eventually traversing left to belay on the shoulder half-way up pitch 2 of Tennis Shoe.
2. 18m 4c Above and to the left is a grey pillar with a groove on its right. Climb the slab just left of the groove, then the groove itself for a few metres. Step left onto the pillar and make a pull up near its left arete; before making the crux moves right and up to reach a right-facing corner. Up this to join pitch 3 of Tennis Shoe where it crosses the gully, and belay.
3. 32m Step right and climb the slab to a grassy runnel. Move up left and follow the clean grey slab to belay on a terrace below and right of the Tower.
4. 24m 4a Climb a white wall, then follow the diagonal line leftwards to a finish up a short grassy groove 6 metres above the perched block atop Tennis Shoe. A nice series of pitches, but with a much harder crux than the rest!

Additional info:
The name means “Religion”!

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Idwal Buttress p 271

Udders Field

11m VS
28-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Gap at the right-hand pocketed block.

4b Climb the pockets rightwards and move up to the bulge. Pull leftwards through this to easier ground.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall (p 266)

The Arête Nearly Direc

21m VS
20-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Continue Hum.

4b Climb a subsidiary slab to reach a green corner. Sep right onto a designer foothold and pull into the shallow groove running up the rib. Follow the groove to where The Arête crosses it. Keep right and climb the main rib via a delicate layaway move to gain a ledge and finish direct.

Idwal Slabs and Walls > Continuation Wall (p 266)

Candle Rib

22m VS
20-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Diagonal Route, below a candle-shaped rib at 9 metres.

4c Follow the slanting holds up the slab to reach a blank, steep section of rib. Move right and muscle up a steep wall to gain the rib. Climb the candle, monkey-style, and follow the continuation rib to reach easier ground.

Clogwyn y Geifr > North Cliff

Devilish

90m E5 6b ☆
16-May-2019, Callum Muskett, Ben Silvestre, Dave Rudkin, Tim Neill
Start between Hell Bent and Devil’sFissure at the smooth wall. 1, 35m 5c, Trend left and climb boldly up the front of the pedestal to its top (Hell Bent gains this point by the easier grassy rake on its left). Gain the rightwards trending crack in the overlap above and follow this to gain easier ground and the communal belay on the ledge above. 2, 25m 6b, Step left and take the central crack. As it peters out by the third diagonal seam either step up and left onto the obvious flat footholds (E5 6b) or make a couple of moves along the diagonal seam rightwards into Hell Bent and back left (E4 6a). Both versions have great rock, moves and protection. Top pitch was led first by Callum and Ben. Dave and Tim added the first pitch and repeated the top pitch minutes later…

Y Garn > N E Ridge p 308

Au Fond

12m S
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Low down on the right-hand section of the NE Ridge and 90 metres left of the stream draining Llyn Clyd; and a mere 100 metres above the level of Llyn Idwal is a distinctive, pearl-coloured slab, cut by two left-slanting heathery cracks (GR 641 597). Start 6 metres left of the left-hand slanting crack at the left end of the slab.

Climb a subsidiary slab, then a steeper slab above, and finish direct.

Y Garn > N E Ridge p 308

Pearl Fisher

14m S
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of the left-hand slanting crack. Descent:- the crampon-scratched, easy-angled rib on the left (looking in); or the damp gully on the right.

Climb the slab, past a flake-like sliver of rock at 3 metres; before finishing up less steep rock.

Y Garn > N E Ridge p 308

Temple Saint

16m HS
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of the right-hand slanting crack.

4a CLimb the slab into a broad scoop, pull out of this slightly to the left; before finishing up the shallow groove in the rib on the right.

Y Garn > N E Ridge p 308

Bizet Buttress

17m S
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Temple Saint.

Follow the pockets rightwards to the arête, step left and continue up the arête to finish.

Y Garn > N E Ridge p 308

Pearl Popper

6m VS
15-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 60 metres below and left of Au Fond is a rounded, pebbly craglet. Start at the foot of the facet facing Idwal Slabs.

5a Climb the facet; spooky and speculative! Immediately left, the left side of the facet via the thin crack gives Imitation Pearl (6m VD 15.08.10)

Idwal Cottage Area > Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)

Bubble Wrap

16m HS
24-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: One hundred metres above and behind Idwal Cottage Crag at the head of its own tiny cwm is a small; comprising a grey slabby wall on its right and a white wall up and left. Start at the toe of the grey slabby wall.

4a Move up, then follow the ramp up leftwards. Use the cracks above and right to gain another left-slanting ramp. Up this; before following a crack rightwards and so gain the top. Sustained, beautiful climbing!

Idwal Cottage Area > Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)

Gummed

12m S
24-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Bubble Wrap.

Follow the thin crackline leftwards to a small roof. Step right and climb another crack to the top.

Idwal Cottage Area > Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)

Palor

10m VD
24-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the centre of the white wall, 2 metres right of the arête, and 8 metres up and left of Gummed.

Climb the wall to a ledge, then step left and finish up the arête.

Idwal Cottage Area > Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)

Paleface

12m S
24-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Palor.

Climb the crack, then follow the cracks in the steeper headwall.

Nant Ffrancon > Craig Blaen y Nant > Forgotten Pillar p 316

Hafod Buttress

50m VD
04-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 55 metres below and right of the Forgotten Pillar is a broad buttress whose top section becomes broken into short slabby walls. Start below this buttress. Descent:- carefully down the grassy gully on the left (looking in).

Climb the left edge of the buttress to a large block at its top; taking care with the rock in its upper section.

Nant Ffrancon > Craig Blaen y Nant > Forgotten Pillar p 316

The Spear

12m S
04-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 70 metres down and right of Hafod Buttress and beyond a stepped ridge is a pinnacle. Start below this feature.

Climb a short wall, then move right to gain the steep main face of the pinnacle. Climb this rightwards and continue up the summit block. 10 metres higher a rib and a shallow groove on the left flank of an overhanging prow give Spearmint (6m S 4b 04.08.10).

Nant Ffrancon > Craig Blaen y Nant > Forgotten Pillar p 316

Diaphony

12m VS
04-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 60 metres right of The Spear is the right-hand buttress; a white slab facing down the valley; guarded by a slanting roof at its base. Start below the slanting roof.

4c Make an interesting move over the left side of the slanting roof. Continue delicately up the blunt rib to reach the finishing terrace. Belays up to the right.

Nant Ffrancon > Craig Blaen y Nant > Forgotten Pillar p 316

Diaphonous

14m S
04-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres down and right of Diaphony.

Move around the slanting roof on its right and continue up shallow grooves, slightly rightwards to reach the finishing terrace.

Cwm Marchlyn Mawr > Craig Marchlyn Bach

Micronesia

9M E5 6a ☆☆
30-May-2020, Andy Moles, Ferdia Earle
Craig Marchlyn Bach. At the far top left of the crag there are various short pillars and arêtes, too tall for highballing given the steep landings. The most striking of these is Perrin’s Prow (E6 6b). Micronesia is the arête to the left. Short but excellent quality – would be popular on a grit edge. The crux is low down. Small cams in each of the overlaps. The little flake that looks loose is loose, but has resisted removal and is easily avoided.

Cwm Marchlyn Mawr > Craig Marchlyn Bach

Western Grit

10m VS 5a ☆
01-Jun-2020, Andy Moles
The corner between Micronesia and Perrin’s Prow is a good old fashioned tussle.

Cwm Marchlyn Mawr > Craig Marchlyn Bach

Chop Hippo

25m E1 5c ☆
30-May-2020, Andy Moles, Ferdia Earle
The tallest continuous section of crag on the hillside is high on the left hand ridge, a northwest-facing wall distinguished by thin cracks. Climb the main corner in the front of this buttress, step left onto a big sloping ledge, then finish steeply up the cracks in the wall above.

Cwm Marchlyn Mawr > Craig Marchlyn Bach

Cleaning Windows

20m HVS 5a
30-May-2020, Andy Moles, Ferdia Earle
The right hand line of cracks on the wall. Start up a short left-facing corner to ledges. Climb the right crack to the overlap, move right and climb another crack to the top. Pleasant.

Boulders around Llyn Bochlwyd – Photo Dave Comer. 

The boulders around Llyn Bochlwyd

Various boulder problems (see below)

Date of ascent: 25-Mar-2017
Climbers: Dave Comer, Dave King
Start location:
The boulders around Llyn Bochlwyd (just south west of Tryfan). I’ve not managed to find any mentions of them online or in guide books, so I’m optimistically submitting the lines we climbed on them here as new problems.

• Area 1 is on the obvious rock just off the path on the Tryfan side of the path which runs to the east of Llyn Bochlwyd.
• Area 2 in the most obvious area of large boulders down between the path and the east shore of the lake.
• Area 3 is the large crystal covered boulder just to the south of the lake.

Pitch descriptions:
Topos for the descriptions below can be viewed …

Area 1, photo 1, line 1: Got to start somewhere
Grade: V1
Climber: Dave King
Description:

Area 1, photo 1, line 2: Brownie
Grade: V2
Climber: Dave Comer
Description:

Area 1, photo 2, line 3: Boot Route
Grade: Mod/scramble/VB (10m)
Climber: Dave King
Description: Climbed in boots because we were there and it looked cool. Climb the corner on the steepest ground you can find, then scramble up the obvious arête above.

Area 2, photo 1, line 1: “Fischer Price: My First Crack”
Grade: V0
Climber: Dave King
Description:

Area 2, photo 2, line 2: Chiropractor
Grade: V2
Climber: Dave Comer
Description: Don’t fall off.

Area 2, photo 3, line 1:
Grade: V2, V0 if you use the pillar on the left.
Climber: Dave King
Description: Sit Start

Area 2, photo 3, line 2: Greenpeace
Grade: V3
Climber: Dave Comer
Description: Sit start

Area 2, photo 4, line 3: Railroad
Grade: V2
Climber: Dave Comer
Description: Start sitting in the crack, go left, then pull over the left-hand end of the overhang.

Area 2, photo 4, line 4:
Grade: V2
Climber: Dave King
Description: Start sitting in the crack and follow the most obvious line directly upwards.

Area 3, photo 1, line 1:
Grade: V0
Climber: Dave King
Description:

Area 3, photo 1, line 2:
Grade: V0
Climber: Dave Comer
Description: Straight up the middle of the crystal covered boulder.

Area 3, photo 2, line 1:
Grade: V1
Climber: Dave Comer
Description: Sit start, surprisingly few surprisingly easy moves on surprisingly large holds.

Area 3, photo 3, line 2:
Grade: V3
Climber: Dave Comer
Description: Start low as far right as you can reasonably go, then traverse left for a top-out in the groove.