New Routes – Meirionnydd

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

See also the Mid-Wales Climbing web site for bouldering, sport, slate and new routes information.

Note: There is a definitive coverage of the climbing at Pen Bilis/Lochtyn in Pembroke North.

A downloadable New Routes document for the Rhinog Area is available thanks to Terry Taylor

Quick links to Crag Areas

Craig Nant Dwr Oer Craig Rhiwarth
Craig y Merched Craig y Gwynt
Craig y Clipiau Craig y Hyrddod
Craig Dinas Clogwyn y Bustach
Clogwyn yr Oen Craig yr Wrysgan
Cyfrwy Carreg y Foel Gron
Craig Newydd Craig y Tonnau
Cadair Idris Craig y Penmaen
Rhinog Fach Llechau’r Llyn
Vague Dome Pinacl
Gareth-Lwyd Dol-dal-Owen
Y Garth Moelwyn Bach
Craig Ddu

Routes are listed under each crag area.

Craig Nant Dwr Oer

Craig Nant Dwr Oer

Hocus Pocus Left Hand

15m, VS, 1 star
31-Aug-2013, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start: See midwales climbing website

4c, Climb Hocus Pocus to gain the half-height slab, then traverse left (below the headwall of Hey Presto) to climb an intermittent thin crackline left of this headwall. Where the angle eases finish slightly rightwards.

Additional info:
This crag (GR715 455, above Blaenau) is not in the current guidebook, but details are available on the midwales climbing website. Other routes done at the same crag : Hey Presto (considered E1 5b, 1 star), Expelliarmus (considered VS 4c, 2 stars) and Mumbo Jumbo (considered HVS 5a, 1 star).

Craig Rhiwarth

Craig Rhiwarth

A Pitch or Two

30m, VD
23-May-2010, Sven Hassall and Barry Whale, AL respectively
Start: Above the Left-Hand Lower Tier there are a series of broken continuation walls, these are bounded on the left side by a large slate cave/roof. Just to the right of this cave is a right facing corner.

Climb the corner, bridging at first then lay-backing on the excellent crack and slab above. Above the crack, turn half right and pad your way up the slabs above to belay at the back wall (VD 15m). An escape can now be made to the left or:
Traverse 4m left to the left edge of the continuation wall above. Step up and turn the corner to climb the slab above, keeping just right of centre, until the Rowan tree. Pass the tree either on the left or the right and belay above (D 15m).

Additional info:
Both pitches have merit and although carrying a little vegetation at the moment, would clean up to be great routes. They may best be climbed as an enchainment starting at Silwood; this tops out where A Pitch or Two starts.

Craig Rhiwarth > First Crag

Johnny Takes a Tumble

25m E1 5a
26-Mar-2012, Stuart Day, John Martin
Start below the centre of a narrow buttress right of Bionic Woman and the vegetated gully.

Climb onto a ledge below an open square cut groove, go up the left hand side of this groove, then diagonally right across blocks to finish carefully up the right arête on dodgy rock then heather. A preplaced rope is recommended for the finish.

Additional info:
An alternative start goes from the foot of the gully to the ledge. I fell of this on the first atempt hence the name.

Craig Rhiwarth > First Crag

George

12m E1 5b
16-Apr-2012, stuart day, john martin
Start: On the righthand side of the crag is a triangular cave start here.

Climb the crack just left of the cave for 4 mmetres,traverse right under the overhangs to a short groove, go up this to the top.

Craig Rhiwarth > First Crag

Bungle

16m HS
16-Apr-2012, John Martin, Stuart Day
Start: Start down right of George and Zippy at the lowest point of the crag

Climb the lower short buttress to a ledge,then climb steeply leftwards to the righthand end of the Zippy ledge, step left and finish as for that route.

Craig Rhiwarth

Zippy

10m E1 5b
16-Apr-2012, Stuart Day, John Martin.
Start in the cave.

Pull through the roof of the cave into the steep cornergroove climb this to a ledge and finish up past a small tree.

Craig Rhiwarth > First Crag

Snowflake

20m, E34 6a, 1 star
13-Jan-2013, Philip Wilkinson, Stuart Day
Start to the right of Mismael.

Takes a direct line up the compact wall to the right of Mismael. Joins Wingeing Pom at a large ledge.

Additional info:
Gear pre-placed on abseil, well, it was snowing.

Craig Rhiwarth > Upper Tier

Achy Flaky Heart

11m HVS
13-Apr-2013, Stuart Day
Start: Approx 75m above the finish of Buzzards Nest Crack there is a square wall of rock.

The route follows a line of weakness leftwards across the heart of the wall. Start 2 m left of the obvious wide crack. Climb the wall to a large pocket now make a rising traverse leftwards following the line of least resistance on good holds until forced to move more directly up the wall on in-cut but suspect flakes to the top. Take care where you place your feet. Grade, maybe HVS 4b, fairly easy climbing but on less than reliable rock with the crux at the top on the worst rock.

Additional info:
Solo, although there is gear in the weakness.

Craig y Merched

Craig y Merched > Rhinos Buttress

Fig Arete

12m VS 4c
09-Jul-2005, John Martin, Cath Sulivan
Approach/Descent:
We struggled to find the crag and feel the guidebook description is incorrect and should read as follows: After seeing the cottage on the left (approx half a mile away) turn right on a forestry track (no stile). Continue along this for approx 350 metres turning left up a stone path. Follow the obvious path through bracken to the crag crossing over a stone wall.

Start just right of zig zag, climb direct to an arete which is followed to the top.

Craig y Merched > Rhinos Buttress

Rhino Hunting

14m HVS 5a
09-Jul-2005, John Martin, Cath Sulivan
Approach/Descent:
[See Fig Arete]

Climb the excellent slabby wall just right of Horn of Plenty carefully avoiding the loose block under the first bulge.

Craig y Merched > Rhinos Buttress

Pigs, Twigs and Figs

12m HVS 5a
09-Jul-2005, Rob Gray, Chris Dale
Approach/Descent:
See Fig Arete

Start just left of Horn of Plenty, following the direct line to the top.

Craig y Merched > Rhinos Buttress

Rhino’s Bum

18m, VS 4b
16-May-2004, Nick Eaton, Tim Gledhill
Start: 5m left of Naked Dissent is a rounded buttress with a tapering slab above.

Climb the centre of the rounded buttress and continue to the top of the tapering slab.

Craig y Merched > Rhinos Buttress

Pachyderm Slab

15m, S 4a
16-May-2004, Tim Gledhill, Nick Eaton
Start: Left of Horn of Plenty is a ledgey wall with a heather crack in the centre.

Climb the slabby wall immediately left of the arete of Horn of Plenty and right of the heather crack.

Craig y Gwynt

Craig y Gwynt

Sun Baked

10m HVS 5a
10-Jul-2005, John Martin, Cath Sulivan

Start right of Don’t Even Think of It up a little arete move rightwards to a block. Then up via an odd protruding foothold to finish leftwards through the final bulge.

Additional info:
The central heather filled crack no longer has any heather and is now Heathers Demise (9m HS 4b, Chris Dale, Rob Gray 10/07/2005).

Craig y Gwynt

Rule of No. 6

9M HVS 5a
17-Sep-2020, A Clarke, J Martin
A few metres right of “Don’t Fall!” is a clean face, shortly before the little undercut buttress. Start beneath a short crack below a small bulge. Climb up to the bulge (crux), surmount it and continue on jugs direct to the top. (Name suggested by new pandemic restrictions and the view of distant Portmeirion, setting for The Prisoner TV series.

Craig y Clipiau

Craig y Clipiau

Pigeon Fanciers

45m VS 4c
17-Jul-2005, John Martin, Carol Umarova
Approach/Descent:
3 metres right of Jones Crack is a much thinner crack. Start directly below this crack just above the path.

  1. 20m . Climb up blocky rock to a stance in a little corner below the crack.
  2. 25m 4c. Climb the crack direct to finish up 3 little corners to the top.
Craig y Hyrddod

Craig y Hyrddod p 174

Ram Slab

15m VD
09-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and right of Visions of a Melon.

Climb the slabby right flank of the buttress, trending slightly rightwards; pleasant.

Craig y Hyrddod p 174

Puckoon

12m VS
09-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Above Slabby Buttress is an upper tier; which for the most part is green and vegetated. However, at its extreme right-hand end a two-tier tower gives two reasonably clean routes! Start just right of the foot of the tower.

4b Make a steep pull into the crack formed by the right side of the large block and continue to a sloping ledge. Finish up the thin crack just left of the blunt nose above.

Craig y Hyrddod p 174

Airy Fairy

11m S
09-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Puckoon.

Pull up a steep groove to gain the sloping ledge. Move up to the ledge on the right and follow the blunt nose to the top.

Craig y Hyrddod p 174

Hob Nob

7m S
09-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: To the right of Nob Direct is a short SW-facing wall. Start 4 metres right of Nob Direct.

Step off a block and climb up and leftwards to gain a shallow corner with a wobbly spike. Pull through the small overlap and continue to the top.

Craig y Hyrddod p 174

Rich Tea

Length/grade/stars : 6m VD
09-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Hob Nob.

Climb up the wall to finish up the microscopic crack. The “smoothest” section of wall immediately right gives Digestif ( VD 090410).

Craig Dinas

Craig Dinas > South Cliff

A Swifts Whim

75m HVS 5a/b. 1 star (possibly?)
24-Jun-2006, R. G. Greenwood, Miss K. A. Spinney
Approach/Descent:
Approach to the right hand side of the crag as for Groove Slab.

  1. 5a/b. Start up Groove Slab (4c) to beneath the overhangs. Move up and right onto the steep overhangs by means of a mantleshelf clipping a peg of unknown origin on the way. Continue across using huge underclings and jams with a large sloping ledge for your feet – very reminiscient of Hyll-Drem!! Continue to the end of the ramp and turn the final steep groove onto an easier slab. Belay above to the left of an old (smelly) owls nest!
  2. 4b. Continue up the steep corner/groove using massive holds to belay at the top of the crag.

Additional info:
Some old pegs (who knows where they came from/ when they were placed!?!). All climbed onsight – it looked a lot more fun than Groove Slab and later, upon inspecting the guidebook, discovered it was not recorded (although it has possibly been climbed before). No known repeats.

Craig Dinas > South Cliff

Oldtimers’ Fugue

Length/grade/stars : 40 metres, HVS 5a
03-May-2010, Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal
Start: Above and to the left of “Desire” is a vegetated ledge. Start on this.

Move delicately up right from the ledge to gain a traverse line trending leftwards below steeper rock. Follow the traverse line to a ledge beneath a prominent V-notch (thread). Climb into the notch then go right for a few feet to escape the overhang. Follow clean then dirtier rock direct to the top.

Crag Dinas > South Cliff

Right of Way

43m, HVS, 5a
17-Oct-2010, Simon Cardy, Richard Wheeldon
Start: Good and well protected climbing up the rib just right of Scrub Way. Start below the twin cracks one metre right of the start of Scrub Way.

Climb up to the thick horizontal quartz band at 2 metres and climb the twin cracks. Climb directly up the steep rib above these and another easier rib on the right to finish up the slabs above.

Additional info:
We thought the Dinas Mawr Eliminate start is incorrectly described and probably takes the wall ‘left’ of Scrub Way not right. It was also difficult to identify what was meant by the ‘green scoop’.

Craig Dinas

Till toppen

16m E1 5c ☆☆
24-Aug-2021, Mike Hammill and Maddy Raven
Craig Dinas. On the recently developed Black Wall to the right of the main crag and accessed by a new path along the base. 5 routes have been climbed here by members of the Chester Club. In the middle of the wall is a birch tree below a groove (Too do Groove/ Ramp escape). To the right of the birch tree is a prominent diagonal crack in the lower bulge. Till toppen climbs up to this (care with a flake), then up the crack (large camalots) to a rest before climbing the shallow groove above (this is to the right of the finish to Ramp Escape) and then left when the rock runs out to the abseil point. Climbed on sight, no cleaning and with loose rock being removed while climbing. Good climbing requiring quick reactions and nifty footwork.

Clogwyn y Bustach

Clogwyn y Bustach > Lower Right-Hand Wall

Beaver Slab

36m VD
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Forty metres right of Bear Trapper’s Hat, and 18 metres up and right of the secret bouldering area; easy angled slabs sweep down to within 2 metres of the stone wall, start here.

Climb the easy-angled slab and the steeper white rib above to a grassy finish.

Additional info:
The route Bear Trapper’s Hat is on the Mid-Wales Website!

Clogwyn yr Oen

Clogwyn yr Oen (p 185)

Dark Sun

16m D
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Clogwyn yr Oen is bounded on its right by a waterfall which cascades down a multi-coloured (red on the left, white on the right) slab; Approximately 60 metres above the road. Start immediately right of the waterfall at the foot of a dark streak running up the multi-coloured slab.

Follow the dark streak all the way, finishing very near the water Descend by following the heather terrace rightwards!

Clogwyn yr Oen (p 185)

Man U

17m S
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Dark Sun at two blocks.

Climb the red slab up and leftwards, until a blanker section gives a moment’s hesitation before the heather terrace is reached.

Clogwyn yr Oen (p 185)

Newton Heath

17m VD
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Man U.

Follow the crackline and short corner to gain the heather.

Clogwyn yr Oen (p 185)

Glazed

17m VS
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Newton Heath.

4b. Climb the red and white slab easily at first, then more delicately to gain a small ledge below the blunt nose in the centre of the upper overlap. Move right to a suspect spike and pull over the overlap to gain the heather.

Clogwyn yr Oen (p 185)

White Fang

16m S
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Glazed.

Climb the slab up and rightwards before pulling through the lower overlap. Continue to where the upper overlap peters out and gain the heather to finish.

Clogwyn yr Oen (p 185)

All Washed Up

40m VS
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Dark Sun.

4c. A left to right traverse, giving a few unsuspected, serious moves. Follow Dark Sun for 3 metres, then move up and rightwards to gain a series of footholds traversing horizontally right, and follow these onto Glazed. Move right, up and right again above the lower overlap of White Fang (all very delicate) until moves right gain the heather.

Craig yr Wrysgan

Craig yr Wrysgan (p 194)

Transform

10m VS
09-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 100 metres to the right of Y Gilfach is a large buttress with a steep nose comprising blind cracks and grooves. On its right are wave-like bulges and right again an attractive sheet of slab, terminated by a grassy gully which transforms into a short, easy corner crack near the top. The following two routes take lines up the right-hand side of the sheet of slab. Start at the foot of the corner crack in the grassy gully.

4a. Climb the slab, keeping left of the rounded groove; to a worrying finish

Craig yr Wrysgan (p 194)

Wry Smile

14m HS
09-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start half a metre left of Transform.

4a. Climb the sinuous crack until it ends, then trend slightly leftwards up the slab; with this time a slightly more positive finish.

Craig yr Wrysgan (p 194)

Red Steps

30m VD
09-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 120 metres down and right of Wry Smile the rocky NE spur of Craig yr Wrysgan teminates on the First Level at a rounded buttress; overlooking a small llyn and a tiny clump of fir trees. A stone wall abuts the left side of the buttress; above which are four separate trees. Start 15 metres up and left of the stone wall at a red, pocketed slab.

Disjointed, but fairly pleasant climbing! Climb the red slab and rib above to a heather ledge. Above, slabs and a steep, short wall give access to the finishing quartz-blotched wall.

Craig yr Wrysgan (p 194)

No Hands

16m S
09-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 35 metres above the top of Red Steps is a whaleback buttress with a steep lower section. Start at an embedded gritstone boulder just right of centre.

Step off the gritstone boulder and climb the wall to gain the easing slab.

Craig yr Wrysgan (p 194)

Whale of a Time

15m VS
09-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of No Hands.

4c. Climb the steeper wall to a ledge; then follow the easing rib and slab on the right to the top.

Craig yr Wrysgan (p 194)

Twmpathau

33m S
09-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 30 metres right of Red Steps and 8 metres right of the slate footbridge; at the lowest point of the buttress is an easy-angled rib, start here.

Climb the easy-angled rib and its two steeper rises above to gain a glacis. Twin, thin cracks lead to easier ground and the top.

Cyfrwy

Cyfrwy > East side

Variation winter start to Cyfrwy Arete

(Leah variation)
115 m, Grade II; 1 star
01-Nov-2008, C.Wells, M.Leah
Start: Approach as for the original winter start to Cyfrwy Arete on eastern side.

  1. 30 m (II) Begin just left of the original winter gully start of the Cyfrwy. Climb up initially pleasantly-angled ledgy turf to belay at a substantial ledge and huge spike. (The gap behind ‘The Table’ can also be reached from here by following the original second pitch of the winter Cyfrwy Arete which shares the same spike belay)
  2. 30 m (IIIII) Climb out left to a rocky steepening which gives some pause for thought before the angle eases. Climb to splintered rocky outcrops to belay.
  3. 25 m (II) Continue up turfy ramplines that zig-zag through the increasingly rocky ground to gain the Arete at a small niche with a dizzying drop down its north-west side. Continue along the Arete to the top as for the original route.

Additional info:
Turf well frozen, copious snow on route.

Cyfrwy

Obsession Direct Start

45m, HVS, 5a **
18-Apr-2003, Mike Lewis, Kevin Davies
Start: A direct line through the overhang right of the normal route. A great improvement on the original line having solid, quality rock. Start as for Obsession.

As for Obsession for 12 metres to the large jammed block, then step right and follow the groove up to the overhang. Gain a ledge up on the left and either pull up direct or step across right to another ledge, and then pull up (easier). Follow the cracked groove until forced out right. Easily up to the in-situ thread (belay) on the second pitch of the original route.

Carreg y Foel Gron

Carreg y Foel Gron

Over Inspired

25m VS 4c
19-Jun-2010, John Martin,Sandra Garrington
Start down right of Elephants Crawl at a pointed block

Climb the v groove above the block,then slighty right up pockets to a grass ledge,with gear in a crack on the right climb the nose above to finish

Additional info:
On sight

Carreg y Foel Gron

Bolder Conections

27m S
19-Jun-2010, John Martin,Sandra Garrington
Start: Around the back of the main section opposite the quarry, towards the left hand side of this brocken buttress is a line of connected slabs

Climb the first free standing boulder to a narrow rib,this leeds to a slab and a foot ledge below the final bold slab.

Additional info:
On sight

Carreg Y Foel Gron > Upper Crag

Sheep God

15m, HVS 4c 1 star
15-Aug-2010, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start: About 2 m right of ‘Not Enough Babes’ is a prominent slim left facing groove. Start here.

Climb the slim groove and gain a grassy footledge at it’s top. Step right then up the steep wall to a wide break. Pull onto the pocketed headwall abve the break, and climb it, trending slightly left to the top.

Additional info:
Climbed onsight, without prior cleaning. Could do with a bit more of a clean! Star rating assumes it is clean. Comments on other routes on this crag : Not Enough Babes is not E1 5c – maybe HVS 5a ? Slab Direct feels more like E1 5a, than 5b.

Carreg y Foel Gron

Tic Tac Toe

10m, VS 4b
25-Apr-2011, Stuart Day, Carol Umarova, Vicky Holmes
Start: On the approach to the main cliff head leftwards round towards the quarry described as the upper tier in the current guide book (p 220). You will immediately come to a collection of large boulders. Tic tack toe is on the clean wall behind two of the largest boulders. Scramble up between the boulders to a small sunny terrace below some thin right to left slanting cracks. Descent is down the grassy ramp on the right hand side that joins the terrace.

Start beneath three obvious right to left slanting cracks, the left hand of these is the widest. Use the cracks (good small gear) and the small positive (sharp) pock marks to climb to the ledge. step right and finish up the short wall. Belay in the wall behind and obvious stake.

Additional info:
Climbed onsight. Must have done this before as there was a stake in place for the belay?

Carreg y Foel Gron

Human Acoustics

12m, E1
02-May-2011, Stuart Day, Carol Umarova, Vicky Holmes
Start: See tick tac Toe.

E1 5bc, On the left hand side of the terrace is a shallow right facing corner that leads directly to a bilberry bush at mid height. The upper wall leans over this and is split by 2 finger cracks. Ascend the cornercrack towards the bilberry bush and move up and right to the large break. Stand in the break, step left and attack the steep cracks to a good ledge 3 meters higher. Finish up the short headwall to a furry top out or step of right on to the large loose block. Small Camspike belay in the wall behind.

Additional info:
Good climbing, better than it looks. Tried it onsight the week before but it needed cleaning. Returned and cleaned the route before the ascent.

Carreg Y Foel Gron

Tic Tac Toe – second pitch

8m, HVS, 5a
05-Jun-2011, Denise Forster, Simon Needham
Start: This lies above and slightly right of the finish of Tac Tac Toe, approached via that route, and giving a good extension.

From the belay on the grass ramp at the top of Tic Tac Toe, step down then move right on a narrow rock ledge to a left-slanting crack in a steep groove. Follow this crack and groove, with an awkward move past a slight bulge near the top.

Additional info:
On sight. I felt that Tic Tac Toe was possibly easy HVS, 5a, rather than VS, being quite sustained and a little fingery. Reasonable protection though, and very nice climbing either way.

Carreg Y Foel Gron

Morwynion Corner

12m VS+ 1 star
30-Aug-2015, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start: On the upper tier, a prominent corner left of the left arête of the ‘Too Many Children’ wall gives the line of the route.

Pull up to a jug on the left arête then swing strenuously right and up into the corner. Proceed steeply on good holds to the top (holds on the left wall make gaining the heathery finishing ledge easier).

Additional info:
Lightly cleaned by abseil – mostly pulling bracken out of the back of the corner crack – though the route would still be climbable with this in-situ!

Carreg Y Foel Gron

Over the Void

18m VD one star
17-Sep-2015, Dave Neville, Graham Uney
Start: Up and right of Bolder Connections, behind boulders, and below an obvious wide flake crack.

Gain the slab to the left of the flake crack, then climb the wide crack into the upper groove to reach the void. Step over the void and climb the groove directly to the gap in the overhang, and pull easily through this to finish.

Additional info:
A bit lichenous, but some traffic will cleat this.

Carreg Y Foel Gron

Bold Over

20m S 2 stars
06-Oct-2015, Graham Uney (solo)
Start: On the back of the knoll holding the Main Crag, opposite the mine workings. Start behind the boulders right of Bold Connections, immediately left of the start of Over the Void.

Climb the hanging slab just left of the start of Over the Void, then up a blunt arête to a break. Step up onto the sharp arête to the right of the finish of Bold Connections, and follow this boldly to the top.

Additional info:
A really good climb, on great, though slightly lichenous rock.

Carreg Y Foel Gron

Stepped Ridge

25m VD
06-Oct-2015, Graham Uney (solo)
Start: Facing the Main Crag there is a broad slope on the left leading up to the little buttress that is used by groups. Across this slope, and at about the same height at the foot of the Main Crag, is a ridge broken by ledges. Start at a groove at the foot of this ridge.

Climb the steep groove to the first ledge. Short, easy steps now lead up the crest of the ridge to another short steep wall to finish. Stay on the ridge throughout.

Additional info:
A good introductory route to multi-pitch climbing, as the route can be done in three or four pitches if you so desire. A single pitch also makes sense!

Carreg Y Foel Gron

Novitiate

15m D
06-Oct-2015, Graham Uney (solo)
Start: On the back of the knoll holding the Main Crag, to the right of the start of Over the Void. There is an obvious wide crack splitting the buttress, with an easy-angled rib to the right.

Start at the bottom right edge of the rib. Climb this rib to the top.

Additional info:
There is a short, steep wall above the top of the rib, which I didn’t climb. I scrambled off to the right instead, but the steep wall would be worth a look.

Carreg Y Foel Gron

House of Cards

10m HS 4b 1 star
06-Oct-2015, Graham Uney (solo)
Start: On Miner’s Buttress, to the right of the open adits, there is a short orange-coloured wall with a natural outcrop immediately right. Start at the front of the right hand-side of this outcrop, below a ledge.

Climb the quartz face and step right onto the ledge (careful of the poised debris). Climb up into a left sloping scoop, then follow this scoop leftwards to the top.

Additional info:
There is a lot of rubble on the mid-way ledge, and at the crag top. Care is needed here. No obvious belay anchors at the top.

Carreg y Foel Gron

25-Jul-2017, J Martin, A Clarke

Crackin’ Rock

25m E1 5b *
25-Jul-2017, J Martin, A Clarke
Start: 2 metres right of Moon Rock, on the steep pocketed wall below the ramp of Elephant’s Crawl.

Start 2m right of Moon Rock, up a thin discontinuous crack, passing a horizontal break. Take the small roof on its left, then go direct up the wall above on pockets and follow easy cracks to the top.

Additional info:
The description of Moon Rock (E1 5a), along with those for other more recent additions to the crag at E1 and E2, is on the UKClimbing database.

Sheep Shelter

24m S *
Start: At the foot of Elephant’s Crawl.

Start at the foot of Elephant’s Crawl and climb the groove on its left. From the top of this, take the good crack, passing a first overhang on the left and taking a second direct. Then follow the crack diagonally left in its entirety.

Additional info:
No doubt parts of this have been climbed on outdoor centre top ropes but the now cleaned continuous line is logical and worthy of being a named route in its own right.

Craig Newydd

Craig Newydd

Gwydyr Rib

20m, S
02-Jul-2010, Allan McDonald
Start: As per guidebook description, the route climbs the slab and rib on the left of the buttress (facing in). The route starts at the lowest point of the buttress.

Climb the short slab onto the rib proper which leads pleasantly to a vegetated groove where one climbs the left rib above. Well protected.

Additional info:
Solo, on sight !

Craig y Tonnau

Craig y Tonnau

Ysgol Fwsoglyd

15m, Hard Difficult; 1
05-May-2008, Colin Wells, Mark Leah
Start: As for original Meirionnydd guide approach/descent instructions

Start approximately 3m to the left of Dentist’s Slab beneath a crackline  which superficially appears to be discouragingly mossy but which in fact conceals a plethora of clean hidden holds. Romp up the steep ladder of enormous jugs directly to the top.

Additional info:
Onsight ground-up

Craig y Tonnau

Llech Fudur

12m, VD
05-May-2008, Mark Leah, Colin Wells
Start: As for original Meirionnydd guide approach/descent instructions

At the far left end of the crag, not far from the descent, is a broken scoop with a short slab above. Climb this, passing the scoop on the left or right before climbing the slab to the top.

Additional info:
Onsight, ground-up

Craig y Tonnau (p 227)

Coed Rib

11m VD
08-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Llech Fedur.

Climb the rib forming the left edge of the main wall.

Craig y Tonnau (p 227)

Mur Gwydyr

15m VS
08-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Robbin’s Right Hand and 1 metre left of Diane’s Approval.

4c. Climb through the waves via hidden fingerholds and reach the large circular pocket with some relief. Continue direct and finish above a short left-facing corner.

Additional info:
Both Ysgol Fwsoglyd and Llech Fedur were repeated and the grades confirmed! Incidentally Diane’s Approval is 6 metres right of Central Crack not 12 metres.

Craig y Tonnau (p 227)

The Tooth Fairy

43m S
11-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Dentist’s Slab.

A natural left to right girdle of the main wall, following the lower of thw white bands. Follow Dentist’s Slab for 7 metres to reach the first white band. Go rightwards along the band for 6 metres until a 2 metre step-up gains the next band. Follow this into the crack system of Diane’s Approval; using the best combination of hand and foot levels! Move right and up to finish as for Spring Lightning.

Craig y Tonnau

Monday Munch

15m VS 4c
31-May-2010, John Martin,Sandra Garrington
Start just left of Diane,s Approval

Step up to a pocket and thread move up left to a biger pocket then strait up to the top

Additional info:
On sight.

Cadair Idris

Cadair Idris > Cyfrwy

Yr Ysgol Dywarchen

125m, IV,
28-Nov-2010, Colin Wells, Mark Leah
Start location:
Approach as for Rib & Slab climb. Descent is by following the continuation of Cyfrwy Arête and then descending.

The climb follows the thin band of steep turf soaring straight up to the Cyfrwy Arête in a shallow corner-groove system immediately to the left of Rib & Slab climb. Protection is generally poor and Warthogs are recommended. (It is essential that the turf is well frozen before attempting this route, both for security and ecological considerations.)

  1. 50m. (3). The climb starts in a broad, turf-filled bay with a short steeper section about half-way up. Belay in the basin above (‘Juniper Bay’ of Rib & Slab). In situ rusty peg and karabiner (probably from Rib & Slab ascents)
  2. 35m. (4). The groove rears up to about 75-80 degrees and thins. Delicate moves are required with sometimes poor protection. Belay on small, dustbin lid-sized flat area of turf next to crack in right wall about 3m below the final steep section.
  3. 40m. (3). final few metres of steep turf above the belay leads to an easing in angle. Interesting climbing with increasingly better protection leads up to the knife-edge section of the Cyfrwy Arete.

Additional info:
On sight, ground up.

Craig y Penmaen

Craig y Penmaen

Great Craic

11m D
15-Aug-2014, Simon Ball, Aaron Ball
Start: Craig y Penmaen (419m) sits 1km east of the A470 between Trawsfynydd and Coed y Brenin Forest. Access to the west side of the hill is gained by leaving the A470 at Bronaber and going east through Trawsfynydd Holiday Village. Go past the turn for the Rhiw Goch Inn and watch for a single track road on the right just before the brow of the hill. This is an engineered track which dates back to when this area was an army camp and it soon turns to mostly grass. Pass through two gates and the crag becomes visible on the left before the third gate is reached. At a good pace this takes half an hour from the Holiday Village. Alternatively the track is passable with care in a vehicle and there is a conveniently situated hard, grassy and car-sized area to the right of the track. The west face rises in tiers with several horizontal bands of rock of varying height, separated by deep ledges which are heavily vegetated with mostly heather. Each band is broken at intervals by vertical cracks, many of which are also vegetated. The climbing starts at 360m altitude, with the base of the crag only a few minutes walk from the track. The area between the two dry stone walls is heavily vegetated, however a few simple lines exist, perhaps more with cleaning. The area to the right of the dry stone wall on the right is better.

Climb the deep crack immediately to the right of the dry stone wall, rising between two flat blocks and emerging on a wide ledge. Two rock spikes make good anchors. Return to the base by climbing up to the next grassy ledge and traversing left.

Additional info:
Beautiful views of the Rhinogs on the other side of the valley.

Rhinog Fach

Rhinog Fach (p 328)

Stroll Across the Sea

60m, HS, one star
24-Jul-2012, John H Bull
Start: As for Walking on Water

  1. 20m 4a. Start as for Walking on Water, but keep traversing past the large central caterpillar to a crack and possible belay.
  2. 40m 4b. Climb the narrowing slab moving slightly R, tricky at first, to a higher slab with poorer protection. Move left to reach the big heather ramp (described wrongly in the guide as an overlap), then straight up to the top. Sugar and Spikes (35m, VD, one star) starts in the same place as Walking on Water, but takes a leftwards-slanting crack system past a prominent spike, to reach the heather ramp up and L. Cross rightwards to a higher slab and finish up this. Dry Red (18m VD) takes the small red slab on the R, direct, starting at the foot of the heather overlap.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Rhinog Fach

Landlubber

25m S 1 Star
07-Sep-2014, Simon Needham, Denise Forster, Tony Noonan
Start: Right of the slabs which dip into Llyn Hywel is a line of slabs running up the hillside and facing west. Towards the top end of these (where they are at their highest), there is an overhang high up, and where this fades at it’s left side is a vague line of cracks which reach the ground in the form of a very thin crack.

4b, Climb the slab via the thin crack – delicate – to better holds. continue pleasantly in the same line, passing the overhang on the left and finish slightly rightwards.

Llechau’r Llyn

Llechau’r Llyn > Cwm Hywel

Kill the Boot

25m VD
25-Jul-2015, Dave Williams, Tim Morley
Start: Left of Landlubber, directly below some dubious-looking flakes.

Climb up to the flakes, then trend right and up to a steepening and climb this directly to the top.

Llechau’r Llyn > Cwm Hywel

Call this Summer?

20m VD
25-Jul-2015, Dave Williams, Tim Morley
Start: Right of Landlubber there is a stepped, sloping break. Start just right of the break by an obvious thin crack.

Climb the crack to the top.

Additional info:
Landlubber also climbed and checked. FA grade and 1 star quality confirmed.

Vague Dome

Vague Dome (p 345)

Reject Crockery

13m, VD
23-Jul-2012, John H Bull
Start 3m left of The Catch

Climb the slabby rib direct on nice rock. Escapable but good moves. A similar rib, Broken China (10m VD) climbs flakes and a rib 2m R of The Three Words, keeping L of heather at the top.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Pinacl

Pinacl

Lower Pinacl Wall

35m, VS 4c
06-Mar-2011, Allan McDonald, Neil Metcalfe
Start: From the dam access road a small buttress can be seen on the right,just before the closed mine entrance and before the stream. Head up the steep fern covered hillside to arrive in a few minutes. Start on the right of a small grassy bay. Descent is to the left (facing in) down a small gully

From the right move up to reach a leftward leading ramp beneath the bulging wall. Follow this for a few metres then move up the steep bulging wall passing a large pocket and further good holds to arrive on a small ledge. Continue up more easily to a large ledge and a spike belay. Well protected.

Additional info:
On sight led

Gareth-Lwyd

Gareg-Lwyd

Megalith Ridge

40m, D
25-Jul-2012, John H Bull
Start: Far to the R of Garreg-Lwydag (down and R of Vague Dome) is another buttress at the same level, forming the L wall of a gully (628256). The easiest approach is from below, via Dol-dal-Owen.

Climb the ridge up to, and between, the large square blocks, to easier ground (40,m). Megalith Slab (40m S ) takes the bold slab to the left, direct to the headwall then slep L to finish up arched ledges (a nice hand-crack could form a direct finish). 100m to the R, part the gully on the hillside is another small crag above Dol-dal-Owen. Horny (12m VD), climbs the central slabby arete on good holds.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Dol-dal-Owen

Dol-dal-Owen (p 356)

Swab Slab

8m VD
25-Jul-2012, John H Bull
Start: Slab 3m left of the ‘unmistakable offwith’ mentioned in the guide (actually a deep chimney)

Climb direct up a flake past a break to the top. Also: Gash on Delivery (9m S, the L arête of the chimney), Gash for Questions (9m S, the R arête of the chimney), Left Scoop Crack (10m D) and Right Scoop Crack (10m VD) climb the scoops and cracks 3m L of The Incision. All on perfect rock.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Y Garth

Y Garth

I’m Sure, I’m Sure

5m D
21-Mar-2021, Alex Riley (solo onsight)
The left hand of the trio of cracks on the west facing slab of Summit Buttress. Probably climbed before.

Y Garth

It Was Done Before

5m S 4a
06-Nov-2020, Alex Riley
The central of the trio of cracks on the west facing slab of Summit Buttress, tricky move at half height. Probably climbed before.

Y Garth

Everybody wants to be the first

6m VD
06-Nov-2020, Alex Riley
The right hand of the trio of cracks on the west facing slab of Summit Buttress. Probably climbed before.

Y Garth

Central Slab

8m VS 4a
06-Nov-2020, Alex Riley
Climb the middle of the blank slab between Everybody Wants To Be The First and Passing of Time Direct.

Y Garth

Passing of Time Direct

8m VS 4c ☆
06-Nov-2020, Alex Riley
Climb the left hand side of the arête, starting on big holds until Passing of Time is joined. Not as good as the original route.

Y Garth

Passing of Time

18m HVS 5a ☆☆
20-May-2020, Alex Riley
Start at the right hand side of the overhanging buttress, climb the diagonal (almost horizontal) hand crack until you reach the arête, make a tricky move to gain the ledge and finish easily on big holds.

Y Garth

Lockdown Lethargy

12m E4 6a ☆☆
01-Jun-2020, Alex Riley
Start below the large v shaped cracks. Climb the wide right hand crack for a few meters before making challenging moves along the thin break/seam until you reach the old peg. From here move up and slightly right to decent holds, then again up and slightly right again (crux) to gain the steep exit groove.

Y Garth

Isolation Motivation

12m E5 6b
08-Jun-2020, Alex Riley
An eliminate line. Start as for Passage of Hands until the first break is reached, from here move across and right to the bulge/boss of rock sticking out and from there make a long reach to gain the thin seam/break and old peg. From here make a long reach to gain the good holds on Lockdown Lethargy, then traverse left under the roof and arrange good protection (large cam and small wire) before wildly launching out to holds on the lip of the middle of the roof. Exit with difficulty.

Y Garth

Party on Wayne

01-Jan-1970,
From the descent gully turn left (east) and follow the bottom of the crag for approx 75-100m until you reach an obvious crack in the middle of a large slab (see photo).

P1 30m Climb the crack crossing a small steepening until the crack peters out, traverse up and right to the tree. From here climb past the tree following easy ground to a tree belay at the foot of a roof capped slab.

P2 15m Traverse the break under the roof until just before a tree, climb steeply up and slightly left on good holds. To descend either walk back to the main descent gully or follow the edge of the crag downhill to the west and make a 40m abseil to the floor.

Moelwyn Bach

Moelwyn Bach

Môr a Mynydd

18m E3 6a ☆
27-May-2021, Alex Riley, Rachel Pearce (2nd)
Climb the crack to the left of “the slot machine” for 6 meters, then mantle onto the large ledge. Climb the slab and crack on the right to reach a small ledge after a few meters, then climb the steep crack to the top.

Moelwyn Bach

Crib Gwcw

50m E4 5c ☆☆
02-Jun-2021, Dave Rudkin, Fran Cavanagh
The arête left of Man in the Moon. Start up the steady slab (as for Man In The Moon), traverse left to below the arête. Initially climb the arête and corner on the left until it’s possible to pull onto the arête proper and quickly move around to the right onto a shelf. Once stood on the shelf, bold moves lead up the arête, utilising the two good big pockets. When almost at the top of the arête, commit around to the left and climb the last few moves heart-in-mouth to the sanctuary of a mega pocket. Surmount the final slab then follow easy ground to the top.

Craig Ddu

Craig Ddu

Llengog

50m HVS 5b ☆
22-Jul-2021, Andy Taylor Sam Hawkins
Climb Wellington Club (HVS 5b), then continue up Wysiwig (Bold S, not VD IMO) Then the new bit Start 5m right of the slab / ramp on the excellent top pitch of Zenturion. Climb an undercut scoop slightly leftwards, and from its top move up and left with gritstone like climbing, moving left to stand on a rounded spike. Bold finish straight up from here to finish on the sloping shelf. Walk off right from here. HVS 5b, 4a, 5a. (Zenturion is best started up Wysiwig,and the top pitch of this is excellent, exposed, and well worth climbing. Topo photo attached, Yellow – Zenturion, Pink – Wysiwig, Blue – Llengog (Welsh for Legionary)