New Routes – Lundy

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

PLEASE NOTE: Abseil stakes are NOT to be placed on the grass slope above the descents. Lundy is a SSSI and the approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. If we are to continue enjoying the very good relationship we have with Lundy and the Landmark Trust then climbers are requested not place any further stakes or leave unnecessary abseil slings in place.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

The Devil’s Slide Area > The Devil’s Slide

Route Comment: Satan’s Slip

01-Jan-1970,
Comment by Martin Hore

I remembered slightly better protection possibilities on this from my previous lead around 15 years ago. Possibly something has broken off. After the first just about adequate gear placements at around 10m I found only two further placements – a micro cam and a micro nut – neither of which gave any confidence. The top third was completely unprotected. I climbed solidly, but was quite scared in retrospect contemplating the consequences of a slip. I won’t be leading it again. (Possibly being 67 has something to do with that). I think the seriousness of the pitch deserves stressing with a grade two notches out from standard. Either E2 5a or possibly E1 4c (it’s difficult to say exactly where it warrants 5a if you go the best way). Controversial I know.

Submitted by : Jack Griffiths
Area : Lundy
Crag : Arch Zawn p319
Date of ascent : 07/09/2009
Route name : Codpiece
Length/grade/stars : E1, 5a, 5a, 1star
Climbers : Jack Griffiths, Trystan Jones-Morris
Start location:
The route follows the slabby arete right of “Front Piece” and left of “Today” taken on it’s left, seaward, side.Pitch descriptions:
Pitch One: 19m From the ledge below “Front Piece” step down slightly and right to reach the arete. Head up the arete, small wires protect, in a fine position to reach a flake on the left. Step away from the arete just long enough to gain the top of the flake. Resist the temptation to escape left and make a committing move back onto the arete and up to the ledge and belay. Pitch Two: As for pitch two of “Stop Press”.

Additional info:
No fixed gear used. Style of ascent was On-sight. No known repeats as yet.

Submitted by : Robin Nicholson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Inland Buttress East of Seal Slab Area
Date of ascent : 27/09/2009
Route name : Debbie Jane Fay
Length/grade/stars : 20 metres, Hard Severe, 4a, 1 star
Climbers : Robin Nicholson, Joe Killick
Start location:
Buttress Location: Refer to map diagram in new guide (2008) on page 293 or Debbie Jane Fay. This slab buttress is the second buttress due east inland of the Easter Island shaped blocks by the Ocean PromontorySeal Slab area. On the map in the guide this is shown as one large continuous buttress but it is actually two.Pitch descriptions:
A surprisingly pleasant gritstone-esque excursion up the centre of the slab. Start at the centre of the slab at a hollow sounding flake. Follow the shallow groove up and right to reach the obvious rightward-slanting flake and good holds. Continue direct to a rounded finish. Belay at the ‘bollard’ on top of the buttress.

Additional info:
Free Ascent. No repeat.

Submitted by : David Barlow << Comments on the Guidebook
Area : Lundy 

Beef Buttress: I think the suggested spare rope to get to the 40m abseil at the top of the crag is unnecessary since it is a straightforward scramble. “Steve Bull” E2 5c no longer has a peg on it; there is good gear at that point on the route anyway. “Spare Rib” E1 5b appears to seep badly and the start has lots of green gunge on it so a prolonged dry spell would appear to be necessary to make it a pleasant experience.Punchbowl Cliff: “Return of the Teletubbies” E2 5a,5b felt more like E1 5a, 5a to us.

Devil’s Chimney Cliff: “Overbored” HVS 5a does not have a peg on it and I reckon is closer to E2 5b. While we didn’t climb “Black Looks” and “Shy Tot” the easiest way to access them looked like abseiling down the Shy Tot corner.

Submitted by : Tudor Griffiths << Correction to First Ascent Climbers
Area : Lundy
Crag : Arch Zawn
Date of ascent :
Route name : Late City Extra
Length/grade/stars :
Climbers : SJ Brown and T Griffiths (not ND Griffiths)
Submitted by : Mandy Glanvill
Area : Lundy
Crag : Flying Buttress Area – Battery
Date of ascent : 08/08/2011
Route name : Spotty Dog
Length/grade/stars : 26m S posible 1 star
Climbers : Mandy Glanvill, Julie Carter, Anne Freund
Start location:
Ab down to base of Battery Rib, first arête to the rightPitch descriptions:
Well protected arête climb. Up the arête from base into scoop 3m, then on right side of arête up crack 5m, then as arête bluntend climb more easily up slab and groove to right fairly directly to finish as BatteryRrib.

Additional info:
Led from ground up placing trad gear

Submitted by : Andy Owen
Area : Lundy
Crag : Previously unclimbed buttress. Suggest name of Lady Denise’s Buttress
Date of ascent : 31/08/2011
Route name : Seal Erotica
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres HVS 5a
Climbers : James Nichols, Ian Timbrell
Start location:
Previously unclimbed buttress north of Black Bottom Buttress and above Threequarter Wall Buttress. The north face is situated above St James’s Stone and well seen in photo page 265 and also on centre fold of photo pages 266 and 267 of current (2008) guidebook. It is easily reached down a gentle grass slope from plateau level. The route is on the north face.Pitch descriptions:
Start from a large flat boulder at the left side of the crag. Gain the rightward slanting fist crack above and climb strenuously to underneath the roof on the left hand side. Gain horizontal breaks through the clean patch of rock to the top. Rope belay around summit crown.

Additional info:
Climbed onsight and ground up.

Submitted by : Andy Owen
Area : Lundy
Crag : Previously unclimbed buttress. Suggest name of Lady Denise’s Buttress
Date of ascent :
Route name : One Hundred and Ten Years
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c. 30 metres
Climbers : Andy Owen, Mick Cooke
Start location:
Approach as for Seal Erotica to North Face of crag. Start at a pile of boulders just left of the lowest point of the crag at the foot of the obvious right left rising ramp line.Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp all the way to the overhang, which is passed on the left, to the top Belay as for Seal Erotica.

Additional info:
Climbed onsight and in ungardened state. Repeated 31/08/2011 by James Nichols and Ian Timbrell. Grade confirmed

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Gannet front buttress
Date of ascent : 07/09/2011
Route name : Grumpy Old Gannets
Length/grade/stars : 85m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
start as for “Gannet Front”Pitch descriptions:
1) 15m 4c . climb diagonally left to a short groove which leads to a traverse line, go down and left to a cormorants toilet and cross this without breathing to a comfortable belay niche below and left.
2)32m 5a climb the left hand crack in the wall above and continue up the rib passing to the right of a black area of rock to a large terrace. Belay
3)15m walk left around the front of the buttress to a belay at the top of the terrace directly below an obvious layback crack above the right hand side of a black overhang.
4)25m 5b enter the layback crack from the right and continue up the short vegetated wall above to a large grassy ledge, the jam crack above provides an energetic finale.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Slipper Rock
Date of ascent : 09/09/2011
Route name : Puff the Magic Dragon
Length/grade/stars : 20m hs 4c 3 stars
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruth Everitt, Justin Ford
Start location:
“Slipper Rock” is the outcrop overlooking gannet rock bay from the south end, identifiable by a miraculous spectacular jutting prow that resembles a dragons head. Start at the rib at the base of the landward side of the buttress.Pitch descriptions:
1) 20m 4c up the rib to a flake crack. move left across the slab and make an exposed and commiting move left onto the very snout of the beast. Finish up the slabby crest to a perched block belay.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Tom Hatt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Leaning Buttress – Devils Limekiln Area
Date of ascent : 24/08/2012
Route name : Gardening the Muffin!
Length/grade/stars : 85m – HVS 4b
Climbers : Kyle Holman, Tom Hatt, Joe Fraser
Start location:
As for the ‘Devils Limekiln’ P36 2008 Lundy Guide The route starts on the South side of the ‘Leaning Buttress’ immediately to the left of the right-hand tunnel leading to ‘Muffin the Mule’. Accessible 2hrs before low tide.Pitch descriptions:
1. 15m Start Left of the tunnel, make a tricky move to start, then climb easily to belay on the left of the large ledge.
2. 25m (4b) Step left into the corner and make a rising traverse leftwards to a large jammed boulder at 30m above sea level.
3. 10m (4a) Ascend the loose gully to a nut belay on the col.
4. 35m (4b) From the col, traverse right for 5m, move up over poor quality rock, trending left and up into a scoop. Belay as far back as possible.

Additional info:
On-sight. The top pitch needs a bit of cleaning.

Submitted by : Tom Hatt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Kistvaen Buttress
Date of ascent : 18/08/2012
Route name : TT Traverse
Length/grade/stars : 45m (1 star)
Climbers : Tom Hatt, Tim Taylor
Start location:
Descend as for Kistvaen Buttress (2008 Lundy Guide) but trend rightwards, to sloping ledges 45m West of the ridge and 20m above sea level.Pitch descriptions:
From the right-hand end of the sloping ledges, step down and traverse right and make an airy series of moves over 3 stepped overhangs. Step down and continue on to the rising slab that leads to a large boulder at the top of ‘Clea’.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Tom Hatt << Comment
Area : Lundy
Crag : First Buttress North
Route name : Formula One
Comment:
Sometime in 2012 the top section of ‘Formula One’ (HVS 5a) has fallen off. We climbed it to the last overhang and inspected the top section which was loose with minimal protection. I would suggest that the grade is now E? something and would need some cleaning!
Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Trawlerman’s Buttress
Date of ascent : 05/09/2012
Route name : When the Boat Comes In
Length/grade/stars : 43m VS 5a 1star
Climbers : Graham and Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Start at a short smooth groove 5m left of Trawlin’ for Bouys and MeridianPitch descriptions:
1) 5a 18m Climb the short thin groove using any amenable molluscs to gain a short slab and corner above, traverse right just below the overhangs to belay in the niche of TFB.
2)4c 25m Traverse right along a horizontal crack beneath the overhangs to the centre of the hanging slab, go straight up this to a pull over the overhang at the very top of the crag.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Dave Linnett
Area : Lundy
Crag : Previously unclimbed slab, suggested name of “Partidge Slab”
Date of ascents : 17/09/2012Start location:
Partridge Slab is small and amenable with excellent golden rock and most of the routes are approximately 10 long. It is located halfway between the Conning Tower and Short Story Zawn and uses the same approach to Arch Zawn South with access possible for 3 hours either side of low tide. Descent is by abseil or a Moderate scramble!Date of ascent : 17/09/2012Route name : Cashback!
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres Diff
Climbers : Rob Horler; Dave Linnett
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the first leftward trending crack.Date of ascent : 17/09/2012

Route name : Eat My Face!
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres VD
Climbers : Dave Linnett; Rob Horler
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the second crack for 5 metres then step right into the next crack and follow to the top.

Date of ascent : 17/09/2012
Route name : Back Of The Net!
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres VD
Climbers :  Dave Linnett; Rob Horler
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the third, wider crack and pull over the bulge to the top.

Date of ascent : 17/09/2012
Route name : Knowing Me…
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres VD
Climbers :  Pete Shone; Louise Shon
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack in the centre of the slab.

Date of ascent : 17/09/2012
Route name : …Knowing You
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres VD
Climbers :  Pete Shone; Louise Shone
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall to the right of the flake.

Date of ascent : 17/09/2012
Route name : Aha!
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres VD *
Climbers : Dave Linnett; Rob Horler
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right to left rising crackline to the top. Nice!

Date of ascent : 17/09/2012
Route name : Jurassic Park!
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres Diff
Climbers : Louise Shone; Pete Shone
Pitch descriptions:
Start to the right of the left leaning chimney. Step across the gap and climb the fluted slab to the top.

All were climbed onsight!

Submitted by : Stevie Newman
Area : Lundy
Crag : Gannet’s Buttress
Date of ascent : 24/9/2012
Route name : Pilar: What a Nightmare
Length/grade/stars : 28m HVS 5a 1 star
Climbers : Stevie Newman , Pilar Martinez
Start location:
Approach as for routes on the mid height terrace and start 5m to the right of Granite GannetPitch descriptions:
1)18m 5a climb up 2m to the start of a rightward rising traverse follow this to the first thin crack, move up with difficulty, then step left and continue past an overhanging flakeprow step right and belay as for The Squirmer. 2)5m traverse to the right for 5m belay.
3)5m 4a climb cracks and bulges moving right to finish.

Additional info:
all on sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay Area
Date of ascent : 06/08/2013
Route name : Bridge of Sighs
Length/grade/stars : 35m HVS 5a 3
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Descend the flying buttress as for Archers Loaf. Belay at the top of the corner groove.Pitch descriptions:
1) 35m 5a Excellent sustained climbing on perfect rock rightwards across the centre of the arch ends at a short wall below the overhangs, move up and make exposed moves on projecting blocks and flakes over these to easier ground, continue across the lower angle slabs on the right to reach a block belay high on the spine of the arch.

Additional info:
Great climbing on perfect rock in a spectacular position. Well worth the stars. Climbed on sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay Area
Date of ascent : 07/08/2013
Route name : Teddy Bears Picnic
Length/grade/stars : 25m E1 5b (1)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Opposite the north side of the flying buttress are two diamond shaped pinnacles. Descend the crest of the flying buttress and abseil 20m down the north side to a small tidal bay. The route takes the front face of the right hand pinnacle. Descend by scrambling down the obvious brown basalt dyke that forms the seaward side of the pinnacle. Start at a groove by the mouth of a sea cave below the right hand side of the pinnacle.Pitch descriptions:
25m 5b Make a couple of moves up the groove to gain a thin crack in the steep right wall up this energetically to a slender hanging groove. Climb the wall above directly to the top.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay Area
Date of ascent : 07/08/2013
Route name : Chimps Tea Party
Length/grade/stars : 25 m E2 5b(1)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Approach as for Teddy Bears Picnic. The route takes the south face of the lefthand (seaward) pinnacle. Start on the boulders in the channel at the lowest point of the face which is split by three thin cracks. Descend by scrambling off the back of the pinnacle.Pitch descriptions:
25m 5b Step off the boulders onto the steep face and climb up between the centre and right hand cracks to sloping ledges, continue over these slightly rightwards to the summit.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay Area
Date of ascent : 07/08/2013
Route name : Tea at the Ritz
Length/grade/stars : 40m S 4b (1)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Approach as for Teddy Bears Picnic. Start at the foot of the slabs on the right of the sea cave.Pitch descriptions:
40m 4b Climb pleasantly up the centre of the slab passing through a slight bulge at 10m, continue up the centre of the slabs trending slightly left until encouraged to exit right by the boulder cornice above to a thread belay high on the crest of the flying buttress.

Additional info:
Some slight grittiness higher up which should improve with subsequent ascents does not detract from an otherwise very pleasant route. On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Dihedral Slabs (new buttress)
Date of ascent : 08/08/2013
Route name : Every Cloud
Length/grade/stars : 40m E1 5b *
Climbers : C Dale, J Martin, M Jones
Start location:
Locate a large pointed block 20m right “looking up” of the grassy rib running down the south side of Dihedral Zawn. A 50m ab leads to a large none tidal ledge.Pitch descriptions:
Start on the lefthand side of the ledges. Step down and traverse left to a ledge follow this to its end. Climb straight up to the second crack in the slab above. Climb this past an overlap to a second, traverse up and right to finish as for silver lining.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : dihedral slabs
Date of ascent : 06/ 08/2013
Route name : Silver lining
Length/grade/stars : 36m H V S 5a *
Climbers : C Dale, J Martin
Start location:
as for Every cloudPitch descriptions:
Step down and traverse left to the ledge, move to the middle of the ledge then climb straight up to the first proper crack in the slab above. climb this past an overlap to a step right to finish

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Dihedral Slabs
Date of ascent : 06/08/2013
Route name : Dihedral Slab
Length/grade/stars : 25m VD
Climbers : C Dale, J Martin
Start location:
Start on the lefthand side of the ledgesPitch descriptions:
Climb the smaler of the to grooves to a ledge. Climb the righthand side of the slab to a step right above an overlap to finish.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Dihedral Slabs
Date of ascent : 06/08/2013
Route name : Johny’s Makeshift Harnness
Length/grade/stars : 25m HS 4a
Climbers : J Martin, C Dale
Start location:
Start on the lefthand side of the ledgesPitch descriptions:
Climb the larger of the two grooves to a ledge. Climb the crest of the arête left of the grassy v groove all the way to the top.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Dihedral Slabs
Date of ascent : 06/08/2013
Route name : Mankini
Length/grade/stars : 25m HS 4b
Climbers : J Martin, C Dale
Start location:
Start on the lefthand side of the ledgesPitch descriptions:
Climb the lefthand side of the slab until in the bottom of the vegetated groove. Move right under the overhang to the lefthand side of a wall. Climb this to the top.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Dihdral slabs
Date of ascent : 06/08/2013
Route name : Wild Diamond
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 5a
Climbers : C Dale, J Martin
Start location:
Start in the centre of the slab.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the center of thr slab to the overhang. climb this on good holds to the middle of the upper wall then straight up to finish.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Dihedral Slabs
Date of ascent : 08/08/2013
Route name : Black Country
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 4c
Climbers : J Martin, C Dale
Start location:
Start on the righthand side of the slabPitch descriptions:
Climb the streaked slab to the hanging block on the right side of the overhang. Move right under the block and climb the crack on its right,untill it is possible to step left onto the slabby wall. Continue up into the groove moving left to finish up the rib.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : A J Martin
Area : Lundy
Crag : Les Aiguilles du Montagu
Date of ascent : 07/08/2013
Route name : Snap Crackle and Pop
Length/grade/stars : HS 4b
Climbers : C Dale, M Gutterridge, A Clarke
Start location:
Start at the righthand end on the east side of the seaward stackPitch descriptions:
Climb the obvious leftward rising ramp to the middle of the wall, ascend this to the slab. move left and follow the arête to the summit.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay area
Date of ascent : 02/09/2013
Route name : California Dreaming
Length/grade/stars : 47m E1 5a
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt, Justin Ford
Start location:
Cross the gap between “Teddy bears picnic and “Chimps tea party” and descend to the foot of a large slab. start in the centre of the slab directly below a prominent v groove that breach’s the half height overhang.Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to the overhang, gain the slab above via the v groove and continue up the centre of the slab to a thread belay.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Lee Harrison
Area : Lundy
Crag : Needle Rock
Date of ascent : 02/09/2013
Route name : Incognito
Length/grade/stars : 23m, VS, 5a, 2 stars
Climbers : Lee Harrison, Anna Kennedy
Start location:
Refer to the CC Lundy guide for approach and tidal information. There is a large isolated boulder on the cliffs above Needle Rock that we used for the approach (60m abseil). The route is located on the Western aspect of the rock.Pitch descriptions:
2 pitches.
Pitch 1: 5a, 15m. Climb the thin crack near the right-hand side of the West Face to directly join Integrity at 13 height. Climb the cracks of Integrity then move left to gain an obvious platform at 23 height.
Pitch 2: 4b, 8m. Climb the cracks above the platform through a small bulge to join the Northerly face. Spike on right. Climb the centre of the steep face on large holds but with no protection directly to the summit.

Additional info:
We accidentally climbed this route thinking we on the Devil’s Chimney. Only in retrospect did we realise that this was a new route. The route was onsighted. No fixed gear was used although a number 2 wire could not be removed from a small crack at 13 height and so was left in-situ. Existing abseil tat was used for the descent.

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay area
Date of ascent : 02/09/2013
Route name : A Little Light Refreshment
Length/grade/stars : 25m HVS 5a (1)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt, Justin Ford
Start location:
Start 6m left of “teddy bears picnic” below a short shallow groove.Pitch descriptions:
25m Tricky moves up the groove and wall above lead to a wide sloping ledge on the left of the buttress cross this and climb the crack on the left arete of the wall above.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Pilots Quay area
Date of ascent : 03/09/2013
Route name : Quay Guano
Length/grade/stars : 23m S 4b
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Justin Ford
Start location:
Start directly below the centre of the lower slab between Newquay and Quay West.Pitch descriptions:
23m Climb the short wall to the “toe” of the slab and continue directly up the centre of it to a belay on the steps.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Pilots Quay
Date of ascent : 03/09/2013
Route name : Smells Like Teen Spirit
Length/grade/stars : 23m E2 5b (1)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Justin Ford
Start location:
start as for NewquayPitch descriptions:
23m 5b Climb newquay to the overhangs. Step left and pull over onto the slab above continue thinly up the righthand side of the upper slab. trend right at the top to a belay on the steps

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay
Date of ascent : 05/09/2013
Route name : Hideous Kinky
Length/grade/stars : 26m Hvs 5a (2)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Start at the foot of the seaward groove on nice ledges just left of the groove of Archers of loaf. (Would recommend this as a start point for that route too as there are no ledges in that groove even at low tide and the down climbing of it would be far harder than anything on the route.)Pitch descriptions:
26m 5a Step right from the lowest ledge at low tide and enter the groove at the foot of the arch via a tricky move . Climb directly up the wall on delightful rock trending slightly right at the top to a spike belay on a sloping ledge.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Picnic Bay area
Date of ascent : 05/09/2013
Route name : Rive Gauche
Length/grade/stars : 30m E1 5b (1)
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
start below a damp dark ramp in the wall opposite ” river runs through it”Pitch descriptions:
30m 5b Climb the damp ramp to a drier and steeper wall in it difficult moves gain the sloping ledge above from here launch directly and excitingly up the overhanging wall via a series of slanting rails to a belay at the ab point

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : David Linnett
Area : Lundy
Crag : Partridge Slab
Date of ascent : 22/09/2013
Route name : Lynn’s Lament
Length/grade/stars : 10m Hard Severe 1
Climbers : FA D.Linnett, N.McEwan, B.Bagnall,
Pitch descriptions:
Start 2m right of “Knowing You” and climb the slab direct via narrow ledges to finish up the prominent crack.Additional info:
On sight
Submitted by : David Linnett
Area : Lundy
Crag : Partridge Slab
Date of ascent : 22/09/2013
Route name : Coogan’s Chimney
Length/grade/stars : 15m Diff 0
Climbers : FA B.Bagnall, D.Linnett, N.McEwan
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the obvious right to left chimney to the top.Additional info:
On sight
Submitted by : David Linnett
Area : Lundy
Crag : Partridge Slab
Date of ascent : 22/09/2013
Route name : Radio Norwich FM
Length/grade/stars : 12 m Sev 4a 1
Climbers : FA D.Linnett, N.McEwan, B.Bagnall
Pitch descriptions:
Start on the right hand side of the chimney and climb the obvious steep crack. Pull through the small overhang on lovely jugs to finish direct. Mmmm nice!Additional info:
On Sight
Submitted by : David Linnett
Area : Lundy
Crag : Partridge Slab
Date of ascent : 22/09/2013
Route name : Alpha Papa
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD 0
Climbers : FA N.McEwan, D.Linnett, B.Bagnall
Pitch descriptions:
Start at the far right hand end of the slab and climb the flutings to a ledge at 8m. 1m right of the small corner climb the face direct to finish.Additional info:
On Sight
Submitted by : Mick Cooke
Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff
Date of ascent : 18/08/14
Route name : You Said “Bulge”
Length/grade/stars : 20m V Diff
Climbers : Mick Cooke, Ian Timbrell
Start location:
Half way between ‘Where am I’ and ‘Aisla B’.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the obvious line in the middle of the slabby rib between ‘Where am I’ and ‘Aisla B’. When you reach the overhanging bulge near the top, step right under the bulge and finish up ‘Aisla B’.
Submitted by : Mick Cooke
Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff
Date of ascent : 18/08/14
Route name : Monday Afternoon
Length/grade/stars : 15m Severe
Climbers : Ian Timbrell, Mick Cooke
Start location:
The ramp of ‘Beach Barbie’
Pitch descriptions:
Follow the slabby ramp of ‘Beach Barbie’ to the ledge. Climb up and step right around the bulge and then climb up and left directly to the top.
Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Crag : Arch Zawn Poop Deck
Date of ascent : 15/09/14
Route name : Captain Pugwash
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS 5a
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Opposite the Conning tower is an area of steep walls and large platforms (the poop deck) directly opposite the excellent “Ultramarine” and above two shallow grooves is a prominent corner. Start at the foot of these in the bottom of the boulder channel.Pitch descriptions:
Climb easily up the grooves to arrive at a large platform below the left arête of the corner, delightful climbing up the arête leads to the top.
Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff
Date of ascent : 07/09/14
Route name : Piece of Cake
Length/grade/stars : 60m HS 4b *
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:Pitch descriptions:

Additional info:

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff
Date of ascent : 09/09/14
Route name : No Picnic
Length/grade/stars : 50m E1 5b **
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
As for “Piece of cake.
Pitch descriptions:

  1. 12m 4b as for “Piece of cake” to the foot of the shallow groove.step down and belay on the lowest ledge possible(anchors up high).
  2. 38m 5b Step down to an obvious line of footholds leading leftwards across the wall to arrive below a series of disjointed thin cracks, climb these trending leftwards to a slight bulge, over this and traverse left to the junction with the arch directly below a steep corner, up this and easy angled rock above to a belay on the crest of the arch.
Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff
Date of ascent : 11/09/14
Route name : Dances with Jellyfish
Length/grade/stars : 62m E1 5b *
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
As for “Piece of cake”.
Pitch descriptions:

  • 12m 4b As for “Piece of cake” to the shallow groove. Step down and belay on lowest ledge possible(anchors up high)
  • 50m 5b Climb down as far as possible and step right onto a rounded foot ledge at the the base of the slab, make tricky moves up and rightwards onto the slab, continue directly up the centre of the slab to easier climbing and a very low angle section that leads up to a groove with a prominent overhang. Climb to the overhang and exit left and immediately step back right onto the prow, up this to the belays.
Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff
Date of ascent : 11/09/14
Route name : Oddsock’s Groove
Length/grade/stars : 18m SS 4b
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Start just right of the upper section of “dances with jellyfish”.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the narrow groove just right of” Dances with jellyfish”.
Additional info:
Named in honour of the first visit to Lundy island by the internationally renowned adventuress “Miss oddsock”(google her).
Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Crag : `st James Stone
Date of ascent : 10/09/14
Route name : Stairway to Heaven
Length/grade/stars : 45m VS 4b 0r HVS 5a *
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt, Pete Jones
Start location:
Across the gap from “Some Crack” is an arete formed by the edge of the through slot. Abseil down the gritty corner right of the arete to good ledges (low tide).
Pitch descriptions:
45m 4b or 5a. Step left and climb the arête to a jutting prow, pass this on the left and step back right immediately to gain the continuation arête, follow this to the top.
Additional info:
Keeping both hands and feet on the arête all the way gives a slightly harder but more exciting excursion …hence the two grades.
Submitted by : Pete Johnson
Crag : Grand Falls Zawn
Date of ascent : 08/09/2015
Route name : The Road To Leningrad
Length/grade/stars : 84m E2 **
Climbers : Pete Johnson, Paul Drew
Start location:
Start as for The Road To Moscow alternative start.Pitch descriptions:

  1. 26m Pitch 1 of The Road To Moscow
  2. 23m Pitch 2 of The Road To Moscow
  3. 35m 5b Climb the superb, steep crack above the flake stance to an obvious break in the overhang (5m left of where The Road to Moscow breaches the overhang). Continue up the steep groove passing a flake/bollard until a committing move around the right arete can be made to finish up a steep, lichenous slab.

Additional info:
Low in the grade. The top pitch is well protected and on superb rock.

Submitted by : Jonathan Preston
Crag : Seal Slab area, Marisco Walls (page 292)
Date of ascent : 10/09/2015
Route name : Indecent Exposure
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS 4c *
Climbers : Jonathan Preston, Aqil Chaudhry
Start location:
Start as for ‘Marisco Striptease’Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove as for Marisco Striptease but instead of moving up to the overhang and climbing strenuously through it (hard for 5a?) traverse right across a slab to the arête. Step around this in an exposed postion (best savoured at high tide..), move up over a short bulge and climb cracks to the belay blocks of the abseil point.

Additional info:
Makes for an alternative (easier) finish to Marisco Striptease – avoiding the awkward overhang on that route.

Submitted by: Tony Stone
Crag: Torrey Canyon Cliff

Witness the Shitness

Date of ascent: 06/09/2016
Length/grade/stars: 40m E1 5a negative 3 stars
Climbers: Tony Stone, Max Sparber

Start location:

Probably the same place as Stingray (31/03/1967, 39m, E1 5a). This wall was revealed following the rockfall that removed most of Controlled Burning.

Pitch descriptions:

Takes the obvious – but unfortunately rather gravelly – finger and hand crack up the wall to a platform at its top. Exit leftward with care.

Additional info:

It *looks* like quite a good route. -3 stars was a bit of a joke, it’s a 0 star route which has a nice line but a fair bit of gravelly rock. It’s not particularly dangerous. The route is probably no worse a route than many whose first ascentionists would appear to wear rose tinted spectacles or, perhaps, simply they have no idea about what a good route is. It’s just I like my rock solid. If I were writing the next guidebook I would just suggest that “some routes have been climbed but the rock is very poor” around the Controlled Burning area. Incidentally, what was Controlled Burning could potentially clean up to give a decent E6/7 but it’d need a good clean/trundle.

Seal Slab Area > Short Story Zawn

Route Comment: Moonfleet

01-Jan-1970,
Just (!) noticed that in the current guide, (and probably the ones before), that I’m ‘Thomas’ instead of Thompson in the Chronology section, (page 405). Otherwise the description of the first ascent is accurate.

Seal Slab Area > Seal Slab

Wandering Walrus

65m S ☆
09-Aug-2018, C. Evans, E. Evans, M. Cooke
Start at the base of Seal Slab (VD) and take a rising left transerve towards the clean face of Walrus (S) until beneath a series of vertical overlapping large flakes. Continue vertically up to the top of the flakes (belay). Continue up and left and then take the line between Walrus and Seal Slab to the top.

Torrey Canyon Bay > Torrey Canyon Cliff

Meniscus Tear

45m S
03-Sep-2018, Jason Porter
Torrey canyon cliff.rehabilitation slab. Start on boulder on far left of the slab just to the right of a black crack,move up on good hold then step right into middle of slab carry on up wall on to meet a right slanting crack follow this until abseil point reached.

Arch Zawn Area > Arch Zawn > Headline Promontory

Route Comment: Bulletin & possibly Headline

01-Jan-1970, Simon Chandler
A large chunk of rock has fallen off Bulletin so there’s now no shallow groove leading up to the overhangs. There now just a flat wall – still a bit crumbly – with less protection opportunity. Definitely now harder. I backed off.

The Devil’s Slide Area > St James’s Stone

Route Comment: Kathleen Turner

01-Jan-1970, Simon Chandler
The route description is currently confusing because it refers to an undercut slab and overlap that you can only see once you’re half way up! From sea level you start on a wave washed slab.

The Devil’s Limekiln Area > Hidden Zawn > The East Wall

The Three Wise Slabs

30m VD
30-Aug-2018, Steve Wilson, John Brayshaw
Start at the eastern tip of the Zawn beneath the prominent undercut groove of Crossbill. Make an awkward step up onto the slabby, right trending ramp, as for German Bight Size, but where this route veers left, keep trending right up the ramp, over two small steps to a belay at the top of the buttress.

Squires View Zawn

Route Comment: Zed

01-Jan-1970,
Comment by Martin Hore

This is good – best route I’ve climbed at plateau level on Lundy. We started up the arête (possibly as taken by “XY” – see 2018 supplement) but then continued as per the description for Zed. It’s a logical line following the unusual (possibly) quartz extrusions which weave about the buttress. The line is very clearly seen from near the top of the Devil’s Slide. Worth a proper entry in the next guide. I’d give it VS 4c, One star.

Arch Zawn Area > Arch Zawn > Headline Promontory

Route Comment: Bulletin

01-Jan-1970,
Comment by Martin Hore

30 Aug 18. A big section of Bulletin appears to have fallen down. There’s not a lot of scarring, and no debris below, but obvious major differences from the photos in the current CC guide. Faced with unstable rock and no protection Simon Chandler (leading) backed off wisely. Pity as it was a great route.

Needle Rock Area

Rib Tickler Variation

30m S
15-Aug-2019, Mick Cooke and Dani King
Start 6 metres right of Punchbowl Arête at a leftward rising flake line. Climb the flake line for 10 metres until it joins the large ledge of Punchbowl Arete. Continue up Punchbowl Arête to the top. This is a quick and easy way up the Punchbowl Cliffs if you’ve been climbing Needle Rock and the tide’s coming in!

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

Squabbling Fulmars

17m D
02-Sep-2019, J. Brayshaw, S. Emptage
Starts from the right-hand side of the large block situated to the right of the sea channel at the base of the slab. Follow the left trending crack that eventually joins the upper section of the route, Hidden Slab, and exit at the small v-notch to good block belays.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

The Shivering Limpet

22m D ☆
02-Sep-2019, S. Emptage, J. Brayshaw
Climb the slab immediately right of the rectangular “cut-out” to join a slightly right trending crack that finishes at the small v-notch of the route, Hidden Slab. Delightful climbing on perfect rock.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

Seal Surfer

18m D 4a
01-Sep-2019, J. Brayshaw, S. Emptage
Climb to and through the triangular rock scar at 2m (hard but easily avoidable on the left) at the left-hand end of the rectangular “cut-out”, then follow the slightly rightward trending crack to the top of the slab.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

Galloping Grey Seals

17m D
01-Sep-2019, J. Brayshaw, S. Emptage
Starting at the left-hand end of the sea channel, climb the slab just to the right of its left edge.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

Remembering Wardy

23m S 4b
10-Sep-2020, J. Brayshaw, K. Brigden, S. Emptage
Start below the right-hand end of the rectangular “cut-out”. Pull through the steepening without recourse to holds in “The Shivering Limpet”, then follow the crack to a thin horizontal break. Step right and move up to a small ledge, then continue directly up the slab without recourse to the cracks on either side. Upon reaching the next break, continue to the top via the crack to the right of a well-defined edge. An eliminate route but offering good, contrasting climbing.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

Seals’ Hideaway

27m D
26-Sep-2021, J. Brayshaw, P. Mercer
Start as for The Difficult Pensioner at the right-hand end of the raised platform. Traverse rightwards for 9m before heading slightly left and up to some small projecting blocks. Head directly up to belays on the ridge.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

The Only Hard V Diff on Lundy

20m HVD
26-Sep-2021, S. Emptage, E. Berry
Climb the slab between the cracks of Hidden Slab and Squabbling Fulmars to a small overlap. Step right beyond the crack of Squabbling Fulmars to a gently rising diagonal seam. Follow this to a further crack which is climbed to the top.

Heron Zawn Area > Hidden Slab

The Difficult Pensioner

24m D
26-Sep-2021, J. Brayshaw, P. Mercer
Start at the right-hand end of the raised platform, 1m right of Squabbling Fulmars. Climb direct to a right trending crack and follow this to its end, where flutings lead easily to the top.

Beaufort Buttress Area > Picnic Bay Cliff

Route Comment: Where am I? and other discrepancies

While at Picnic Bay we noticed a few apparent discrepancies in the 2008 guide: For someone unfamiliar with the island the Pyramid does not look very significant when viewed from above and we took a little while to identify it. Once down, We found it easier to scramble down to the left (south) of the Pyramid than over the slightly loose and dirty slab to the right. I struggled to identify the “good flake belays” to abseil from. Perhaps this is a matter of interpretation, but what I had expected from the description did not match what I found, although I found a good block backed up with nuts in cracks. This mattered only in that it did cause us to wonder for a while whether we were in the right place. ‘Where am I?’: the text describes this as stepping right to finish up a short groove, however the picture (p196) shows it going left. Left seems the more obvious line and is appropriate to the grade. A friend who tried going right found it harder. The 2018 supplement includes ‘You Said Bulge’ which has an almost identical description to ‘Where am I?’. Is this a separate route, or just a variation finish? Either way, it could do with a clearer description. The text has the groove just left of ‘Where am I?’ as ‘Louis’ with ‘Bryony’ to the left of that, whereas the picture shows them reversed, with ‘Louis’ on the left. As a general comment, whilst it is very useful to have OS grid references for the crags, it might also be useful to have them for the points at which to leave the path. I have twice gone down the wrong grassy gully looking for Seal Slab. I obtained my copy of the guidebook from the BMC but it did not include the pull-out Harveys map, which I did not realise until I arrived on Lundy and saw my friends’ copies. Where can I obtain the map insert?