Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.
Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
| Submitted by : Kyle Rance Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Ban-y-Gor, The Mushroom Walls Date of ascent : 19/02/12 Route name : ‘Llow the Shrooms Length/grade/stars : 11m, E1, Climbers : Kyle Rance, Ollie Hoffman Start location: Blocks in-between ‘mushroom boys’ and ‘fly agaric’Pitch descriptions: one 11m pitch. Climb the blocks in-between ‘mycology’ and ‘fly agaric’ up to the overhang. Take the overhang direct (5b) via some interesting moves and climb the arete to the top with a nice run out. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Ian Atkins << correction Area : Lower Wye Valley. Crag : Shorn Cliff, Tiger Bay. Date of ascent : 15/09/2009 << Route name : Dazed and Contused << Length/grade/stars : 15 metres, Hard Severe Climbers : Ian Atkins (leader), Paul Greenhow (second) Start location: Scramble rightwards 5 metres from “Cry Wolf” to below a crack and groove.Pitch descriptions: 15 metres. 4B. Climb directly to the ledge, and continue up the crack and then groove until below the capping earth cornice. Avoid this like the plague by arborially gaining the left arete, and hence the top of the clif. Belay as for Cry Wolf. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wintours Leap – Terrys Wall Date of ascent : Route name : Not Another Terry Length/grade/stars : HS 4b Climbers : Pitch descriptions: Repeated For those of us who are aboreally challenged probably climbed before in mistake for Terry’s wall Left-Hand (which starts behind a sapling further left). This is the line I think I soloed in April 1979. |
| Submitted by : Robert Kingston << Comment & New routes Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Shorn Cliff Route name : All or Nothing, Pooh Sticks – direct, one other Comment: Hi, I was flicking through the 2012 supplement and noticed a ‘new’ route between No Musketeers and One for All – climbed in 2006, can’t remember name of the climb or the climbers (C.Heard?). This is probably the same route as All or Nothing, climbed in 2000. All or Nothing 70ft E1 5b An eliminate between No Musketeers and One for All, but with good climbing. Start 10ft left of OfA, and climb the wall directly to a ledge at 30ft. Now direct to join NM where it traverses R. Finish direct. FA Robert Kingston, Bryan Stadden 27th June 2000 On the same day Pooh Sticks – Direct E2 5c A slight but hard variation. Follow PS to the ledge at 20ft. Instead of moving R and up a groove, follow the wall just to the left of the groove, reaching better holds by a small tree. Climb the LHS of the wall above to belay as for The Bone. FA R.Kingston, B.Stadden 27th June 2012 Also around that time I climbed a bold route between Spanish Inquisition and Treason. Go up to a concretion and then to a ledge on the left at 20ft. Then direct, trending left to finish. Probably E12. All details were at the time provided to Dave Viggars at the CC. I’m not sure what happened to the descriptions, but I’m described the routes from my original notes. |
| Submitted by : Alex T Harper Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Ban-y-gor Nelson Mandela Buttress Date of ascent : 21/09/2012 Route name : Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections Length/grade/stars : 60ft F7C Climbers : Alex T Harper Start location: Start as of Nelson MandelaPitch descriptions: 60ft F7C This climb is a very good link up which starts at Nelson Mandel. Then cross East of Sweden. To that finish up Blabba Mouth. Which lets you take on the cruxs of each route one after the other. Would not put link up on here usually but this is a good one. So start up Nelson Mandela and climb the low half to the break (cliping 3 bolts). Make a move up to the big shared hold of East of Sweden. Then begin the tricky move up the steep shallow groove to good holds just above the bolt (so just clip 1 bolt on East of Sweden). Now step right to gain a big spike side pull on Blabba Mouth. Now continue up Blabba Mouth to the lower off pass so perplexing move on small sloping edges.Additional info: Clip first 3 on Nelson. Clip one on East of Sweden then use bolts on Blabba Mouth to lower off it not to hard to work out. I hope. |
| Submitted by : Chris Heard Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry – Lower Lift Date of ascent : 07/12/2012 Route name : Fraxinus Excelsior Length/grade/stars : 7m (6b+) 2 bolts Climbers : Jason Jones, Chris Heard Start location: The Lowest Lift – This is a small compact buttress of sound rock below ‘Sweet F.A.’ on the Lower Lift. The buttress can be located by facing ‘Sweet F.A.’ and turning 180°. Walk to the cliff edge past a Buddleia bush and the routes are below you. The buttress can be approached directly from the road or by abseil from the Buddleia. A rock platform has been excavated and provides a comfortable take off point for both routes. There are no lower off bolts because the routes are relatively short and it is assumed most climbers would wish to return to the Lower Lift having completed the climbs.Pitch descriptions: Follow the well defined arête with some urgency near the top.Additional info: Neither route required cleaning and the style of ascent was red point. The arête is probably worth one star as a good route for the crag. |
| Submitted by : Chris Heard Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry – Lower Lift Date of ascent : 07/12/2012 Route name : Eeyore’s Place Length/grade/stars : 7m (5+) 2 bolts Climbers : Chris Heard, Jason Jones Start location: The wall to the right of the arête shares the same first bolt, but starts one metre to the right of the arête.Pitch descriptions: Climb directly past the second bolt to an interesting mantelshelf finish. |
| Submitted by : Jason Jones Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry, lowest tier Date of ascent : 29/04/2013 Route name : Performance Review Length/grade/stars : 10m, F6b+ or 6c?, 1 star Climbers : Jason Jones Start location: Approach from the road or abseil from bushes behind Sweet FA. Start to the right of the cleaned platform of Fraxinus Excelsior , directly under some obvious finger pockets at three meters ht.Pitch descriptions: Climbed solo, essentially a highball boulder problem with the difficulties low down. The grade assumes you don’t step on the wobbly pedestal behind you or pull on the hazel stumps on the ledge. (I’ll probably move them if I can bothered) Make hard moves straight up to the finger pockets using some holds on the right and get established on the ledge. possible hex or friend placement Then pick your favourite line to the top. The steeper bit of rock to the right is he nicer line, but if you’re unroped at this point the easiest line is much appreciated.Additional info: Solo |
| Submitted by : Henry Watson Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Daydream Wall (wall under Nightmare) Date of ascent : 10/11/2013 Route name : Daydream Length/grade/stars : 0 Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Henry Watson Start location: 4 metres left of cluster of three saplings, below Sunny Wall terrace, off the approach path from Woodcroft to Go and Fly Walls. Under the start of A Nightmare of Brown Sugar.Pitch descriptions: HVS 4c, 10m + A Nightmare of Brown Sugar Climb in between two loose-looking blocks to a clean ledge. Climb past thin cracks to a better crack, step right and climb to the blocky roof to Sunny Wall ledge. Possible belay on Sunny Wall (use runner on Nightmare cable). Then continue up A Nightmare of Brown Sugar.Additional info: Brief inspection on abseil, then flashed. Climbed as alternative start to Nightmare of Brown Sugar. Belay at top. |
| Submitted by : Henry Watson Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wintour’s Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall Date of ascent : 01/12/2013 Route name : C.W.A. for the Mitchell Brothers Length/grade/stars : 28 metres, E3 5b Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Mike Mitchell Start location: Start one metre left of ‘Delicious’, to the right of the tree.Pitch descriptions: 1 pitch. Climb the easy but very loose groove and mantle on to the rubble ledge. Carefully climb the shattered pillar (small gear) to a good hold in the cleaned recess under the roof (2 pegs). Blind moves lead to flat holds. Move left to a borehole (gear), then move up and right. Hand traverse left for two metres, then pull up (peg). Pull to the right, then go up a small groove to finish with great care up a slabby pillar. Lower abseil off 2 trees on a ledge under the top.Additional info: 3 pegs. Climbed clean after abseil inspection and cleaning. |
| Submitted by : Paul Southgate Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Sunny Wall, Woodcroft Quarry, Wintours Leap. Date of ascent : 26/12/2013 Route name : Lady Tata and the Camels Balls Length/grade/stars : 28 metres, E2 5b Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Paul Southgate. Start location: Approach as for Nightmare of Brown Sugar.Pitch descriptions: Start to the right of nightmare, 4 meters to the left of the small tree at the cleaned ledges. Climb the ledges then step right under the obvious cleaned groove. Enter the groove, small wires. Climb the groove past 2 pegs, crux, then step right on cleaned jugs. Climb the cracked pillar and wall above until able to reach right and clip the top peg on C.W.A for the Mitchell Brothers. Continue up the steep wall until under a sapling, then move carefully left onto slabby, vegatated rock. Follow this easily but carefully to the lower off abseil ledge of C.W.A, a couple of metres below the top.Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil, pegs were placed on abseil. Then top roped once. Then lead climbed with all wires and cams placed on the lead. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau. Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall. Date of ascent : 11/01/14. Route name : Crowbar Yoga Length/grade/stars : 35 metres, E3 5b, 1star. Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Parslow, John Presley. Start location: Approach as for Delicious.Pitch descriptions: 35 metres, E3 5b. Start 3 metres right of the start of Delicious, behind the sawed down stump of a small tree, at a black rib. Climb the rib and the thin crack above to good holds and then move up and right onto the ledge. Now traverse right until a couple of metres right of the 2 bolt belay of Delicious, above a small tree and under the black overhang. Climb the wall above with nice moves until under the black overhang, peg. Cross the overhang on its right hand side then follow the easy groove above to ledges. There is an in situ crowbar on the left (spike runner, possible abseil which renders the route E2 5b).There is also a dirty break, and a good thin crack to the right. Above there is a steep wall under a bush. Climb the wall past a couple of jugs, then make tricky moves up and right to small positive holds on a bulge. Now reach right round the arête, then up to juggy rock and a small sapling. Now step right past the sapling and mantle carefully onto a ledge. Move carefully up and left onto the large pillar ( big spike runner or big wires). Finally rock over onto the earthy platform above and finish at a abseil station on small trees, on a ledge a few metres below the top. Abseil back to the right end of the broad starting platform ( tricky ) or straight down to the bottom of the quarry ( 60 metre ropes required ). I reported this route on 020114 with John Prestley, but today ( 110114 ) I climbed it with the new start, I didn’t clip any of the bolts on Delicious and climbed the remaining 12 metres above the crowbar ledge as described to make the pitch E3. Its also worth mentioning that the small trees on the broad starting platform were sawed down and carried away by a grumpy sport climber today, thus making anchors for belays a bit harder but not impossible. Any other submissions I have made mentioning these small trees on the starting platform, please change to stumps.Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil, then lead climbed with all gear being placed on the lead apart from the peg and crowbar which are in-situ. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau. Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall. Date of ascent : 08/02/2014. Route name : Crowbar Cowboy Length/grade/stars : 15 Metres, E2 5b. Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Parslow. Start location: Approach as for Sill Nice and Still Sleazy.Pitch descriptions: 15 metres, E2 5b. Start about 10 metres to the left of Still Nice and Still Sleazy at the obvious red groove. Climb the groove for a couple of metres to a break on the right. Make an awkward move to stand in the break and gain a peg which is best tied off. Now gain a small positive hold and move right onto the wall, you can now clip a peg on the route to the right (Super Tone). Follow positive holds up and mantle with care onto cleaned ledges. Follow the easy ledges gear on the right and out left) until directly below a small tree. Climb to the tree, and the ledge above. Now either step left to the first double bolt belay of Delicious, or extend the pitch into Crowbar Yoga (60 metre ropes required).Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed. All gear was placed on the lead apart from the peg. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau. Area : Lower Wye Valley Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall. Date of ascent : 08/02/2014. Route name : Super Tone Length/grade/stars : 16 metres, E2 5b, 1 star. Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Parslow. Start location: Approach as for Still Nice and Still Sleazy.Pitch descriptions: 16 metres, E2 5b. Start to the right of Crowbar Cowboy under the attractive, solid wall. Taking care with the first bit, climb to the little roof formed by the base of the wall ( dirty break for gear). Climb up and left over the little roof (peg on left shared with Crowbar Cowboy), now move back right across the wall on small positive holds to a second peg. Now move up right to a large flat hold under a roof, with a third peg in a thin break on the left. (It is possible to hand traverse this break to join Crowbar Cowboy if you want). Reach up and right over the roof and haul over onto cleaned ledges. Climb right easily past a the foot of a flake crack, then rock onto a large rib. Now move up to the tree belay of Hard Sleaze. Abseil off.Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed. All gear was placed on the lead apart from the 3 pegs. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall Date of ascent : 19/02/2014 Route name : Mark Blanchett’s Slab Length/grade/stars : 42 metres E3 5c no stars Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Mike Goldthorp Start location: Approach as for A Nightmare of Brown Sugar.Pitch descriptions: Climb Lady Tata and the Camels Balls past the second peg, continue up and locate another peg on the left. Now traverse left on cleaned ledges until you reach a grassy mound and another peg. Climb carefully left around the grassy mound which gives access to the hanging black slab. Climb up the centre of the slab to a peg, then mantle with care onto the top left hand corner of it. Move left and clip the thread on the lip of The Devil’s Trousers. Now continue traversing left under the roof past the lower peg, to the peg on the lip of A Nightmare of Brown Sugar. Finish as for A Nightmare of Brown Sugar. Take a hanging belay. Named in memory of Mark Blanchett for whom there is a memorial on top of Fly Wall, overlooking Sunny Wall.Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil, then lead climbed with all gear being placed on the lead apart from the pegs. |
| Submitted by : Mike Goldthorp Crag : Wintours Leap/ Woodcroft Quarry/ Sunny Wall. Date of ascent : 19/02/14 Route name : Nightmare of Brown Trousers Length/grade/stars : 36 metres, E5 6a Climbers : Mike Goldthorp, Gavin Cytlau Start location: Start as for Nightmare of Brown SugarPitch descriptions: A tidy eliminate pitch. Start as for Nightmare of Brown Sugar until at the end of the cable, then move up right and go directly over the friable brown bulge on mostly large but slightly suspect holds with slightly dubious protection. Continue up crystal covered rock as for The Devils Trousers, past the peg to the thread on the lip. Gear can also be arranged on the left. From a big sidepull, go direct through the roof to crimps above the white patch, and pull over to a big left-hand undercut with difficulty. Continue up to the main break, then step right to a big undercut, and then blast up the headwall via small side-pulls between A Nightmare of Brown Sugar and The Devils Trousers, until a tough final move gains the lower off of A Nightmare of Brown Sugar.Additional info: Route was inspected, then lead climbed with all gear being placed on the lead. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall Date of ascent : 21/02/2014 Route name : Hannah Madden’s Rainbow. Length/grade/stars : 16 metres E2 5c 1 star. Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Paul Southgate. Start location: Approach as for Still Nice and Still Sleazy.Pitch descriptions: Start approximately 5 metres to the left of Still Nice and Still Sleazy under a corner and the right hand arete of the attractive wall ( Super Tone ). Scramble up until a line of holds on the left, on the arete are reached. Use them to reach left around the arete and strenuously clip the peg, crux, ( this is the second peg on Super Tone ) then return to the starting line of holds and a rest. Now using a small hold up right rock up onto the arete. Balance and slap up it until you reach the large flat hold under the roof as for Super Tone then clip its third and final peg. Finish over the funky roof as for Super Tone. Abseil or lower off from the tree belay on Hard Sleaze.Additional info: Route was cleaned on and inspected on abseil, then lead climbed with all gear being placed on the lead apart from the pegs. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall Date of ascent : 08/03/2014 Route name : Elementary Dear Watson Length/grade/stars : E1 5a / 21 metres Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Henry Watson Start location: Approach as for Still Nice and Still Sleazy.Pitch descriptions: Start at the rib a couple of metres to the left of Still Nice and Still Sleazy. From a razor sharp crystal pocket climb up slightly right at first to a big jug on the lip of the small roof. Move up over the roof on nice rock past a peg to a second peg. At the second peg lean left for a big jug, then traverse left for about 5 metres onto the big ledge above Super Tone until you reach it’s good crack. Now finish as for Super Tone.Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the pegs. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall. Date of ascent : 12/04/2014 Route name : Yo Gav, its going to need a traverse… Length/grade/stars : 57 metres/ E3 5c Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward Start location: Approach as for Still Nice and Still Sleazy. Woodcroft Quarry.Pitch descriptions: 1. 24 metres. Climb Elementary Dear Watson until you reach the good crack above the roof on Super Tone. Step left to the good crack on Crowbar Cowboy, climb this past the tree and continue up Crowbar Yoga. Take a belay on the in situ crowbar. 2. 16 metres. Hand traverse left into Delicious clipping the bolt you encounter. Step down to clip another bolt then move left to the 2 pegs on C.W.A for the Mitchell brothets. Climb up this to the borehole then move left into the easy groove on Lady Tata and the Camels balls. Climb this to its final peg shared with C.W.A and clip this to protect second. Now reverse and resume the traverse left into Mark Blanchetts Slab. Take a belay on the grassy mound under the slab using the peg next to it and the peg on the slab itself. 3. 17 metres. Climb the final good roof of Nightmare of Brown Sugar as for Mark Blanchetts Slab.Additional info: Route was lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the pegs. |
| Submitted by : Jason Jones Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry Date of ascent : 12.04.14 Route name : Ace of Shovels Length/grade/stars : 14m, F4+, one star Climbers : Jason Jones Start location: Starts on the roadside tier at a corner behind some trees about 30m left of the two bolt arête of Fraxinus Excelsior. The route finishes up the nice slabby arête at the extreme left of the middle tier. Good Belay off a small tree.Pitch descriptions: Climb up the centre of the clean wall (possible small nut runner) on small positive holds onto the ledge then continue straight up the blunt arête.Additional info: Climbed solo although there is possible gear in the lower half. I had in mind an easy bolt route which would be a popular addition to the crag. Howerever it makes a very enjoyable and worthwhile solo, so I would like to know what people think. |
| Submitted by : Jason Jones Crag : Wyncliff Quarry Date of ascent : April 2014 Route name : Red Ken Length/grade/stars : 15m 6b one star Climbers : Jason Jones, Chris Heard Start location: Upper Tier – 30m to the left of the top of the path is a solid buttress of clean rock that has some how been overlooked all these years. Red Ken takes the left side and Boris the right.Pitch descriptions: Start directly under the bulging wall below the bolt on the left side of the arête. Take a straight line to the top ledge. Reach right to the lower off of Boris. Three bolts. The crux is getting on to the ledge at the first bolt with a similar hard sequence passing the top bolt to the final ledge.Additional info: The first bolt has been extended with a Maillon, because I placed the bolt too close to the ledge for the quick draw to hang correctly. |
| Submitted by : Jason Jones Crag : Wyncliff Quarry Date of ascent : 28/07/14 Route name : Boris Length/grade/stars : 15m 6b Climbers : Jason Jones Start location: Upper Tier – 30m to the left of the top of the path is a solid buttress of clean rock that has some how been overlooked all these years. Red Ken takes the left side and Boris the right.Pitch descriptions: The route takes the right hand side of the arête on rock that’s better than it looks, although still a bit crumbly in places. The grade assumes you follow the line of the arête, as it is possible to keep to the right and bridge the wall behind at an easier, but less satisfactory grade. 3 Bolts and lower off. |
 Whatever the Weatherley Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Mr Blissful went to Bristol Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Little White Lie Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Loan Star Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap. The South Bay Date of ascent : 05/10/2014 Route name : Leprechaun in the Hood Length/grade/stars : 28m XS 4c Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward< Start location: Start at the two bolt a abseil station at the foot of Meningectomy.Pitch descriptions: Traverse left behind the tree and continue left on awful dirty rock to a good crack. Carry on left and make nasty moves into the cave. Bridge up the cave with some gear then swim out of its top on more dirty horrible rock. Continue up the gulley to a peg at its top. Move right past two tree stumps to the two bolt abseil station at the foot of Vicious. This route is best avoided.Additional info: Route was cleaned on abseil, there used to be an eco system of brambles and ivy in the gulley. Route was lead climbed all gear was placed on the lead apart from the peg. (Its a shame there was nothing better here but removing the vegetation allowed Loan Star to be climbed). |
 Sigh anara! Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Chiquitito Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Breaking Bad Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Mike Hope Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry Date of ascent : 16/12/14 Route name : Three Amigos Length/grade/stars : 12m 6b+ Climbers : Mike Hope, Chris Brockbank, Peter Williams Start location: Approach the upper lift via the path. Turn left and within 15metres the route can be seen adjacent to the ivy clad wall.Pitch descriptions: Another short and entertaining pitch. Start in the centre of the cleaned wall via a vague crack line and small overhang at mid height. Avoid the large crack on the left and loose rock on the right. 3 bolts to the lower off. |
| Submitted by : Graham ‘Sven’ Hassall Crag : Leeping Stocks Date of ascent : 21/12/14 Route name : Dad’s Route Length/grade/stars : 7m HVS 5a Climbers : Andy Stewart, Graham ‘Sven’ Hassall Start location: On the Dark Mavis wall there is an obvious line between Incubation and Dark Mavis, below the obvious large tree.Pitch descriptions: The most obvious line on the wall, climb straight up to the tree on laybacks and pockets. A preplaced lower-off is highly recommended. |
 Rear Admiral Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Mike Hope Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry Date of ascent : 11/01/15 Route name : Apostrophe S Length/grade/stars : 13m 6b+ Climbers : Mike Hope, Chris Brockbank, Peter Williams, Moby O’Connor Start location: An interesting route with some good moves. The route is located on the upper lift between the technical wall of ‘Sometimes I think I’ll kill you’ and the adjacent yellow wall of ‘Tight Man’s Tips. Between these 2 walls there is nose of rock at 8 feet with a wall above.Pitch descriptions: Start immediately below the nose. Use small but good holds to get established on the nose (bolt). Further interesting moves in the centre of the wall follow to the overlap (2 bolts) before reaching the abseil station. |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Celestial Walls Date of ascent : 01/02/2015 Route name : Upgrade Length/grade/stars : 15m VS 4c 1 star Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Henry Watson Start location: Start to the right of The Peg Recycling Centre.Pitch descriptions: Climb ledges right then back left to a peg. Make surprisingly difficult crux moves straight past the peg and into the blocky groove. Follow this until at a flake crack under the roof. Nice layback moves lead around to the right and a tree lower off a little higher. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Celestial Walls Date of ascent : 01/02/2015 Route name : Giro Bandit Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS 5a Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Henry Watson Start location: To the right of Upgrade is a steep green wall with a large cave down to the right.Pitch descriptions: Climb off the little mound rightwards to a big jug pocket. Pull up onto the dusty ledges and traverse right to the arête. Move up onto the next cleaned ledge and walk left until under the wall sporting a peg. Boldly climb to the peg then make difficult moves up left for a blind crack. Move left to a tree then left again to the tree lower off on Upgrade. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Celestial Walls Date of ascent : 01/02/2015 Route name : Nic Mullin Likes Putty Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS 5a Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Henry Watson Start location: To the right of Giro Bandit is a large cave. To the right of this is a steep cracked wall.Pitch descriptions: Access the steep wall via dusty ledges. Climb the flake cracks taking care with some of the rock to a ledge. Make a tough reach to stand on this ledge and get a peg. Make another tough move for a rest and another peg. Now bridge left over the cave arch and climb over ledges to the higher groove/shallow cave. A tree lower off awaits a little higher to the right. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Mike Hope Crag : Wyndcliff Quarry Date of ascent : 05/03/15 Route name : Hong Kong Garden – rebolted Length/grade/stars : 18m E4 6b recommend a star Climbers : Mike Hope, Chris Brockbank, Peter Williams Start location: Start at the foot of the small Arête, then use the original descriptionPitch descriptions: As original description. Additional info: |
 Ground Hog Day Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 The Man from Uncle Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Ferris Bueller’s Dave Off Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Dog Dave Afternoon Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Squarepusher Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
 Tallulah Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Adam Haward Crag : Woodcroft Quarry, Basement Lift Date of ascent : 07/04/15 Route name : My Friend Goo Length/grade/stars : 16m HVS 4c Climbers : Adam Haward, Gavin Cytlau Start location: Start between ‘Squarepusher’ and ‘Dog Dave Afternoon’ beneath a leftward stepped groove system immediately right of the hanging cable.Pitch descriptions: Climb the shallow groove to a small overlap at 5m and exit left past a questionable peg onto the slab, taking care with a large rattling hold. Continue up to the central groove (Two stacked blocks on the left are probably best avoided) and climb this boldly to a small ledge on it’s right at aprox. 10m. Exit left onto a sloping ledge and continue up the deep groove to tree and scrap metal belays. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Jason Jones Crag : Woodcroft Quarry, Basement lift Date of ascent : 21/04/15 Route name : See It, Sort It! Length/grade/stars : 12m 6b Climbers : Jason Jones, Chris Heard Start location: Apologies for the wordy description, but there are no routes in the guide book to base it on. It is situated about halfway along the west facing terrace, just before the heavily cleaned area containing some of the routes described by Gavin Cytlau. About 5m right of the last orange tat and peg route, the first of three bolt routes starting below a vertical bore hole.Pitch descriptions: Climb straight up to the left of the bolts gaining the shallow scoop with difficulty, hard for the short! Continue to the lower off of the adjacent route. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry Date of ascent : 25/04/15 Route name : Tea Leaf Length/grade/stars : 10m E1 4c Climbers : Gavin Cytlau Start location: Start near the middle of the short wall opposite Still Nice and Still Sleazy.Pitch descriptions: Climb the wall steeply to move left onto a cleaned ledge. Now climb the wall above with the thin crack in it to a tiny tree. Use the crack out right to make an escape out of the top groove. Finishes on the platform where Delicious etc start. Additional info: |
 Road to Tata Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Sunny Wall Date of ascent : 23/05/15 Route name : Older Not Wiser Length/grade/stars : 29m E2 5b Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward Start location: Start as for Road to Tata.Pitch descriptions: Climb Road to Tata to its first peg on the grassy ledge but then go straight up past a thin crack to another peg. Go up and right over the overhang and join up with Mark Blanchett’s Slab. Finish up this or go right and finish up Lady Tata. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : >Gavin Cytlau Crag : Wintours Leap, The South Bay Date of ascent : 07/07/2015 Route name : Mr Starfish Length/grade/stars : 48m E3 5c Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward Start location: Approach as for Mr Blissful went to Bristol.Pitch descriptions: Climb Mr Blissful went to Bristol over its pegged roof. Climb up until about 8 metres under its final roof which joins up with the finish of VapourWare. Thread the flattened eco bolt and traverse right over easy vegetated ground to join up with Loan Star. Finish as for Loan Star. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Sam Clarke Crag : Shakemantle (Ruspidge Slab) Quarry Date of ascent : 06/08/2015 Route name : Rainbow Length/grade/stars : 18m VS 4c Climbers : Sam Clarke & Martin Taylor Start location: This route is to the right of Acid Rain and starts about 1m left of the tree stump protruding out from the wall.Pitch descriptions: Climb directly up the crack towards a fir tree at mid height, pass to the left underneath the tree where a bolt of Acid Rain can be reached on your left. Climb directly up a thin crack which has a small tree growing out staying to the left of the arête. Belay from tree at top. |
| Submitted by : Ollie Burrows Crag : Wintour’s Leap, The Pedestal Area Date of ascent : 05/09/15 Route name : Captain Beaky Length/grade/stars : 33m E4 6a 1 Star Climbers : O Burrows, P O’Neill Start location: Start at the very right hand end of the Pedestal.Pitch descriptions: Move up the slight rib on the right to reach a shale band break (gear). Step up and then left to reach a peg. Make hard moves on undercuts to get stood up in the break and then make a long reach right to an obvious hold (crux). Pull steeply up the wall trending slightly right to reach what was the pillar. This is where the original route of Captain Beaky is still intact and this can be followed as per the route. Additional info: |
| Submitted by : Mike Hope Crag : Wyndcliffe Quarry Date of ascent : 18/02/16 Route name : Dogface NOTE: See route change below. Length/grade/stars : 16m 6c 1star Climbers : Mike Hope, Chris Brockbank, Peter Williams Start location: The route takes a central line through a series of three small faces, in the wall right of ‘Canine Crack’ and ‘The sun is shining down’Pitch descriptions: Start at the thin crack running up the centre of the first wall. Make some enjoyable moves to eventually stand on the small ledge at one third height. Continue up the centre of the next section of wall by way of thin moves to reach a large undercut flake. Go delicately up the centre of the flake moving rightwards towards the top and the belay station. 4 bolts to the belay. Additional info: |
| Submitted by: Mike Hope Crag: Wyndcliffe Quarry DogfaceDate of ascent: 19/03/16 Start location:The route starts at the base of a thin crack in the wall immediately right of ‘The sun is shining down’ Pitch descriptions:Start at the thin crack running up the centre of the first wall. Make some enjoyable moves up the centre of the wall to eventually stand on the small ledge at one third height. Make thin moves up the centre of the second wall to below the large hollow flake. Take a leftwards diagonal line across the upper wall avoiding the large flake. Cross the line of ‘the sun is shining down’ to the independent ring bolt belay, just right ‘Canine crack’ Additional info:This is a change to the original route submitted for safety reasons. It now changes the line originally taken over large hollow flake and makes for a safer more enjoyable route. Original protection on the top section and belay station have been removed. |
| Comment Submitted by : John Hartley Crag : Wyndcliff Date of ascent : Original 15/04/93 Route name : Empire and Revolution Comment: Pitch originally finished direct using small pocket high on wall (not left or right easy finish)…. pitch repeated this year (2016) at same grade by myself to confirm. |
 Spare Dick Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau Spare DickDate of ascent: 21/04/16 Start location:Start over to the right of Digitus Extractus. Was approached by climbing Duncan’s Dilemma. Then pulling up on the static rope which used to make up the lower off for Suicide is Dangerous. To then gain the ledge with a shuffle right, all very overgrown. Pitch descriptions:From the bush belay, traverse right to a ledge with a crack and gear. Make steep moves up left across the wall and heave onto the ledge. Move right to a hollow crack then pull over vegetated ledges to a small bush 4 metres from the top. Abseil from the bush. Additional info:Route was climbed on sight with a point of aid in the crack used to make the crux moves on the wall. |
| Submitted by: Bill Gregory Crag: Ban Y Gor ArchaeopteryxDate of ascent: 20/05/2016 Start location:Just to the left of Almost Me. Main Wall of B Y G Pitch descriptions:Start on the pillar belay as for Almost Me. |
| Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau Crag: Woodcroft Quarry, Wintours Leap Woodcroft TraverseDate of ascent: 29/05/16 Start location:Start at Razors Edge. Pitch descriptions:
Additional info:A further sideways abseil was made from Moving On Up to the ledge system but the traverse was abandoned soon after. An escape abseil next to Ring Tone was made. |
| Comment Submitted by : Martin Kocsis Crag : Wynd Cliff Date : 23/06/2016 Route name : The Don/Sinew CommentAll the routes on the section of this cliff detailed in the SW Climbs book are described at 42 or 43m. They are all 30m +/-1m. I have half way marks on my 60s and so I am certain of their lengths. |
| Comment Submitted by : Martin Kocsis Crag : Wynd Cliff Date : 23/06/2016 Route name : The Firebird CommentGiven E1 5a in SW Climbs there is without doubt 5b climbing on it. Also, the description of only 1 runner in the first 10m is nonsense – I got 6 in. That’s not to say they would hold a massive lob but the current description is very misleading. |
Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau Crag: North Wall Area Step RightDate of ascent: 15/12/16 Start location:Approach as for Digitus Extractus and Spare Dick. Pitch descriptions:Climb Digitus Extractus until under the steepening in the crack. Place gear then follow a thin line of holds right onto Spare Dick after its crux. Finish up Spare Dick. Additional info:Route was climbed on sight. Very serious to second as there is no gear on the traverse right and a fall would have you landing on the ledge.  Dave Parker Crag: Wintours Leap,Great Wall Dave ParkerDate of ascent: 28/01/17 Start location:Abseil from the road sign on the bend of the B4228 before Lancaut Lane appears on the left. Abseil approximately 12 metres and swing over to a 1 peg belay on the left. Pitch descriptions:Make an earthy Traverse left over the corner and stop on the earthy bank atop bushes under the yellowish wall. Stretch up to clip an extended peg. Move up the wall and make a long move to good holds and step left to the small tree on the arête and an abseil station. Additional info:Cleaned in December resulting in a badly scratched eye I returned today. Fixed abseil rope to the peg belay. Secured a lead rope to this and self belayed myself with a gri gri up the route. Broke a foothold on the last move and took a fall onto the peg in the yellow wall. Ended up aiding the route to the tree as I bashed myself in the fall. Backroped to the peg belay and climbed out on the abseil rope. In memory of Dave Parker a Gloucestershire climber. |
| Submitted by: Mike Hope Crag: Wintours Leap, The Great Wall, Small Wall One for ButtonDate of ascent: 19/04/17 Start location:Small wall can only be sensibly reached by following the access for Narcotic corner and ‘Suicide is Dangerous’ as currently described in the guide book. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, walk down 3 metres to a multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small wall. ‘One for button’ takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of ‘Under a Raging Moon’ Pitch descriptions:Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall. traverse left, then straight up through several horizontal breaks (one with many fossilised shells) to the thread well below the break in the roof. Move up again (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then reach out right (good friend placement) and a high step up onto the upper wall to better holds, more protection and a good rest. Arrange wire(s) and climb the delightful technical wall (peg) to a hard, thin few moves and eventual slap for the ledge and mantle to the top, (slightly easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge. Additional info:Small Wall has been extensively cleaned and the original routes of ‘Under a Raging Moon’ (15m E2 5c) and ‘Northerners Can’t Climb’ (15m E1 5b) have also now had their threads replaced. The former route is worthy of a star as with ‘One for Button’, both routes have high quality rock and interest of line packed into their short 15 metres. They are indeed little Gems !! |
 James Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau JamesDate of ascent: 28/05/17 Start location:Start just to the left of Daydream. Pitch descriptions:A pitch to replace Breaking Bad. Stand on the massive block. Move up then left and mantle the small bush in the dirty groove to a peg on the left. Move diagonally up left across the wall into the crystal crack near the arête (this is all that is left over from the start of Breaking Bad.) Now go left onto the vegetated ledge and up past a peg to the cave. Clip a thread on the right and traverse right to the cable at the start of Nightmare of Brown Sugar. Finish up this and take a hanging belay at the top. Additional info:Named after James Matthews. RIP. |
Wintour’s Leap > Fly Wall > Flyte WallFly in the Ivy13m E2 5b ☆ |
Wintour’s Leap > Fly Wall > Flyte WallFlies undone12 VS 4b |
Wintour’s Leap > The Great Wall > The Original SectorRoute Comment by Mike Hope: Fade to Pink01-Jan-1970, |
Wintour’s Leap > The Woodcroft Quarry > The Terrace SectorThingfrith11m F6a+ |
Wintour’s Leap > Fly Wall > Firefly Sector
Alphafly13m E4 6b ☆☆ Having now completed the first ascent on lead I believe the route should now be downgraded from E4 6b to E3 6a A fine, direct, intermittent thin crack line up the centre of the steep wall situated between the corner crack 1st pitch of Bulging Flies on the left and the 1st pitch of Vapona on the right. A great variety of thin climbing before and after the short but tough crux. A bold start then leads to good protection, the crux is protected by a peg. Bolt belays on the ledge above. The corner crack on the left is definitely out of bounds. |
Wintour’s Leap > Fly Wall > Flyte WallRoute Comment: Fly Havoc01-Jan-1970, |
Wintour’s Leap > The Woodcroft Quarry > The Terrace SectorCorner Crack Eliminate18m F6b+ ☆ |
Wintour’s Leap > The Woodcroft Quarry > The Semi-Circular Buttress
Between the Lines30m F6a+ |
Wintour’s Leap > The South Bay > Bottle Buttress and Central Rib1 Pint of Lager and a Jacket of Snips40m E3 5b ☆ |
Wintour’s Leap > The Central Bay > Terry’s Wall
|
