New Routes – Lleyn

Northern Lleyn > Craig Wen > Seler Ddu

Reynard the Fox

20m, HS, 2 stars
26-Aug-2013, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start: (Grid Ref 431 473) See this PDF … for location and details of other climbs. Right of the buttress containing ‘Weetabix’ is another buttress with an obvious narrow slab of rough grey rock. Start below the centre of this, just right of some piled blocks.

4b, Move up over a bulge to gain the slab, and follow it to some small ledges below a slight steepening. Gain a bottomless flake crack from slightly right, swing left, then go straight up to finish. Superb rough and sound rock.

Additional info:
An obvious line when approaching the crag, so possibly done before ?

Northern Lleyn > Craig Wen > Seler Ddu

Sunspots

17m, S 1 star
26-Aug-2013, Denise Forster, Simon Needham
Start: See details for ‘Reynard The Fox’. This route takes a line to the left of that route.

4a, From the top of the piled blocks left of Reynard The Fox, ascend a slim square cut groove on the left of the smoother slab, then start right on up a shallow scoop – groove. Finish up the left arête of the upper slab. Sparse protection.

Northern Lleyn > Craig Wen > Seler Ddu

Reynard the Fox (Paso Doble & Sunspots)

Comment by Kevin Davies:
The routes Reynard the Fox(originally named Paso Doble & Sunspots (originally Lindy Hop) were cleaned and climbed in summer 2008 by Kev Davies and Clive Heath but were never recorded, a large block was removed on Lindy Hop,Further (R) again is a sharp slaty arête with an overhang split down its centre, this is taken by (Jitterbug) VD. tread carefully

Northern Lleyn > Craig yr Hafn

Waxwing

50m E3 5c 1 star
25-Jul-2017, Steve Long, Tim Jepson
Start as for Pistachio/Verdigris at the embedded boulder at the right end of the terrace, directly below the big corner system that Icarus touches but breaks away again.

1. 30m. 5c. A tricky start takes the undercut groove, pulling harder on the prominent rock finger than you would like to. Continue in the same line up a shallow groove and pull over the capping overlap, making for a lone Rowan sapling. The climbing now eases: a steep ramp leads leftwards to a ledge in the corner.
2. 20m. 5b. Continue straight up the corner to a capping overlap with some slightly dubious jammed blocks. Undercut these and pull straight over. Easier climbing on brittle flat holds leads to the top.

Aberdaron Area > Porth Lago

7-Aug-2013, Jamie Barclay and Jamie Macdonald

Start: From the car park at Port Iago walk right along the cliff top. At the penultimate promontory before the Penrhyn Mawr headland, it is possible to scramble down an arête. At low tide traverse Southwards around the arête to reach a small zawn with good belay ledges. Please see topo above. Routes are described left to right.

The Puking Squirrel

HVS
At the first belay ledge, ascend the slab and finish via the obvious lichen-free crack. Belay on the fence. NB occupied bird nest as of 07.08.13 – avoiding this is possible by moving right but is slightly harder.

Seal Squeal

E1 **
From the left hand of the second belay ledge, ascend the crack line passing a strenuous overhang, and top out with care. Belay on the fence.

Dyke’s offer

VS *
From the right hand edge of the second belay ledge, ascend the pinnacle, overlap and ramp, and top out with care. Belay on the gate and fence.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > The Golden Wall

Vince’s Finest Pineapple Rings

30m E4 6a,5c *
25-May-2009, Tim Marsh and Peter Davies
Start: On the West facing wall immediately to the right of the Golden Wall. Start 15ft right of the corner taken by Vroom 23. Good steep climbing with some loose rock.

1. 15m. Climb a steep wall to a rising breakline at 15ft (good protection in break). Climb the steep groove above to a good rest beneath a hanging corner (small wires and RPs). Make committing moves into the corner on some suspect holds, then move left to belay on the large halfway ledge.

1. 15m. Gain and then climb the prominent V groove in the upper part of the cliff (perfect protection in back of groove). There are good belays approx 50ft down the slope behind the cliff top.

Additonal info:
Pitch 1 was led less directly on the first onsight attempt and was then reclimbed later the same day to give the better, more direct line described here. Pitch 2 was led onsight as described.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Stigmata Buttress

Blood Meridian

37m E6 6a
02-Sep-2010, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start: Approach as for Cripple Creek. The climb starts in the clean cut right facing corner on the farthest point right of the same wide ledge that cripple creek starts.

Climb the open book corner on solid rock until stood on the right side of the same ledge that cripple creek passes. Step right from the ledge and up, using some solid crispy red wafers to the first peg. Climb up and slightly right, pinching large layaways until a second peg is reached. Creaking flakes and technical wall climbing reach an overlap which is passed with the use of an obvious horn of rock. Strenuous and bold. Moves past the third peg (crux)lead to some good gear in crunchy brown rock. Climb direct with good gear until stood on a wide ledge. Climb the blunt arete on the left using holds on both sides of the arete until beneath the roof at its largest. Using big holds on the right and pockets on the left pull the roof (wild and very satisfying) Climb direct, by laybacking the sharp arete above and using knee bars and sidepulls until it is possible to rockover on good holds onto and reach a monster crozzle pocket.

Additional info:
3 pegs insitu. The 1st is a blade which needs tying off. The second peg is bomber. The 3rd peg wobbles a tad but is good.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Upper Facet

Futterwacken

25m, E5 6a
10-Aug-2011, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy.
Start: Abseil into the Upper Facet from the top of the crag.

Start as for Dorys Day and Absent Friends. Climb to the overhang and where Dorys Day moves left and Absent Friends moves right and climb direct through the overhang to a peg. Climb direct up the wall (crux) until the holds get bigger, but the gear gets sparcer, until a short stimulating left traverse leads to the right hand side of the large ledge of Dorys Day. Sort out some gear and step off the right side of the ledge onto a big foothold on the right arête. Good solid crimps lead steeply to finish right, directly above the arête.

Additional info:
One small blade peg was placed to protect the crux. a peg on Absent Friends can also be clipped by way of the long piece of tat, this peg is rusty and poor. The Upper Facet is very good quality rock, as good as it gets really.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Golden Wall

Walk the Line

30m. E4 5c
5-Aug-2011, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy.
Start: Approach Golden Wall as for the guidebook description and climb the E2, Knowing Her. The horizontal break approximately 2 metres above Orange Blossom Special.

Climb Knowing Her until a reasonable small ledge is reached at approximately three quarters height, belay just below the fourth break up. Follow the break in its entirety with footholds in Orange Blossom Special. Good gear at the start fizzles out to give a stimulating exercise in crab like mind control before a cluster of gear which is mainly poor except for one very good small cam, convinces you that maybe you can continue the shuffle. Continue while being careful with the snappy sidepulls, especially as your rope now resembles an uninterrupted washing line, before another very good, but very very small cam gives respite. Once more run it out mincing left until the break leads to the corner of The Faltering Hand belay. Climb out via Faltering Hand.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Golden Wall

Orange Blossom Special

30m. E1 5b.
5-Aug-2011, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy.
Start: The horizontal break above Scintillating Witches on Golden Wall.

From a belay in the corner of Faltering Hand follow the third break up on The Golden Wall moving from left to right before exiting via Knowing Her. A pleasant pitch that is very well protected by cams.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Craterer Slab

The Manxman

42m HVS 5a **
23-May-2013, Pat Littlejohn, Brandon Ellis
Start: Climbs the R side of the slab, starting up the open corner. Start at the flake belay (as for Craterer etc).

Climbs the R side of the slab, starting up the open corner. Sustained climbing, good gear and good rock (by Dorys standards!). Move up into the corner from the L and climb it to a turfy ledge on the L (belay possible with big cams/hexes). Climb through the bulge above then go straight up the slab (keeping 2m L of the grassy corner) to horizontal cracks and good gear below some steeper finishing moves.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Craterer Slab

Headwind

56m E1 *
05-Dec-2013, Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele (AL)
Start: This long and lonely lead gains and climbs the L edge of the slab. Start at the flake belay.

Care needed to avoid rope drag.

1. 48m 5a From the far L end of the grass ledge, climb the slab to the first break and traverse this L-wards to a thin vertical crack. Climb this to reach good horizontal cracks leading L-wards to the arête. Climb the groove in the arête and pass a bulge to a crack leading to a fine stance.
2. 8m 4b Climb the obvious crack through the bulge, then easily to the top.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Central Slabs

Meet Feast

45m E2 *
29-Sep-2012, Pat Littlejohn, Bob Llewellyn
Start about 7m Left of the gully formed by the huge rubble cone.

1. 38m 5b Climb the compact slab for 5m to ledges and a light quartz patch. Continue up into a groove which slopes R-wards up the buttress. At the top of this step R into a bigger groove which leads (via a tricky mantleshelf) to belays beneath the steep headwall.
2. 7m 5b Climb the vertical wall to the top – a great little pitch.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Central Slabs

Lankee Yankee

30m E3 5b
10=Apr-2013, Pat Littlejohn, Steve Sustad
Start on top of the rubble cone.

Bold but easier for the tall. Move up to the highest and from the R end of this climb the slab to good protection at a break. Move up to a shallow groove then head up L to gain an obvious hold in the middle of nowhere. Stretch up R to more good holds and a steep finish.

Additional info:
Dogkind is somewhat harder than VS, more like a serious HVS.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Stigmata Buttress

Pushing for Rail

40m E8 6b ☆☆
24-Jul-2018, Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt
Start: A reasonably direct line up the steepest and longest section of Stigmata’s most unreliable and friable. The line is independent, between The Gross clinic and Melody and has one peg about half way up the first section before a large ledge. After the ledge, the route climbs the orange wall above. Good cams in the break at the start of the climbing, then apart from a few bits of ‘it may, or may not hold’ gear, the peg gives the best gear to that point. The gear improves after the peg and the lower wall crux. Start on the tottering pillar to the left of the large tottering pillar of Melody/Rust Never Sleeps. Good cams in break.

Athletic and bold climbing directly up the lower wall passing a peg lead to a break. Pull right around the bulge to a large ledge below the orange wall. Arrange gear in the corner, (other gear is available but not the best), before pulling right onto the wall and climbing direct past the small overhanging band and technical crux, to good gear in breaks. A few more hard moves moving slightly left via a big crozzly pocket, and then right again, lead to the top.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Stigmata Buttress

The Zither Player

40m E7 6a ☆☆
16-Aug-2018, Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt
Start: An independent line on the right side of Stigmata Buttress between Rust Never Sleeps and Rocking in the Free World. Start a couple of meters to the left of the corner of Rocking in the Free World at a funky band of red rock.

Climb direct following a vague crack. Place good cams and steeply teeter upwards passing more funky red rock ledges which provide the gear in the form of slings. Aim for a ‘red horn’ which is a bit hollow, before the crux moves and good gear in a pocket. A short and pumpy, right to left hand traverse on good holds lead direct to more good gear and steeper ground until directly beneath the arete to the right of Rust Never Sleeps upper section. Pull around the overhang beneath the arete, on the left, before forcing yourself, after a couple of moves up the wall, back right onto the arete. Climb the arete using holds on either side until a junction, at the top of the arete, with Rust Never Sleeps. Where Rust traverses left, climb overhangs direct passing through a prominent v-notch. Mantle the v-notch and a few moves lead to the top.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Stigmata Buttress

Destiny

40m E7 6b ☆☆
16-Aug-2018, Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock
Start: Climbs the steep prow and smooth wall to the right of Bobok. Start just left of the foot of the prow.

Climb brittle juggy flakes for 6 meters to a ledge, move up and right on crunchy holds to gain a standing position on a red sandstone shelf. Continue up and rightwards, carefully(!) to a resting position beneath a small roof. Place the first good gear under the roof with great relief and make stiff pulls over the roof and next overlap (1st crux), into a crack, continue up veering slightly right for gear in a hollow pillar and rest. Step left and cross the golden wall to horizontal breaks below the blunt rib in the white wall above. (2nd crux) Crimps on perfect rock lead up the rib to the top.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Stigmata Buttress

The Mudshark 40 E8 6b ☆☆☆

04-Sep-2018, Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock
Start as for Rust Never Sleeps and climb it to a resting position in the base of the groove.

Step up, clip the peg then boldly break out left onto the steep arête. Climb straight up for 10m passing a pair of short stacked blade pegs and a crucial DMM blue offset to a shakeout at a crumbly break below the golden headwall. (Good medium cams). Climb diagonally right on fragile crimps to the arête and continue up this to good small cams beneath the final steep wall. Sprint up this to the top. First ascent: Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 4th September 2018.

Cilan Area > Craig Dorys > Stigmata Buttress

Comin’ Apart At Every Nail.

40m E7 6a ☆☆
08-Aug-2019, Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt
A steep and worrying climb based on the section of wall between the flake of Crucial Condition and the corner/offwidth/chimney of Error of Judgement. Climb the stepped corner of Error of Judgement for approximately 10m until the corner becomes vertical. Arrange protection and step right onto the steep grey wall follow a rising, left to right ledge system (feet on the ledge). A poor blade peg is passed before a grey/red scoop is reached. Poor protection in the form of a very small wire is the only protection. Exit the scoop left, on good, solid holds, before a few steep and worrying moves lead to better holds and gear (crux). Climb directly up into the base of an overhanging groove which is followed, passing a large brown crunchy pocket and then another bigger pocket. Steep moves out of the large pocket lead to a pillar and rest. Climb the wall directly above the pillar to a break. Fill the break with as many small to medium cams as you have before a few moves right lead to a great big pocket. Pull directly up out of the pocket to a small break and pull up again to a small flat ledge. A left finger traverse, and a few tricky moves, finds you (hopefully) on the big hold in the middle of the white wall. A few more strenuous pulls lead to the top.

Cilan Area

Tair Gwaith i Ynys Enlli. Three Times to Ynys Enlli.

30m E2 5c ☆☆☆
03-Aug-2023, Andy Taylor Sam Hawkins
Start on the belay ledge of Path to Rome. Climb up for 5m until it is possible to move left for 5 metres beneath a bulge. Pull over the bulge by an excellent large cam and a fist jam. Climb up to the next break. Traverse left for another 5m, using a slim white quartz ledge for feet, until it is possible to climb a groove to a larger overhang. Pull round the over to the right. Move up to a large flat ledge. No hands rest and a few good wires. From here there is a flake up and left this is blind and rounded. Ignore the blind flake, instead climb the wall above the wires to the break. Large and very large cams (Camelot #5) here. Now grovel left for 3 metres into the finishing groove. More gear. Climb to the top.

Ty’n Tywyn Quarries > Quarry 2

Cyan

12m E2 5b
26-Apr-2008, Dylan Burgess
Start: Quarry 2 (the car park) at the far end right of the route slash and burn and just left of the point where the cliff deteriorates into the hillside is an obvious small blank slab topped by some large loose looking blocks.

40ft – Start approx 2 metres left of a dirty looking crack (out of bounds) climb the slab direct on small edges to the loose looking blocks to top out in the gorse bushes. fairly bold as no protection till about 35ft up.Additional info:
Lead after abseil inspection to check the soundness of the top blocks.

Ty’n Tywyn Quarries > Quarry 5

Fe

20m HVS 5a
21-Jul-2012, I A Jones, Laura Richards
Start in a bay to the right of the main quarry of Quarry 5 below a rib.

Head up till possible to step left into a groove. Delicate moves up this to reach easier ground and a broad grassy ledge.

Additional info:
This route follows a line of bolt studs, these are rusted, but they are not that old. No idea who placed them!! Certainly not me!! There is a bolt on the terrace/broad grassy ledge and there are other bolts in Quarry 2 that seem to be part of a kind of Via Ferrata/clip course? The bolts were not used during this ‘first’ ascent (?), it would have been relatively simple matter to ‘clench loop’ them closing up the nuts on wires. Climbed using small wires, it is technically fairly easy but quite bold when done like this.

Ty’n Tywyn Quarries > Microcosm Bay

Joshua

11m S
16-Jul-2013, Amy Holland, Dylan Burgess
Start: Just right of Microcosm Bay and at same level directly beneath the incline approach into main quarry’s is a small natural face, this route climbs the pleasant left side of wall just right of its arête.

11m severe Climb the wall just right of the left edge on positive holds all the way

Additional info:
Both onsight solo

Ty’n Tywyn Quarries > Microcosm Bay

Amy

11m S
16-Jul-2013 Amy Holland, Dylan Burgess
Start: To the right of new route ‘Joshua’. Straight up centre of face on large slightly wobbly flakes.

11m severe Right of Joshua direct up centre of wall on large flakes.pleasant

Additional info:
Both insight solo

Ty’n Tywyn Quarries > Quarry 4

Holey Guacamole

40m E2 5c 1*
28-Nov-2016, Tim Neill, Donald King
Start: Mid way between Ferrous and Any Old Iron, quarry 4

1. 5b 25m Locate an obvious thread/bore hole in the roof just left of Ferrous. Climb to this and pull over on good holds. Follow Ferrous for a few metres until below some more obvious holes. Thread these and pull through the bulging rock to another roof…and another perfect thread that protects the final roof to gain a slab. Climb easily to gain a peg belay on the girdle approx 10m right of the metal spike on Any Old etc
2. 5c 15m Pull through roof above the stance awkwardly to gain the bay and finish of Any Old Iron…passing a hidden metal rod runner on the grassy ledge.

Additional info:
On sight

Graig Ddu (Black Rock Sands)

Tourist Trap

01-Jan-1970,
Tourist Trap – Diff ** 10m Climb the obvious arête to the left of the corner. FA (Ish) Chris “Vito” Vits, Alex Riley 24/03/2021

Graig Ddu (Black Rock Sands)

Poor Life Choices

01-Jan-1970,
Poor Life Choices – HVS 4c 8m Start at the left hand edge of the rippled slab to the right of the large easter cave. Climb steeply on snappy breaks with tricky protection. FA Alex Riley, Chris “Vito” Vits 24/03/2021

Graig Ddu (Black Rock Sands)

Everyday I’m Shuffling

01-Jan-1970,
Everyday I’m Shuffling – VS 4c ** 20m Start as for Poor Life Choices, then follow the obvious left to right rising break along the ripple until the capped roof. Continue traversing under the capped roof then climb the short corner to the top. FA Alex Riley, Chris “Vito” Vits 24/03/2021