New Routes – Llanberis

Fachwen

Palais Glide

10m VD
21-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one hundred metres right (looking in) of the summit of Lion Rock, is an attractive bluff of slabby rock; giving three very pleasant(and unmarked!) routes. Start towards the right-hand side of the bluff at its lowest point.

Climb a steeper section of the slab to a flake ledge; then finish up the rib on the right. From the flake ledge, but finishing up the left-trending scoop gives Happy Solstice (11m VD 21.12.11)

Fachwen

Palisade

8m VD
21-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Palais Glide at a higher level below a heathery crack.

Climb the wall immediately left of the heathery crack and finish up the white slab.

Nant Peris Area > Craig y Gadlas

PLEASE NOTE ACCESS NEEDS TO BE AGREED

Me Creatures

17m E1 5b
25-Aug-2002, I A Jones, C Powell
Start below the grooved arête left of the main corner.

Good holds lead to a little ledge, step up and make a long reach to a jug, swing right into a groove. Swing back left onto the wall and climb direct past a holly.

Nant Peris Area > Craig y Gadlas

PLEASE NOTE ACCESS NEEDS TO BE AGREED

Dipstick

25-Aug-2002, I A Jones, C Powell
Start just left of My Creatures at a crack system.

Climb the cracks.

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Distant Glo

15m VD
20-Jul-2010, BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
This buttress (Telemast Buttress?) is located on the west-facing slope immediately below the transmitter in Deiniolen (GR 576 622). From the Llanberis direction park in the vicinity of the “No Through Road” sign (or further on the main road at a widening). Walk back along the road for 70 metres, then follow the concrete track on the right to reach the tranmitter station. The buttress has two tiers, the lower one comprises a low angled slab. Whilst the upper tier is a short off-vertical wall. Start at the foot of the low-angled slab on the lower tier.

Climb the slab by its right edge following the obvious crack. Walk up to good nut belays? at the central, left-trending crack on the upper tier. Climb the flake crack 2 metres right and finish up the rounded rib.

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Glo Worm

14m VD
20-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Distant Glo.

Climb the centre of the slab following the diagonal crack. Finish up the central, left-trending crack, past a small triangular niche on the upper tier.

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Tell Tale

14m S
20-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Glo Worm.

4a Climb the left edge of the slab. Make interesting moves up the fine little wall immediately left of Glo Worm on the upper tier.

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Tell It

7m VD
20-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Tell Tale at a thin crack.

Climb the thin crack and the rib above. The cracks up the slab a further 2 metres left give a good first lead; Tele Tubby (6m D 20.07.10).

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Telemetry

10m VS
01-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres up and left of Glo Worm is a steeper slabby wall with three good little routes. Start below the arête defining the right-hand end of the slabby wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Make awkward starting moves to gain a thin crack which leads to flakes. Finish up the left side of the arête above.

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Lammas

9m HS
01-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Telemetry.

4b From the heathery break trend rightwards up the slabby wall to finish up a small groove to the left of the arête.

Nant Peris Area > Telemast Buttress p 40

Digital Wave

12m S
01-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately left of Lammas.

4a Climb direct up the centre of the slabby wall using “invisible jugs”, and finish up the rib on the left.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Azucena

11m VD
16-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start on the left side of the Afon Las a broken ridge rises in eight steps to end on the gentle flanks of Y Garn (O S Ref 621 582). It enjoys winter sunshine and is reached from the main road in 30 minutes by following the main Afon Las path. The first step, at tree level, is an impressive impending wall (no routes). The second and third steps are rather broken. The fourth step has a red wall (visible from afar), (no routes). The first route is on the fifth step just above. Start at the right end of the fifth step by a stone wall and below an attractive brown rib.

Gain and climb the right side of the rib to a ledge. A pinnacle on the right enables the top to be reached.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Orlofsky

13m HS
16-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty metres above the finish of Azucena is the sixth step; whose main feature is a prow immediately left of some grassy slabs. Start below the prow.

4b Climb up to the prow, pull around its left-hand side and gain a ledge. Finish up two successive walls. Quite interesting! One hundred metres above is the short seventh step, with a wide flake crack on its left giving Despina (8m VD 16.11.11). Twenty metres higher is the eighth and final step; a steep cracked wall (no routes). Above, broken rocks lesd to the gentle slopes of Y Garn.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Yamadori

15m VS
01-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one hundred and fifty metres above Orlofsky a wide, boulder-filled gully slants down rightwards. Twenty-five metres down the gully on the left (looking out), a jumble of huge blocks have formed a trio of brown, quartz-marked slabs facing Crib Goch. Start below the left rib of the left-hand slab.

4a Climb the rib and step around to the left. Move up, then back right onto the rib boldly; and follow it to a ledge. Finish up the slanting rib above.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Brighella

14m S
01-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Yamadori at a wide crack.

Climb the crack to the loose capstone, step right and follow flakes up the slabby wall to a ledge. Finish up two successive ribs.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Rodelinda

11m VD
01-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres up and right of Brighella, at the toe of the right-hand slab.

Trend rightwards up the slab, and finish up the pebbly crack.

Additional info:
A quicker approach to this pleasant area is from the main path; striking off leftwards above the level of the waterfall!

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Jenufa

14m VS
15-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Brighella, at the foot of the quartz wall.

4c Climb up into the base of a shallow groove. Step left immediately and pull up to reach the quartz flake. Continue up to the large ledge; from where easier rocks lead to the top.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area (p 40)

Rondino

16m S
15-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Rodelinda.

Climb the arête on the left to a ledge. Step gingerly across the large perched block on the left; before finishing up the thin crack in the nose of the buttress on the left.

Nant Peris Area > Dinas Area > Craig y Giat (p 41)

Unlucky For Some

10m S
13-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Chemistry Crack, at a wide cleft.

4b Climb the cleft to a ledge in a recess just below the top. After a tricky start, the rib on the left is almost pleasant.

Additional info:
Desire….looks very good, but needs a good clean; as does Chemistry Crack! Sharks…couldn’t be located with any certainty!

Craig Ddu > The Main Cliff

Kuro

73m E2
31-May-2010, I A Jones, K Rowe
An adventurous outing becoming progressively harder with height, the route is something of a counter-line, crossing a few climbs, but it is mainly on unclimbed rock. Start below the base of the diagonal crack forming the base of a left-trending ramp feature.

1. 5a. 30m. Step up to the crack system, head up leftwards until a step down at a down-spike reaches the base of a wall just above the holly. Move up the wall and go left to a ledge to join Canol, step left to belay above blocks.
2. 5b. 15m. Head up left to join China Girl at its shattered corner, step down left on a ramp to gain some big holds where one can go up the wall past a cam placement to reach the ramp of Zig-Zag and its grassy belay above
3. 5b. 28m. Go straight up past cracks and good cam placements to reach a bulge, move up left through this in a fairly airy situation. Forge on up onto rather suspect rock, coupled with rather difficult to find protection, to reach better holds. Big blocks above mark the start of easier territory, eventually reaching the grassy slopes above, belay well back.

Craig Ddu > The Main Cliff

Snakes on Crack

32m HVS
30-May-2009, I A Jones, D Lampard
Start location:
Quite entertaining. Starts on the left side of the pedestal, left of Sleep Dirt, below a short corner.

1. 5a. 20m. The corner allows an awkward step up and left to reach the base of a crack system. Follow the cracks to reach some vegetation and a large belay ledge above the tall tree.
2. 5a. 12m. Tackle the short steep grey wall behind the belay on small holds leads to a prickly finish.

Additional info:
All on-sight.

Craig Ddu > The Main Cliff

Bouncing Spider

20m HVS 5b
15-May-2010, I A Jones, K Rowe, L Scheltinga
An agreeable enough route, the climb starts at the lowest point of the buttress just right of Snakes on Crack.

A thin step up allows one to swing left to a ledge, then take the crack system leading up to the tree, stand on the rectangular flake above. A tricky finger-crack traces the line up the steep and seemingly friable wall above to the left arête. Finish off by a swing up right to the top on jugs and flop onto the large vegetated ledge.

Craig Ddu > The Main Cliff

Salty Dog

28m E1 5b
19-Jun-2010, I A Jones, K Rowe
This is essentially a variation finish to Sea Panther, going straight up where Sea Panther should have; though the rib left of Short Tree … can be used for an independent start.

From the start of the traverse right on Sea Panther, head straight up past a large black flake to a ramp-line leading up right, arrange gear in a crack in the back of an obvious short overhanging groove. Bridge up to gain big holds and pull through the bulge to ledges and an obvious tree belay above.

Additional info:
On-sight.

Craig Ddu > Mabinogion Area p 43

Llech Glas

11m VD
09-Ju-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 70 metres left of Days of Speed a stream tumbles down the hillside. To its left a bracken-infested ridge terminates at a series of slabby buttresses. The left-hand and lowest buttress comprises a slab with a rib forming its right edge and a rickety fence encroaching onto the slab on its left side. The slab is plainly visible from the road and is located a few hundred metres behind the Beudy Mawr climbing hut. Start immediately left of the rickety fence.

Climb the left side of the dimply slab.

Craig Ddu > Mabinogion Area p 43

Panylau

12m S
09-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of the rickety fence.

4b Climb a flake to gain the final stanchion of the fence. Step right, then left; before climbing directly up the delightful slab to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “dimples”.

Craig Ddu > Mabinogion Area p 43

Asen

12m S
09-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Panylau.

4a Trend rightwards up the slab, then continue direct keeping left of the rib.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt

Zephyr

24m E2 5b
22-Aug-2009, Mark Hounslea, ‘Irish’ George Gilmore
Climbs the wall between little Sepulchre and Demi Sec Dame

Start as for DSD. Climb the wide crack on the left of the large block and the bold wall above to good holds. Make delicate moves right to a fine layback flake which leads to the top.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt

Hot Forged Rib

40 m, E1
02-Sep-2009, Paul Harrison, Simon Cardy AL
P 70. Start just Right of Holly Gate.

1. 20m 5a Climb a rib then a short wall on the right past a big crosley pocket (big cam) and up to joint the stance of Holly Gate.
2. 20m 5b Go up a little on the right (as for Holly Gate) then climb directly up the rib – a very good clean pitch (small wires).

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt

Cold Iron Crack

40 m E2
02-Sep-2009, Paul Harrison, Simon Cardy
The obvious slash in the upper part of the buttress Right of Hot Forged Rib. Start as for Hot Forged Rib (just R. of the start to Holly Gate p70).

1. 5a As for pitch one of Hot Forged Rib.
2. 5c From the tree belay, climb up and right across the wall to gain the steep crack. Climb the crack to the top – a classic fight against the barn door.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt > Upper Tier p 71

Perp Slab

11m S
17-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Featherlight at the base of a slabby wall perpendicular to the main face.

Climb a line of flakes up the left side of the slabby wall to gain a ledge. Continue in the same vein to the top.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt > Upper Tier p 71

Fleccsible Rib

11m S
17-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 22 metres around and left of Play Safe, Be First where the Upper Tier ends at a rib, with a white patch at 4 metres.

Climb past the white patch, and follow the rib above and slightly left with great pleasure.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt > Upper Teir p 71

Health Visitor

15m S
17-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Unison.

4a Climb a short groove on the right to a glacis. Thrash up the corner crack to the top.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Falcon Rock

15m S
17-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
10 metres down and left of the large leaning pinnacle are two striking, left-trending, ramp-like cracklines (the right-hand one may be Condor Cracks).

Climb the left-hand crackline to gain a miniature summit; stride across and reach the top.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Flapwing

15m HS
17-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres below and left of Falcon Rock at the toe of the buttress; is a pinnacle flake lying drunkenly against the rock below an arete. Start 4 metres right of the pinnacle flake.

4b Gain the arete by an intricate leftwards traverse and follow its left side to the top.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf

Petrouchka

12m VS
05-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 350 metres above and right of First of the Ninth, is a rather broken crag, with however a most impressive monolith, with a smooth wall on its right! (Braich Llwyd Uchaf?). Start at the foot of the right-hand face of the monolith.

4b. A superb little route, taking the right edge of the monolith at a reasonable standard. Climb a short flake crack, then step right to follow flakes across to the right edge of the monolith, overlooking the deep cleft. Follow the fine right edge above. The deep cleft itself gives a grand tussle (Plie 11m VD).

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf

Copelia

18m S
05-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres up and right of Petrouchka at a metre-high upstanding spike, just right of a fine-looking pillar. Start at the spike.

Step off the spike and follow the white wall rightwards to a ledge. Continue up short walls to a finish up a steep recess.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf

Firebird

10m VS
05-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres up the descent gully to the right of Copelia is a red-hued slabby wall, with horizontal quartz striaitions. Start immediately left of the right arete of the slabby wall.

4b. Make a tricky pull up and continue to the top. The right arete of the slabby wall gives the equally good Fiery (10m S).

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Natty Dred

35m VS
10-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and left of First of the Ninth at a wide corner crack.

Rather wandering, but the route follows a natural line!

1. 19m 4c Climb the merciless corner until it eases after 5 metres. Above, follow the left branch of the groove to gain a ledge. Move left to below the corner of Fast and Louche, before following the ramp on the right to reach the broad terrace and the top tier.
2. 16m 4b Climb the wide, right-facing crack of Strangling the Turtle to reach the ledge system. Follow the rising ledge leftwards, go around the blunt rib and finish up a wide crack.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Tortured Tortoise

11m HS
10-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres around to the right of the top pitch of Strangling the Turtle is a corner crack. Start below the corner.

4a Gain the corner proper, then launch up its left wall on a series of flake holds.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf

Shellac

10m S
10-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Tortured Tortoise.

Climb the corner direct; using elegant bridging to overcome the vegetated section!

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Cracked Enamel

12m VS
10-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Shellac below a rightwards-slanting heathery rake.

4b Climb the brittle wall to gain the rake; move right and finish with some urgency up the slim corner.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Fankerchief

14m VS
10-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Cracked Enamel across the blocky descent gully is an impending arete. A further 5 metres right is a lesser arete immediately left of a tree-filled gully. Start here.

4c Make a steep pull up the right-hand side of the lesser arete. Continue up the arete to the top, quickly easing.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Spring Rite

17m VS
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Petrouchka at a wide crack on the right flank of a pinnacle.

4b Swarm up the crack and gain the top of the pinnacle. Stride across, then move down and left for 2 metres, before moving back right to gain the corner crack on the right of the smooth wall. Finish up the corner crack with gusto.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Shrovetide Fair

18m HS
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres up and right of Spring Rite at a fine-looking pillar.

4b Step off the horiontal spike and climb the right edge of the pillar. Move up into the recess on the right; step left and follow the ribs to the top.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Hephaestian

11m S
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres down and right of Petrouchka (looking in), the stream has cut a small, hidden ravine; containing several short walls. The lower entrance to the ravine is guarded on its left side (looking in) by a buttress with a broken front; but with an attractive right-hand sidewall with rounded breaks resembling gritstone. Start at the left side of this face at a wide crack slanting left.

Follow the wide crack to a ledge, then pull up right to finish.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Braich Llwyd Isaf p 73

Cadmus

9m VS
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Hephaestian.

4c Make a fingery pull to start, and continue direct up the thin cracks and rounded breaks to the top; good climbing! The wide crack immediately right gives Antigone (9m S 2010), passing the capping block to its left.

Drws y Gwynt Area > Drws y Gwynt p 69

Lolfa

20m VS
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres up and right of Y Tywysoges Siocoled in a grassy bay.

4c Step left and climb the fine wall, keeping a metre or so to the right of the arete to reach the huge block. Move 1 metre right and pull over the block. Make a steep move to gain the white rib on the right and follow this to finish just left of the Chopping Block.

Clogwyn Y Grochan > Central Buttress

The Hammer

25m, E3 5c? ☆?
17-Oct-2010, Lee Roberts, Stu Stanley
Start as for SS Special

Abseil from tat on SS Special Start between SS Special and Sickle, side-runner advisable in SS, climb directly to a small ledge half way up slab avoiding the use of SS or the Sickle. Its contrived but climbs quite well on good edges and sidepulls. A good medium wire on the right of the ledge protects the top half of the slab. Climb direct up slab via a couple of thin moves to good holds and ledge. Climb direct up grove left of sickle to the sickle peg belay. Pull right round arete on good holds to a crack and follow this on good holds and gear to finish up slab as for SS.

Additional info:
Side-runner used on SS Special. Could be climbed without but I feel its more in keeping with the rest of the route to use a runner. The landing is good so could easily be bouldered out by someone braver than me!

Clogwyn y Grochan > Goats’ Buttress

Febrile Lustre

65m E2 3 ☆?
14-Jun-2009, I A Jones, L Scheltinga
A route of contrasts starting up and L of Delphos at a grassy double ledge above a rib topped with an embedded boulder directly below a small holly. Grade will change as it cleans off ….. probably.

1. 5c. 23m. Go up & L across the slab, to go up again to the overlap on its L step up and right to grassy ledges. Step right immediately and swing up via large flakes to go up to a belay near a large spike.
2. 5b. 17m. The crack directly above the large spike to ledge, move left behind the oak to the base of another crack.
3. 4c. 25m. Head up left into a groove system just left of the rounded arête; go up to and pull through a steepening on hollow jugs and flakes then take the easiest line to the left of a holly tree at the top.

Additional info:
All on-sight apart from Pitch1.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Goats’ Buttress

Where the Sheep Have No Shame

65m E2 5c
01-Jun-2009, L Scheltinga, I A Jones
Varied and exciting. Start up and left of Delphos as for Febrile Lustre.

1. 5c. 25m. Enter a niche on the left then head up to the holly; move right and go straight up to ledges. Take the rib on the left to gain a weakness below steep rocks running up left to overhanging flakes pull straight up with a long reach to gain heathery but easier ground.
2. 5a. 40m. Climb the left-hand of the two wide cracks; a heathery slope leads to a banana groove with a rightward curve and ledges above. Step out left and follow the wide crack system to reach broken rocks; head straight up for the holly tree on the skyline, to finish just right of it.

Additional info:
All on-sight.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Goats’ Buttress

Chirpy Burpy Cheap Sheep

70m E1
02-Apr-2009, I A Jones, L Scheltinga
Good moves and interesting climbing throughout; though care is needed with the rock in some areas. Start up and left of Delphos at a grassy double ledge above a rib below a holly just right of Sound of Silent Sheep.

1. 5b. 30m. Move up right past a wide crack, then go up past a large foothold to gain a thin crack leading up to the base of an overhang; Delphos takes this crack. After the crack go right a touch then pull up left through the overhangs. A confident approach allows upward movement onto the rib and ledges above; step off a large flake and up twin wide cracks to a heathery belay spot above.
2. 4c. 16m. Swing up right onto a rib and go past hollow sounding blocks to reach an obvious wide crack. Up the crack to a pull onto a heather slope peppered with debris and the belay at a short clean corner; make sure no one is below you when you do this pitch.
3. 4c. 24m. Ascend the steep corner behind the belay as for Delphos then start to head up leftwards steeply but on big holds towards a holly on the skyline.

Additional info:
All on-sight.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Central Buttress

Big Bird

55 m E5 6a ☆
02-Jul-2018, Pat Littleton, Tim Jepson

Grochan Big Bird line R – Tim Jepson

Good climbing with an exciting climax in the final groove.

Start as for Babylon.

1. 25m 5c Gain the sloping ledge below the obvious groove (just L of Babylon) then another sloping ledge up to the L. Step R and climb a short wall (as for Babylon) then follow Central Gully for 7m until it is possible to break out on to the L wall and climb it to the large terrace. Belay (large Hex etc) beneath the obvious crack system on the Rhs of the wall above.
2. 30m 6a Pull through the initial bulge (as for Central Gully variation – which is well worth HVS – Menlove used combined tactics here!) then steep climbing straight up the wall gains a narrow ledge below a blank face. From its L end step up into the hanging groove and climb it past the capping overhang to good finishing holds. Continue to the big yew tree – belay and abseil point.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Central Buttress

House of Shards

50 m E5 6a ☆
09-Aug-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson
Takes the L side of the N’Gombo wall.

A demanding journey with good climbing in the upper half. Start at Central Gully.

1. 10m 5a Climb CG for 6m then branch R up a crack leading to a holly tree.
2. 40m 6a Climb straight up from the tree until beside a detached block. Step R and climb the shattered rib to some bulges. Swing L along a shelf to reach a face crack and perfect gear. Climb direct to the obvious undercut crack then cross the wall on the R into a groove. Climb this and the thin crack above to the grass slope and a belay/ab point above.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Long Tree Buttress

Pantheon

64 m E3 5c ☆☆
26-Sep-2017, Pat Littlejohn, Kelly Hillyer, Tim Jepson
Takes the impressive buttress R of Broad Walk and the steep walls above.

Start 3m R of Broad Walk beneath some grooves.

1. 25m 5c Climb the first groove (or, if wet, the L arête) to a sloping shelf at 8m. Move into the Rh groove and climb this, passing the roof on the L to join Broad Walk. Continue straight up the rib to belay at the small trees.
2. 25m 5c Climb diagonally R to reach the crest of the buttress and follow this to a crack leading more easily to a heather terrace. Belay beneath an impending wall split by a crack.
3. 8m 5b Gain the crack from the L and ascend it to a sloping terrace.
4. 6m 5b Climb the final steep tier. Sling in place for 55m abseil back to base.

Clogwyn y Grochan > The East Wing

Mothalode

63 m E2 5b ☆
18-May-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson
The obvious groove line in the face R of Jawbone.

Start at a clean pillar of rock just L of a grassy groove containing a small tree.

1. 13m 5a Climb the pillar, initially on sidepulls and moving R at the top to reach a perfect stance.
2. 50m 5b Climb diagonally R on good holds (wet in places) till beneath the roof-capped groove. Move out L to clear the roof then follow the groove, trending R higher up to a grassy break. Climb to another break then take the Rh option on the next tier (a slabby groove) to easier ground. Continue to the clifftop, belay then go across L to the abseil point above Pantheon.

Clogwyn y Grochan > The East Wing

Fathaland

40 m E2 5c ☆
16-May-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson

Grochan Rh end routes R – Pat Littlejohn

Start on top of the obvious squat pinnacle just L of the vertical fault of Fa.

1. 16m 5b After a short wall climb direct up a narrow buttress. Near its top swing R on to a flake and make a long move to a nice stance on top of the buttress.
2. 24m 5c Climb the wall above (micro cam near the start) into a shallow groove and follow this to furry finishing holds. Continue past a quartz tooth then follow the cleanest line on quartzy rock to reach tree belays and an abseil point.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Esgair Ferw p 93

Brittled Tumult

20m VS
03-Jul-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres up and right of Drama Queen and immediately left of the grassy gully.

An indifferent start leads to a better finish. 4b. Climb a series of short, awkward walls to reach a ledge formed by a flake below a scooped wall. Pull into the scoop, move up, then left to finish up the arete.

Clogwyn y Grochan > Esgair Ferw p 93

Brittlements

16m S
03-Jul-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres up and right of The Gorse Course on a rust-coloured ledge with two large spikes on its right.

Another poor start leads to a fine finish. 4a. Clamber over the large spikes and move up to another spike. Step up left and follow a ramp leftwards into the heathery main groove. Up this for a metre or so before swinging left onto the arete; finish up this in an exposed position.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Main Scoop Route – independent start

77m S
07-Aug-2014, Pat Littlejohn, Andrew Schofield
Start 4m right of the vegetated break of Dead Entrance

Step up to a sloping ledge then climb leftwards up the wall past a small spike runner to gain the ramp of Dead Entrance. Follow DE to the top of Red Tower as per normal route.

Additional info:
This is a better & cleaner start than following the vegetated break of Dead Entrance. Overall (and particularly with this start) Main Scoop Route merits at least 1 star in my view – it is a long & adventurous climb at the grade with sustained interest.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Latecomer

65 m E2 5b ☆
29-Aug-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Jim Gordon
Pleasant climbing with a steep crux, making the best of the rock between Gryphon and Brute 33.

Start as for Gryphon.

1. 25m 5b Climb directly past the Rhs of the sloping stance of Gryphon and continue to gain the L end of the ledge below the crack of Brute 33. Move L and climb the overhanging rib to good holds on the R above the bulge. Belay at a crack 4m up to the R.
2. 40m 5b Climb easily to the broad rib of Gryphon then bear L up a tiny ramp to a small flat overhang. Go straight up to a strange projecting block then traverse L to some good incuts. Continue more easily to the top.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Timewatch

74 m E3 6a ☆
10-Jul-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Chris Radford (AL)
Bold climbing up the light-coloured buttress above the initial rib of Bole Way leads to an acrobatic finish on the steep headwall.

Start just R of Bole Way beneath twin grooves.

1. 27m 5c Climb the Rh groove/chimney to the top of the block then pull up L-wards to small ledges beneath a shallow groove. Move up to a good hold then climb the L rib (tiny spike on L) to a wedged block. Continue straight up past hidden pockets to the stance of Old Holborn.
2. 20m 5b Climb the groove on the R and break R to cross Bole Way. Follow a ramp up to the R and move up to a restricted stance at a small holly.
3. 27m 6a Traverse L on fluted rock and move up into a large bay. Climb out of this and continue to the headwall. Move up to a strange hole on the R and use this to make a long move to enter and climb the groove at the apex of the wall.

Pitch 1 climbed on June 18, 1993 by Pat Littlejohn and Clive Baron.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Courtesan

46 m E3 6a ☆
08-Aug-2016, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson
The following routes are on ‘The Castle’ – the buttress forming R-hand end of the crag and taken by The Castle, Very Severe (which has been re-cleaned and is a worthy route. Also Cornix p2 should be 5a.)

The new routes are described L to R.

Start at the base of The Castle beside the grassy runnel dividing it from Red Rock.

1. 30m 5b Move in from the L to gain the obvious horizontal slot 5m up. Climb steeply on spaced holds to the base of a ramp then step L and climb the blunt rib on sharp holds to a sloping ledge. Follow a thin crack 3m R of the corner of Cornix and continue up grooves which join the top of the Cornix corner. Belay on a large sloping stance.
2. 16m 6a Climb directly into the hanging groove above, follow the L branch where it divides and move L at the overhang to a final steep wall.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Jester

53 m E4 5c ☆
01-Jul-2016, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson
The impressive crack splitting the centre of The Castle. Strenuous but well-protected.

Start R of Courtesan below a dirty groove leading to a shallow cave.

1. 15m 4c Climb the cleaner Rh rib of the groove to the cave. Move L and climb on good holds to an easy ramp leading to belays beneath the main groove of The Castle.
2. 20m 5c Climb the groove of The Castle for 8m then launch up the impending crack on the L and follow it to a ledge and belays below the headwall.
3. 18m 5c Move up to stand on a sloping shelf. Difficult climbing up the wall gains a large block on the L. Finish direct up easier slabs.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Juggler

60 m E3 6a
15-Jul-2016, Pat Littlejohn, Chris Radford (AL)
A direct on The Castle but currently lacks an independent finish.

Start as for Jester.

1. 15m 5a Climb to the shallow cave then move on to the projecting block above and climb steeply to the stance below the main groove of The Castle.
2. 10m 5a Move up for 3m then step right and climb the rib to a stance on the pedestal.
3. 35m 6a Difficult climbing up the thin crack in the wall above leads to ledges. Continue directly up the wall till below the upper overhangs then move R around the corner and up to a handrail jug leading back L to the arête and easier ground.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

The Castle (new description)

62 m VS 4c ☆
28-Sep-2018, Pat Littlejohn
A worthwhile route with fine exposed climbing on the top pitch.

Start 5m R of the grassy runnel dividing Red Rock from the main cliff, at a shallow rib below and slightly L of a prominent wide crack.

1. 15m 4b Climb the rib to the wide crack. From the top of this move L to belay below a large groove.
2. 12m 4c Climb the groove and belay on top of the pedestal.
3. 35m 4b Up the short groove on the R then pull up L around the arête to reach ledges. Move up R to a traverse line leading around the arête; continue to a large detached flake then climb steeply on big holds to a final slab.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad Fach p 96

Knavian Arête

29m S
10-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start the broken ridge left of Ground Pepper terminates at a series of rounded slabs; with a steep nose at their foot. Start here.

Climb the steep nose, then follow the pleasant, but escapeable rounded slabs rightwards to the top.

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad Fach p 96

Rabbit’s Ears

31m VS
10-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres down and right of Knavion Arête at a short V-groove.

4b Climb the wall immediately left of the V-groove to reach and follow a series of better holds leading rightwards to the rib. Follow the left side of the rib to gain a grass ledge and spike (possible belay). Move up the slab above and follow the right flank of the rounded slabs; until a move left near the top gains the finish of Knavion Arete. Good, and continuously interesting climbing!

Carreg Wastad Group > Carreg Wastad

Old Holborn (free ascent)

81m E1 5b ☆☆
19-Aug-2023, John Harwood and Roger High (climbed free)
Free ascent on 28/06/64. Maybe first free ascent?

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Climbs in and above the Valley

House of Talons

20m E9 6c
23-Apr-2016, James McHaffie
The groove, rib and face left of Rumblefish gives and unlikely outing with the primary protection being given by skyhooks.

Climb the groove 5 metres left of Rumblefish and where it terminates make a difficult exit up right to a sidepull where terrifying moves lead to a hollow undercling, a pumpy position where you need to place some skyhooks and an RP in a small wobbly block to protect the next section. A 6c rockover up and left leads to a positive sidepull before precarious moves back right lead to good jugs and easier climbing back left to a crack near the top. A serious pitch.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Three Tier Buttress

Curiosity

80 m E1 5a
17-Sep-2015, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson (AL)
A fun outing with some good steep climbing. Start at the first tier below the light-coloured buttress.

1. 20m 4b Climb up and leftwards to follow the crest of the buttress until it eases to a slab. Belay at the next tier then move 5m right to good belays beneath a series of ledges running up to the right.
2. 35m 5a Follow the ledges (awkward) until they end below a flake crack in the steep wall. Step left and climb the wall to the shoulder of the pinnacle (or take the flake crack – harder) then bear right and climb the right side of the arête to the summit. Belay then descend and cross to the next tier.
3. 25m 5a Climb the crest of the buttress via steep face cracks then move left and climb the rib to the top.

Note: The first 2 pitches of Curiosity can be used to approach Corky (which is E2 5b in our view and worth a star)

Three Teir Buttress is just 5 minutes from the road and immediately left of the stream running up beside the Cromlech path, is a 3-tiered cliff featuring a middle tier in the form of a blunt pinnacle and a nice groove line in the higher tier (taken by Corky). A steep path ascends to the right of the first 2 tiers and to the left of the top tier – this gives a descent route (as well as quick access to Corky).

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Dinas y Gromlech > The East Wing

Invisible Wall

30 m E5 6a
17-Jul-2016, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson

Cromlech Invisible Wall diagram – Pat Littlejohn

A challenging pitch taking the bulging wall R of Sexton’s Route. Take several slings for spikes.

Start 2m L of a large flake crack, below a shallow groove.

Gain the groove, make hard moves to reach a spike then pull up L to a resting ledge. Climb R-wards up a ramp/scoop to a vertical crack which leads to an easier rib. Continue to spike belays above the heather slope and from here either abseil off or scramble R-wards on to Flying Buttress.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p 118

Globe Scoop

9m HS
12-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (Solo)

Start 6 metres up and left of Sheepcat below a heathery groove. 4a. Gain the heathery groove and make a dainty rightwards traverse to reach the scoop; continue to the top. The left wall of the heathery groove and the shallow groove in the blunt rib above gives the pleasant Brws Globular (9m S)

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Pentis p 120

Skew Wiff Pinnacle

15m S
12-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (Solo)
Start 20 metres down and left of Corky a buttress forms a skewed pinnacle at its top. Start half way up the grassy gully on the right of the buttress and 6 metres below the col.

Climb a thin crack rightwards to gain a ledge on the arete. Continue up the arete on large, doubtful holds to the summit.

Additional info:
Descent:- Down the short wall facing Llanberis and so to the col!

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Castell Graig > Yr Annled wall

Dulcima

10m VS
12-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 16 metres left of Yr Annled, at the extreme left arete of the wall.

4c. Gain the arete by a bold move from the left and follow its left side to the top.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Bryn Du p 148

Laid Back

30m S
18-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 50 metres left of Bryn Du is a white, slabby pinnacle buttress; whose main slab is riven by a wide crack. Start below the wide crack in a corner immediately left of a narrow protruding rib.

4a. Climb the corner and slab above, keeping just left of the wide crack; to a finish up the square-cut groove on the right.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p 118

Common Ground

14m VD
18-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres above Cromlech Grooves and just above the large cairn marking the descent gully is a fine steep wall. Start at the foot of its left arete.

Follow the left arete with much pleasure.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Bryn Du p 148

Saccharin Chimney

17m VD
18-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres up and left of Raiders of the Lost Sac atop a flat pinnacle below a deep chimney.

Climb the chimney and left-trending crack above; good climbing.

Additional info:
Between these two routes are possibilities for half a dozen E grade routes; all on the best Cromlech Grochan rock.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p118

Catnap Crack

10m VS
14-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and left of Sheepcat below a thin crack.

4b Climb the interesting thin crack through a slight bulge to the top.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p 118

May Rain

22m HS
01-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start to the right of the start of Cromlech Grooves an impending wall is terminated at its right-hand end by a heathery gully. Start 11 metres right of Cromlech Grooves and 4 metres left of the heathery gully at a white rib. Descent:- Gain the col and traverse right (looking in), with a squeeze behind a pinnacle to reach easier ground.

4a Climb the short white rib and trend rightwards up the wall to gain a heathery ledge below a right-facing corner. Follow this corner for 4 metres, past a suspect block; before swinging out leftwards onto the front face. Climb broken rock to gain the miniature summit atop Cromlech Grooves.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p 118

Dark Corner

30m VS
04-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 35 metres up and right of May Rain a dark, water-stained slab slants up between two vegetated gullies. The left side of the slab is terminated by a rightward-slanting corner crack. Start at the foot of this corner crack. Descent:- scramble up for 15 metres to a large cairn marking the top of the desent gully on the right (looking in).

4c Climb the steep corner crack, with difficulty at first, mainly on its right wall. Follow easier ground above until a pleasant slab leads to the top.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p 118

Escape from Craig Ddu

34m HS
04-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Dark Corner. Descend as for Dark Corner.

4a A good pitch up the dark slab. Move up and rightwards to follow the blunt rib in the slab; step left and climb the shallow grooves rightwards, keeping to the right of the sapling, to a ledge. Move right and climb a wide crack to reach easier ground and the top.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Clogwyn y Wennol p 118

Spinning Crack

10m VS
04-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Globe Scoop, below a crozzly crack.

5a Climb the crozzly crack for 3 metres; then trend rightwards, crossing the traverse of Globe Scoop, before finishing up the wall and slab on the left.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Rupis

6m VD
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start two hundred metres right of Craig Bwlch Garw and at a lower level a wide, shallow gully slants up the hillside. Its main feature is a short, steep scarp wall comprised entirely of nubbins of rock (hence the suggested name for the area: Nubbinland?) on its right-hand side. This area is clearly seen from the Gromlech lay-bys! Twenty metres above the base of the scarp is a heathery break (descent) marked by a small finger stone. A further 5 metres up and left, the first line is a short corner above a nubbin wall; start here, cairn.

Climb the nubbin wall and short corner above.

Additional info:
The name means ” a scarp”!

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Rupees

9m S
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Rupis.

Climb the crackline.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Nubbinliner

10m VS
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres up and left of Rupees below a tower-like wall.

4b Climb the left edge of the tower and finish up its right edge.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Nubbinland

9m VD
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Nubbinliner.

Climb the wide crack system.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Nubbing Out

15m VD
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty-five metres below and RIGHT of Rupis the base of the scarp wall turns through ninety degrees and forms a pale wall facing Dinas Mot. Start below the centre of the pale wall.

Climb up leftwards to and overhang; skirt this to its left and follow juggy rock to the top, very pleasant!

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Nibbo

14m S
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Nubbing Out.

Climb the smooth wall to easier ground and the top.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

His Nibs

9m VS
02-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twelve metres above and left of Nubbinland and just past a dirty crack springing from an alcove is a thin, left-slanting crack.

4c Step off the flat rock and climb the thin left-slanting crack; before following a sinuous crack back right to finish up the wall and rib.

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Anubber

8m S
02-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty-two metres up and left of His Nibs the final wall of the scarp forms a scoop. Start below the right side of the scoop.

4a Climb the shallow ramp up rightwards; and finish up the rib on the left. Starting below the left side of the scoop, the serpentine groove gives a good problem; Bunni (7m S 4b 02.11.11)

Dinas y Gromlech Area > Craig Bwlch Garw (p 150)

Anubis

27m HVS
02-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixty metres right of Nibbo at the same level is an attractive recessed wall with a double pinnacle on its right. Descent:- down heather to the right (looking in). Start at the cleft on the left-hand side of the double pinnacle.

4b Climb the edge of the lower pinnacle; and gain the summit of the upper pinnacle. Move down right for 1 metre and step across to climb the rib above to reach the slabs. Follow the scrappy right edge of the slabs, and gain with some relief a spike and a crack. Step up left to good holds, and pull over the rounded headwall on the right to finish. Serious, with spaced protection and sloping holds!

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn

A Lot Less Monsterous

30m E3 5c
11-Aug-2009, Tim Neill, Nick Bullock
This is an eliminate on Scimitar Ridge. Start on King Wad.

Follow King Wad to its thread, then follow a steep mottled groove leftwards to the last peg on Ric Nest Monster. Step left to follow juggy arête to the top.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn > Scimitar Ridge

North by Northwest

24m E6 6c ☆
02-May-2014, Nick Bullock
Start as for Agamemnon.

Climb the first few metres of Agamemnon, place a high runner or two level with two Imps, pre-placed just below the triangular side-pull. Down climb until level with a down pointing spike on the left. Climb to the spike and make hard moves up and slightly right past the Imps to the a large slippery sidepull. From the sidepull climb left and then back right to a small Basalt column and under-clings. Good gear. Move up and right until it is possible to stand on the top of the spike of Agamemnon. Arrange gear before climbing into the base of the steep v-groove above which is level with a flying arête on the right. Pull onto the arête using a hidden hold on the right and climb it to the top.

Additional info:
To climb this route at the grade two pre-placed brass wires were used and a side runner level with them. To climb it without would take the grade up considerably.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Passing Thro’

40m VD
11-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start The dome (Moel Berfedd) above and right of the Pen-y-Pass Hostel has three tiers of rock facing the car park (GR 651 556). Cross the stile at the right end of the building and follow the track, passing the rather scruffy lower tier on its left. As the track levels off walk right to the foot of the middle tier (8 minutes)! The middle tier has an arete with a leaning pinnacle on its left. Start at the foot of the crack formed by the right-hand side of the pinnacle.

Climb the crack and follow the main arete up rightwards to finish up whaleback slabs leading to the upper tier.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Passing Fancy

7m HVS
11-Feb-2010, Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Passing Thro’.

5a. Climb the fine arete, starting on its right side and finishing on its left side

Additional info:
Well- marked so probably done before; but superb and worth recording!

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Passe Partout

15m VS
11-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start The upper tier is a delightful sun-drenched outcrop of rock reminiscent of The Nose on Dinas Mot, but juggier and rougher! The main features are a fine-looking slabby arete, with a massive flake below its right-hand side. Start at the left edge of the massive flake.

4c. Climb the left-trending groove and continue up the scoops in the left side of the slabby arête, before stepping right to finish boldly up the apex of the arete.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Passive Resistance

15m VS
11-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start two and a half metres right of Passe Partout at a thin crack cleaving the front face of the massive flake.

5a. Climb the thin crack to the top of the flake. Step left and pull over the steepening at the two sinuous cracks; before trending leftwards up the slabby arete to finish boldly as for Passe Partout.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Escalator

16m HS
11-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Passive Resistance.

4b. Climb the thin crack to the top of the flake. Continue directly up the slabby, stepped wall above, to gain a slabby ramp. Up this rightwards for 2 metres, then pull leftwards on to the headwall, and finish up this.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Bws Pass

15m HS
11-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Escalator.

4b. Muscle up to gain the top of the flake. Continue up the rib above which defines the right edge of the slabby wall; to a finish up the mossy headwall.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Moel Berfedd

Pass Time

15m VD
11-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres right of Bws Pass is a grassy gully which can be used for descent. A further 10 metres right is a quartz-marked, leftwards-leaning slabby rib. Start here.

Climb the rib.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Elektra

9m HS
02-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start from Pen y Pass walk down the road to llanberis for 100 metres then go through the gate on the right (broken down at time of writing!). Just above is a steep wall with a fine slanting arete on its left. Start below the slanting arete.

4b Climb the arête, keeping on its left wall near the top.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Euridice

11m HS
02-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Elektra.

4a Trend leftwards up the slab, using the diagonal crack for the hands. Continue up the flakes leftwards, before stepping up right into a niche at the top.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Arethusa

7m VS
02-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and left of Elektra below the left wall of the grassy V-groove.

4c Climb the gritstonesque, brown smooth groove. The grassy V-groove itself gives Alphaeus (7m S 02.07.11); the difficulty depends on bridging ability!

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Aurelius

14m HS
02-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start ninety metres above the finish of Arethusa is a buttress with a scooped-out nose and a steeper wall up and left. Start at the foot of the scooped-out nose.

4b Trend leftwards up the scoops, until a flaky slab on the right gains a scrambly rib to finish. The steep rib just right is Livius (14m S 02.07.11); leading to the same scrambly rib.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Lucilla

10m S
02-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres up and left of Aurelius, below the right arête of the steep wall.

Gain and climb the arête to easier, looser ground.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Vesta

10m S
02-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Lucilla.

Climb the curved recess and gain a ledge on the right awkwardly. Finish up the ramp.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Piazolo

11m S
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one hundred metres right of Aurelius, a beautiful reddish slab faces Crib Goch. Start towards the left side of the slab below a series of cracks.

4b Climb a smooth slab and finish up the cracks.

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Tramonte

12m VS
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Piazolo.

4b Climb the blunt rib and continue direct, delicately following the line of the very thin crack.

Additional info:
The name means “sunset”! (Italian!)

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Cinnabar

14m S
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Tramonte.

4a Move up and follow a crackline leftwards; before finishing up the cracks on the right. Excellent, and quite well marked!

Additional info:
The name is of a red mineral!

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area > Esgair Maen Gwyn (p 159)

Alvara

11m VD
09-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Cinnabar.

Follow the front face of the slim pillar and the groove above. The “dollopy” rib 2 metres right gives Growla (11m VD 09.08.11).

Esgair Maen Gwyn Area (p 159)

Clymenestra

12m HS
03-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres right of Elektra at a rib, and just right of a pinnacle.

4c Gain the rib tenuously from the left and follow it to a finish up a short brown slab.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn p 169

On the Dazzle

20m HS
18-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 200 metres below and left of Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn is a steep wall with a mass of quartz forming its top (plainly seen from the road). Start at the foot of a wide, left-trending seam of quartz towards the left side of the wall.

4a. Climb the seam to reach a terrace and finish up the quartz wall beyond.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn p 169

Dazzle Corner

15m HS
18-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres right of On the Dazzle.

4b. Climb the corner to a ledge and finish up the spiky wall just right of the corner on the left.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

That Was Then

21m HS
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres down and left of Geriatricks at a protruding buttress, forming a loose grey corner to its left. Descent: Scramble down right (looking out) for 25 metres then go down a water-washed gully.

4b Follow the quartz band up and right for 4 metres and make awkward moves up a shallow groove to reach better holds. Continue up the buttress to a ledge and finish up the clean-cut corner on the right.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

Truffaldino

20m D
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixty metres below and right (in the direction of Pen y Pass) of Geriatricks are two domed broken buttresses. A further 50 metres right a slabby face looks more promising. Start 3 metres left of two large flakes guarding the slabby face.

Climb the left ridge of the slabby face to a delightful finish up the slab on the left.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

Marzelline

20m S
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of the two large flakes.

Climb cracks in a steeper wall and make an awkward move up a small niche to gain a ledge. Continue up the rib above, taking care with the large losse block!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

Strange

10m S
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start fifty metres up and right of Marzelline is an amazing little crag, comprising entirely of pinnacles! Towards the left side of the crag is a recess, hemmed in by two pinnacles. Start 4 metres left of the recess at a corner.

Gain a pointed flake up and left, then follow the “strange” arete to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

Bacchus

12m HS
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Strange.

4a Move up the corner and escape rightwards onto a large ledge. From the tip of the flakes on the right; pull up onto a tiny ramp and follow this leftwards to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

Timur

6m VS
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres RIGHT of the recess, below a pinnacle with a brown scoop on its front face.

4b Gain the scoop and teeter up until a spike can be grasped around and to the right. Move right and reach the summit; short and scary!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwm Cerwyn (p 169)

Turandot

10m S
30-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Timur, below a pocketed runnel.

Follow the runnel up the brown wall and finish up the wide crack on the left.

The Teyrn Bluffs > The East Face > Clogwyn Pen Llechen

Childe Harold

56 m E2 5b ☆
09-May-2017, Pat Littlejohn, Chris Radford

Pen Llechen E Face slab routes R – Pat Littlejohn

In dry conditions this gives excellent bold climbing on the big central slab. From the base of the cliff scramble up grass ledges to good nut belays below the centre of the slab and about 12m below and R of a small sapling.

1. 28m 5b Climb grassy rock to the sapling then trend R on cleaner rock to good gear beneath the slab. Move up a groove, make a difficult move past a small roof and continue to the grass ledge below the main slab. Nut and cam belays (as for Tongue and Groove).
2. 28m 5b Using two thin cracks for gear initially, climb up and L-wards across the slab to its L edge. Step around into a short groove, climb this to a grass shelf then finish up a steep wall on good holds.

The Teyrn Bluffs > The East Face > Clogwyn Pen Llechen

Lightweight

55m E1 5b
15-Jun-2018, Pat Littlejohn, David Hopwood
Take cams up to #4.

1. 30m 4c As for Plato’s Cave.
2. 25m 5b Climb straight up above the stance to an overhang formed by a huge block. Pull up to gain the crack beside the block and climb strenuously to the spike on top. Continue directly to belays on a long grassy ledge, then escape R-wards.

The Teyrn Bluffs > The East Face > Clogwyn Pen Llechen

Metaphysical

70m E1 5b ☆
04-Jul-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson
A fine natural line weaving through the slabs and overhanging barriers forming the L side of the E Face. A short way up the face is a prominent scoop of light-coloured rock. Reach this directly or from the L.

1. 30m 5a/b Climb bearing R-wards through the overlaps, pull over using a little slot and continue on better holds until it is possible to cross the slab on the R and gain a grass ledge with a big detached flake above it.
2. 25m 5b Move up then traverse L to the base of a vertical crack/fault. Climb this then traverse R between overhangs, past a pointed block, to an obvious way through the bulge. Strenuous moves gain slabby rock leading to a stance on the L below a final wall.
3. 15m 5a Climb direct for 6m then swing R to a huge spike. Continue to the top.

The Teyrn Bluffs > The South Face > Clogwyn Pen Llechen

Desperately Seeking Audrey

55m E3 5b
28-Sep-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson

Clogwyn Pen Llechen South Face routes – Pat Littlejohn

A Pen Llechen-style challenge which climbs the obvious ramp towards the L side of Columnar Face (which forms the R side of the S Face). A line easily mistaken for Little Audrey (which starts at least 30m to the L).

Start below the R side of the tree-covered ledge at 6m.

1. 25m 5c Climb to the lowest tree then trend R up ‘mixed’ ground (probably wet in places) to an overhung niche beside the ramp. Gain the ramp and follow it to a good stance and belays.
2. 15m Climb the easy rib on the R then move L to belay at the flake crack of Winthrop Young’s Climb.
3. 15m 5b Starting 4m R of the flake, gain and climb a steep crack then continue direct up the light-coloured rib above to the top.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Craig Beudy Bach

Yellow Scoop

Comment by Barry Clarke
Exploration in the cwm has revealed that Craig Beudy Bach doesn’t exist! The route Yellow Scoop actually goes up the centre of Ysgar-The Quartz Rib (p 187)! Suitors for pitch 1 of Yellow Scoop will also receive a shock! The lower scoop is serious, but steady at VS 4c. However at 8 metres the scoop splays out revealing a smooth slabby wall, which is climbed on tiny circular protrusions. This is precarious and unprotected and with a 20m deckout potential felt E- grade territory!

Craig Beudy Bach (p 190)

Yellow Scoop

Comment:
Exploration in the cwm has revealed that Craig Beudy Bach doesn’t exist! The route Yellow Scoop actually goes up the centre of Ysgar-The Quartz Rib (p 187)! Suitors for pitch 1 of Yellow Scoop will also receive a shock! The lower scoop is serious, but steady at VS 4c. However at 8 metres the scoop splays out revealing a smooth slabby wall, which is climbed on tiny circular protrusions. This is precarious and unprotected and with a 20m deckout potential felt E- grade territory!

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Craig Beudy Bach

Dollars

12m HVS 5a
26-Jul-2014 Philip Biglands, solo
On the right side of the crag is a short wall, with a pocketed arete on its left side.

Climb a groove 2m right of the arete. At the top of the groove, step left to the arete, move up it to a slab and finish on the right.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Craig Beudy Bach

Doughnuts

12m HS 4b
26-Jul-2014, Philip Biglands, solo
3m right of the arete of Dollars is a vegetated crack/groove. Start 1m right of this at cracks.

Climb the cracks to the top.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr

Jaffa

25 E2 5c ☆
20-May-2018, Tim Neill, Lee Roberts
E2 5c Start as for Satsumo Wrestler. Follow this up its pocketed cracks. Where that route pulls right onto the ramp, continue straight up to gain the right side of the giant flake. From this reach up and right to a great jug below an old peg and gain the cleaned groove with an awkward move. Straight up to finish.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Dinas Bach > The West Wing (p 194)

Life West

34m S
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Above and right of Wall Direct the broken sidewall of The West Wing runs up alongside a stream, which steepens to a cascade near its top. Fifty metres above Wall Direct the sidewall becomes more continuous at a slab with a central groove line; start here, cairn! Descent:- the rocks and grass just left of the cascade (looking out) can be descended with care!

1. 15m Climb the central groove line and continue up blocky, shelving ground to gain a ledge with poor spike belays.
2. 19m Climb the wall above, then follow a broad ramp leftwards to easier ground. a scramble up the rib leads to the top.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Dinas Bach > The West Wing (p 194)

Coral Window

31m VS
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Life West.

1. 14m 4b Climb the right-hand side of the slab; then step right and follow a smooth, delicate slab to the belay ledge of Life West.
2. 17m 4c Move right for 2 metres and climb a fragile, red, quartz wall. Continue up the easier slabby rib, until an awkward grassy pull out rightwards gains the top.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Dinas Bach > The West Wing (p 194)

Aeolian Harp

21m S
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 30 metres above and right of Life West on a conspicuous white boulder in the stream. There is a lush, grassy ledge in a right-slanting groove 6 metres above. Also, this is just below where the cascade starts!

Climb up the flakes on the right wall of the right-slanting groove, and gain the groove itself just above the lush, grassy ledge. Continue up the groove to a small niche below a tiny roof. Pass the roof on its left and finish up the slabby blocks.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Dinas Bach > The West Wing (p 194)

Wind Chime

16m VS
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres up and right of Aeolian Harp on a sloping grassy ledge, below a right-trending finger flake.

4c Climb the difficult right-trending finger flake and move up a wall to a ledge. Step up and right and climb another short wall to reach the base of a left-facing corner. Move up left and follow short, twin cracks to a recess and the top.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Carreg Gwalch (p 181)

Giang Hu

12m E1
03-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start seventy-five metres above and left of Cul-de-Sac is a mirror-like sheet of rock with a wide crack in its centre. Start just left of this crack.

5a Climb the left side of the fine, bald slab to a good hold in a scoop at 8 metres. Stretch up for white nubbins, and follow these to the top. Superb, but flicking a sling over a spike on the right reduces the stress and the grade!

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Carreg Gwalch (p 181)

Wudan

33m VS
03-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres up and right of Captain’s Bluff Direct below a clean white slab.

4a Climb a short wall to reach the slab. The slab is steep and blank; so climb its right edge (bold), until a ramp leads up and leftwards to the headwall. Meander up the headwall to finish.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

Pince Nez

30m VS
16-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start seventy metres above and slightly left of the top of Clogwyn Gafr a low-relief, rounded rock ridge rises to within 40 metres of the PyG Track. On its right flank are a series of short, but excellent walls, comprising rough pocketed rock facing down the Pass. Start just right of the toe of the ridge.

4c Climb the pockets up rightwards, past a good spike, before following a scoop on the right to a ledge. Step across the shallow runnel on the right and climb the bold slab, followed by easier, delightful slabs to below the headwall. The right edge of the headwall is climbed by a series of straightforward steps to the top.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

Truffle Hunters Wall

14m VS
16-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start fifteen metres above and right of Pince Nez is a fine, pocketed wall graced by a thin quartz vein; start here.

4b Follow the pockets up rightwards to the vein; move up, then leftwards to gain a sloping shelf. Easier ground leads up, then rightwards to the finishing steps of Pince Nez; excellent climbing!

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

Alcina

14m VS
16-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start eight metres above and right of Truffle Hunters Wall is a fine wall with four cracklines. Start below the left-hand crack.

4c Move up and left to gain a flakespike below a corner. Climb the corner and follow a gangway leftwards to the finishing steps of Pince Nez.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

The Bonze

10m VS
16-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Alcina at the rightmost crack.

4c Climb the crack with interest, and use better holds on the left to finish. The centre of the pocketed wall 3 metres right gives Sharpless (8m VS 4c 16.5.12), a fine crimpy exercise!

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

Cio-Cio-San

10m HVS
11-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Alcina and 1 metre left of The Bonze at a crack which fades at half-height.

4c Climb the crack to a hollow flake on the right. Continue up the wall to a break and finish up the headwall on rather brittle pockets.

Additional info:
The name is the correct Japanese name for Madam Butterfly!

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Craig Cwm Beudy Mawr > Ysgar-The Quartz Rib (p 187)

Phonotus

14m VS
11-Aug-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Yellow Scoop.

4c Step up right and follow the right side of the rib on pockets. Continue up slightly rightwards and finish up a crack on improving holds; delightful climbing!

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

Dottore del Pesto

15m HS
14-Aug-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres above and right of Truffle Hunters Wall, and 3 metres left of Alcina, at the left end of the grass terrace.

4a Gain a footledge on the left and continue up the cracks slightly rightwards, until a groove leads to the ridge; finish up this.

Cwm Beudy Mawr > Clogwyn Gafr (p 183)

Butterfly

14m VS
14-Aug-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of The Bonze at a blunt rib at the right end of the wall.

4b Climb the blunt rib and pockets for 4 metres, then finger traverse the scoopy ledge leftwards to reach The Bonze. Follow the high level crackbreak leftwards, by an interesting hand traverse, to a finish on the skyline.

Dinas Mot Area > Plexus Buttress

Auacucho Crack

55m E1 5b
02-Jul-2009, Tim Neill, Lou Neill
This is a finger crack starting as for Do or Dai (E7 near Plexus Buttress).

Continue direct and step left to gain the heather ledge and abseil belay at top of Shining Path. A neat pitch..

Dinas Mot Area > Ettws Isaf

Melin Cerrig Gron

30m E4 5C ☆
May-2010, Tim Neill, Yan Boorman
Start as for Wimpey Pa Silent Thunder

30m, 5C, Takes the obvious sharp Pebble Mill style arete just left of the start of ST. Step onto it from the left, and lay off the arete to a succession of good gear slots. Leave these behind as the arete becomes more blunt, and finish very boldly into the heather cornice. Very good, Plexus style climbing!Additional info:
Quick brush on abseil before lead.

Dinas Mot > The Nose

Revise topo on page 212 – in order to:

1. Changes to some lines for clarification. Apologies, my mistake – didn’t look too hard at diagram, when I drew it.
2. Also to clear up misconceptions …… e.g. that there is no 1st pitch to GBH as stated in Rockfax guide.
3. Some new routes as per Descriptions I sent in.

Have not put in line showing the old start of Zeta re-climbed and the incorporation of a long forgotten variation to Superdirect …… which would make Zeta and Superdirect far more direct as well as even better.

Dinas Mot Area > The Nose

Dark Religion

20m E9 7a
May-2016, James McHaffie
Start as for the top pitch on the Direct Route, Dinas Mot.

A sustained and bold climb on mainly excellent rock, it climbs the imposing face left Direct Route’s finishing corner. Do the crux move of the Direct Route and stick in some good cams before traversing left to the arête where it changes angle. Make hard moves up the slab and left to gain the array of sidepull flakes and some gear. A few precarious moves up on sidepulls leads to rather perilous crescendo via some very tough slab moves using a poor slopey 2 finger pocket and worrying moves to gain the big ledge 4 metres from the top. Go up the easy rib to finish.

Dinas Mot Area > Little Benjamin Buttress

Graduated Rib

30m HS
13-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres up and right of Zimmer Frame-up at a boulder below the attractive rib that defines the right edge of the buttress.

4b. Climb the front face of the boulder; step left and follow the rib to a ledge. Finish up the steeper ribs above.

Dinas Mot Area > Little Benjamin Buttress p 247

Fringed Quartz

24m S
13-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Drain Surgeon.

4b. Climb the rib and trend rightwards to the block supporting the overlap. Pull over into a white scoop, and trend leftwards up the pillar to reach a large spike. Continue pleasantly to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Craig Uwch p 251

Hetty’s Tiers

32m HS
13-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 120 metres right of Craig Uwch ( at the letter H on the photo-diagram p 203); is a shallow scree gully, flanked on its left by a tiered buttress and on its right by an easy-angled slab. Start 6 metres up and right of the tiered buttress at a glacisshelf.

24m 4b. Pull onto the glacis and climb the thin finger flake from its right end. Step right, then left to follow slabs and grooves up the crest of the buttress to belay on a boulder below a digonal crack. 2 8m 4a. Climb the slabby wall to the left of the diagonal crack to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Craig Uwch p 251

Cariad 1

30m S
13-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the lowest point of the easy-angled slab right of the scree gully.

4a. Climb the brown slab and pull through the overlap. Continue, keeping right of the heather clump; then trend leftwards to finish more steeply up the apex of the slab. The right-hand line, finishing up the rib is Cariad 2 (30m VD).

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 250

Smooth to Come

40m VS
14-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 35 metres to the right of Bwtres Ettws, a slabby buttress, with an attractive, smooth upper section, curves up rightwards. Start at its left side below a short arete.

4b. Climb the short arete, trend right and follow a crack; continue rightwards to gain a gravelly ledge below the smooth section. Climb this by following the sinuous cracks; first left, then rightwards to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 251

Spill

14m S
14-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 200 metres above and right of Smooth to Come a slab, shaped like an ellipse emerges from the blunt grassy rib opposite Diffwys Ddwr. Start at a spiky block below the left side of this slab.

Pull up a short, awkward wall and follow the left edge of the slab to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 251

Lipsel

16m HS
14-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Spill at a short corner.

4a Climb the corner, move left and follow the centre of the slab; between the two mossy streaks, to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 251

Sepil

15m S
14-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Lipsel.

Climb a scoop, then the right side of the slab; keeping to the left of the vegetation.

Dinas Mot Area > Craig Uwch p 251

Pixel Pleasure

33m VS
14-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and right of the glacis at the start of Hetty’s Tiers, at a tiny ramp leading leftwards.

1. 22m 4b Follow the ramp into a heathery groove and continue up the slab to its immediate left past a small overlap. Climb the larger overlap above via the horizontal spike, before following a gangway rightwards to reach a terrace just right of the large boulder forming the stance on Hetty’s Tiers.
2. 11m 4c A superb pitch. Start 1 metre right of the boulder and follow the pockets rightwards; before cotinuing up the right side of the rib above.

Dinas Mot Area > Little Benjamin Buttress p 247

Bespike

25m S
29-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres up and right of Drain Surgeon below the right arete of the wall.

Climb the tiny,deceptive ramp and continue up the spiky arete; passing the small quartz-fringed overlap on its right. From the heather break, follow the ramp rightwards to its end; before pulling up a steep little wall to gain easier ground and the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Little Benjamin Buttress p 247

Heather on Lather

9m S
02-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Lather Bred.

4a Climb the sinuous cracks in the slab; stepping left to finish as for Lather Bred.

Dinas Mot Area > Little Benjamin Buttress p 247

Lather Bred

10m HS
02-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres up and right of Bespike on a rock ledge below a rounded rib.

4a Climb the right-hand side of the rounded rib.

Dinas Mot Area > Little Benjamin Buttress p 247

Heather on Lather

9m S
02-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Lather Bred.

4a Climb the sinuous cracks in the slab; stepping left to finish as for Lather Bred.

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 250

Smearing or What?

12m HVS
05-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres right of Smooth to Come is a dark, damp vegetated wall. Above this is another dark wall, this time with an attractive light-coloured slab on its left side, just right of a tree-filled gully. Start 7 metres right of the tree-filled gully at some obvious rounded ledges.

5a Climb the rounded ledges with unsuspected difficulty; then go up the scoop on the right to gain a ledge on the right. Step right, then climb the slabby groove leftwards to finish. A somewhat harrowing little pitch on holdless rock with little protection!

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 250

Ope Springs

8m VS
05-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres left of Smearing or What? is another slabby wall; situated directly above the finish of Smooth to Come. Start at the foot of the very thin crack in the centre of the slabby wall.

5a Climb the very thin crack to a welcome flange hold near the top. Take small wires.

Dinas Mot Area > Bwtres Ettws p 250

Blotch

7m VS
05-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Ope Springs.

4c Climb a thin crack and the rib on its right to gain the same flange hold on Ope Springs.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Squosh

22m VS
09-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start fifty metres above Garn Cri is a larger, but more broken wall. Towards its left side a boulder forms a head-height prow. Start 8 metres right of the prow at a left-slanting slab.

4b Climb the slab, keeping to the right of the thin crack; and continue up blocks to gain an optional stance below the left end of the roof. Step right and follow the lower gangway rightwards until a few scary pulls on blocks gains a slab and the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Outa Here

10m VS
09-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixty metres left of the finish of Squosh and at a slightly higher level is a small, but fine wall with a left to right rising diagonal break. Start at three embedded blocks in the ground.

4b Climb up to the break, discover the crack above is holdless; then scoot right and pull up to gain the easier arete and finish up this.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Trill Thrill

18m VS
09-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty metres right of Squosh the wall ends at an arete, then swings around to form a sidewall bristling with overhangs, rising from a left-trending boulder-filled break. Just above where this sidewall peters out a terrace leads right (looking in), below a fine sweep of slabs. Start below the right-hand section of slabs, at a dark streak leading to a bulge at 6 metres.

4c Climb the grey slab immediately left of the dark streak; pass the bulge to its left and continue boldly up the left edge of the slab to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Dark Sweep

17m VS
09-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Trill Thrill.

4c Climb the dark streak to better holds at the bulge and pull over. Avoid the mossier upper section of the dark streak by climbing the fine grey rib just to its right.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Vite

17m VS
09-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Dark Sweep.

5a Follow the right side of the dark streak via the sketchy grey slab and pull through the lessening bulge. Continue up the slab, slightly rightwards to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Eachan

15m S
18-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Vite and just left of the stacked blocks.

Climb the slab to a ledge and follow the vague rib above.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Spring

11m VD
18-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Eachan below a wide crack.

Climb the wide crack, mainly using the outer edges! The left-hand branch of the crack gives the equally pleasant Sprung (12m D 18.04.11).

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Rhych Crwn

8m HS
18-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty metres above the finish of Eachan is a stand-alone round buttress with an impressive wall on its right side; bordered to its right by a hidden, right-facing groove. Start below this groove.

4c Climb the interesting groove. The easy-angled, spiky ridge on the left of the buttress gives a good scramble; save for a tricky high step near the top, Cylchoedd (15m S 18.04.11).

Additional info:
Rhych Crwn means “round groove”! Cylchoedd means “circle”!

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Sackbut

16m S
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty-five metres right of Rhych Crwn, and at a slightly higher level an obvious white pinnacle abuts against an impending wall. Start at the foot of the right flank of the pinnacle.

Climb the cracks and right arête to gain the summit of the pinnacle; from where a pull up a short wall reaches the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

A Brown Study

14m VS
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty metres above and right of Sackbut is a short, but attractive brown wall, overlooked by a quartz roof to its left. Start on a high ledge below the brown wall.

4c Climb the brown wall slightly leftwards to reach the right end of the roof. Steep moves on the right lead to easier ground and the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Brown Cow

15m S
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres LEFT of A Brown Study.

Climb the left-trending ramp for 5 metres, then follow the curving crack in the slabby wall above. Pull through the slight bulge and finish up the rib above, pleasant!

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

How Now

16m VS
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of A Brown Study.

4b Climb the arête and finish up a quartz slab.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Gurnemanz

11m VS
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty metres left of the round buttress containing Rhych Crwn is an amazing slab rising above marshy ground. It is liberally covered in shallow cannelures, some useful, some not! Start at the foot of the shallow rounded groove bordering the main slab to its right.

4b Climb the shallow groove to a small ledge, and finish up the thin crack on the left, good climbing!

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Fal Parsi

15m HVS
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Gurnemanz below the centre of the main slab.

5b Scratch up and rightwards to gain a pocket. Pull through the steepening; step left, and climb the slab to the top, superb!

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Amfortas

10m VS
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Fal Parsi on a rock step below a flake at 5 metres.

5a Gain the flake via the finger crack; climb it, and finish up the slab.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Kundry

6m HS
22-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Amfortas.

4c Hurl yourself off the top of the spike, and climb the pleasant slabby groove to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Cysgfa Fawr (p 200)

Flaming Pearl

10m VS
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty-five metres right of The Seam the right-hand crag has been less well-used! Towards its left side is a pinnacle-like buttress with twin shallow grooves at its base.

4c Climb the twin shallow grooves and the arete above. Un-marked, superb and may be new!

Dinas Mot Area > Cysgfa Fawr (p 200)

Seams Different

15m VS
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twelve metres right of Flaming Pearl is a broad slab with a steeper upper wall containing two cracks. Start below and right of the right-hand crack at a rib 3 metres right of a polished V-groove.

4c Climb the rib and the right-hand crack above; which eases after a crimpy start.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Ganesh

11m D
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Eachan.

Step right off the stacked blocks and climb the smooth slab. Finish directly above between the cracks of Sprung and Spring.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Earache

11m VD
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Spring.

Move up and step right into a scoop. Follow the thin crack and the arête above to the top. Contrived, but fun!

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Overdomed Slab

26m VD
01-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres right of Earache at the left side of a larger, but more broken slab.

Gain the slab from the flakes on the left, and follow it up and slightly rightwards, keeping to the right of the grass. Overcome a smoother section, then move left and climb the final “dome” via its shallow, curving groove.

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Follow the Goats

25m D
24-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty metres right of How Now across a wide grassy gully is a larger wall broken by heathery breaks. Start below the right edge of the wall.

Climb the right edge, passing a smoother section at 12 metres.

Additional info:
I was beaten to the first ascent by two goats!

Dinas Mot Area > Garn Cri (p 198)

Torpedo

13m VS
24-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start forty metres above and left of the finish of Follow the Goats is an attractve grey rib, riven by many thin cracks. Start on a higher ledge below the rib proper and just right of a large pointed boulder.

4b Climb the thin crack just left of the rib, then the rib itself to the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Craig Uwch (p 251)

Snooker Slab

13m VD
13-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty metres left of Basking is a pleasant pocketed slab rising from a terrace. Start just right of the toe of the slab.

Climb the slab, past a steepening near the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Craig Uwch (p 251)

Pot White

15m VD
13-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Snooker Slab.

Move up, then traverse left across the slab to finish up its left side, keeping just right of the wide crack.

Dinas Mot Area > Craig Uwch (p 251)

Snooker Slab

13m VD
13-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty metres left of Basking is a pleasant pocketed slab rising from a terrace. Start just right of the toe of the slab.

Climb the slab, past a steepening near the top.

Dinas Mot Area > Ettws Isaf > Bwtres Ettws

Tranquility

60m S
22-Apr-2019, Phil Biglands
A variation to pitch 3 of Bon Mot. Climb the rib separating 2 slabs to its top then go up right for 6-7m to another rib before rejoining Bon Mot at about 35m. Protection is poor but the rock is good.

Dinas Mot Area > Dinas Mot > Craig Uwch

Countdown

34m S
22-Apr-2019, Phil Biglands
The line of flared cracks just left of Nunatak.

Diffwys Ddwr (Craig y Rhaeadr)

Drought Dodgers’ Wall

90 m E2 5c ☆
22-Jul-2013, Steve K. Long, Pete Johnson
A fine eliminate; essentially a direct start to Red Wall, then continuing in a straight line to the top of the crag, passing various relic peg remains on the way. Start in the scoops lightly right of a plumb line from the grassy rowan ledge of Red Wall.

1. (50 metres, 5c) Climb directly up the steep wall past a well-protected long reach at 4 metres until better holds lead to a junction with Red Wall immediately right of its smooth groove. Climb the wall to the right of the groove and continue in the same line. Pleasant climbing on excellent crimps compensates for the occasional vegetation passed on the way. Pass a ledge with tall thin blocks (junction with Chequered Wall??) and continue in the same line until a belay can be taken at a small cleaned ledge with plenty of cam placements level with the overhangs of The Wall.
2. (40m. 5a) Continue up trending slightly rightwards until the angle eases and steep scrambling gains the top of the crag.

Additional info:
On sight, ground up.

Diffwys Ddwr > Castell, Intermediate Slabs, p 259

Finca Grip

57m VS
08-Aug-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Mainly straightforward, but serious climbing on gradually deteriorating rock. Start a few metres below and right of Up Your Hacienda Jimmy.

1. 7m Scramble rightwards up the rake to gain the heathery ledge of Spring Chimney.
2. 50m 4a Climb directly to the overlap, step right, move up, then left above it. Continue to a shallow groove containing a small triangular roof, good gear just below. Climb the rib right of the groove for 8 metres, then continue up the rib left of the groove, until moves left and up gain the brown-stained V-groove. Up this for a short way, and at the level of a large flake on its left wall, traverse left and follow a series of flakes, before stepping right into a brown recess. Move up right to a shattered ledge, pull over a slight bulge and finish up the muddy scoop on the left.

Diffwys Ddwr > Castell, Intermediate Slabs, p 259

Rolling Rib

16m VS
08-Aug-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
A few interesting moves up the stepped right-hand rib of the wall. Start 6 metres right of Polling.

4b Climb the rough wall, and continue directly up the rib to a finish up the inocuous-looking arete on the left. Descend the stepped slab on the right (looking in).

Diffwys Ddwr > Castell, Intermediate Slabs, p 259

Chevres

30m Severe
08-Aug-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Two pleasant pitches up an arete and slabby grooves, start 15 metres right of Election Flight.

1. 20m 4a Climb the arete via the recess, and continue up the slabby grooves to gain a large block. Step right to a small ledge and spike belays.
2. 10m Pull steeply up above the belays to gain a left-sloping ramp. Follow this, then step right and climb brown slabs to reach broken ground and the top.

Diffwys Ddwr (Craig y Rhaeadr) p 253

Puff Puff Rib

10m HS
29-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Nos-mo-king at the foot of the arete of the pinnacle

4b After a bold start, the arete leads more easily to the finishing terrace. Spike and cam belays.

Diffwys Ddwr (Craig y Rhaeadr) p 253

Hotel Babylon

8m HS
29-Apr-2010,BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres up and right of Puff Puff Rib, the right wall of the pinnacle has an attractive left-trending slabby groove in its centre; start here.

4b Follow the groove to the finishing terrace.

Diffwys Ddwr (Craig y Rhaeadr) p 253

Scythia

8m VS
29-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Hotel Babylon.

4c Climb the wall on the right; meandering between the spaced flake holds.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Thebes

7m VS
20-May-2010, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Scythia.

4c Follow the white streak up the wall; with a somewhat commiting finish. The pleasant if nondescript right edge of the wall gives Phibes (6m VD 2010).

Diffwys Ddwr > Castell p 259

Castle in the Air

30m S
20-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location: The largest buttress at the summit of the Castell (100 metres or so above Polling); has a slabby wall facing Llanberis, and chossy, flaky overhangs on its left flank facing the Glyderau. Start at the left edge of the chossy, flaky overhangs.

Climb the left edge of the overhangs; then follow the slabs diagonally rightwards to finish in an exposed position at the top of the right arete of the buttress.

Diffwys Ddwr > Castell p 259

The Keep

17m HS
20-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 30 metres right of Castle in the Air a slabby wall rises above a pleasant grassy terrace. The first feature on the left is left-slanting grassy crack. Six metres right is a right-slanting grassy crack forming a subsidiary wall. Start at the foot of this subsidiary wall.

4b Climb the front of the subsidiary wall (crux). Continue up easier ground to finish up the face of the tower; taking care with the brittle holds.

Diffwys Ddwr > Castell p 259

Castelling

8m VD
20-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres right of The Keep.

Climb the pleasant grey slab.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Blanc Verse

24m HS
05-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 60 metres left of Esgairgeiliog the buttress terminates at a grassy ramp bounded on its right by a white-streaked rib. Start 2 metres up and left of the foot of the rib at a small right-trending groove.

4b Climb the right-trending groove and continue up slabs and bulges immediately left of the white streak; before finishing up the left edge of the final slab. A motley collection of spike and nut belays on the grassy terrace above!

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Silver Fox

23m HS
05-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Blanc Verse.

4b Climb the tricky blunt rib and the slabby groove just right of the white streak, until moves up the arete on the right gain the final slab. Teeter up the right edge of the slab to gain and climb a crack leading to the finishing terrace.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Nowhere Direct

30 m VS
05-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Puff Puff Rib.

A glorious piece of whimsy, traversing left to right across the Hotel Babylon wall. 5a Climb Puff Puff Rib for 5 metres then descend a gangway on the right. Ascend up and right to reach a low spike; move up again and commence a committing finger traverse rightwards into Hotel Babylon. Descend a little, and oscillate rightwards across the wall to finish up Phibes; with little further protection hereabouts!

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Make Sail

10m D
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start above Craig y Rhaeadr is a pleasant bilberry-cloaked alp. Overlooking the alp on its far (Crib Goch) side are three white-coloured, sheet-like slabby walls. The left-hand slab is identified by its vegetated, horizontal break lines. Start on a high grass terrace below the left side of the left-hand slab.

Climb the left side of the slab.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Three Sheets to the Wind

15m VD
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Windsheet.

Climb the slab direct, keeping right of the largest clump of vegetation.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Traipse

7m VD
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres right of Three Sheets to the Wind, the central slabby wall comprises a trapezium-shaped clean slab. Start below the left-hand facet of the slab.

Climb the facet of slab, keeping to the right of the thin crack to the finishing terrace.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Windsheet

15m VD
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres down and right of Make Sail.

Climb the slab direct, keeping to the left of the largest clump of vegetation.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Trammel

9m S
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Traipse.

Climb the left-hand side of the main slab, via a scoop.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Trappist

10m S
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Trammel.

Climb the centre of the slab through a slight bulge near the top.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Easy Hmmm

9m S
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Trappist.

Climb the brittle scoops on the right-hand side of the slab; finishing to the left of the pointed block.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Torn Sheet

12m D
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 35 metres right of Easy Hmmm at a lower level is the third slabby wall. Its left side is broken, but on its right the rock becomes more continuous. Start on a grass ledge in a shallow recess 2 metres above the base of the slab and 3 metres left of the right-bounding ridge.

Trend leftwards to gain a diagonal crack and follow this to the top.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Sheet Appeal

15m VD
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Torn Sheet.

Climb straight up the slab, and finish up the ridge of the “tower”.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Tack Right

11m D
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Sheet Appeal.

Trend rightwards up cracks and finish up the rib.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Tobander

8m S
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 30 metres up and right of Tack Right is a large block with a fine, quartz-banded wall facing Castell. This wall has a wide crack on its left side; start below this crack.

Climb the awkward crack and finish up the arete on the right.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Glaucus

8m VS
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Tobander.

4b Climb the slabby wall slightly leftwards; stand on the upper quartz band and pull over the bulge to gain the top.

Diffwys Ddwr > Craig y Rhaeadr p 253

Baktria

7m VS
12-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Glaucus.

4c Move up rightwards to gain the scoop and continue up to stand in the upper quartz band. Step right and pull over the bulge to a brittle rock finish near the right arete.

Diffwys Ddu > Cyrn Las

The Overhanging Arete – Direct Start

34m E2/3 ☆ ☆ ☆
24-Jul-2000, Paul C Bennett, Pete Chapman
Start at the last stance of The Grooves

From the stance of The Grooves traverse 4m right to just left of the arete.Make moves up to a small spike on the arete (poor tape runner) move onto the arete then onto the right side of the arete move up the wall to join the end of the traverse line at the first huge jug on the arete finish as The Overhanging Arete.

Diffwys Ddu > Cyrn Las area

11-May-2017, Philip Biglands

Break Off

10m HS 4a
About level with the start of Main Wall, and higher up than Llechau Canol, the path up to Cwm Glas goes up through a band of rock. About 15m left of the path is a pocketed wall facing the path. Map reference is SH 617 559.

Climb the large pockets on the right side of the wall following a thin crack.

Stun Run Through

10m HS 4c
Start 1m left of Break Off.

A reachy start leads to pockets and a large flake.

Little Cyclops

10m VS 4c
Start 1m left of Stun Run Through.

Climb pockets to gain a groove. Step left to a slab and go up to finish.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc

Ponc Roc

20 m, VS, 4c
12-Apr-2011, Harold Walmsley, solo
Start as for Mia

Follow Mia for a couple of m to a horizontal break. Traverse this at hand level (crossing Heilyn) to a L slanting crackgroove on the far right which is followed to finish as for Bergamot (a Barry Clarke route, not in guide – see note and link to Barry’s route at top of page)

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc

Bergamot Variation

20 m, VS
12-Apr-2011 Harold Walmsley, solo
Start location:
Start as for Bergamot

Pitch descriptions:
20 m 4c Follow Bergamot to Heilyn. Make 1 move up Heilyn then follow the R slanting crack to the big ledge. Climb the arete on its L side with one stiff move to jugs.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc

Ponc Roc Direct start

8 m, (to junction with Ponc Roc), VS
12-Apr-2011 Harold Walmsley, solo
Start as for Heilyn

8 m, 4c Follow Heilyn up the initial rib then take the L side of the R slanting arête to the base of the crack groove of Ponc Roc. Follow this to finish.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc p 298

Foldaway

9m S
14-Jun-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres left of Back in the Fold and 3 metres right of the left-hand wall of the fold.

4a. Climb the pleasant arete on a positive series of holds. The triangular slab 12 metres right, climbed on creaking flakes gives Crinkle (10m HS 4a).

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Middle Tier p 317

Serfdom

15m HS
13-Sep-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
A steep little route bisecting Celynen. Start 4 metres left of Celynen at a block.

4b Step off the block and climb the awkward wall to the traverse line of Celynen. Step 1 metre left and follow the crack to a ledge, from where a step right and up leads to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Middle Tier p 317

Toll the Knell

HS
13-Sep-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Rather squeezed, but more good climbing. Start as for Celynen.

4b Climb directly into a scoop; step right immediately and follow a gangway rightwards onto the face. Continue direct and finish up a short crack.

Additional info:
This route desperately needs a direct start up the hanging groove above the inclined slab; go for it!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Polka

12m VD
15-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
The slabby buttress below and left of The Real Scoop has a steep crack cleaving its lower section. Start below this crack.

Gain the crack from the left, climb it, and continue direct to a belay above and left of the start to The Real Scoop.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

The Imaginary Scoop

13m VS
15-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres left of The Real Scoop at the left edge of the buttress, marked by a series of scalloped scoops.

4b Climb the scoops rightwards, step right onto the rib and boldly follow the slab above and right to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Pancake

16m HS
15-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
35 metres down and left of The Real Scoop is a square buttress identified by a steep angular groove in its centre; and a hidden wide crack on its left. Start below the steep angular groove.

4b Trend right up shelving rock and make a thought-provoking move over a rounded overlap (the Pancake), to gain the arete. Follow a thin crack above to a niche, then move up and left to reach the finishing slab.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Terminal Tower

15m HVS
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
20 metres right of Y Gornel the Top Tier terminates at a fine bold rib. Its lower section is protected by a wet wall; so the routes climbed so far start from a quartz shelf on the right flank of the rib, approximately 8 metres above the ground.

4c From the quartz shelf move up leftwards to gain the rib proper. Step left again and move up to gain a scoop; continue up the front of the rib to the top. A serious climb having no protection!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Terminal Groove

13m HS
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Terminal Tower.

4a Gain and climb the curving V-groove above the quartz shelf.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Term Ends

12m VD
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Terminal Tower.

The scoops above and right, and on the right edge of the tower lead to a finish up a short rib.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin Top Tier p 318

Trimble Crack

17m S
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Mini Ha Ha at the foot of a wide crack. A good climb on large holds once the start has been overcome.

Climb the wide crack, where the angle eases follow the flake up and left to finish.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Crepes Sousette

30m VD
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres left of Pancake.

Climb the wide crack via a series of steps to gain a heather ledge. Follow this left for 4 metres, until a break on the right enables a rib to be reached. Climb this and cracks on its left to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Middle Tier p 317

Transelveinya

30m HS
18-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
A pleasant left to right traverse of the slab to the left of the huge chockstone. Graded for the start; thereafter VD. Start as for Toll the Knell.

4b Climb as for Toll the Knell and continue ascending rightwards to the small rowan tree on Xmas Dinner II (optional belay). Move up, and continue ascending rightwards to finish just right of a short mossy crack.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc p 298

Relish

23m D
18-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres up and left of Foldaway (15 metres up and left of the wall); a slabby wall slants up rightwards to a continuation rib.

Climb these features with pleasure, relishing the changing rock types.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof Section p 320

Aide Memoire

35m VS
13-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres up and right of the right-hand crack start to Er Cof.

Another bold start leads to easier climbing. 4c Climb a thin crack slightly leftwards, then pull rightwards to gain the slab. Follow the slab and pull through the overlap; continue up further slabs to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof Section p 320

Spark

30m S
13-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 23 metres up and right of Aide Memoire at the foot of the cleanest white slab.

1. 20m Climb the crack in the slab to a ledge, then a steeper slab on the left to reach a wide terrace and multiple heather belays!
2. 10m Climb the upper slab 1 metre right of the wide crack to gain a sloping ledge. Step right, pull through the steepening and continue up the slab to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof Section p 320

Sidling

14m VS
13-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres right of the start of Er Cof is a buttress identified by a steep gully on its front left side containing a tree. Start at the foot of this gully.

4c Make two moves up the gully, then pull out onto its left rib. Continue daintily up the rib until large flakes lead to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof Section p 320

Technicolour

15m VS
13-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of the gully as for Sidling.

4b Make a steep pull to gain the rib on the right of the gully. Continue up on beautiful wavy rock to reach and climb a slim groove in the rib. Finish up the rib above.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Gravestones p 307

Graben

10m VS
15-Apr-2010, BJ C;arke (solo)
Start 15 metres up and right of Espasmos is a scoop guarded by a steep quartz-striaited wall. Start here.

5b Climb the wall making a memorable move into the scoop and continue warily to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc p 298

Spikefest

19m S
15-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres up and right of Raging Thesaurus is a buttress whose main feature is a vigorous holly in its lower rocks. Start 3 metres down and right of the holly at stacked blocks.

Climb the stacked blocks rightwards, then move up the left side of the nose. Continue up the spiky arête to a recess corner. Climb the recess corner and finish out to the left.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc p 298

For a Kick Off

15m VS
15-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres up and right of Spikefest below a recessed ledge in a steep wall.

An unusual right to left traverse across the right flank of the buttress. 4b Kick off the adjacent small buttress and gain the recessed ledge. Move left to a spike and continue around the corner and cross the heathery crack. Continue leftwards along the ramp to gain the finishing slab on the left.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Gravestones > The Headstone

Stuffed Slab

15m VD
17-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Xmas Dinner on a high grass terrace.

Trend rightwards up the quartz slab, then continue direct to a steeper finish.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Wind it Up

38m VS
17-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres right of Terminal Tower and at a lower level; below where a steep wall leads to an attractive smooth slab. Start here. Descent:- down the tricky grassy gullies just left (looking in)!

4c Pull up the steep wall just left of the mossy crscks. Climb the smooth slab first rightwards, then leftwards to gain easier ribs and slabs leading to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier p 318

Double Helix

9m VS
17-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres right of Wind it Up at the foot of a brown and white coloured arete. Descent:- slither down leftwards (looking in)!

4c Climb the deceptive arete awkwardly; using the wrongly-cambered slanting holds. Follow the short heathery rake rightwards to a spike belay on the left.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Headstone p 311

Square Route

5m S
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the same level as The Cushion and 160 metres to the right is a buttress characterized by overhanging blocks on the left and a slabby rib on the right. Start at the left side of the buttress at a small square face.

4a Climb the face diagonally from left to right; very pleasant!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Headstone p 311

Thrown About

6m S
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres down and right of Square Route at a deep cleft.

4b After an awkward start climb the cleft via its right wall.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Headstone p 311

Throne Rib

17m S
18-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres right of Thrown About below the left-hand of two steep ribs.

4b Climb the left-hand rib awkwardly, then follow a slab and a crack; before swaggering up to a tree and block belays.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof section p 320

Exactamon Six

22m VS
21-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres down and right of Technicolour at the front of the buttress.

4c Climb scrappy rock up the right edge of the buttress; until thin cracks in a beautiful slab lead to a shallow groove immediately right of the headwall. Climb the shallow groove with a difficult exit to easier ground and the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof section p 320

Laze Daze

29m VS
21-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Spark.

1. 17m Climb the slanting crack until vegetation encroaches, then trend leftwards to gain the large heather terrace.
2. 12m 4b Climb the slab just left of the wide crack (using the crack’s left edge as required). Until after 8 metres it is possible to cross the wide crack and finish up the thin crack on the right.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof section p 320

Lux

10m S
21-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres down and left of pitch 2 of Laze Daze below a thin crack at the left end of the slab.

4a Gain and climb the thin crack with pleasure.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Craig yr Hwntw p 319

Fizzical Flake

8m HS
07-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately above The Mild Very Hard Hand Jam Crack a small rounded buttress with an obvious flake on its left side gives three worthwhile routes. Start below the obvious flake.

4b Swarm up the flake to a ledge. Step right and pull around the small bulge using a thin crack.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Craig yr Hwntw p 319

Reflexion

8m VS
07-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Fizzical Flake at diverging cracks.

4c Climb the left-slanting crack to reach a horizontal crack on the right. Stand on this crack with difficulty and follow the delectable pocketed slab above to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Craig yr Hwntw p 319

Deflex Crack

8m VS
07-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Reflexion.

4b Climb the right-hand crack, and step left to finish awkwardly up the continuation.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Craig yr Hwntw p 319

Hollow Trail

13m HS
07-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres below Rumblecock a massive boulder has become a craglet! Its main feature is a fang-like overlap at 3 metres on its front face; with a block beneath. Start at the block.

4a Climb the left side of the block and pull through the overlap via the quartz. Continue up the left-trending crack and groove, taking care with several hollow holds.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Craig yr Hwntw p 319

Nympholept

11m VS
07-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Hollow Trail below a square undercut slab.

4c Step off the pointed boulder and climb the right edge of the undercut slab. Finish up a right-trending ramp on the upper wall. The right edge of the wall gives Lepton (9m HS 4b), interesting; but marred by escape possibilities.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof section p 320

Gossamer

33m VD
20-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres down and left of Laze Daze at a small recess.

Step left and follow the cracked slab past a heather cornice to reach a ledge. Climb the rib above and left; before finishing up the thin cracks on the right.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof section p 320

Flakke

10m S
20-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Lux.

4a Climb the slab direct.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas p 319

Pigyn

12m VS
20-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 70 metres up the broad gully beyond Hogia Tyn’Llan, the left sidewall of the gully steepens again at a series of prows and overhangs. 10 metres further up the gully a pinnacle block leans rightwards adjacent to a steep wall. Start here.

4b Bridge up for a coupple of moves, then pull leftwards to gain an excellent but rounded spike on the sttep wall. Stand on the spike and pull into the scoop above; from where judicious pulls on heather above and right gain the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas p 319

Anwes

9m VS
20-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Pigyn below a rounded rib just right of a holly.

4c Make good, interesting moves up the rib.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Whirl

7m S
03-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The right-hand of the double col mentioned in the approach to Bluffing is supported on its right side by a series of short, but fine square-cut walls. Start at the extreme right end of these walls, below an arête; some 35 metres above and right of Bluffing and 25 metres right of the right-hand col.

4a Climb the arête.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Darlin’

10m VS
03-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres left of Whirl, below a superb grey arête.

4b Make exquisite moves up the grey arête.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Gravestones p 307

Regulo

8m HS
29-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Thrown About.

4c Pull rightwards across the undercut wall to gain the slabby wall. Move up and rightwards to finish up the crack.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > The Gravestones p 307

Regal Slab

20m D
29-Aug-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Regulo at a recess with an easy-angled slab on its right.

Amble up the right-hand side of the easy-angled slab, before finishing pleasantly up the blunt rib and slab.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc (p 298)

Ponkers

14m VS
17-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke, Deirdre Collier
Start 1 metre left of Mia.

4c Climb a groove, move across right, then back left to pull through the bulge to gain a ledge. Step right and climb the wall to finish up a short, shallow groove.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Ponc (p 298)

Bergamot

20m VS
17-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke, Deirdre Collier
Start 4 metres below and right of Mia, at a small corner.

4c Climb the small corner to the break and move rightwards and up to gain Heilyn at the next break. Step up and stretch rightwards across the smooth wall to reach a heathery groove; continue up this to a large grassy ledge. Finish up the pleasant ridge on the left.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof Section (p 320)

Flux

10m VS
23-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Flakker.

4b Climb the sinuous crack, and where it vanishes, step left and climb the slab to the top. Fine and delicate, with signs of wear!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Er Cof Section (p 320)

Aeon

11m VS
23-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Flux, below a wider crack.

4c Climb the crack to where it fades; then step right into another crack and finish up this.

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Middle Tier (p 317)

Blocco Incastrato

19m VS
20-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres below and right of the crack of Xmas Dinner II at the right wall of the gully.

4b Climb leftwards up the right wall of the gully; bridge across and pull onto the lip of the massive chockstone. Follow the slanting groove and slabs above to gain the summit of the chockstone.

Additional info:
The name means chockstone in Italian!

Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas Area > Twll Tin > Top Tier (p 318)

Muffin Wall

18m HS
20-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Ring Ouzel 2, on a terrace with two blocks.

4b Behind the blocks is a groove, climb its left wall on spaced holds to below the impending headwall. Follow a ramp leftwards; stride across a shallow gully and continue up to finish.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach

Origin of the Specious

35m E1 5a/5b
29-Jun-2014, IA Jones, P Haydock on-sight
A direct line tackling the slab and arete left of The Stebbing. Start just left of Rufus below a small overlap at 4 metres.

Climb up through the overlap to reach a foot-ledge on the right, then head straight up to the left-hand side of the little overlap aboveThe Stebbing groove. Pass the overlaps on their left to reach the boldish crux section, taking a shallow groove and the red slab above to gain ledges; don’t go up right (the line of Rufus) arrange gear and head straight up the arete with one high step. Finish up the obvious groove above the arete.

Additional info:
Notes: I have re-climbed the above route; I did it years ago just after The Stebbing, I realise it is actually quite good, but in an eliminate style i.e. blinkers on. I never wrote it up because I thought it might impinge on The Stebbing. However, I now think it may be better to put it in as a route to make people realise that they are missing out the upper (and crux) crack of The Stebbing. They are putting a nut at the base of the upper crack of The Stebbing and then traversing left 2 metres to holds on the arete – on to this line. Then moving up this line and coming back right above the crack to the tower finish of The Stebbing.

Although blinkers are needed to avoid easier areas of rock on The Stebbing, the line is an obvious one; towards the top, the description should be changed to say something like … ‘From ledges place gear in the crack, step left to get established at its base then make a number of difficult moves up the crack to its end, below a short tower/rib.’

The Stebbing is repeatedly miss-climbed; rockfax even tells people to miss out the first 6 metres of the groove; coupled with the rectangular excursion to the arete mentioned above, the route barely makes it as an E1 – probably more like HVS.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach

Failed Experiment

30m E2 5c
22-Jun-2014 IA Jones, N Carey on-sight
A good route with some exciting climbing, tackling the overlap to the right of Booze Brothers. Start just right of Booze Brothers.

Climb a slab until it is possible to head up diagonally right to reach a large flake below a shallow right facing groove. The crack in the groove leads up to the overlap and a little groove feature just above it up and right, watch out for the hollow flakes to the left of the rib. The little groove feature is the weakness that allows one to get established on a foot-ledge above. Launch up the steeper area of rock, first left then back right, to reach cracks and easier ground leading to the top.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach

Vacaloca

25m E1 5b
29-Jun-2014, IA Jones, P Haydock on-sight
Way to the right side of the crag and 2m left of the central parallel cracks of Chunders Revenge is a great crack.

Climb up to the delightful gritstonesque crack up the pocketed slab. Tackle the overhang above on jugs to reach easier angled ground, pad left below a band of vegetation then go up a rib up to reach cracks and belays.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 327

Bespoke Crack

14m VD
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
5 metres up and right of Without Wheels a slabby facet has two cracklines. Start below the left-hand crack.

Climb the left-hand crackline.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 327

Pedalo

14m S
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Bespoke Crack.

Climb twin cracks to a quartz-lined ledge. Follow the slabby wall above directly between the two main cracklines. The right-hand crackline gives Pedal Crack (14m VD 161009).

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 327

Molly Coddle

12m HS
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
4 metres right of Pedal Crack is a smoother slab, taken by three pleasant routes. Start below the centre of the smooth slab.

4c Climb leftwards up the slab via two cracks (good protection) to better holds in the quartz break. Continue into a shallow scoop and exit direct.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 327

Molasses Slab

12m HS
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Molly Coddle.

4b Climb straight up the slab, finishing slightly to the right.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 327

Molar Pull

13m VS
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Molly Coddle.

4c Trend rightwards to climb a series of cracks near the right arete to a bold finish.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Simdde Sian p329

Load Over Area

14m HS
16-Oct-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
6 metres left of Under Pressure the wall ends at a grooved arete. Start 1 metre right of this feature.

4b Climb the wall for 3 metres, then follow a series of holds rightwards onto a blunt rib. A move up a slab gains a heather ledge, from where a fine scoop leads to the top.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach >Craig Simdde Sian p 327

White or Brown?

40m D
16-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 60 metres up and right of Beavering in Obscurity, the long broken West ridge of Craig Simdde Sian terminates at a clutch of white slabs adjacent to a stone wall. Start here.

Climb the white slabs to a grassy ledge; then follow the gloriously-rough brown slabs on the left to the finishing terrace.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Simdde Sian p 327

Topsy Turvy

20m VS
16-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres up and left of Beavering in Obscurity below a line of left-trending flakes on the scarp wall.

4c Gain the flakes and pull up directly to the rib of Beavering in Obscurity and follow this route to where it steepens. Move right and follow the white scoop to the top.

Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Simdde Sian p 327

Rich Tableau

12m S
16-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the right end of the Famous Grouse buttress; 5 metres right of Get a Grip, below a hand-sized crack.

4a Make two moves up the hand-sized crack then follow a ramp leftwards into a shallow corner. Up this to an exit left to gain the finishing slab; good climbing!

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 321

Brown One

7m S
16-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the triangular block at the end of pitch 1 of Stubby Cannon Route.

Follow the diagonal cracks up the wall just above, and finish directly past the quartz fringe. The line of thin cracks up the left side of the second brown wall 7 metres left gives Stubby K (6m S)

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 321

Stubby Cannon Route

75m VD
16-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 90 metres above and right of the finish of Outside Right is a large rambling buttress characterized by a myriad of short wall and slabs. However, its right edge, forming a scarp wall: and two brown walls to its left may generate interest. Start at the lowest point of the buttress, 3 metres right of a tree.

1. 20m Climb the slabs to a triangular block on a grass terrace.
2. 30m Move right to gain the right edge of the slabs. Follow the edge with interest where it steepens and becomes more exposed, until moves left gain a spike and nut belays on a large slab.
3. 25m Follow the slab up and leftwards until short walls lead to a terrace; from where 30 metres of scrambling gains the stubby cannon block on the summit of the buttress.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 321

Jay Kay

22m VD
06-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Stretch Limo at yet another right-slanting corner.

Climb the corner for 2 metres, then make a nice move up leftwards onto the brown slab. Continue direct to finish up a shallow groove.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 321

Stretch Limo

24m VD
06-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start directly below Beasts of the Field a white slab gives two pleasant easier routes. Start 5 metres up and right of the lowest point of the slab at a right-slanting corner.

Climb the slab forming the right flank of the corner and continue direct.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Simdde Sian p 327

Adfail

18m S
20-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Under Pressure at a vague rib.

4a Climb the vague rib and finish up a delicate scoop.

Craig Cwm Glas Bach p 321

Room Left

9m VS
20-Jun-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Roam if You Want to, below a “holdless” groove.

4c Climb the left side of the groove for 2 metres. Traverse back right into it and finish direct. Good, fingery climbing!

Craig Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Pant Caseg (p 330)

Ceffyl

30m VD
23-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Caseg Fraith.

Climb directly up the broad rib to reach the sloping grassy ledge.

Additional info:
The name means “horse”!

Craig Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Pant Caseg (p 330)

Awyrgylch

30m VD
23-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Ceffyl as for Byd Bach.

Move up and follow the smooth groove leftwards for 4 metres; before striking directly up the slab to gain the grassy ledge.

Additional info:
The name means “atmosphere”!

Craig Cwm Glas Bach > Craig Pant Caseg (p 330)

Garw

30m VD
23-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Byd Bach.

Move up rightwards and climb a pale slab just right of the diagonal line of Byd Bach. Continue direct up the slab (on a smaller set of holds than usual!) to reach the grassy ledge.

Additional info:
The name means “rough”!

Craig Cwm Glas Bach

The Real Ale Twats

30m E2 5c ☆
14-Jul-2022, Paul Harrison, Fraser Ball (on sight)

Start some 50m right of Chunders Revenge beneath twin thin cracks in a fine headwall. Climb slabby rock leftwards to an overhang. Pull through at a spike runner and move up to below the thin cracks. These give a steep and difficult finish. Block belay just above.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Donkey Deed

14m HS
26-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Scoopy Doo.

4a Climb the right-hand rib of the scoop; utilizing the rather unhelpful pockets!

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Hisparides

10m S
26-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for It’s a Rollover.

4a Move up and follow the dainty ramp leftwards, before climbing back rightwards up the slab.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Rancho Notorious

15m S
26-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start thirty-five metres left of Scoopy Doo a grassy dome marks the summit of a steep slabby, sun-drenched wall facing across the cwm. Its main features are two rather heathery cracks. Start below the left-hand heathery crack.

4a Climb the slab just right of the crack, then the interesting crack itself to the top.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Drop In

16m S
26-Sep-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 17 metres left of Rancho Notorious at a two-tiered slab just left of a rock ramp.

4a Climb the two-tiered slab, move left and up to finish up the white rib.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Cam Cyntaf (p 335)

Tamino

15m VS
14-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 22 metres above and left of Niche below a steep little wall guarding a smooth slab, and 2 metres right of a hand crack in the sidewall of the buttress.

4b Step off the ledge and climb the steep wall to gain the slab. Follow the sinuous cracks in the slab up and rightwards to easier ground and the finishing terrace. Bold, with easy-angled rough rock having to compensate for the lack of protection!

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Cam Cyntaf (p 335)

Pamina

15m S
14-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Tamino.

Climb the hand crack until just short of the heather. Step left and follow the rib and its continuation to the terrace.

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Esgeiriau Uchaf (p336)

Gully The

30m S
14-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start twenty-five metres up and left of Gully Slab is a broad rib with a wavy wall at its base; start here.

Climb the wavy wall and trend rightwards up the rib to a steeper wall. Climb up this on its left side; and follow good holds up the next wall just left of the rib. Finish by climbing leftwards up the final tower to reach the large perched blocks. The pleasant rough brown wall 7 metres left is Ruff As (11m S 14.10.11) Whilst a further 6 metres up and left, the clean streak in the sidewall of the brown wall gives As Ruff (6m S 14.10.11).

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Lacquered

15m S
20-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres below and right of Rancho Notorious at a thin crack; with a small embedded spike in the ground at its foot.

Climb the fine thin crack to a large ledge. Move up the dome of slab on the left to reach the summit.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Woodbine

17m S
20-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start ten metres down and right of Lacquered a small squat pinnacle (the Gnome) sits on the terrace. After a further 7 metres right this section of wall terminates at an arête, just where the terrace levels out. Start 1 metre left of this arete.

Climb the left side of the arête on flake holds and finish up the slabby groove above.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Spiral Out

12m S
20-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start eighteen metres above It’s a Rollover is a buttress with an impending grooved wall bordered on its left by a corner. Start 2 metres left of the corner.

Climb the step-holds up and left and make an exquisite move around the rounded rib on the left. Follow the slab and right-trending groove to the top.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Trincomelee

18m S
22-Oct-2011, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres up and right of Drop In on the rock rake.

Climb the clean streak up the slab to a ledge. Step right, and gain the upper slab just right of the usually wet patch. Follow the upper slab rightwards to the top.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Trinket

8m VS
22-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of the start of the upper slab of Trincomelee; atop a slab and below a steep wall.

4b Climb the steep wall up and leftwards to gain an attractive groove in the rib of the upper slab. Follow this right for 2 metres, before pulling up into a scoop to finish.

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Esgeiriau Uchaf (p336)

Naked Spur

17m VS
22-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres down and right of Bishop Bach on an embedded rock below a quartz-marked slab.

4b Climb the quartz-marked slab; then follow the quartz ramp on the main wall rightwards (above the gnarly hawthorn) onto the front face of the buttress. Climb this on a series of poor sloping holds; until a slab can be gained on the left. Follow this to the finishing terrace.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Marschalin

15m S
28-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start six metres right of Woodbine is a recessed wall, bordered to its right by a peapod-shaped crack. Start below the peapod-shaped crack.

Gain a ledge, then trend leftwards up the recessed wall to finish up a left-facing flake.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Octavian

10m S
28-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Marschalin.

Gain the ledge, move up, then right to climb the right-hand side of the right-bounding rib of the peapod-shaped crack.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Pres

17m VS
28-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start fourteen metres left of Drop In is an attractive brown slab with a slanting overlap at half height. Start at the foot of a subsidiary rib below the brown slab.

4b Climb up leftwards to the rib and follow it to the slab. Move up the slab, then follow the scallops up and slightly leftwards, well above the slanting overlap, to a terrace. Either, scuttle off leftwards, or enjoy a few metres of jug-hauling up the left side of the white impending wall.

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Castell Terfyn (p 337)

Praetorian

12m VS
06-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start eight metres down and right of The Good Book is a chimney with two cracks in its back. Start 1 metres further right at a shallow groove in a steep wall.

4b Climb the groove and the rib on its left to reach the main ridge. Either, descend a glacis on the left (looking in); or make a day of it and scramble up to the summit.

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Castell Terfyn (p 337)

Terfel’s Chimney

14m VD
06-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Praetorian below a chimney with protruding chockstones.

Pull around the chockstones and follow the wider chimney to a ledge. Move up the thin cracks on the left to the ridge and continue as for Praetorian. The slab on the far side of the col is pleasant; the line of thin cracks below the fence post gives Deep Dale (8m S 06.11.11).

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Esgeiriau Uchaf (p 336)

Cute Cube

15m VS
06-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Rubix.

4b Climb a short corner, then the slab on the left to a ledge. Step right and layback the left side of the flying arête somewhat boldly!

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Ground Out

20m HS
15-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres above and left of Drop In.

4a Climb the pale, clean streak up the slab, taking care with the exfoliating start, to a terrace and a spike. Step off the spike and climb the steep crack. Continue up the slab and finish up the rounded rib on the right.

Llechog Area > Esgeirau > Disgynfa (p 336)

Tanner Dice

10m VS
15-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres below and right of Lacquered behind the Gnome.

4a Climb the deceptive short wall, then the fine wall above, following the line of the sinuously thin crack.

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Castell Terfyn (p 337)

Gwych

18m VS
15-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start forty metres right of the col, and at a slightly higher level, is a slabby buttress. This is divided by a large, right-facing flake crack. Start at a short slab at the left side of the buttress, 9 metres left of the flake crack.

4c Climb the short slab rightwards, under a large vertical crack, to gain a ledge below the main (left-hand) slab. Follow the depression up the centre of the slab to a recess. Step right and move through a small bulge to a finish up the short wall above. Fine, but serious climbing!

Additional info:
The name means “excellent”!

Llechog Area > Llechog > Maen Llys (p 339)

Dog Soldier

30m VS
13-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Dogleg Jive at the right end of a scooped wall.

4b Step left over a small bulge into a scoop; continue up the groove and short wall above to reach the main slab. Gain the slab from the right and move left and up to better holds (tricky!). Continue to the break, step right and pull awkwardly into a scoop, from where the top lies just above.

Llechog Area > Llechog > Maen Llys (p 339)

Tango Trip

10m HS
13-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres LEFT of Whistling Waltz.

4b Climb the slender rib, mainly by its right-hand side.

Llechog Area > Llechog > Maen Llys (p 340)

Missteeq

18m HS
13-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre LEFT of Sugar Babes.

4a Climb the thin crack through the bulge and follow the slab to meet the diagonal crack of Sugar Babes. Continue up the slab above to the top.

Additional info:
Sugar Babes repeated–grade confirmed!

Llechog Area > Llechog > Maen Llys (p 340)

Glowing Kittens

22m S
13-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Sugar Babes.

Follow the broad rib to the top.

Llechog Area > Llechog > Maen Llys (p 340)

Blaeberry Hill

27m VD
13-Mar-2912, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Blocks Away, below a slim corner.

Climb the slim corner, then traverse left to a position above the bulge. Continue slightly leftwards up the slab, crossing the line of flakes on the variation finish to Blocks Away, to the top.

Llechog Area > Esgeiriau > Esgeiriau Uchaf (p 336)

Known Boundary

13m HS
25-May-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start seventy metres left (SE) of Castell Terfyn, and at a slightly lower level, a fine grey wall rises at the head of a wide, shallow valley. Towards its right side is a vegetated, left-slanting groove. Start immediately right of this feature.

4a Move up steeply, then follow a scoop up and rightwards to gain a rib. Follow the right side of the rib to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn (p 344)

Raspberry Ripple

7m VS
06-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 200 metres left of the main crag is an area of steep green walls, protected by ravines and mineshafts. The following routes are on three small buttresses 100 metres lower down the hillside and only 3 minutes from the main road; gained by striking up the hillside from the pointed boulder some 70 metres North of the bunkhouse driveway. Although short, the routes are worthwhile; on rock where roughness has to compensate for a distinct lack of holds and protection! The first two buttresses are located 10 metres below the overhead power line. The left-hand buttress has a cut-out roof at 4 metres. Start immediately left of the cut-out roof at the foot of a broken groove.

4c.Climb the broken groove and move right onto a ledge below the roof. Step right and pull through the roof at the incipient crack and continue to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn (p 344)

Rippled Ochre

7m VS
06-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Raspberry Ripple below an inocuous-looking groove.

5a. Climb the groove to a ledge on the right and continue to the top. Starting at the same place, but trending rightwards to follow the arete gives Slippy Rib (6m VD).

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn (p 344)

Sticky Rib

9m S
06-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke
Start 5 metres to the right is the right-hand buttress with a ledge at 5 metres. Start below the left edge of the buttress.

Climb the left edge of the buttress.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn (p 344)

Spongy

8m S
06-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Sticky Rib.

Climb a shallow scoop and slab rightwards to gain the ledge. Step left and follow the quartz rib to the top.

Trickle

8m VS
06-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Spongy.

4c.Follow the gangway-slab to the right end of the ledge. Finish up the right-hand crack splitting the nose above. Starting 3 metres right the right edge of the buttress gives Syrupy (6m D).

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn (p 344)

Film Festival Crack

8m VD
06-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start up and right of Syrupy and 15 metres uphill from the overhead power line is the third buttress. Characterized by a quartz rib on its left and a left-slanting crack in its centre. Start below the left-slanting crack.

Climb the left-slanting crack, with an escape up its left rib near the top. 40 metres up and left of this buttress a slabby, low-relief rib slants up the hillside giving a pleasant scramble Hydroview (35m Mod).

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Bunker Hill

9m S
01-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 125 metres above and right of Ben’s Bunkhouse a brown-coloured slab faces Nant Peris. It is easily located as a stone wall leads to its left edge and power lines are above. Start at the left side of the slab below a small triangular niche at 6 metres.

Climb the facet of slab, keeping just left of the triangular niche. Hidden metal spike belay behind the rock bluff!

Additional info:
There is evidence of non-recent activity here. All the incut holds were laden with moss; but were cleaned on the ascents by using a knife pinched from Ynys Ettws!

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Bunkhouse Rock

9m HS
01-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Bunker Hill.

4b Climb the slab, keeping to the right of the triangular niche, to a delicate, bold finish. The scrappy cracks immediately right gave Bunkered (9m VD 1.5.10). Whilst the narrow facet just right is Bunked Up (9m D 1.5.10).

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Debunked

10m S
01-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down and right of Bunkhouse Rock.

Climb the heathery slab, past a slight overlap to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Red Square

9m VS
06-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres above Bunker Hill is a buttress with a heathery groove dividing two slabby ribs. Below, and separated from the buttress is a rock table ledge. Start at the foot of the left-hand slabby rib.

4c Trend up leftwards to gain a ledge; then follow the quartz striaitions up the fine square-shaped slab.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

OO7

9m HS
06-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Red Square.

4b Climb straight up the slabby rib.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

I-Spy

7m HS
06-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of the rock table ledge at a glacis below a short arete.

4b Climb the arete, step right and finish up the left-hand of two grooves.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Moneypenny

17m VS
06-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres down and right of I-Spy on a block just left of the lowest point of the quartz slabs.

4b Climb the quartz slabs trending rightwards to reach a heather ledge below the headwall. Move up a short corner, then follow the quartz wall on the right.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Queue

15m VS
06-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Moneypenny.

4c Climb the right-hand side of the quartz slabs to the heather ledge. Follow the scrappy, but tricky crack, keeping left to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Easy Listening

27m HS
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location: The main crag sends a broken ridge northwards towards Llanberis. This ridge truncates at a triangular buttress; easily seen and located from the main road as a stone wall runs across the cwm and meets it head on! But it is best reached by traversing a terrace rightwards below the main crag. 5 metres above the stone wall a corner contains a large tree, with a steep rib on its right. Start 6 metres above and right of the tree on the right flank of the rib.

1. 12m 4a Ascend leftwards onto the rib and follow it to a terrace with a huge musical flake.
2. 15m 4a Move 4 metres right and climb the sustained white slab to its top. Step left and go up to large block belays.

Additional info:
Some great potential here on rock that is basically granite; but has cracks and jugs resembling slate!

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Salvador’s Slab

15m S
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres below Easy Listening and on the downhill side of the wall is a 4m-high rock finger. Just below, a large block sits on top of a slabby buttress. Start at the lowest point of this buttress, below some particularly artistic quartz striations.

4b Climb the slabby nose and pull over a slight bulge to reach the headwall. Step right and scratch up the rib to finish.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

The White Art

14m HS
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 35 metres below Salvador’s Slab is yet another slabby buttress. Start on the right flank of the buttress at a small walled enclosure.

4a Follow the right-slanting quartz vein, past a mid-height steepening to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Feelm

6m S
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres up and right of Film Festival Crack.

4a Follow the left-slanting groove; then pull rightwards into the finishing scoop.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Mood Movie

7m VS
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Film Festival Crack.

4b Climb the grey wall immediately right of the crack.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Monochrome

7m VD
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Film Festival Crack.

Climb the rightwards-slanting crack to finish as for Film Festival Crack.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Movie Magic

10m VS
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres down and left of Monochrome at a red slab.

5a Climb the red slab and thin, right-slanting crack to a niche, and continue up the wall to a scree ledge. Using the one good hold make a harrowing move up into the shallow groove and continue daintily to the top.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Action

7m S
19-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres up and left of Movie Magic at a rib with twin cracks.

4b Climb the rib with interest.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Bluffing

10m HS
06-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start half a kilometre above and left of Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn are a set of buttresses just below the crest of the main Llechog ridge and facing the SE end of Llyn Peris (GR 595 585). A direct approach from the main road in the vicinity of Ben’s Bunkhouse is possible but would require an intermediate camp; but a more leisurely approach is available! Take the main Llanberis-Snowdon footpath and cross the stilegate at the intake wall. Trend leftwards to gain the main ridge and cross the boundary fence at a stile. Follow sheep trods up the left flank of the ridge, until after 150 metres or so a double col separated by a bluff of slabby rock appears down below on the left. The left-hand col lies at the top of a grassy rake above which rise a collection of attractive ribs of compact flaky rock. Start 8 metres down the grassy rake from the left-hand col at the first rib on the right, marked by quartz bands.

4a Climb the groove on the left where the quartz ends; before climbing the rib and slab above on the right.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Dripples

22m VS
06-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres down and left of Blufffing at a blunt rib.

4b Climb the blunt rib (crux), and continue up the wide rib above to a ledge. Step right and use the ripples to gain the finishing easy-angled slab.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Grisiau

22m VD
06-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Dripples.

Follow the “steps” up the ridge for 6 metres; step left and follow the “staircase” to gain a spike. Climb the rib and slab above.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Awyr Agored

21m S
06-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Grisiau at a flake crack.

Move up the flake crack, then follow the rib on the right; before continuing up the “staircase” of Grisiau to gain the spike. Cross the heather and finish up the rib on the left.

Additional info:
The name means “open air”! 25 metres lower, these ribs truncate at one of the finest unclimbed pieces of rock in the area– a 30 metre-high wall changing to slab angle at half-height!

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Awyr Lach

25m HS
07-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres down and left of Awyr Agored and below the impressive unclimbed wall are five more ribs. The fifth and leftmost rib has a perched boulder on top. Start at the foot of this rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Clamber over the spiky flakes, moving rightwards; then climb the right side of the rib above to reach a scoop. Finish up the delicate arete forming the right edge of the scoop.

Additional info:
The name means “fresh air”!

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Aredig

45m VS
07-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 35 metres down and left of Awyr Iach and 6 metres left of a silver birch are two ribs. The right-hand rib contains a green flake crack. Start at the foot of the left-hand rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the clean left-hand rib and follow easier ground rightwards to reach a small cracked slab below a larger slab above and right. Move down slightly to the right and pull up twin cracks to gain the large slab. Climb the wide crack, then the slim corner on the left; before moving up a short slab to a ledge. Traverse right into a large scoop and exit this by climbing its steep left wall. Saunter up easy-angled slabs to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “to plough”!

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Kissing the Block

8m VS
24-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixteen metres left of Darlin’ is a small buttress divided by a chimney containing a large flake. Start below a flake crack in the right rib of the chimney.

4c Climb the flake crack to a heather ledge on the right (taking care with an unsuspected, small loose block at the top of the flake). Finish up the wall above and left.

Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn Area > Clogwyn Mawr Derlwyn p 344

Caressez-Vous

6m S
24-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start four metres left of Kissing the Block is a short, excellent wall.

4a Gain a protruding ledge and step left to follow the shallow groove. Starting at the same protruding ledge, Cuddly Crimp (S 4b 24.04.11) goes straight up. Whilst Ruff Luv (VS 4c 24.04.11), traverses right and takes the gritstone-like left arête of the chimney.