New Routes – Gower

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Pobbles Bay East
Date of ascent : 30/08/04
Route Name : Nearly Dropped Me Brolly
Length/grade/stars : E2 5c *
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
On the east wall of the cove three parallel cracks slant up to a large conglomerate overhang.

Pitch descriptions:
12m. Follow the left-hand crack direct to below the overhang, then a steep sequence of moves on undercuts and jams lead rightwards and up to an urgent exit. An interesting climb with good protection.

Additional info:
On-sight, belayed by Lesley Burgess

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area, The Aisle
Date of ascent : 29/08/04
Route Name : Barefoot Acrobat
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c *
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Go through the cave leading to Sump it up.

Pitch descriptions:
12m. Go through the cave leading to Sump it up. A steep hanging rib on the left (west) side of the arch is climbed on jugs to a strenuous exit over the cave entrance. Climbed again 2006, I now feel it warrants VS not HS as originally graded, and well worth a star.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area, The Aisle
Date of ascent : 29/08/04
Route Name : North Edge Direct
Length/grade/stars : E1 5a
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
The arete on the landward (north) end of the aisle.

Pitch descriptions:
12m. The arete on the landward (north) end of the aisle is climbed direct. (The original at VS 4c would appear to climb the right hand side of the arete swinging left at about half height).

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area, The Aisle
Date of ascent : 10/06/06
Route Name : Sixteen Hooves
Length/grade/stars : E1 5b*
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Start right of Zoom Zoom Doris, underneath the arch.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull strenuously through bulges to the roof (thread & good wedged rest). Resume battle exiting leftwards to finish up the easier corner (past another thread).

Additional info:
On-sight

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area
Date of ascent : 13/06/03
Route Name : Wriggler’s Chimney
Length/grade/stars : HS *
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
This route has been inserted into the guide in the wrong place, it is the chimney right of Malm, in the back of the right hand side of the gully.
Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area
Date of ascent : 09/06/06
Route Name : Jiggler’s Chimbley
Length/grade/stars : S
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
This is the squeeze chimney in the back of the left hand side of the gully (left of Balm).

Pitch descriptions:
Not as difficult as Wriggler, exit through a hole to the Catacomb gully area.

Submitted by : Oliver Heyes
Area : The Gower
Crag : Three Cliffs Bay
Date of ascent : 03/09/06
Route name : Maze Bulge
Length/grade/stars : 9 Metres, HVS 5a
Climbers : Oliver Heyes, Kevin
Start location:
Start below the overhanging bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain finger cracks and glass-like footholds to pull over the obvious bulge to flake (One poor cam and one poor nut). Pull right to easier ground and climb the broken biscuits of rock, make sure your partner does not get a rock shower. Move back from the edge to an obvious belay point.

Additional info:
Onsight Lead

10 comments on “New Routes – Gower
  1. avatar Roy Thomas says:

    There is no S.E wales section,can a sub heading be set up?

  2. avatar Tony Scott says:

    Since I have heard from the Pembroke climbers and now yourself that the two areas should be listed separately I have now added an additional sub-heading for South East Wales and Pembrokeshire.

  3. avatar Roy Thomas says:

    fine, but is there a sub section for new routes in mainland SE WALES(I.E not Gower) for places like the Valleys Sandstone,Ogmore,Witches,Dinas etc

  4. avatar Tony Scott says:

    With the exception of the Gower we only provide a New Route facility for areas for which we publish a guidebook. We have an agreement with the publishers of the Gower but currently no other areas. South East Wales guides are published by local clubs some of whom have new route facilities on their web sites. Discussions are taking place and this may change in the future.

  5. avatar Gwyn Evans says:

    Tony – South Wales MC publishes the Gower and South East Wales guidebook, latest volume published in 2002 though Pesda Press published a Gower selected climbs guide called Gower Rock in 2013. Any agreement about publishing Gower new routes would surely cover SE Wales as well. It should be pretty easy to establish that right.

  6. avatar Roy Thomas says:

    My apologies for mis-interpreting web-site heading “new Routes” in information section. Did not realise it should be “new routes in areas for which CC has a guide book”. In which case S.E wales(including Gower)would be of no interest to you. Suggest you remove all of this secion from web page to prevent further confusion.

  7. avatar Roy Thomas says:

    It’s not yet possible to enter new routes for the area GOWER which despite not being in a CC guide is listed in the New Route Archive Page under S.E Wales.
    All attempts fail as Gower is not in the drop down selection box and is not accepted if typed in,(possibly a technical oversight).

  8. avatar Tony Scott says:

    Thanks for bringing this to our notice. The New Routes facility was upgraded a while ago and as the Gower is not one of our guidebook areas it was omitted. I have added the Gower as an area plus the crags currently listed in the existing Gower New Routes page. If the crag/buttress you need is not listed in the drop down menus then you can add it using Submit a New Crag.

  9. avatar Gwyn Evans says:

    With the imminent release of South Wales Rock, published by the CC (in association with South Wales Climbing Wiki) I think we can now add in a section for this area. Perhaps split into the four chapter areas of the new guide?

  10. avatar Tony Scott says:

    Hi Gwyn,

    As soon as I get the guidebook I will set up the area South Wales Rock, crags and buttresses. However we should direct users to the SW wiki?

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