New Routes – Gogarth

Gogarth Bay > Wen Slab Area > Wen Slab Zawn

Paperback Relic

40m E6 6b ☆☆
28-May-2019, Tony Stone, Ben Heason
The initial flake of T.Rex collapsed in an extinction event in 2018. Part of its fossil forms a ramp leading to a steep groove and grubby wall beneath a large roof. The newly hatched roof and wall provide little to accommodate a means of access to the surviving corner of T.Rex. Instead, we took a line with a little new climbing that connects the start of Hardback Thesaurus to the remains of T.Rex. Paperback Relic E6 6b ** A good, stiff, ground-up proposition. About 7a+ climbing but with spaced and hard-earned gear. Follow Hardback Thesaurus through its difficult start to a large resting pocket at ~8m. Arrange good gear and traverse left on thin flake pockets and edges to access some deeper pockets above (decent wire). Move up (passing good wires) to reach a large undercut “tooth” forming a thin right-facing groove. Climb up this (and some holds on the face of the “tooth”) to gain a good undercut at the top of the groove. Use this to move leftward and continue, thinly, into the remaining corner of T.Rex. Finish up T.Rex or (for added interest) Metal Guru (50m). Headpointed on FA.

Gogarth Bay > The Upper Tier > The Upper Tier – Right-Hand Section

UFOrr

45m E2 5b ☆
27-Sep-2020, Tim Neill, Chris Parkin, John Orr, Lee Roberts
Nice, well protected variation start to UFO. From a few metres up Bloody Chimney take the striking diagonal crack to join UFO at its hand crack section. Finish up this. Named after John’s recent big lob. Currently very clean and low in the grade.

Gogarth Bay > Easter Island Gully Area

Maui

25m S 4a
21-Jun-2023, M Turner, L Turner
Starts at the toe of the seaward face of the ‘Rapa Nui’ pinnacle next to the gearing up spot at the top of the Easter Island descent gully. Climb the left arête on good holds to a thread at 8 metres. Continue on the left side of the arête to the top.

Gogarth Bay > Easter Island Gully Area

Rapa Nui

25m VS 4c
21-Jun-2023, M Turner, L Turner
Start at the toe of the buttress by Maui. Climb the rightward slanting crack to a good ledge. Take the crack above keeping right of the arête.

Gogarth Bay > Easter Island Gully Area

The Dapper Rapper

25m E2 5c
21-Jun-2023, M Turner, L Turner
Climbs the centre of the seaward face right of Rapa Nui. Start down from a boulder at the right hand toe of the buttress. Climb on good holds to a small cave at the right of the ledge on Rapa Nui. Make a long reach for a quartz hole, swing up right with difficulty to reach a crack with good runners. Head for the obvious crack up right and finish to the left.

The Main Cliff > Left Hand Section

Wrustler

48m E3 5c,5b 1star
25-Jun-2012, Tim Neill, Donald King, alt lead
Start: Approach as for Hustler, Mestizo etc.

Wrustler E3 5c,5b Steep, with adequate gear and perfect rock throughout. Approach as for Hustler etc 20m 5c From ledge below Gringo, go up the arete to spike runners at 6m as for Wrangler, then traverse out left on good holds to jugs at the base of obvious scoop left of the tanned streak. Press into this awkwardly, then up to gain a good break and good pro. Make a hard move through the bulge to gain the obvious leftward arcing flake, which leads steeply to great holds up and left and so the belay of Gringo etc. This pitch would be a wicked DWS, as would a lot here! 18m 5b Climb the finishing crack of Gringo direct from the belay. Awkward and goey.

Additional info:
Onsight, though previously climbed to good break on pitch 1, then traversed left into Wrangler.

Main Cliff > Right-Hand Section

Main Wall

120m E1 5a/b 1 star
01-Apr-2014, Tim Neill, Callum Muskett
Start: In the mould of Trunk Line and Ordinary Route this big diagonal line links up easier bits of much harder routes but with all the same exposure. Very well protected and solid. Start as for Big Groove.

1. 45m, 5a, Follow Big Groove/Pentathol ad contiue to the stepped dark corner of Sebastapol. Up this then rightwards along huge flakes to the stance above pitch 1 of Citadel and Hunger. In situ thread etc.
2. 40m, 5a/b, Step rightwards to the groove of Mammouth, then with feet in the obvious diagonal crack pull out rightwards to the obvious flakes and juggy ledges on Wall of Fossils. Keep on rightwards on huge holds to finish up the final wide crack of Dinosaur.Belay up and right below crux of Cordon Bleu etc. Take which ever exit down you fancy…top pitch of Dinosaur is technically a little harder but stil E1.

Additional info:
Had climbed all the individual sections before, but linked up on the day on a whim. A very logical and obvious line at an incredibly amenable grade….superb exposure!

Main Cliff > Emulator Area

Absolution

43m E3 5c
03-Sep-2014, Tim Larrard, John Martin
Start as for Stimulator.

Climb the awkward moves and crux of stimulator and follow the crack above. Continue in the crack and groove until a bulge at about 35m. At this point break left pulling over a block and onto a grass ramp. Follow this to the obvious bay and belay as for Simulator. Various options exist from here.

Main Cliff > Emulator Area

Well’Aard Vark

32m E3 5c
13-Apr-2023 Tim Neill and Sam Farnsworth
A nice eliminate with good technical climbing, reasonable protection and perfect rock. Follow the seam between Aardvark and the corner to its right through a couple of small overlaps gaining a right leaning ramp to ledges at the end of the traverse of Imitator. Step up onto the slab above and gain a thin break. Mantle the obvious jug (small perfect nut here just above) and teeter left to gain the thin crack right of Aardvark’s crux. Airily up this to gain the finish jugs of Aardvark.

The Main Cliff > Left Hand Section

Jaborandi Direct

97m E3 5c 2stars
19-Apr-2016, Steve Long, Donald King, Tim Neill
Start as for Jaborandi

1. 34m, 5c, Start as for Jaborandi but carry straight up the fine pocketed groove with good protection. A big cam useful as the crack widens. This leads past the Morphine stance to belay on the flakes of Pentathol.
2. 48m, 5c, Continue as for Jaborandi to the top. Best in one pitch due to poor belays.

Additional info:
There appears to have been some rock fall where the original line tops out with several fresh scars…take care.

The Main Cliff > Left Hand Section

Day Trip

45m E1/2 5b 1 star
05-May-2016, Tim Neill, Will Hardy
Start at the right side of the bay below Heroin at the Arête between Dream Seller and Nightride on its left side.

1. 30m, 5b…Follow the flake crack up the left side of the arête gaining a huge spike on the arête itself. Move steeply up rightward to gain an obvious undercut spike by the crux of Nightride just to your right. Pull out leftwards onto wonderfully sculpted rock to awkwardly gain the Nightride stance.
2. 15m, 4c…move up and left to gain the loose finish of Dream Seller, or more sensibly follow the last pitch of Nightride.

Additional info:
Low in the grade.

The Main Cliff > Right Hand Section

Aficionado

100m E4 6a 2 stars
12-May-2016, Tim Neill, Lee Roberts
Start as for Devotee at the Gogarth Pinnacle.

1. 6a,20m. Traverse out left from the initial flake line of Devotee under the overhang to gain the light coloured left leaning groove on the seaward face of the Pinnacle. Up this to jugs and belay on its summit.
2. 5c,25m. Step straight up as for Devotee to easy ground then head up slightly right wards to a steep juggy groove. Exit via a steep crack on its top right to gain a great ledge and belay of Resolution.
3. 6a,45m. Step up and left as for Resolution but continue up a steep ramp out leftwards. Gain a small ledge above the first crack then take a steep sharp left facing flake to gain a rest just left of the steep blocky flake of Resolution. Make committing moves up its front face to the left to gain and use an obvious undercut spike to gain good holds on top of the flake and take the fine finishing crack of Resolution for its last few metres.

Additional info:
Climbed on sight. The first pitch utilises the E4 variation to Devotee (FA, Mike,Twid, Turner). Top pitch is excellent and holds the crux.

The Main Cliff > Left Hand Section

Ariadne

50m E2 5c 1star
28-Mar-2017, Tim Neill, Ian Cragie
Start: As for Phaedra, left of Heroin Chimney

Start up the tricky groove of Phaedra until that makes a move left into the easy wide crack. Instead, pull up and right into the steep undercut continuation groove which leads over the roof to a long and superb hand crack. This leads up the hairy wall to the last few moves of Horse Above Water. Well protected.

Additional info:
The hand crack was scrubbed on abseil. Clearly visible on page 149 of the Gogarth North guide…between lines 63 and 64.

Easter Island Gully Area

Wonderbra

45m E3 5DD 2star
May-2010, Tim Neill, Yan Boorman
Start as for Phagocyte.

45m 5c Take the striking diagonal crack up rightwards from a few moves up Phagocyte. This leads to the belay ledge shared with Merchant Man, Phago etc. Reverse the quartzy traverse of Phagocyte, then take its wildly steep continuation groove, initially with good gear, then boldly up the rib just right of the final section of Wonderwall. Spectacular and well protected to a bold, but steady finish.

Additional info:
Onsight

Easter Island Gully > Ormuzd Zawn

Pergola

30m, E3 5c, 1 star
28-May-2013, Tim Neill, Lee Roberts
Start at the sharp arête below the 1st Ahriman belay ie the wen side edge of Ormuzd Zawn.

30m, 5c. Follow the sharp arête initially on the left then more directly on great featured rock to the plentiful spikes of the first stance of Ahriman. Then take the steep crack in the prow above. This is between the twin finishing grooves of Ahriman and Gazebo.

Additional info:
On Sight. Quite well protected throughout.

Easter Island Gully

Miss Holyhead

50m E4 5c 1 star
14-May-2016, Tim Neill, Lee Roberts
Start as for This Years Model.

1. 5c,15m. As for This Years Model.
2. 5c,22m. Take the obvious right facing and leaning flake line. This leads boldly and steeply to join This Years Model just before its belay.
3. 5a,20m. As for This Years Model.

Additional Info:
Climbed Onsight. Useful to take many short slings for protection. Essentially a steeper and bolder direct on the parent route.

Holyhead’s Next Top Model

57m E3 5c 1 star
14-May-2016, Lee Roberts, Tim Neill
Start: As for Praetor.

1. 15m,5c. As for This Years Model.
2. 22m,5c. Start up the shallow chimney of Praetor. After 6m gain a striking line of pockets leading out slightly leftwards. These lead strenuously to the belay of This Years Model.
3. 20m, 5a. As for that route.

Additional info:
Climbed after climbing Miss Holyhead and was briefly inspected whilst abseiling from the top of that route. Good pumpy climbing.

Eruption

45m E4 6a 2 stars
14-May-2016, Tim Neill, Lee Roberts
Start: Just left of Wonderwall.

45m, 6a. Gain the hanging crack just left of that of Wonderwall. This is reachy and powerful to start with good but hard to place gear. This leads to a junction with Wonderwall where it steps left. Gain the leftward arching flake which takes you into a very steep left facing groove left of the steep roof of I Wonder Why. This leads strenuously into Volcano which leads to the top.

Additional info:
Climbed on sight. The first section on its own would provide an excellent direct start to Wonderwall or more appropriately, I Wonder Why (and making it more solid at the grade).

Flytrap Area

In the Next Room

50m, E3 4a, 5c, 5b, **
14-Aug-2006, Andy Lole, Ben Anderson
Start: Approach as for Flytrap.

1. 12m 4a Climb the first pitch of Flytrap.Climb diagonally out leftwards through the overhung cave above the belay ledge. Pull into the crack above and traverse left to the ledge above the chock stone (Flytrap belay end of pitch 3). Belay at the left hand end.
2. 25m 5b Traverse left along the folded cracks leading from the bottom of the belay ledge into the hanging groove between Arachnid and Arachnid variation. Climb the groove and belay on the ledge at its top.

Additional info:
Onsight. Andy Lole lead all pitches.

Tsunami Zawn

Blunt Instrument

7m S
09-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 80 metres East of the North Stack buildings a broad heathery ridge, marked by small rock outcrops leads down to serrated ledges forming a blunt promontory ( suggested name of area Blunt Promontory?). Its left-hand side wall (looking in) contains a series of cracks. This first route takes the line of the first crack 2 metres left of the arete.

Climb the crack, somewhat awkwardly where it widens near the top.

Tsunami Zawn

Snaptrack

8m S
09-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Blunt Instrument.

Start 3 metres left of Blunt Instrument and follow a series of flakes diagonally rightwards to finish up a rib.

Tsunami Zawn

Buntline Special

10m S
09-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The right-hand side wall (looking in) is comprised of grooves and walls. Start from high ledges at the left-hand side of the wall below a shallow groove and immediately right of a subsidiary chimney.

Climb the shallow groove and finish to the right.

Tsunami Zawn

To the Point

10m S
12-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 7 metres right of Buntline Special is an inlet whose right-hand corner comprises a steep, crumbling chimney. Cross the inlet (lowmid tide and a calm sea recommended); and belay on ledges 4 metres above the sea and below the crumbling chimney.

4a. Step right and climb an arete and continue up the shallow groove above.

Tsunami Zawn

Outland

6m S
12-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 75 metres left (East) of Tsunami Zawn is another zawn characterized by a large “island”, whose seaward end forms a stack. This route takes a line up the slabby flank of the stack facing Tsunami Zawn; gained by quickly crossing mid-tide ledges. Start below the obvious line of leftward-trending cracks.

4a. Climb the leftward-trending cracks up the slabby flank of the stack. DESCENT:- Go to the seaward end of the stack and descend a series of large brittle holds on the same flank as the route you have just climbed!

Tsunami Zawn

Ozland

7m VS
12-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Outland.

4b. Climb up rightwards to a large sloping ledge on the arete. From where a stiff pull on doubtful holds gains the summit.

Tsunami Zawn

Silva Crack

7m S
04-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The right-hand (Western) descent for Tsunami Zawn is more convoluted than the guidebook indicates; involving the descent of a green wall at the tip of the promontory (5m VD). Start 5 metres right of this descent below a flake crack.

4a. Climb the steep flake crack.

Additional info:
Almost a Deep Water Solo at high tide!

Tsunami Zawn

Greenbeard

10m VD
04-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of the Western descent, 5 metres left of Silva Crack.

A pleasant excursion, especially at high tide. Traverse left for 3 metres to gain an arete, then follow the bearded flake crack on the left to the top.

Tsunami Zawn

Emerald Groove

11m VS
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of To the Point below an attractive slabby groove.

4c. Climb the slabby groove with an exit right near the top.

Tsunami Zawn

Emerald Cracks

8m VD
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 9 metres right of Emerald Groove past a deep grotto is a blunt pinnacle. The foot of which can be reached at low tide by descending quartz ledges on its seaward face. Start at the foot of twin cracks forming the left-bounding corner of the blunt pinnacle.

Climb the twin cracks to the top.

Tsunami Zawn

Asphalt Chimney

20m S
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: To the right (W) of the blunt pinnacle, ledges lead right for 15 metres below an impressive white wall to a chimney groove with a hole at half height. Start here.

Gain the chimney groove and climb it to a serious finish on grassy slabs; with no real belays above. Although a pathtrench 20 metres higher may give some comfort.

Tsunami Zawn

Right Vee

13m S
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 7 metres left of Greenbeard a large chimney-groove is divided by a fin of rock into two V-grooves. Low tide required for scrambling access! Start below the right-hand V-groove.

Climb the right-hand V-groove.

Tsunami Zawn

Cote Sauvage

17m VS
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 8 metres left of Right Vee and 9 metres right of The Chimney is a fine slabby wall marked by a black streak. Start on a large flat ledge below the black streak. Low tide required!

4b. Zig zag slightly up the slabby wall roughly following the line of the black streak; superb, but poorly protected!

Tsunami Zawn

Brick Hole

12m VD
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 75 metres along from where the “Yellow Brick Road” path to Tsunami Zawn starts proper; looking inland is a rounded quartzite buttress, 20 metres above the path. Vegetation encroaches everywhere, but there are a few interesting moves here; and may save the day when the proper crags are lashed by the Westerlies! Towards the right side of the buttress is a small, curious scoop at waist height; start here.

Stand in the scoop and follow the slabs above and right until the heather intrudes; then descend down to the right.

Tsunami Zawn

Yellow Whale

12m S
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Brick Hole at the leftmost slice of diagonal quartz.

4c. Make interesting moves directly up the wall and continue through the straightforward rounded bulge to the top.

Tsunami Zawn

Roadhouse

13m S
07-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres left of Yellow Whale at a shallow corner.

Leave the gorse behind and follow the flake holds up and right to finish up the slabby nose above.

South Stack

Bar Wars

30m E6 6b ☆☆☆
24-Aug-2018, George Smith, Jurgen Dissmann
The monstrous 40ft roof crack at the back of Natalie Zawn just past Penlas Rock is a bit of a one-off. The difficulties are well protected (some big cams), the rock solid. Mid to low tide and a calm sea state are necessary. Access the feature by abseiling as for Natalie. Scramble to the back of the zawn and belay. Lower 3m to a rocky ridge. Scramble up this to reach a vertical chimney in the back of the zawn. Ascend the easy chimney to its top and arrange protection. ‘Back and foot’ out across the feature until a flared offwidth is reached about half way out. Two points of aid will cross this to gain more conventional jams leading to a recess with a lower-off.

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South Stack > Penlas Rock

Lucky Break (Direct start to Serendipity)

40m HVS 5a ☆
23-Aug-2021, Steve Long, Chris Parkin
Start 4m right of Stochastic Groove, at the end of the easy traversing and below a slabby groove. Climb the groove and continue in the same line, passing the remains of an ancient peg, over an overlap and up to an overhang. Step right to emerge on a friendlier rib. Climb the right side of the rib in a nice position until the final pitch of Serendipity is joined. Follow this and belay on the arête at the obvious end of the difficulties, as there is no more gear after this.

Mousetrap Zawn

Linkage

A traverse between the lighthouse steps approach and the bridge.
169m, VS
26-May-1970, N Gough, D Bland (alt leads)
Start from near the foot of Hysteresis. The route is possible at all states of the tide, with the usual caveats!

1. 36m.Traverse diagonally leftwards to a comfortable stance about 50ft above the sea.
2. 35m. Continue horizontally along the obvious line. Descend a short corner, traverse left again, then climb 10ft to an unpleasant stance. (It’s possible to traverse directly all the way).
3. 43m. Move around the corner on doubtful rock & continue more easily to a large stance.
4. 18m Descend the ramp into the small sawn.
5. 21m. Go around the zawn & walk onto a good stance at an iron eye-bolt below an overhanging chimney.
6. 18m. Climb the short steep chimney & follow the diagonal fault up to the bridge.

Additional info:
Dredged this up from notes in an old climbing diary…..don’t remember it being terrifying enough to mention it before!

Smurf Zawn Area > Smurf Zawn

Smurf n’ Turf

55m E2 1 star
02-Oct-2014, M Turner, P Johnson – Alternate leads
Start: A more direct alternative to Smurf. Start just right of Sun Sea and Smurf, directly below the stance at the end of the first pitch of Smurf, at a small cave.

1. 5c 30m Pull straight over the bulge then the next bulge with difficulty to a ledge below a smooth grey wall. Step rightwards to join Smurf and follow this to the stance.
2. 5b 25m Climb straight up as for Smurf and continue directly until forced rightwards to finish up a short groove.

Additional info:
Good rock. Well protected.

Smurf Zawn Area > Blacksmith’s Zawn

South West Passage

30m HVS 5a 1 star
18-Oct-2015, Tim Neill, Donald King
Start: 10 m or so left of communal start of Angel Dust, Compass etc at an obvious steep leaning off width crack.

1. 20m 5a/b Take the steep off width …. Fortunately with good nut protection on its R wall….belay on a good stance below the obvious continuation corner….last section of The Compass
2. 10m 5b Finish up the goey corner of The Compass…excellent protection

Additional info:
On sight

Hollyhead Mountain > Quartz Wall

Sisters Crack

26m. E2 5b/c *
11-Mar-2007, Gary Smith, Mark Hellewell, Fran McNicol
Start: Between Echoes (E3 6a) and Bruvers (HVS 5a) is a prominent crack in a bulge. Start directly below crack in overhanging scoop. Relief (E2 5c??) misses the point by climbing 2m up the crack then diagonally left to the arete, stepping round and avoiding the bulge.

Take the obvious line directly through the crack (bulge). After a boulder start (good friend), pull strenuously through the bulge (5c??) (excellent runner) and climb directly up the headwall above finishing on RH arete to good ledge (Belay near Bruvers).Worth a star compared to Echoes and ‘Relief’!

Additional info:
I think this may have been done; if it hasn’t it should have been. I forwarded info to (New) team doing Gogarth and they have no record. Photo diagram passed to Pete’s Eats Logbook

Holyhead Mountain > Ramp B

Puffin Shuffle

23m. HVS.
Jul-2007, David Durkan
Start: Left side/edge up front of buttress. Bit contrived in line, but varied, interesting moves.

Up to steep wall, with desperate move into slab by groove on left side of buttress (5c), easy up to shallow groove, follow this to giant handhold on right edge, continue up with hands on the right edge and feet on right wall of Candlestick – fall not recommended.

Additional info:
Solo, led with back rope – good runners to just over half height.

Holyhead Mountain > Ramp A

Merlot Slab

28 m VD
04-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Thumbscrew, at a deep corner.

Graunch up the deep corner and continue up the slab before moving right to a quartz block. Step right and climb the rib to a finish up the continuation rib on the left.

Holyhead Mountain > Ramp A

Finbar

6 m S
04-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of Corkscrew.

Seven metres left of Corkscrew is a quartz-bedecked arete which forms a thin blade of rock in its upper section. Gain the arete by a long stride from the right; and continue up the blade to the top.

Holyhead Mountain > Central Slab

Engage Reverse

50m VS
07-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Black Owen.

A high level left to right traverse of the slab; with a technical and serious (especially for the second) first pitch and a delectable finish.

1. 30m 4c. Follow Black Owen to the shallow chimney. Move right for 2 metres and make a tricky descent to a lower ramp; traverse rightwards down along this until the sanctuary of Route 66 is reached. Move up and right to gain a ledge and belay.
2. 20m 4a. Move up and traverse right for 5 metres to reach a small overlap. Step up and follow the obvious footholds into the fine hand crack of D’Elephant. Continue rightwards below another small overlap to finish up the slabby wall on the right.

Holyhead Mountain > The Pillar

Llandarriva

11m S
06-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Hammer.

Move up and follow the ramp leftwards for 3 metres; before climbing the flake crack above and right. Finish up the quartz slab on the left; good juggy climbing!

Holyhead Mountain > The Pillar

Gorse Force

10m S
06-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Surprise.

4a Step off the edge of a flake, and pull up into a niche. Step right and finish up easier ground.

Holyhead Mountain > The Pillar

Maen Tramgwydd

10m S
06-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Gorse Force.

Step off the summit of the flake and climb the wall and slab above.

Additional info:
The name means “Stumbling Block”!

Holyhead Mountain > Sub Slab

Submarina

25m S
06-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Hat.

4a Pull over the small overlap and climb the slab and short left-facing corner to reach the headwall. Step right and finish up the thin cracks.

Additional info:
Classy and delightful! The route would be missed if the new guidebook was to have been believed!

Holyhead Mountain > Sub Slab

Gwefr

10m VS
06-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres down and right of Comfortably Numb, at a striking arete, with quartz chevrons on its right side, protruding from the broken wall.

4c Climb the thin flaky cracks on the left side of the arête to a ledge. Move up, then follow the right side of the arête to the top; fine and rather scary!

Holyhead Mountain > Quartz Wall

Pawnee

22m VS
12-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start up and right of Contestant at the foot of a steep nose.

4c Climb cracks up the steep nose and continue up the slab on the right to reach the slabby corner of Blackfoot. Up this for a couple of metres, then follow the arête on the right to an exit rightwards at the top.

Holyhead Mountain > Central Slab

Loopin

28m S
12-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Lost Hope.

Climb the slab trending rightwards to gain the vegetated corner of Route 66; continue up and right to gain the ledge above the corner. Move up for 3 metres then traverse left to reach the upper section of a wide crack; follow this to a ledge. Finish up the cracks on the right.

Holyhead Mountain > Central Slab

Spanked

30m S
12-Dec-2010, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Slippers.

Takes the edge of Slippers directly. Climb the left edge of the slab and pull through the bulge directly. Continue up the edge to gain the optional belay ledge. Climb the slab above and left; then trend rightwards up the fine slabby wall to finish.

Holyhead Mountain > Central Slab

Guppy’s Fort

32m VS
12-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Spanked.

4b Follow Spanked to the bulge, and move rightwards below it; before climbing the slab up and right to gain the ledge below the hand crack of D’Elephant. Climb the wall 2 metres left of the hand crack to a small overlap. Pass this on its right and move up to reach the base of a shallow heathery crack. Move right and climb the wall to the top; a fine finish!

Holyhead Mountain > Quartz Wall

Penypicell

8m VD
23-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: A few metres below Breaking the Barrier is a spearhead-shaped boulder.

Climb the pleasant right arete of the boulder

Additional info:
Lots of snow; but i won’t bother claiming a winter ascent!

Holyhead Mountain > Quartz Wall

Mum’s the Word

11m HS
23-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Momser.

A slight improvement on Momser! 4b Climb the pink-hued gully wall rightwards via the interesting shallow groove. A stiff pull up a short impending wall gains the finishing cracks.

Holyhead Mountain > Ramp E

Burdock

18m HS
06-Jan-2011, BJ clarke (solo)
Start as for Mrs Murdock.

A more open version of Mrs Murdock. 4b Step right and follow a slab right of the gully for 2 metres; before striding left and climbing the short arete to reach the earthy ledge below the corner. Move up, and use the curving crack to make an awkward move onto the right rib. Climb the wall above and finish as for the right-hand finish of Mrs Murdock.

Holyhead Mountain > Yellow Wall

Leftover

20m S
06-Jan-2011, BJ C-larke (solo)
Start below the left edge of the overgrown slab, 8 metres left of Bloody Fingers; well worthwhile!

4a Climb the left edge of the slab, over a small, square cut roof; before trending rightwards for a pleasant, clean finish.

Holyhead Mountain > Yellow Wall

Architrave

18m HS
06-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 15m up and left of Leftover is a fine, arched rib, on the far side of the descent path; start at its foot.

4a Climb the left side of the rib, with poor protection at half-height; before easier ground leads to the top.

Holyhead Mountain > Yellow Wall

Go-Between

20m HS
15-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Bloody Fingers.

4a Climb the slab leftwards past three tiny overlaps, then continue direct to reach the final shield. A thin, left-slanting crack cuts into the shield and gives a delightful finish.

Holyhead Mountain > Ramp D

Titanic 100

32m VS
15-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Teenage Kicks.

4b Climb the shallow groove in the left side of the gully and a short, steep wall to gain the upper gully (optional belay). Make a bold step right onto the wall and follow the flake cracks to an earthy slope. Cross this rightwards and finish up a broken ridge.

Breakwater Quarry

Softly, Softly

16m VS
04-Mar-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: At the top of the first steep rise of the Landrover track from the car park, is a stepped, broken buttress on the right. The main features are a pinnacle block on the left, a yellow wall just right, and right again a left-slanting crack with a path leading up to it! Start at the foot of the left-slanting crack.

4a. A good line on worsening rock! Climb the left-slanting crack, and at its top, step right onto a glacis. Trend up rightwards taking the stepped corner on loose rock.

Rhoscolyn > Llawder

Daedalus

35m E1 5a **
26-Jul-2005, Trefor Roberts, Rhys Hughes.
Start in the obvious corner right of the Icarus flake start. Essentially a direct version of Icarus. Well worth doing as the climbing is more consistent and exposed than the original line.

1. 22m (5a) Climb up the corner to a ledge on the right of a precarious looking block. Move up left and then right (awkward) to the bottom of an obvious narrow red ramp. Follow this to the stance at the bottom of the final Icarus pitch.
2. 15m (5a) Follow the corner of Icarus pitch 2

Additional info:
Lead on-sight (no pre-inspection or cleaning) Repeated 30th October 2006 (Trefor Roberts, Iwan Roberts)

Rhoscolyn > Llawder

Lacking Testicular Stature

E4 6a *
23-Jun-2007, Dave Brown, Neil Thomas, Max Falkirk
Start: Left hand end of wall. Approach as for The Wild Rover.

34m Climb directly up the arête to the right of Mainlining to finish up the end of El Dorado Bold and sustained on lower section, with some poor rock. (Don’t try to crimp the white stuff). Apologies if already claimed.

Additional info:
no fixed gear.

Rhoscolyn > Porth-Y Garan

Tristan Peers has climbed in this area for years yet there appears to be no mention of the crag north of Rhoscolyn in the Guidebook or other sources. Click link below for details:

Porth-Y-Garan

Rhoscolyn > Fallen Block Zawn

Vipeout

40 metres, E5 6b
15-Jun-2010, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start: Approach as for Viper.

Follow Viper around the Viper’s Head, climb the tricky moves of Viper right and a couple of moves up until protection in the wide crack can be placed. This is level with a hanging dagger to the left. Using a flakeblob on the left that looks like it will break (its actually pretty good). Steep moves left gain sidepulls and gear up high (hard to spot and place). Pull like a train until stood on the front face of the dagger. Climb the headwall between Godzilla and the original Viper finish.

Rhoscolyn > Fallen Block Zawn

The Frumious Bandersnatch

35 m, E7 6c.
14-Aug-2011, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start as for the Jub-Jub Bird.

Start below the fin as for The Jub-JubBird and follow this route up the crack and corner for approximately 5 metres until level with a down pointing fang and slab beneath the second small overhang on the right arête.

Pull right into the small overhang and then right again to get established on the arête and the face to the left of Godzilla. Climb the arête and face direct (Bold) between The Jub-JubBird and Godzilla, until the large flake crack of Godzilla is reached. (Phew) Follow the large flake crack of Godzilla to the jamming niche below the roof. Rest, breath deep, arrange bomb-proof gear and try not to think about where you are about to launch. (The psychological crux) With no high runners in Godzilla, you will regret it; pull left out of the niche onto the seriously overhanging wall by using those, oh-so-worrying, undercut-flakes. Clip a peg on the left. (The peg is good, although it is a small blade and doesn’treally settle the turmoil that is now threatening to explode your mind all over that lovely orange rock!). Undercut with much vigour hoping the holds don’t explode quicker than your biceps and make wild, no … make really wild moves up and left to a good rail in the middle of the face. Place gear in the slightly worrying booming rail before you reach a point of total meltdown and then layaway directly up to stand on the rail. Make a few very hard moves up by using small sloping crimps until a final dramatic throw, slightly left, for a very good hold can be made. If you are still there, and haven’t plunged into outer-space, one final hard move, with peddling feet and screaming mind, will establish you onto a more sane angle. A big breath can now be taken before you jibberwocky your way to the top of the fin.

Roscollin > Llawder

Sundance

30m, E2 4c, 5b
16-Mar-2000, David Sinclair and Geog Halliwell
Start four metres right of Icarus.

1. Start 4m right of Icarus at an obvious groovecorner. Climb the corner for 4m before stepping left into a shallow groove. Move right and follow a sloping gangway before belaying at the foot of the leaning groove as for Icarus pitch1.
2. Move up the corner for 2m then follow flakes descending leftwards before climbing a more substantial flake to a small shoulder under the obvious oh. Move up left under the oh crossing the deep groove before climbing on large holds to the top. The top pitch was veryvery loose hence the grade.

Additional info:
Description appeared in the Rucksack Journal p98,Centenary Journal 2000. We did leave a description in Petes Eats but it disappeared

Rhoscolyn > Fallen Block Zawn

The Tumtum Tree

35m E5 6a ** (could be three but I would say that!)
08-Jul-2014, Nick Bullock, James McHaffie
Start at the cave as for Motombo on the right side of the back wall of Fallen Block Zawn.

A rising right to left journey of the back wall of Fallen Block Zawn. Start as for Motombo climbing from the back of the cave to the sit down rest on the lip of the cave. Stand up and make another move up before reaching left and pulling onto the front face and into the crack of Magellan’s Wall. Follow the crack/fault line in its entirety passing through Dreams and Screams until pulling around the arête on the left of the wall and into the final finishing groove of Centrefold. Finish the groove of Centrefold.

Rhoscolyn > Llawder

Rhos Beef

110m E4 6a *
17-Jul-2014 (P 1 – 4); 21-Jul-2014 (P 5 – 6), P Johnson, M Turner
Start at the top of the far seaward end of the crag at a shallow, flat alcove.

A meaty route, best climbed on a hot, sunny day to achieve the full, roast flavour.

1. 5b 10m. Climb down spikes until a traverse right can be made to an obvious grassy ledge in a groove.
2. 5c 15m. Drop down and make a strenuous hand traverse across Helios to belay on a in the groove of Cocaine/Waxwing.
3. 5a 20m. Move down and follow the horizontal crack to the arete as for Wild Rover. Climb the ramp for a few metres then step across and down to the stance of The Mask of the Red Death.
4. 5b 15m. Down climb Mask until a traverse can be made into the crack of Warpath. Follow this to the overhang then move right to belay on The Sun by a large spike.
5. 6a 25m. Drop down and traverse into the Big Boys groove. Follow this to ledges on the right. Move up to the peg on Bigger Girls. Down climb the flake of Bigger Girls until a traverse can be made into the corner stance of Icarus. (The second can be protected with a back rope on good gear in the flake and a high runner in Icarus).
6. 5b 25m. Climb up Icarus for a few metres, traverse right on good holds dropping down the arete into the groove of Savage Sunbird. Continue rightwards passing through The Cocktail Trip and Adrenaline to a loose finish.

Rhoscolyn > Llawder

Conquistadores

28m E2 5b 1 star
23-Aug-2014, P Johnson, S Long
Start as for El Dorado.

Climb over the overlap as for El Dorado, step left and up to a short corner. Climb this (microcams useful) to reach a ramp. Follow this to a junction with El Dorado just below its hand traverse. Move up and right to a ledge and finish up the hairy crack line.

Rhoscolyn > Porthole Saint

Chuck Connors

13m E1 5b *
29-Oct-2017, Philip Biglands
Start: The grooved arête just left of Coffee Black and Egg White.

Climb the arête. Most people should be able to place a runner before the crux. Finish more easily.

Daft Apex

9m HS
29-Oct-2017, Philip Biglands
Start just left of the base of Mole Catcher.
Climb the slab direct to its apex.

Dolphin

7m M
29-Oct-2017, Philip Biglands
Start: 20m right of Bow Planes, across an inlet, the Rock is more broken. Start 3m along a platform above a pit.
Climb seams up a slab to a rock scar.

Rhoscolyn

Great Groszki

18m E4 6b
10-Nov-2017, Jugen Dissmann, George Smith
Start: From St Gwenfaen’s Church, walk along track to the right of church, through a gate on RHS before last driveway, through two fields, after 3rd gate follow fence left around towards the sea. Through another gate leading left towards grassy bank. Use 3 existing metal stakes for slab routes on the right, however abseil directly left (looking out) from the slab to an obvious large ledge at sea level. Grid reference: SH 259762

Start on large ledge below obvious long roof. Climb up to the overhang and pull onto sloping ledge on RHS of the roof, traverse right from the niche to the obvious crack line. Climb the crack and breaks above. Loose top out.

The Range > Independance

Straight and Narrow

30m HVS 4c
28-Aug-2004, M.Gutteridge, C.Sullivan
Start: Obvious long narrow slab in the zawn behind Grimper. Route described is next to Stormy Monday.

Climbs the centre of the slab right of Stormy Monday. Take the narrow crack to the overlap which is breached at a notch. Climb straight up the centre of the slab above. There is a surprising amount of (poor) gear but a rope for the top is advised.

Additional info:
Safety rope at the top not used on the first ascent.

The Range > Independance

The Seamed Wall

20m VS 4c
28-May-2007, J Martin, M Gutteridge.
Start at the virtually non-tidal ledge at the foot of Prat in the Flat.

Climb the corner for 6m then break out left onto the steep wall. Traverse left to reach the right slanting groove and follow it to the top.

The Range > Independance

Zig-Zag Slab

24m VS 4c
28-May-2007, M Gutteridge, J Martin.
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the Flat.

Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left to finish up the right facing hanging corner.

Additional info:
Belay well back.

The Range > Independance

Who Needs Range West?

25m VS 4c
28-May-2007, J.Martin, M.Gutteridge.
Start: Between Prat in the Flat and Icameosaurus is an obvious cave. Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left of the cave.

Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to finish up the steep quartz wall.

Additional info:
Belay well back.

The Range > Independance

Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs

20m VS 4c
28-May-2007, M.Gutteridge, J.Martin.
Start: Between Prat in the Flat and Icameosaurus is an obvious cave. Start at the entrance of the cave just above the barnacle line.

Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow this to the top.

Additional info:
Belay well back.

The Range > Wensleydale Walls. (new crag)

Welsh Rarebit

S 20m
24-Jun-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start: Wensleydale Walls – A collection of walls up to 20m high situated 30m south of Emmenthal Zawn. A lovely spot with surprisingly good rock which can be accessed at all states of the tide. Access is via an obvious slanting slab chimney (an easy Diff) on the right side of the walls, looking out. There is a scramble escape up an unpleasant slope to the right looking in. Belay abseil stake in situ.

Climbs the buttress just right of the descent chimney. Pleasant. Gain the slabby ramp leading left to the arête. Climb the crack around the arête, stepping right to finish up another crack.

The Range > Wensleydale Walls

Nice Bit Of Wensleydale Gromit

20m HVS star
24-Jun-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start: Round to the right of Welsh Rarebit there is an overhanging wall with a cave in the corner. Right of this is a distinctive fat crack.

5a. Climb the fat crack to a ledge finishing up the groove above.

The Range > Wensleydale Walls

Caws Trap

20m E2 star
24-Jun-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start just right of Nice Bit of Wensleydale, Gromit.

5b. Climb the distorted vertical strata in the corner to the ledge on the previous route. Steep. Finish rightwards up the pleasant ramp.

Additional info:
Caws, rhymes with mouse, welsh for cheese. Get it?

The Range > Stormy Monday Zawn

Captain Haddock

30m HVS star
26-Jul-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start: The V shaped slab right of Stormy Monday, etc has 3 vertical, parallel, thin cracks. There is a convenient ledge above high tide. Abseil rope best left in place to protect the finishes. There is a new stake directly above the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4c. Climbs the central crack, initially on its right.

Additional info:
Small cams

The Range > Stormy Monday Zawn

Prawn Crackers

30m Severe
26-Jul-2013, P Johnson (solo)
Start: As for Captain Haddock.

Climbs the thin crack just right of Captain Haddock

The Range > Wensleydale Walls

Celtic Promise

18m, HVS, 1 star
30-Jul-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start: Climbs the Welsh Rarebit buttress via a vague slanting diagonal crack line to the left of the obvious chimney.

5b. Start at the bottom left of the buttress and climb the crack line over bulges, crossing Welsh Rarebit en route.

The Range > Wensleydale Walls

Perl Las

20m, E3, 2 stars
30-Jul-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start: Climbs the groove immediately right of Caws Trap.

5c. Step across the trench and climb up to the right. Arrange gear and swing left into the groove. Climb this to finish just right of Caws Trap. Steep but well protected.

The Range > Wensleydale Walls

Manchego

20m, E2, 1 star
01-Aug-2013, P Johnson, E Roberts
Start as for Perl Las.

5b. Follow Perl Las for the first few metres. Continue straight up to a sloping ledge on the right. Surmount the bulge above,right of the groove. Swing left along the big flake to finish steeply just right of the arete. Exciting.

The Range > Dichotomous Wall

Dia-Vient

HVS 5a 40m
02-Nov-2015, Ben Silvestre, Dave Brown
Start: Gain the left hand side of the base of Dichotomous Wall via an abseil down the ridge to the (climbers) left to ledges. Boulder hop across the zawn at low tide to gain ledges below the large overhangs. The large overhangs bounding the left hand side of Dichotomous Wall have a possible vague weakness in their centre with a groove leading up to them. Start on a ledge here.

Climb up the groove to gain good runners and the slab running up rightwards beneath the overhang. Follow the slab upwards to gain good holds and gear on Dichotomous with relief. Continue in a diagonal manner to gain the cliff top by easier well protected climbing belaying if necessary.

The Range > Dichotomous Wall

Dichotomous Flange

E2 5b *
02-Nov-2015, Dave Brown, Ben Silvestre
Start: The prow taken by Dichotomous, Dia-Version & Dia-Wrecked is bounded to its right by a deep flared chimney. Start on sea level ledges to the right of this.

Climb the chimney with a brief excursion onto the slab to the right to gain the ledge above. Finish easily.

The Range > Dichotomous Wall

The Prow

VS 30m
02-Nov-2015, Dave Brown, Ben Silvestre
Start: In the centre of Dichotomous Wall there is an prow of easier angled rock bounded by the chimney of the Dichotomous Flange to its left and the cave breached by Ego Warriors to its right. Start on good ledges at the base of this prow.

Follow the prow/arête with a slight move right and then back left to gain the ledge. Finish up the Dichotomous Flange.

The Range > Dichotomous Wall

The Groove

VS 30m
02-Nov-2015, Ben Silvestre, Dave Brown
Start as per The Prow.

Follow the obvious line of weakness up rightwards to belay at the end of the first pitch of Ego Warriors. Finish up this.

The Range > Dichotomous Wall

Ego Refugees

E2 5b
02-Nov-2015, Ben Silvestre, Dave Brown
Start on ledges just to the left of Ego Warriors.

Climb a steep wall on bug worrying jugs to a capping overhang. Scuttle leftwards below this on a hanging wall to gain the easy groove of The Groove. Finish up this.

The Range

Thrift Ridge

30m E3 5b
24-Jul-2017, George Smith, Jurgen Dissmann
This route is on the west facing wall of a deep zawn 100m west of Bottle Zawn (appendix of gogarth south p346) reached from the middle car park gr223799 Climb on good solid rock up the arete which de-generates nicely (!) in the upper reaches finishing rightwards in a fine position.

Mynydd Bodafon

Comment Submitted by Dave Peers

Various -see below

Length/grade/stars : 20-25m – grades see below
1970 – repeated Summer 2011, Dave Peers, Hugh Walton
Start: See CC Guide. Note church mentioned in guide is a private house. Roadside crag, easy access and walk off. park below crag.

Been meaning for some long time to send an update. The guide description ‘ shame about the climbing, dirty and rather overgrown’ just gets updated with each edition and was copied word for word in the Ground Up guide. Guess no one ever visits to check. The crag though small is relatively clean and compact -see photo – a lovely spot for a summers evening for anyone on holiday in the area. So worth more accurate comments in next edition. First did the routes in early 70’s but repeated those on photo last summer. From L to R :- Yan (D), Tan (S),Tethera (4b), Pethera (4c), Pimp (4a), Sethera (4a). The Image below shows the routes.

Sunset Wall

Porpoise Delight

30m E2 5b 2 star
04-Sep-2014, Tim Larrad, John Martin
Start up Le Cadeau de Vacances.

Climb the awkward section with urgency into the flakey chimney step down and left to footholds at its base. Traverse left on the lip of the cave-like zawn using white quartz footholds and handholds on top of a block. Now trend up left towards a bulge on the arête and surmount this. Place gear and make moves around the arête to gain the slab. Committing slab moves,using the arête and a positive hold, allow progress via an eventual hidden jug to the top.

Additional info:
A little cleaning of sea grass on the arête was needed.

Sunset Wall

Shark Tooth Chimney

22m 5b 1 star
04-Sep-2014, John Martin
Start as for Le Cadeau de Vacances.

Start up Le Cadeau de Vacances and continue up the flakey chimney to the overhang. Move left and climb the bulge on good holds. Once on top of the bulge climb straight up the headwall to reach positive toping out holds.

Additional info:
On site.

Sunset Wall

Porpoise Delight

30m E2 5b 2 stars
04-Sep-2014, Tim Larrad, John Martin
Start up Le Cadeau de Vacances.

Climb the awkward section with urgency into the flakey chimney step down and left to footholds at its base. Traverse left on the lip of the cave-like zawn using white quartz footholds and handholds on top of a block. Now trend up left towards a bulge on the arête and surmount this. Place gear and make moves around the arête to gain the slab. Committing slab moves,using the arête and a positive hold, allow progress via an eventual hidden jug to the top.

Additional info:
A little cleaning of sea grass on the arête was needed.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

Aisle Crack

7m S
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The small cliffs at the north side of the bay now offer a few sun-drenched routes. Beware the snappy rock! Reach the far headland by a pleasant 15 minutes walk along the coast path. Descend easy rocks on the left (looking out) side of the headland to reach sea level. The first routes are 25 metres right of the headland (looking in, SE) on a rounded buttress which curves around to produce a steep sidewall above a narrow iinlet. Start at the entrance to the inlet on its left wall.

4a Move right along a flake for a metre, then gain and climb the steep crack above.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

What Ails Thee?

10m HS
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Aisle Crack.

4a Move right along the flake for 2 metres; before climbing the curved crack above. Finish up the rib on the right.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

The Chancel

6m S
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: These next routes lie in the vicinity of a pretty zawn some 60 metres right (looking in) of the headland. Access is by descending the left-hand ridge (looking out), past a broad-based pinnacle (The Chancel). Start at the base of the pinnacle at the exact entrance to the sawn.

4b Climb the left side of the arete of the pinnacle.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

Transcept

7m S
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for The Chancel.

4b Move up, step left and follow the slanting groove to the top.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

Chance Groove

12m VS
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of The Chancel on a mid-tide ledge just short of the groove. The ledge is gained by down-climbing to the right of the pinnacle (looking in)!

4c Move left and gain the groove with difficulty. Continue more easily up the groove to a serious and thought-provoking finish. The crinkly wall just right is gained awkwardly from the mid-tide ledge and followed to the top Slim Chance (9m S 4b 2010).

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

Chancel Crack

8m VS
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 14 metres right of The Chancel, past a small tower is a smooth bulging wall with a niche on its left. Start here.

4b Gain the niche, step left then right to finish up the thin crack.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

Fine Chance

7m VS
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Chancel Crack.

5a Pull up the bulging wall and continue to the top.

Porth Swtan (Church Bay)

Chancellary

12m HVS
15-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Fine Chance at a brown wall.

5a Climb the deceptively-difficult wall to an overhang. Step right and follow the right-slanting crack to a grassy finish; and serious scrambling above!

Craig Badrig Area > Boot Zawn

Wylfarine

9m VS
10-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of the descent corner as for Idris Mad.

4b. Make a tricky traverse left just above the barnacle line to reach a curving groove. Up this to a rounded roof, pass this on its right to easier ground and the top. Starting 5 metres to the left, at the left edge of a smooth slab; and best gained by a rightwards traverse from the promontory is Wylfa View (7m VD). It follows a series of slabby grooves with pleasant climbing.

Craig Badrig Area > Boot Zawn

Spliff

15m S
10-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres RIGHT of the descent corner.

4a. Climb the wide dark groove and continue up the left side of the arete above to gain the finishing terrace.

Craig Badrig Area > Boot Zawn

Gridba

Length/grade/stars : 14m S
10-Feb-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Spliff.

4a. Climb the quartz-flecked wall to a ledge below a square overhang. Step left and follow a ramp up rightwards to gain the finishing terrace.

Craig Badrig Area > Sneaky Seal Wall

Convo Flutes

10m VD
20-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 15 metres left of Sneaky Seal the crag ends at a ridge, which at its base forms a small buttress. Scramble down the ridge to reach a large ledge atop the buttress. A climb down the groove and slabs on the right (looking out) gains sea level. The routes climbed so far start from a tiny inlet on the right flank of the buttress; gained by a rightwards traverse from the foot of the descent (very tricky at high tiderough seas!). Start as for The Rut.

Climb leftwards up the wall and follow the arete to the top.

Craig Badrig Area > Sneaky Seal Wall

The Rut

10m S
20-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the tiny inlet on the right flank of the buttress.

Climb up the back of the inlet and pull through the flaky bulges to gain the large ledge.

Craig Badrig Area > Sneaky Seal Wall

Pebble Moussaka

11m S
20-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for The Rut.

Move up and climb the wall rightwards to reach a ledge on the right arête of the inlet. Continue up the arete to the top.

Craig Badrig Area

Mere Craft

10m VS
20-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The beautiful headland West of Llanbadrig Church (O S Ref 373 946); consists, in fact, of three mini-headlands. The right-hand one is obvious by its overhanging block; and the central one by its easy-angled slabs. The routes are located on the left-hand one identified by a small, offshore, flat-topped block island. From the headland scramble down slabs in the general direction of the block island to gain a sheltered ledge behind a seaward pinnacle. Start at the left-hand end of the sheltered ledge.

A great little adventure, especially at high tide! 4c Step off the end of the sheltered ledge and make a hunched traverse left under a roof to gain a recess. Step left, move up and then leftwards to gain the summit of a pinnacle; from where a pull across reaches the headland. The seaward pinnacle, protecting the sheltered ledge is too short for proper routes. However, Its outer right-hand arete gives a pleasant scramble Pinn Number (Mod 20.02.11); whilst the impending wall 4 metres left is Surf (HS 4a 20.02.11).

Craig Badrig Area

Mourning Black

15m D
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Ten metres West of the graveyard wall at Llanbadrig Church is an ancient quarry. A further scramble of 35 metres West reaches a ledge system at the top of a dark cliff, comprising slabby ribs and grooves. Access is by climbing down straightforward rocks on the right-hand side (looking out) of the cliff; to gain a rock pool in a trench. Low tide only! Beware lethally greasy conditions when conditions are damp!

Stride across the rock pool just right of its widest part and climb the wall. Trend leftwards and finish up a groove.

Craig Badrig Area

Funebre

15m D
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Mourning Black, just where the rock pool narrows; below a shallow rounded groove in the lower wall.

Climb the groove and rib above to finish up a small groove. The left-slanting basalt dyke defining Funebre on its right is Cortege (Mod 24.02.11).

Craig Badrig Area

Trauer

12m S
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of the basalt dyke of Cortege.

Pull up onto the wall on the right and continue up and rightwards to finish up a small corner.

Craig Badrig Area

Lich

11m VD
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Trauer.

Climb the obvious corner.

Craig Badrig Area

Feierlich

11m S
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Lich below a steep crack.

4a Climb the steep crack and continue up the wall above, trending leftwards up the flakes to finish. The arête on the right gives the pleasant Rite (VD 24,02,11).

Additional info:
Feierlich is a German musical term meaning “solemn”!

Craig Badrig Area

Weep

11m S
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Feierlich.

Climb the usually greasy corner; keeping left over a slight bulge near the top.

Craig Badrig Area

Subvenite

15m VD
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Weep.

Gain the ramp, and follow the crack in the slab above; before trending right to finish.

Additional info:
Subvenite is a prayer for the recently deceased!

Craig Badrig Area

Cemetary Ridge

22m VD
24-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Subvenite, below the right-bounding ridge of the cliff.

Follow the ridge, past a steepening, and scramble up the ridge above in a fine position.

Additional info:
The ledges below Lich are 4 metres higher than the sea-level ledges. Thus by down-climbing Cortege the climbing time may be extended by a couple of hours! The right sidewall of Cemetary Ridge looks awesome (mid E grade maybe?)….Go for it!

Craig Badrig Area

Sors Slab

20m VD
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Cemetary Ridge, on the far side of the sawn.

Climb leftwards up the dank slabs, then finish more directly up a groove with a thin crack in its back.

Additional info:
Climbed in very traditional style; that is, socks were worn over rock shoes!

Craig Badrig Area

Shrouded Groove

15m S
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres right of Sors Slab below a black groove cutting up through a buttress.

Climb the groove, exiting rightwards near the top. Take care with several blocks. The golden wall immediately left gives Solenelle (10m VD 28.03.11).

Craig Badrig Area

Remanter

6m VD
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Ten metres right of Shrouded Groove an attractive grey wall rises from a channel. Start below its left side.

Pull over a small overlap and finish up a ramp and flakes.

Craig Badrig Area

Momento Mori

9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Remanter below a rightwards-rising crack.

4a Climb the rising crack; short, but atmospheric!

Craig Badrig Area

Lamentoso

7m D
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: On the right-hand of the mini-headlands West of Llanbadrig Church, a scramble below the right side of the overhanging block gains the top of a ramp leading down to the sea. The ramp is overlooked by a bulging wall on its left. Start at the top of the ramp.

Traverse the flakes rightwards onto the left end of the bulging wall and pull up to finish.

Craig Badrig Area

Sad Song

6m S
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down the ramp right of Lamentoso, below the first break in the bulging wall.

Pull up, and follow a scoop up and leftwards to reach the finishing moves of Lamentoso.

Craig Badrig Area

Tolling Bell

20m D
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres below and right of Sad Song, at the bottom of the ramp on a low-tide ledge under a tower-like buttress.

Climb the ledgy wall leftwards, then follow the right-trending ramp which forms the left flank of the tower.

Craig Badrig Area

Lacrimosa

13m S
28-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres right of Tolling Bell, at the foot of a dark, curving groove; bordering the tower to its right.

Climb the groove, with more interest than expected!

Additional info:
The approach ramp is lethally slippery when damp; as my sore leg still testifies, after 5 weeks!

Craig Badrig Area

Crucis

6m VS
29-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Sad Song.

4b Climb Sad Song for 2 metres, then stretch right. Use the cracked jug on the right for the right foot, and then finish on good holds.

Craig Badrig Area

Memoria

7m HS
29-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres below and right of Sad Song at the next break.

4a Climb the break rightwards to gain a small ledge. Step back left and finish up the short steep crack.

Craig Badrig Area

Catacomb

8m S
29-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Memoria at a cleft.

Swing into the cleft and move up onto the ledge. Step left immediately and finish up the arête.

Craig Badrig Area

Vault Fault

21m S
29-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The channel below Momento Mori is blocked at its landward end by a huge boulder. Above, the channel continues as a curving fault. Start at the foot of the curving fault, behind the boulder.

After a steep start, the fault eases to a scramble.

Craig Badrig Area

Grave Groove

20m S
29-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres above and right of Vault Fault; where a line of black slabs lead leftwards to a bulge cut by a crack.

Traverse the black slabs leftwards and pull through the bulge at the crack. Finish up the groove above.

Craig Badrig Area

Tombstone

Length/grade/stars : 15m S
29-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Thirty metres right (looking in) of Momento Mori, and across the channel; is a brown and yellow buttress rising above black ledges. Best gained by descending the grey ramp to its left (looking in). Start on the black ledges below the left side of the buttress.

Climb the left-slanting scoop, then cross a steep wall rightwards to reach a gangway. Follow this to the right, then finish leftwards up a corner.

Craig Badrig Area

Morbidezza

7m VS
12-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Remanter.

4c Climb the wrinkled wall up and rightwards to reach a shallow groove. A tricky move up this gains the top.

Craig Badrig Area

Boot Hill

14m S
12-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Tombstone.

Gain a shelf and pull up the steep wall slightly on the left Finish up the white tower above and right.

Craig Badrig Area

Melismata

10m VS
12-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Boot Hill in a streaked runnel.

4b Teeter rightwards across a smooth slab; step right and climb the steep wall to a break. Step right again and finish up the flakes.

Craig Badrig Area

Crypt

10m VD
12-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres below and right of Melismata at the base of a chimney cleft at high tide level.

Climb the curving groove and chimney cleft above. Good holds on its right rib helping to maintain a degree of elegance!

Craig Badrig Area

Mausoleum

9m S
12-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Crypt.

Climb the shallow groove in the dark slab, and pull through the slight bulge to reach easier ground. Dry conditions desirable!

Craig Badrig Area

Missa

8m VD
12-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Mausoleum.

Climb the dark slab via two blunt noses and a steeper headwall. Again, dry conditions desirable!

Craig Badrig Area

Wyld Foul

6m S
11-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Wylfwl, just left of the arête.

Climb the pleasant sidewall.

Craig Badrig Area

Wylfwl

9m VS
11-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Wylmer.

4c Climb up to a small niche, then hand traverse horizontally left and pull up into a recess; finish up the short groove just left.

Craig Badrig Area

Wylmer

10m HS
11-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: To the left of Mere Craft, a midlow tide ledge widens after 18 metres to form a prominent yellow-flecked platform at high tide level. Above and right are two impending walls ( the right-hand one at 45 degrees and unclimbed!), with a groove between them. Start just left of the base of this groove.

4a Gain the groove steeply, and where it lies back, traverse the wall on the right and finish up the rib.

Craig Badrig Area

Coco Crack

9m VD
30-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Sixty metres left (East) of the wooden gate below the graveyard wall at Llanbadrig Church; the wall changes to a fence. From here, descend the grass slope and rocks to arrive at the top of a hidden grey wall. The wall forms the landward side of a narrow channel formed by an “attached” rock island. The routes start from a small recess at high tide level on the left (looking out) side of the wall. This is gained by a short abseil, or by down-climbing (VD!).

Move left from the recess and follow a short ramp up leftwards to reach a flake crack; which is followed to the top.

Craig Badrig Area

Channel Lure

15m VS
30-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Chanel Groove.

4b Follow Chanel groove to below the slight bulge; then step a further 1 metre left, before launching up the steep black wall to a pleasnt finish up the flaky grey wall.

Additional info:
Short routes, but bags of atmosphere!

Craig Badrig Area

Non Molestar

10m S
30-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Molesting Mollusc.

Climb the slabby corner to the triangular roof, and pull around the left side of this to finish up the juggy cracks.

Craig Badrig Area

Chanel Groove

11m HS
30-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Coco Crack.

4a Follow Coco Crack to the flake crack; then step 1 metre left and pull through a slight bulge to gain the groove, and finish up this.

Fedw Fawr Area

Omega 3 Corner

15m S
11-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Three hundred metres left (West) of the loose, terraced cliffs draping the west flank of Trwyn Dinmor, a small promontory juts out into the sea (O S Ref 625 816). The promontory has an East-facing wall with several strong, steep lines (lowmid tide), and may be accessed by descending the grassy ridge opposite. The right-hand (seaward) section of the wall is an attractive grey wall riven by cracks; the left end of the grey wall is delineated by a dark corner. Start below this dark corner.

Climb the corner, and at the brittle top section, traverse left and finish up ledges.

Fedw Fawr Area

Pasted Fish

12m VD
11-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres around and left of Omega 3 Corner below a chimney with a ledge at 5 metres.

Climb the chimney and finish up the knobbly wall.

Additional info:
Access by car is tricky! Either attempt to park along the narrow lane leading to Pentir, and go through the gate, then strike across the field (10 mins!). Or pay the £2-50 toll and park at Trwyn Du (good cafe!). Follow the coastal path NW for just over 1 km to reach the same field (35 mins to promontory!).

Fedw Fawr Area

Bo

7m VD
14-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: On the other (West) side of the promontory containing Omega 3 Corner, is a smaller, but still steep wall rising from higher tidal ledges. Easily gained by descending a grassy gully in the West corner of the promontory, where it connects with the mainland. Heading seawards for 30 metres below a loose cliff from the grassy gully; a hollow strip roof above a smooth wall is seen. After a further 10 metres this section of cliff ends at a leaning corner. Start 2 metres left of this corner.

After a steep start, follow the right-trending ” slabby ” groove to the top and a thread belay. The wide groove 1 metre left gives Maris (6m D 14.05.11).

Fedw Fawr Area

Fun Hell

9m S
14-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Ten metres left of Bo is a funnel-shaped groove rising above a wide, gently-sloping ledge.

Climb it.

Fedw Fawr Area

Scarecase

9m VD
14-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres left of Fun Hell below a shelf at 2 metres.

Gain the left end of the shelf, and follow the staircase of filigree holds up and leftwards to the top.

Fedw Fawr Area

Exit Last

10m VD
14-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres left of Scarecase at a wide crack before the last buttress of the wall.

Climb the wide crack and finish up the wall on the left; keeping near the arête.

Fedw Fawr Area

To Beaumaris and Beyond

10m VS
20-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twelve metres right of Omega 3 Corner and around the impending arête, a short corner leads to a wide ledge system stretching to the very tip of the promontory. Start at the TOP of this short corner.

4c Descend the corner for 1 metre then traverse out left to reach the impending arête. Follow this to a ledge and easier ground above. Superb, but feeling bold, despite the large holds!

Additional info:
Climbed as a Deep Water Solo at two-thirds high tide!

Fedw Fawr Area

Tip Flake

8m S
20-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Following the wide ledge system (at the start of To Beaumaris and Beyond), seawards for 20 metres gains a large area of dark, sloping ledges. Best gained by scrambling down the promontory. Eight metres right (looking in) of the dark, sloping ledges, an attractive grey wall rises from a black ledge at two and a half metres. Start below the left end of the black ledge.

Climb the edge of the wall to gain the left end of the black ledge. Step left, then follow glorious flake holds rightwards before pulling up to finish just left of Tipolino.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tipolino

8m HS
20-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Tip Flake.

4b Climb up the wall to the black ledge. Follow the awkward left-slanting crack in the grey wall above.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tip Groove

8m S
20-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Tipolino.

Follow a corner to the right end of the black ledge, and continue up the left-facing, right-angled groove above.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tipple

7m S
20-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Tip Groove at a recess.

Climb the tricky crack up the back wall of the recess.

Fedw Fawr Area

Ship Hams

13m VD
26-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start 3 metres left of Pasted Fish at a curving corner.

Climb the curving corner. Take care with the belays at the top.

Fedw Fawr Area

Prickly Pear

13m VS
26-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start: Three metres right of Omega 3 Corner is a dark niche; start below this feature.

4a Climb up into the niche; step left and follow the cracks above. Exciting climbing on good, but snappy holds up the impending wall.

Fedw Fawr Area

Snapper

14m VS
26-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start as for Prickly Pear.

4b Climb up into the niche; step right and follow the thin crack up the impending wall.

Fedw Fawr Area

Double Tip Trip

11m VD
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just right of the impending arete of To Beaumaris and Beyond. Low tide only!

Climb the short corner (DOWN which To Beaumaris and Beyond starts) to the wide ledge system. Finish up the dark upper groove.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tacomseh

7m VD
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of the upper groove of Double Tip Trip where a thin crack cuts through a black wall.

Climb the pleasant thin crack. The steep wall immediately right gives a nice problem Pipped (7m S 4b 10.07.11). Whilst the left-slanting corner crack just right again is Tipstaff ( 8m D 10.07.11). The short back wall of the wide ledge has a horizontal break at 2 metres. Hand traversing the break from left to right gives a good workout; Tip Trainer (10m S 4c 10.07.11).

Fedw Fawr Area

Chicken Tips

8m HS
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Tip Flake.

4a Climb the outer face of a pedestal, then finish rightwards up the scoop on diminishing chickenheads.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tip Off

8m HS
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Tipple.

4b Climb the corner crack and finish steeply.

Fedw Fawr Area

Top Tip

7m VD
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Tip Off where converging crack form a corner.

Climb the corner.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tip Top

8m S
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Top Tip.

Climb rightwards to a ledge below an arête (refuge belay if the sea threatens!). Finish up the fine, but short arête.

Fedw Fawr Area

Coal Tip

6m S
10-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres further right along the high tide ledge from the arête of Tip Top.

Climb up rightwards across the pleasant dark wall to good finishing holds at the skyline.

Fedw Fawr Area

Tip the Wink

6m S
20-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Coal Tip, below a rightwards-facing corner.

4a Climb the corner to a tricky finish. The rather painful left-hand of the twin cracks 1 metre right is Sore Tip (7m VD 20.07.11).

Fedw Fawr Area

Tippicanoe

8m HS
20-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Tip the Wink.

4a Traverse out rightwards and climb the fine and crimpy left side of the arête.

Additional info:
Climbed as a Deep Water Solo (S2); but choose a high tide!

Fedw Fawr Area

Tip Ex

7m VD
20-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Four metres right of Tippicanoe the front wall of the buttress contains a square-cut groove. At high tide descend the steep juggy arête to its left (looking out) to a tiny platform.

Traverse left and climb the squre-cut groove. The descent, in ascent, gives Descent Arête (5m VD 20.07.11).

Additional info:
Both routes climbed as Deep Water Solos (both S1)!

Fedw Fawr Area

Tippicanoe Two

8m VS
25-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Tip Ex on the tiny platform at the foot of Descent Arête.

4c Move up rightwards into the corner. Continue to the roof, then pull rightwards onto the wall. Regain balance awkwardly, then reach for the top.

Additional info:
Climbed as a Deep Water Solo (S1)!

Fedw Fawr Area

Tamarisk

8m S
25-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Nine metres right of Tippicanoe Two on the opposite side of the narrow channel is a dark rib. Start atop the choke on the inland side of the channel.

Descend the ramp and traverse out right to gain and climb the dark rib direct. At the base of the descent ramp, when the tide has receded a little, a hole leads into a grotto, above which is a circular chimney; Tubular (6m D 25.10.11).

Additional info:
Tamarisk climbed as a DWS (S2); Try and land in the channel and not on the reefledge on the right!

Fedw Fawr Area

Calypso

12m S
25-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Omega 3 Corner, below a right-angled corner.

Climb the corner, and where it closes, make a dainty traverse rightwards to the rib (suspect horizontal block at the start of traverse!). Pull up the left side of the rib to gain the finishing ledges of Omega 3 Corner.

Penmon Area

Flanking Ramp

17m VD
25-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The Trevallen-like, square-cut sea-cliff below the fish processing plant (O S Ref 632 817); looks the most promising cliff in the area! It can be reached from the car park and cafe (toll) at Trwyn Du (25 mins); or by risking taking your car down the track to the huge parking area just outside the plant’s gates. Start below a right-slanting corner high up on the sidewall at the right-hand end of the cliff, overlooking the boulder field descent. There is a dinky cairn and two horizontal boreholes!

Scramble up corners and ledges to gain the right-slanting corner, and climb its right side.

Additional info:
Inlets and zawns restrict access to the left-hand (East) side of the cliff; but a boulder field at the far right end gives access. The flat cliff top gives straightforward walking; except for an exposed step around the end of the fence, care required! Lots of potential–take a look!

Minor Crags > Trearddur Bay

Do coeliacs dream of gluten free pizza

8m HS 4c
03-May-2022, Robert Middleton, Helen Fairclough, Mark Holdcroft

On the North end of Porth Y Garen main face, 3m right of Rostams awkward bulge (HVD). Start at a jutting nose in the steep overhang. Reach to a jug on the lip and fiddle good but blind gear in the break above. Step across the cap (cut loose?) and surmount the juggy overhang with urgency. Continue up the easier wall above.

Gogarth Bay

Dodgyknees

50m E1 5b
08-May-2022, P Johnson, C Shepherd

A variation on Diogenes. Stiff. Step down from the embedded flake for 2 metres. Take a rising traverse left then directly up to down pointing flake. Move left with trepidation to the square recess on Diogenes pitch 2. Climb directly through this and follow Diogenes to the top.