| The West Side of Nant Ffrancon |
The West Side of Nant Ffrancon > Carnedd y Filiast
Crystalline Crack
35m, HVD, 0
12-May-2008, Simon Gwyn Roberts, Alwyn Williams
Start: Takes the obvious left-most crack on Tree Slab (between Friction and White Lightning – routes detailed in the 1993 Carneddau guidebook). Tree Slab is the small, steep slab to the right of the Filiast Slabs (left of Red Slab).
Climb straight up to the quartz-lined crack on the left of the slab. Climb the crack past two trees to
a ledge and possible belay. Finish direct up the juggy arete. |
| Cwm Llafar |
| Pen Yr Ole Wen |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Hallt
27m S
30-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The East ridge of the mountain, enclosing Cwm Lloer, hosts a collection of small crags on its southern flank. In the abscence of a name for these rocks on the maps; i suggest Creigiau’r Ole Wen (O S Ref 664 615). The crags receive the sun all day, but have a flaky nature! Approach up the Cwm Lloer path from the climbing hut at Glan Dena. At the finely-constucted stone wall before the Cwm itself, cross the stile and follow the wall leftwards below the broken crags. After 200 metres things improve and a small crag edges near the wall. Above this, a white arete, with dark slabs on its left is an obvious feature (45 minutes). Start at the foot of the white arete, gained from the left.
Climb a short wall, then follow cracks up the edge of the arête. Continue up, finishing up a thin crack slightly to the left. Descent;- Walk up left (looking in) for 40 metres to the top of a deep gully. Do not descend this! Instead, continue along along a terrace for a further 40 metres to another gully marked by a fine,steep wall in its centre. Go over the top of this wall and descend the shallow gully. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Lasoer
30m VS
30-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 60 metres left of Hallt and 20 metres left of the deep gully, below an easy-angled slab leading to a short, steep wall; cairn!
4c Climb the slab and the right edge of the steep wall to a ledge. Follow the delicate groove immediately left of the main rib above, and the short arete above. Climb slabs and finish up the right-hand groove in the headwall.
Additional info:
The name means “chilly”! Also “Hallt” means “severe”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Hebog
12m VS
30-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres above and left of Iasoer at the foot of the right edge of the steep wall in the centre of the descent gully.
4c After tricky starting moves the right edge yields pleasant climbing to the top.
Additional info:
The name means “hawk”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Grug
15m VS
30-Jan-2011, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Hebog.
4b After a steep start, follow the heathery cracks to the top.
Additional info:
The name means “heather”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Tarfu
14m VS
30-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Grug, and 1 metre right of the left edge of the wall.
5a Move up, and span leftwards to the edge. Follow this to a ledge and a finish up the corner above. Deceptively steep and difficult throughout!
Additional info:
The name means “to scare”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Swerved Rib
30m S
03-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Despite its grandiose name this crag consists of many craglets spread over the hillside to the right (East) of the stream draining Cwm Lloer. The most outstanding craglet is situated 60 metres below the stone wall and 50 metres right of the stream (O S Ref 667 617). It is easily identified by its white, impressive headwall; and an offwidth flake crack on its right side. Start at the very lowest part of the craglet at its left side below an easy-angled curved rib.
Scramble up the curved rib and follow awkward, steeper rocks, with the occasional suspect block, in the same line to the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Curvaceous
10m VS
03-feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres up and LEFT of Swerved Rib, at the foot of an attractive arête, just left of a grassy gully.
4c Climb the arête, with an unsuspected bald section in the middle. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Suave Scoop
20m VS
03-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 16 metres above and RIGHT of Swerved Rib in a recess just below and left of the headwall.
4b Climb the wall on the right for 3 metres, before stepping left into the slabby scoop. Follow this up and leftwards and escape left at the crack to gain and a finish up Swerved Rib. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Minilith
Length/grade/stars : 12m HS
03-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres right of Suave Scoop at a subsidiary block.
4a Climb the right side of the block and move up to gain and follow a shallow groove in the outer face of the offwidth flake crack. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Purrfek
7m S
03-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The next route is on a tapering slab with an impending lower section, some 100 metres right of Minilith on the far side of a stone wall. This is a formidable obstacle; but can be crossed 120 metres lower at a collapsed section! Start at the foot of the impending wall guarding the slab.
4c Climb the left-trending groove to gain and follow the left arete. Exquisite, but only if the holds on the small rock wall on the left are scrupulously avoided! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Bullet
9m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: As the path from Glan Dena enters Cwm Lloer, it levels out and becomes marshy. Opposite the East end of the llyn the path passes below a small, steep, pock-marked wall, with a left-trending ramp in its centre (O S Ref 663 619). Start at the left side of this wall.
Climb the wall in three rises.
Additional info:
Incidentally, the grid reference for Craig Lloer (Kirkus’s Route) is out by about a third of a kilometre. The correct ref. is 659 622. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Recoil Ramp
11m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Bullet.
The left-trending ramp proves awkward. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Moonbase Alpha
16m HS
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 120 metres further along the path to the right, a ridge rises from a small, intermittant llyn; with a large glacis forming its left-hand side. Rising from the left side of the glacis are four stand-alone buttresses. The left-hand one has a leaning corner on its left and a heathery groove in its centre. Start at the foot of the heathery groove.
4a Step left and follow the left rib of the heathery groove to a steepening. Climb this on the right and follow a small groove to easier ground. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Moonstroke
17m VS
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Moonbase Alpha.
4b Gain and climb the right rib of the heathery groove (taking care with the perched flake at the start!). Continue up a thin crack, and where it ends move left and finish up Moonbase Alpha. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Moonwalk
15m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Moonstroke.
Climb the beautiful groove in the slender second buttress. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Moon Key
12m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Moonwalk on blocks at the foot of the third buttress.
Hurl yourself over the undercut and move up the crack above to gain easier ground. The arete 1 metre LEFT gives a few interesting moves Cold Light (HS 4b). |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Waxing
12m VD
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres above and right of Moon Key on the left flank of the fourth and final buttress.
Trend rightwards up the wall and finish up the groove. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Armadillo
20m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres down and right of Waxing at the lowest point of the ridge (low tide only!).
Climb the armour-plated ridge to easier ground and the glacis. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Wind
12m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 35 metres right of Armadillo is a square wall with a scooped central groove, offering five perfect miniatures. Where rough rock and the occasional jug has to compensate for the negligible protection! Start 1 metre left of the scooped central groove.
Climb the rib, past a light-coloured section of rock to the top. The rib 3 metres above and left gives Earth (9m S). |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Fire
12m VS
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start below the scooped central groove.
4a Climb the groove; simply superb! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Erda
12m HS
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Fire.
4b Climb the rib; small cams protect. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Guya
9m S
08-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres above and right of Erda.
Climb the slabby wall. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Moonlight Serenade
16m S
12-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres below and left of Moonbase Alpha, at the foot of the grassy groove leading up to the leaning corner.
Climb the scruffy wall on the left, leftwards and up to gain the fine upper rib. Follow the rib and finish rightwards across the mossy slab. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Sonata
14m S
12-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres above and right of Moon Key, at the start of a wide crack slanting leftwards.
Hand traverse the wide crack and step up into it as it narrows. Gain the arête on the left and finish up it in two stages. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Amarillo
20m VD
12-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Armadillo.
Climb the right-slanting facet of rock just right of the mossy crack and reach the glacis. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Cwm Lloer
Wrynose
16m VD
12-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres above and right of Amarillo.
Climb the wall, and continue up the rib, keeping right of the mossy groove. Go left to the glacis; or climb the short wall (harder). |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Llethr Siocled
32m S
20-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Hallt, below the dark slabs.
Climb a short corner and continue up the twin cracks in the main slab, stepping left near their top to reach the steep headwall. Avoid this by a groove system on the left; before following a crack on the left and a clean slab above to finish.
Additional info:
The name means “chocolate slope”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Esgyrn Sychion
29m VS
20-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Llethr Siocled below a shallow groove, defining the left side of the main slab.
4b Climb the steepening rib to gain the shallow groove. Up this, until moves left and up near its top leads to a junction with Llethr Siocled below its groove system. Start the groove, then move right onto the arête of the headwall. A few steep pulls reaches heathery ground; from where the clean slab on the left (on Llethr Siocled), will prove irresistible!
Additional info:
The name means “dry bones” Apologies: you may also receive an incomplete input for this route! ! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Torheulo
17m S
20-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Sixty metres above and right of Hallt the more broken crags form a worthwhile upper tier. The highest (left-hand) section, has a spiky groove branching rightwards from a vertical heather break. Start here, cairn!
Climb the spiky groove and continue up the crackline, over two steepenings to reach easier ground. Either; scramble pleasantly up the left edge of the slab, or traverse left (looking in) to reach a useful descent ramp.
Additional info:
The name means “to sunbathe”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Gwres
15m VS
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres LEFT of Torheulo at a white rib just right of a grassy break.
4b Climb the rib to a ledge below a steep wall. Use the corner on the right to reach good holds on the ledge above and hand traverse left before pulling up to finish up a hidden flake crack.
Additional info:
The name means “heat”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Llosgi
13m VS
29-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Gwres and 3 metres left of Torheulo at a rib.
4b Climb the flakes up the left-trending rib to gain a small ledge. Finish up the thin brown cracks just right of the nose above.
The name means “burn”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Gloyw
18m S
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Torheulo.
Scramble up the easy-angled slab, and climb a steeper wall to reach the headwall. Follow a flake leftwards up the headwall; before a stiff pull gains a ledge. Finish up the short slab on the right.
Additional info:
The name means “shiny”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Creigiau’r Ole Wen
Nant Poeth
11m S
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres right of Gloyw at a white rib, below and left of a prow containing a tiny V-groove.
Climb the white rib; step left and follow the left wall of the corner above.
Additional info:
The name means “hot valley”! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Stimulated Emission
7m HS
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: By following the stone wall downhill from Purrfek for 150 metres and over a small rise; a steep wall with a pinnacle is seen over to the left (looking out). Start near the top of a gorse and rock ramp rising leftwards below the wall
4c Climb the first (wide) crack in the wall with interest. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Lucid
9m HS
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Stimulated Emission.
4b Climb onto the wall, step up right and follow the crack system to the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Half-Light
11m VD
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Lucid at a triangular niche.
Pull onto the flake on the right, move up, and finish up the ramp on the left. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Light Sabre
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down and right of Half-Light below the pinnacle.
Gain the corner on the left of the pinnacle with interest from the right. Climb the corner to the summit of the pinnacle; step across and finish up the short rib. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Clogwyn Mawr
Angle Poise
18m VS
28-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres down and right of Light Sabre, on a glacis below a blunt rib.
4c Climb the blunt rib to the bulge; overcome this awkwardly to its left, before continuing up a slab. Move left and ascend the right flank of the pinnacle of Light Sabre and finish as for that route. The awkward wide crack, just right, and the straightforward slab above give Schlatten Crack (20m S 28.04.11). |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Daylight
20m S
13-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Cross the Alf Embleton stile and begin the walk up the SSW Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen. Roughly level with the lip of Cwm Bochlwyd opposite and at O S Ref 651 608 a fine-looking, sheer, flaky wall, riven by many cracks is reached. Ten metres left of this wall is a smaller buttress, almost forming a stand-alone pinnacle, with a heather groove defining its right-hand side, cairn! Start below this heather groove.
Climb the groove to a grassy bay; step right and follow the gangway-like ribs to the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Hot Rib
10m S
13-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 11 metres left of Daylight below the left rib of the buttress.
Climb the left side of the rib, pleasant! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
End of the Tunnel
20m S
13-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty-five metres left of Hot Rib across the scree slope is a steep buttress with an obvious corner on its right. Start towards the left side of the buttress at the foot of a slanting chimney, 10 metres left of the corner.
Gaining and starting the chimney is a real struggle; but once the small flakepinnacle is reached things ease! A neat groove in the slab above and right leads to easier ground and the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Into the Light
17m VD
13-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: One hundred and twenty metres below Daylight and easily seen from above are two walls separated by a heatherboulder slope (descent). The left-hand wall is graced by a beautiful quartz ribbon below its right side. Start on the left end of the quartz ribbon.
Climb the slab up and leftwards to a ledge; then follow cracks and easier ground to the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Spotlight
15m S
13-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Into the Light.
4a Climb the slab to the roof; pull over and continue to a ledge. Finish up the thin crack in the bulge. Good, and looks much harder! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Leitmotif
15m S
13-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The left side of the right-hand wall is rather dirty. The next route therefore starts towards the right side of the right-hand wall below a long groove, cairn; approximately 11 metres left of the right end of the wall.
Climb the long groove; and utilize the impressive flake crack on the right to reach the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Shining Through
10m HS
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres above and left of Into the Light at a small pedestal below a slim groove in an arête; and just left of a large jammed flake.
4b Climb the slim groove for 4 metres, then step right and follow the crack in the right side of the arête to the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Morning Light
11m HS
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Into the Light below a shallow groove.
4b Climb the shallow groove using holds on its left rib. Pull through the bulge and continue to the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Light Search
10m VD
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Morning Light.
Climb the corner, then continue up the thin crack and slab above. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Jewels in the Sky
17m S
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of Leitmotif, below and slightly left of a prow at 9 metres.
Climb the fine left arete of a square wall to a ledge. Climb the next wall up and leftwards to skirt the prow; before traversing back right above it to finish up a crack. An outstanding little route at the standard! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Limelight
14m VD
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres above and left of Jewels in the Sky.
Climb the wall just left of the blocky gully. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
A Lighter Touch
12m S
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Limelight at two flakes.
Step off the left-hand flake and climb the wall above; keeping well away from the huge dodgy pinnacle on the left |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Lightshow
14m S
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres RIGHT of Leitmotif at a roofed recess.
4a Climb the right-hand corner of the recess and pass the roof. Continue up the cracks above; keeping just to the right of the downward-pointing “dollop” near the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Glint
14m HS
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Lightshow at another recess below a curved bulge.
4b Climb the left-hand corner of the recess and pass the curved bulge. Continue up the cracks and use finesse to overcome the thin cracks in the top wall. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Torch
14m VS
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Glint at thin cracks.
4b Climb the thin cracks then trend up slightly leftwards to reach an arête; and finish up the left side of this. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Dimmer
6m VS
14-Jul-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Torch at the square arête which terminates the wall.
4c Climb the arête, with one or two awkward moves. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Genie of the Lamp
8m VS
03-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and left of Shining Through.
4c Gain, and climb the hanging groove in the upper arête delicately; interesting! |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Aladdin
8m VS
03-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Morning Light.
4c Climb the thin crack to easier ground and the top. |
Pen yr Ole Wen > Braich Ty Du
Borealis
14m HS
03-Aug-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Limelight.
4a Climb the fine slab and take the steep headwall just right of centre on creaky flakes! |
| Carnedd Dafydd |
Carnedd Dafydd > Carreg Mianog > Creigiau Hirion
Bitter Hop
20m, E1 5ab, one star
22-May-2010, John H Bull
Start: New crag. Approach as for Carreg Mianog, but pass underneath and head for a clean buttress up and right (687621), with a clean slabby south face and a blunt nose on the right. Good, compact rock – excellent on this route.
30m. Romp up the obvious rightward-slanting crack to a thread. Move left and up to a small ledge, aiming for a groove left of the main nose, then wonder why you ever came. The groove above appears daunting but holds appear as height is trepidatiously gained. Not sure that the grade reflects the real difficulties, felt bold for E1, but then I’m a wimp.
Additional info:
Onsight
 |
Carnedd Dafydd > Carreg Mianog > Creigiau Hirion
The Petrified Florist
14m, HVS 5a
22-May-2010, John H Bull, unseconded
Start: New crag. Approach as for Carreg Mianog, but pass underneath and head for a clean buttress slightly up and right (687621), with a clean slabby south face and a blunt nose on the right. Good, compact rock.
Start at the left hand end of the buttress, climb a groove and rather heathery crack to a stiff exit. Several small-mid-sized cams useful.
Additional info:
Some minor gardening on ab. |
Carnedd Dafydd > Carreg Mianog
Biceps Wall Direct
31m. E1. 1 star.
30-May-2005, Graham Iles, Joanna Dunstan
Start: The route tackles the obvious crack in the centre of the wall to the left of the upper section of the first pitch of Biceps Wall. Start as for Biceps Wall.
- 21m Follow Biceps Wall to the niche and up to a ledge. Climb straight up for a few feet and then step right to gain the obvious crack in the wall. Climb this direct with interest to reach the ledge with the ‘cannon’. A good pitch.
- 10m Finish as for Biceps Wall.
Additional info:
Clean ascent. |
Carnedd Dafydd > Carreg Mianog
Zip Up
25m E1 5b **
01-May-2005, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start: 2m to the left of Zip wall, on the right hand end of grassy platform.
Climb directly to the obvious overlap at 5m then make a committing rockover to gain the right arête. Follow the arête on its left hand side until the ledge is reached at the top of Zip groove. Finish up the upper crack of this route.
Additional info:
A brilliant, clean and obvious line with good small protection for the crux rockover move around the overlap.
On sighted – no cleaning needed. 2nd ascent by Mike Rain shortly after confirmed the grade. |
Carnedd Dafydd > Carreg Mianog
Route Comment: Zip Up
09-May-2020, Mike Hammill
As climbed and originally described the route Zip Up gains the ledge at the top of the arête joining Zip Groove. It steps right from there onto the wall and then climbs a very thin crack past pebbles (second crux) to the top. We did not just finish up Zip Groove. |
| Carnedd Llywelyn |
Carnedd Llywelyn > Pen Llithrig Y Wrach
Can Y Graig
20m VS 4a
03-Jun-2013, Trefor Roberts, Wyn Williams
Start: As in Carneddau Guide (717 617)Pitch descriptions:
Start at the far right hand of buttress(facing in) at an arête and slab.Start at the foot of the slab at an embedded block, climb up trending left to loose blocks, up the groove above to a traverse line leading to the arête on the left. Semi mantel up to a ledge on the arête in an exposed position. Pass the detached block carefully on it’s left. Climb behind to the Rowan and up the groove behind to the top. Block anchor well back.
Additional info:
A trad route for the loose rock connisuer. Route named after the numerous sonorous spikes encountered en route and the leaders ‘Singing Rock’ harness. Led and cleaned onsight by Trefor Roberts and followed by Wyn Williams. (NB: I submitted this information on the wrong form earlier today; apologies; tired!) |
Carnedd Llywelyn
Route Comment: various but Great Gully in particular
Submitted by Ken Daykin – 16-Oct-2021,
Approach details could be better. I think the guidebook should say: From Bwlch Eryl Farchog: For routes on south Crag or North Crag, including Ampitheatre Buttress and Great Gully, descend the footpath that heads towards Cwm Eigiau. Then traverse under the crags. I think most people heading this way will be intending to climb Ampitheatre Buttress or Great Gully. Both are three star routes so should have more info on how to approach them. Great Gully can be difficult to find particularly in misty conditions. After passing below South Crag the massive scree and grass fan issuing from The Ampitheatre is encountered. Ampitheatre Buttress is on the left here. For Great Gully cross the scree fan and descend slightly to the toe of North Buttress (this is where Vanishing gully starts). Then ascend a steep grass slope on the right for about 200 feet until below Great Gully. It might be worth mentioning that the true nature of the gully is not seen from this position as only the first pitch can be seen. For routes on Ampitheatre Wall and Pinnacle Wall continue leftwards uphill until above The Ampitheatre. Descend The Ampitheatre with care keeping mostly to the left side. It is not helpful to refer to C and D gullies in the introduction as most folk are not going to read the whole section about the crag to discover their whereabouts. It may also be worth mentioning that experienced climbers can abseil to approach the routes. |
| Foel Fras and Foel Grach |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Mab Y Maen
25m, S
03-Jul-2011, Wyn Williams, Owain Williams
Start: On B5106 from Llanrwst turn left before the pub ‘Y Bedol’, continue up to park at road end at 732663. Walk past the dam to Hafod y Rhiw then leave quarry track right as it starts ascending continuing to the farthest dwelling in the cwm, Cwm Eigiau Cottage, walk past to a stile and ascend steeply on grass before traversing over scree and boulders to base of crag (71420,64163).
Single pitch, Rhyolitic ashflow tuff. Facing crag with gully on left start three meters right of gully. Step onto small niche and ascend to bottom of groove via small spike, ascend short wall and exit right through niche. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Tess
25m, VS ,1star
03-Jul-2011, Owain williams, Wyn Williams
Start: On B5106 from Llanrwst turn left before the pub ‘Y Bedol’ continue up to park at road end 732663. Walk past Hafod Y Rhiw then leave quarry track right as it starts ascending, continuing to the farthest dwelling in the cwm, Cwm Eigiau Cottage, walk past to a stile and ascend steeply on grass before traversing right over scree and boulders to bottom of crag. Descend by going up from top of crag and turning left and return down steep grass.
Single pitch, 25m, 4b.facing crag with gully on left start one meter right of gully. Ascend short wall to large flake, continuing up right of vegetated groove to small stance under steep wall marked with white spot; exit left via groove. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Greeny
25m, VS
10-Jul-2011, Owain Williams, Simon Jones, Wyn Williams, Gareth Pritchard
Start: Approach as for ‘Tess’. Start route between ‘Tess’ and ‘Mab Y Maen’
Go up boldly for three meters directly up to cracked block. Ascend block directly to small stance. Continue up through niche right of wall with white spot over flake.
Additional info:
New crag,first ascent. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Mab Y Maen Direct Finish
25m, HVS
10-Jul-2011, Owain Williams, Simon Jones, Wyn Williams, Gareth Pritchard
Start: Approach as for ‘Tess’ and ‘Mab Y Maen’
Take the line of Mab y Maen to top of cracked wall finishing up wall left of niche. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Garabiner
28m, VS
10-Jul-2011, Gareth Pritchard, Wyn Williams, Simon Jones, Owain Williams
Start: Approach as for ‘Tess’ and ‘Mab Y Maen’. Start three meters down and right of ‘Mab y Maen’ either in small gorse bushes or step up onto small incut ledge.
Follow obvious crack which divides butress centrally all the way to the base of groove of ‘Mab y Maen’,continue up groove and exit niche of ‘Mab Y Maen’
Additional info:
Trad, first ascent. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
J.L.S
25m, HS
10-Jul-2011, Simon Jones, Owain Williams, Wyn williams, Gareth Pritchard
Start: Approach as for ‘Tess’ and ‘Mab Y maen’. Start up and right of ‘Garabiner’ at large incut triangle.
Follow crack left of triangle up to obvious small square hole. Mantle onto ledge above, move slightly right and ascend bulge on good holds up to spike.
Additional info:
Trad, first ascent |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Ysbryd Cedryn
25m, V Diff
01-Sep-2011, Wyn Williams, Stephanie Meakin
Start: Same aproach as for ‘Tess’
- 12m: Start as for J.L.S. Go up to thin fallen block,ascend groove and continue up to left hand side of small roof. Traverse right to belay on large ledge.
- 13m: Ascend crack at back of wall, continue up slabby rock to belay well back.
Additional info:
Trad route. Ledge is escapable at top of pitch one. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Eigiau > Craig Gallt Cedryn
Cedryn Groove
55 m, E2, 1 or 2 star
10-Aug-2000, Harold Walmsley
Start: About 1/2 mile beyond the last cottage in Cwm Eigiau a low relief rib runs down the hillside. The crag lies on the flank of this rib that faces up the Cwm. It can be recognised by a band of large overhangs at about half height above an impressive hanging slabgangway. From the last cottage in Cwm Eigiau (Cedryn on map) gain the open hillside and either follow the valley floor until the crag can be seen then plod up to it or go diagonally across the hillside (less strenuous but you can’t see the crag and if you hit the ridge too high you will have to descend round the base of the crag. Start below the left hand end of the characteristic large overhangs at a cluster of flakes below a short groove.
- 25 m, 5c. Make a hard reach to holds on the slabby patch above the short groove. Step R to a groove that leads through a bulge. Make a long reach to good holds over the bulge and move L to easier ground (this is at the L end of the impressive hanging gangway). Continue past the left end of the big overhang to ledges just above.
- 30 m 5a. Traverse right on an obvious break (hands then feet) to a blunt rib at thee far end. Climb this to the top.
Additional info:
The route was solo-led using a Soloist self-belay device. This enabled me to do it as 1 pitch (no rope drag like this) but I think it would need to be split as deescribed for conventional leading. There is a crack directly above p1 and another some way along the traverse of p2. I also climbed these whilst removing my gear from the route after the ascent (multiple short abs needed because of the long traverse on p2, I climbed the variant lines to get up after each ab). However I top-roped these rather than led them. They were easier than the described finish (4b4c). A route on this crag is described on the CC Carneddau new routes page. This gives the crag name I have used (Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag) but in view of the trend to Welsh names this seems retrograde. As the hillside is called Gallt Cedryn and the cottage is marked on the map as Cedryn, I suggest Craig Gallt Cedryn or similar. |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Yr Ysfa > North Crag
A Little Yellow Pill
40m E5 6a ☆☆
26-May-2018, Tim Neill, Nick Bullock
Start between Tranquilizer and Mother’s Little Helper at a short pillar. This gains access to the right end of the Tranquilizer ledge.
As for Tranquilizer for a couple of moves then move up right onto wall above the left facing groove. Move up to a horizontal finger rail (crucial RP2 or similar) then make a hard move right to better holds and a good nut. Move up to follow a right facing flake to good holds and gear. Move up then left into centre of the headwall and follow this with good holds to the top of the wall
Additional Info:
For further info… ***The Tranquiliser 40m E4 6a Takes the finger crack that splits the big left wall of Great Gully. At half-height in Great Gully are 2 cracks right of a detached pinnacle. This is the right-hand one. A bold and slightly damp start leads to the crack – crux. Follow the crack to a small overlap. Go over this, out left, then back right to finish. Lovely climbing. F.A. Andy Cave, Ian McNeill 14.5.93 **Mother’s Little Helper 40m E2 5b On Great Gully left wall 10m right of Tranquiliser at the foot of the Chimney Pitch. Climb to a little spike on the right below an overlap. Layaway and reach up for a large flat hold up and left, step across to gain a seam (crux), layaway on this to gain the crack proper. Several tricky moves establish you in the crack. Follow the crack to the roof/overlap at the top. A tricky sequence over this leads to a belay in a square corner – and a well earned rest! F.A. Ian McNeill, Phil McCready 01.06.97
 |
Foel Fras and Foel Grach > Craig Yr Ysfa > Pinnacle Wall
Pinnaclissima (free ascent)
50m E2 5c ☆☆
19-Aug-2023, Andy Sharp and John Harwood (free ascent)
The route was first attempted by John Harwood and R.F. (Bob) Burns on 16 Oct. 1965. On the second pitch, Harwood placed a peg (our only runner in those days) but, seeing that a second peg would be needed, decided to retreat and leave it for someone else. He returned with Andy Sharp (and some small nut runners) and they made a free ascent on 14 July 1980. This may have been the first free ascent? |
| Craig Allt y Bont |
Craig Allt y Bont > Hounslea’s Buttress
Non-stop Grunting
16 m, HVS
14-Feb-2012, Colin Struthers, Harold Walmsley
Start: Access situation not known, be discreet. If there are not too many leaves on the trees, the crag can be seen on the right hand flank of the valley when looking back towards Abergwyngregyn from the Aber Falls car park at SH 662 723 (by the bridge across the river). Cross the river and bushwhack up the slope to the crag. The routes are on the biggest, cleanest buttress. Descend on the right (looking up)
16 m, 5b. Climbs the arête to the left of the prominent crack of Porky Pies starting on the same vegetated ledge (above and left of the toe of the buttress and gained via an obvious flake). Start just left of Porky Pies and climb the pockety wall until the holds lead to the arete. Follow this to the top. Good climbing at the bottom. |
Craig Allt y Bont > Hounslea’s Buttress
This Little Piggy
20 m, HVS (E1?)
14-Feb-2012, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start: Crag approach and descent as for Non-stop Grunting. Start at the toe of the buttress.
20 m, 5a (just 5b?), Climb the rib L of the vegetated corner, move R to the base of the shallow groove (resisting bridging across to the vegetation) and follow it over two steepenings to the top. Good climbing in the groove but close to vegetation and artificial at the bottom. |
Craig Allt y Bont > Hounslea’s Buttress
Porky Pies
17 m, HVS
14-Feb-2012, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start immediately R of No-stop Grunting on the higher ledge to the left of the toe of the buttress. Approach and descent as for that route.
17 m 4c5a. Climbs the very prominent crack. Gain the crack from the L and follow it until where it veers L into Non-stop Grunting. At this point move R and follow the R side of the arête to join non-stop Grunting just below the top (it may be better to follow the crack all the way). Good climbing to where you leave the crack but peters out a bit after that. |
| Crafnant |
Crafnant > Far Forestry Buttress > left wall
Don’t
15m HS
22-Apr-2005, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start: The route starts on the right-hand side of the left wall of Far Forestry Buttress to the left of Crochet by a shaky spike.
Take the wall above the shaky spike by the line of least resistance
Additional info:
Climbed on sight with no cleaning – this was a mistake. It will probably be repeated and cleaned during the current phase of activity (Autumn 2016).
 Click to enlarge |
Crafnant > Far Forestry Buttress > left wall
Hard Brexit
22m E4 6b ***
09-Oct-2016, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start: In the centre of the left wall is an overhanging crack system leading to dangerous blocks. To the left beyond this the base of the crag is guarded by large roofs. The route starts from a cave about 3 m up easy rock at the left end of the roofs and climbs the obvious corner crack after breaching the initial brutal roof. There are two yellow slings in-situ. Above Hard Brexit goes left and up the arête to gain the hanging groove in the roof while Soft Brexit goes right and climbs the right side of the exposed arête.
From the cave make a hard move to get a sling onto the good spike and tie this down to gear at the back of the cave. From below the right side of the spike make a big move from an under-cling to reach the spike via a poor sharp edged pocket. Swing left from the spike with a very hard move to gain a small horizontal pinch by the second thread (Friend 4 or better (?) Camalot 4 in slot to left). Make more hard moves using hidden holds to reach the pockets above and a welcome rest by a superb spike. Hard Brexit goes left from here. Foot traverse the pockets to the left arête and a hidden pocket. Move up the arête with increasing difficulty and good protection to bold moves round a bulge into the sustained upper groove. Follow this to the top. Good belays on the back wall: Camalot 4, 2, 1 and rock 4 but a belay on the edge recommended.
Additional info:
I became aware of this crag in 2005 but due to the pressure of work never went back after the initial visit to do “Don’t”. This latter route was climbed on sight and showed that this was a bad approach here! The cracks have loose debris and there is too much lichen. Having retired I eventually managed to get back and clean the two more recent routes recorded here. The grades are tentative and my ascents had the advantage of prior knowledge of both holds and protection. The start alone could well be 6c and the routes are a full grade harder than the E5 6bs at Clogwn Adar. The upper arête and groove would be E2 5c on its own. The route is amazing, great climbing and one of the best single pitch routes in the area. |
Crafnant > Far Forestry Buttress > left wall
Soft Brexit
22m E4 6b ***
09-Oct-2016, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start as for Hard Brexit and follow this route to the good spike (perhaps this common ground should be called Invoking Article 50?).
From the spike on Hard Brexit go up and right to good pockets and then right to the arête (hidden pocket round to the right. Climb the right side of the arête to the top – good holds decent protection and the odd long reach. This upper section is probably HVS in its own right. It was not cleaned and is a little dirty. It provides an easy way up for those who don’t fancy the Hard Brexit. Descents can be made down the left side of the crag.
Additional info:
More new routes to come here but none in the class of the two Brexits. The walk in takes nearly 2 hours from the end of the Crafnant lake following the foot path. Turn left on the last forestry road (tree marked with red ring) and go up passing a large turning circle. Turn left on an overgrown road at the sharp bend. The crag is directly above you on the right side of the valley and hidden. Reaching the crag is a soul destroying flog through rough ground and steep heather. The central groove line looks appealing but has some horrendously large, loose jammed blocks in it. A 10m high by 2 m wide vertical sliver seems to be sitting a tilted cracked block about 1 m long! As a geologist and former charted engineer I would recommend people stay away!! I cleaned the top half down to the blocks took one look and ran away quickly. |
Crafnant > Far Forestry Buttress > left wall
Full English Brexit
 Click to enlarge 20m HVS 5a *
23-Oct-2016, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start: In the centre of the left wall is a steep groove line with dangerous hanging blocks. To the right is a light grey wall. This route climbs the dark grey overhanging groove on the right side of the white wall and just left of a ground level spike.
Climb up the groove and gain a position on the left arête. Cross rightwards and enter a shallow chimney awkwardly. Finish up this moving diagonally leftwards above keeping to the clean rock to belay in a large alcove beneath a huge block.
Additional info:
Not the best route here. Climbed on sight and a bit dirty in places. When fully cleaned it will be a decent warm up. |
Crafnant > Far Forestry Buttress > left wall
Continental Brexit
20m E2 5c *
23-Oct-2016, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start: Start uphill to the left of Full English Brexit, a meter right of a good thread at shoulder height and below three vertical slots.
Stride right and climb past the first two slots with difficulty but good protection. There is good protection in the top slot but the wall above is blank. Move right to two deep pockets (may be wet) and use a smaller pocket above to rock up right into a shallow groove immediately left of the chimney of Full English Brexit (FEB). Up this passing a good thread to easier ground and the finish of FEB.
Additional info:
The lower section is fierce with bomber but hard won protection. It is a pity there are no holds above the top slot. Climbed on sight and will be cleaned up. |
Crafnant > Far Forestry Buttress > left wall
Continental Brexit (direct finish)
23m E4 6a/b **
30-Oct-2016, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven
Start location: Start as for Continental Brexit original. It is advisable to belay on spikes immediately below the starting groove and to runner it from the very beginning!
Climb the faint groove with difficulty on small holds with good protection to hidden pockets below the last slot/crack. Move tenuously left on side holds to a small flat hold above a rock scar(ideally you need your right hand on this). Stand on the flat hold using a poor sloper on the left and a side hold in the thin crack (crux) and balance up to a good spike above. Back this up with a 0.75 Camalot in a short but good slot and a nut in a pocket on the right. Gaston across to the under-cling, bridge and stretch right to a good pocket in the wall. Bridge energetically up again (being careful not to kick the sling off the spike!!)and reach a good small spike (sling!). A further bridge on poor footholds brings a large flat hold. Move up and left to a bulging crack with two pockets on it’s right. Climb this to the top (surprisingly poor gear) and belay in the alcove. Very sustained indeed with difficult to read moves.
Additional info:
Originally attempted on sight but lichen and loose material forced me off to the right on the big pockets. The first ascent was made after cleaning but on a damp day. The crucial flat hold was actually wet and the areas between cleaned footholds were treacherous. The leader nearly kicked the sling off the spike. The climbing is very blind and committing on the crux. Will probably feel easier on a dry day when it may merit 3*. |
| Craig Dinas |
Craig Dinas
Catriona and the Waves
40m E3 6a
05-Oct-2017, Paul Drew, Pete Johnson
Starts between By-Ways and Sinister Flutes at the foot of the overhanging wall behind the oak tree.
Climb up the overhanging wall, pumpy, to reach a good ledge just left of the small oak tree where the angle eases. Trend right above the oak tree into a scoop, climb up and left towards a pale slab, shared with Sinister Flutes. Climb the slab and the cleanest rock above to reach an in-situ abseil shared with Dinas Mawr Eliminate. |
