Holwell Tor, Dartmoor

Submitted by: : Barry Clarke
Crag: Holwell Tor (p 62)
Date of ascent: 15/03/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Drunken Buttress

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

The summit rocks of the Tor contain a swaggering buttress formed of four piled sections, facing north towards Hound Tor.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Start awkwardly up the right edge of the buttress, and trend leftwards, then rightwards to the top.

Super Moon Play

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Thirty metres below and left (facing out) of Drunken Buttress an attractive slab indicates the location of an interesting buttress with a curving chimney crack in its centre; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the flakes in the rib just left of the chimney crack to the main break. Traverse left, mantel and finish up the left side of the upper slab via the shallow scoop. May become a mini-classic, but the direct version is an open project, which will be superb and serious!

Ides Chimney and Flake

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start as for Super Moon Play.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the right side of the chimney crack, before launching leftwards along the flake to gain the top.