Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Staple Tor (p 284)
Date of ascent: 14/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Staple Diet
Length/grade/stars: 6m VD
Start location:
Start immediately right of Stapled Down.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the nice little rib on good holds. This now becomes the easiest way down sans rope!
Magma Ice
Length/grade/stars: 8m S
Start location:
Fifty metres right (in the direction of the radio mast) of the short right-hand tower containing Stapled Down is a particularly attractive buttress. It is bounded on its left by a deep gully and has a blunt rib in its centre. Start at the deep gully.
Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep left wall of the gully on amazing holds, moving slightly left near the top.
Maskelyne
Length/grade/stars: 9m S
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Magma Ice on a flat block.
Pitch descriptions:
4a Step onto the buttress and shuffle leftwards, passing a magnificent chicken-head, to gain and follow the left edge of the buttress.
Equatermass
Length/grade/stars: 10m VS
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Maskelyne below a shelf at the right end of the buttress.
Pitch descriptions:
4c Gain the shelf from the right and traverse daintily leftwards, moving up slightly, to gain the blunt rib. Finish elegantly up this.
Additional info:
On Roos Tor, Kanga D, felt more like S 4a, despite a recent spring-clean!
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