Craig yr Hafn, Lleyn

Submitted by: Steve Long
Crag: Craig yr Hafn

Waxwing

Date of ascent: 25/07/2017
Length/grade/stars: 50m E3 5c 1 star
Climbers: Steve Long, Tim Jepson

Start location:

Start as for Pistachio/Verdigris at the embedded boulder at the right end of the terrace, directly below the big corner system that Icarus touches but breaks away again.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 30m. 5c. A tricky start takes the undercut groove, pulling harder on the prominent rock finger than you would like to. Continue in the same line up a shallow groove and pull over the capping overlap, making for a lone Rowan sapling. The climbing now eases: a steep ramp leads leftwards to a ledge in the corner.
2. 20m. 5b. Continue straight up the corner to a capping overlap with some slightly dubious jammed blocks. Undercut these and pull straight over. Easier climbing on brittle flat holds leads to the top.