Carn Gowla St Agnes Head, North Devon & Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Carn Gowla St Agnes Head (p 279)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Date of ascent: 20/11/2016

Outer Limit

Length/grade/stars: 33m S

Start location:

Start as for Outland (CC Website!)

Pitch descriptions:

1. 18m Follow Outland to the hidden comfortable ledge, but continue at the same level for 8 metres to reach a large ledge at high tide level.
2. 15m Above, the main features are; an impending crystalline wall on the right, a tapering groove leading to an overhanging crack in the centre and a grey wall on the left. Climb the grey wall to a bulge, overcome this by a tiny groove on its left. and finish up a right-trending ramp.

Date of ascent: 28/11/2016

Philanthropist

Length/grade/stars: 21m S

Start location:

Approach as for Song at Twilight (CC Website)

Pitch descriptions:

4a Takes the line of the abseil descent. Climb the left side of the groove, then divert over to the right side at half-height, before finishing up the straightforward and drier upper groove. Interesting!

Date of ascent: 29/11/2016

Florizelle

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS

Start location:

Approach as for Song at Twilight (CC Website) to the slabby cliff edge. Ten metres left (facing out) and a few metres below the short yellow ridge a small cairn indicates the abseil location. Position the rope slightly towards the left (facing out). The abseil leads to a niche 3 metres above high tide level and below a fine slabby wall, with a bulbous prow at its top.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Traverse leftwards along twin cracks to gain a recess. From the top left-hand side of the recess follow the thin crack which trends leftwards to the bounding ridge. Finish more easily up the broad ridge. Quality climbing!