Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs, South Devon

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)

Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 25/09/2017

Peasy Crack

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Just left (facing out) of Anteak (CC Website) a small inlet defines the left side of an easy-angled buttress (named as Easy Buttress in the SW Climbs, Vol 2 book!). Abseil down the left side (facing in) of the easy-angled buttress to a small ledge just below high water mark.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Traverse left, descending slightly along a flake handrail for 4 metres, to reach a thin crack just before the inlet narrows markedly. Make a steep pull to start the crack, which then leads pleasantly to the top.

Breakout

Length/grade/stars: 12m HS

Start location:

In the narrow zawn containing Daylight (CC Website), abseil down the back of the zawn to gain a sloping ledge. Mid/low tide and calm seas required!

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step right and climb a short groove to gain a ledge system on the left (facing out) wall of the zawn. Move right and make an awkward move to reach a rock boss above the right-hand end of the ledges. Follow positive holds directly to the top.

Climbers: BJ Clarke, P Ellis
Date of ascent: 04/10/2017

Dark Light

Length/grade/stars: 13m HS

Start location:

Approach as for Breakout (CC Website) by abseiling down the back of the narrow zawn to gain the sloping ledge. Mid/low tide and calm seas required!

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up a ramp to gain a sheltered stance below the chimney proper, which forms the back of the zawn. Climb the chimney up a motley concoction of rock.

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