Submitted by: Pete Saunders
Crag: Predannack
Life of Brian
Date of ascent: 20/02/2018
Length/grade/stars: 97m E3
Climbers: Pete Saunders, Brian Hannon
Start location:
Would be between route 56 and 57 in 2018 CC Cornwall guide. It climbs the seaward face of the Leaning Pinnacles from the boulder beach.
Pitch descriptions:
An Alpine-style adventure with more than its fair share of loose rock.
- 45m 4c Climb the obvious smooth groove then trend left over easier unprotected loose slabs. It is safest to approach the belay from the left. Belay on a spike at the base of Off Width His Head. (It might be prudent to seek a safer stance futher left to protect the belayer from potential rockfall.)
- 22m 5b Step up right onto the flat ledge. Move up and place gear in the crack on the left before spanning right to an offwidth crack. Make bold moves up this to good gear at a steepening, then break right onto a slab. Carefully pick your way through the loose rock to a ledge composed of loose rocks. Step left to a wide crack (cam4) and make commiting moves up the wall immediately to its left to arrive at a good belay stance.
- 20m 4a As for Off Width His Head.
- 20m 4a As for Off Width His Head.
Additional info:
On-sight
Sounds like a real adventure Pete, Well found.