Wintours Leap, The Great Wall, Small Wall, Lower Wye Valley

Submitted by: Mike Hope
Crag: Wintours Leap, The Great Wall, Small Wall

One for Button

Date of ascent: 19/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 15m E3 5c *
Climbers: Mike Hope, Peter Williams

Start location:

Small wall can only be sensibly reached by following the access for Narcotic corner and ‘Suicide is Dangerous’ as currently described in the guide book. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, walk down 3 metres to a multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small wall. ‘One for button’ takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of ‘Under a Raging Moon’

Pitch descriptions:

Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall. traverse left, then straight up through several horizontal breaks (one with many fossilised shells) to the thread well below the break in the roof. Move up again (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then reach out right (good friend placement) and a high step up onto the upper wall to better holds, more protection and a good rest. Arrange wire(s) and climb the delightful technical wall (peg) to a hard, thin few moves and eventual slap for the ledge and mantle to the top, (slightly easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge.

Additional info:

Small Wall has been extensively cleaned and the original routes of ‘Under a Raging Moon’ (15m E2 5c) and ‘Northerners Can’t Climb’ (15m E1 5b) have also now had their threads replaced. The former route is worthy of a star as with ‘One for Button’, both routes have high quality rock and interest of line packed into their short 15 metres. They are indeed little Gems !!
In addition there are now 2 abseil stations to replace using the tree above the ledge. The ledge itself has also been cleaned. Two other original routes have been cleaned. The earthy corner of ‘Tiswas’ (12m HS 4b) and the left face of the right wall is climbed by Amoeba (12m E1 5b) they are worthy of complementing the other 3 routes. These routes do not deserve to get lost in the undergrowth!

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