Vicarage Cliff, Lucky Hole, North Devon & Cornwall

Submitted by: Dave Viggers
Crag: Vicarage Cliff, Lucky Hole

Geriatric’s Traverse

Date of ascent: 18/01/17
Length/grade/stars: 60m HS
Climbers: Dave Viggers, Bob Watson (alts)

Start location:

A fun route, on perfect rock, in keeping with the light hearted nature of the routes on the main cliff. The route traverses the long slab bounding the northern side of Lucky Hole, staying above it’s undercut base and, obviously, below the cliff top. Start at the extreme right of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

  1. 30m 4b. Climb up to runners, then traverse left, easily at first, to a smoother section. Cross this, crux, to a groove, then shortly after a hanging stance.
  2. 30m. 4a. Continue in the same line, gradually dropping to high tide level at the end of the slab.

Additional info:

Originally climbed in the opposite direction, but described as above to avoid any down climbing.

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