Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
| Plump Hill Quarry - will be in
the next Symonds Yat guide -
click here for
New Routes |
Warning submitted by Colin Knowles
Lower Wye Valley Guide book
Crag - Wyndcliffe
Right Wing
There are three yew trees referred to in the route
description for Suncrush
(HVS). This tree no longer exists as a very large
rock has fallen from
above Cadillac and smashed it off completely.
Cadillac is unaffected,
though Elan (E2/3) may be. |
Submitted by : Ian Atkins
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Black Cliff Quarry, Castle Bay
Date of ascent : 10/05/1998
Route Name : Twenty Years After
Length/grade/stars : As per Guidebook
Climbers : Ian Atkins, Paul Greenhow. (Missing in
Guidebook - info sent to Martyn Cattermole).
Start location:
As per Guidebook.
Pitch descriptions:
As per Guidebook, except finish with;
Step right to belay on the twin bolt belay of "NETWORKING".
Additional info:
Led on sight. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 26th April 2008
Route Name : Caveat Emptor
Length/grade/stars : 24 metres, F6a
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Cathal Connern, Yvonne
Jones
Start location:
A surprisingly easy pitch, in experienced hands, up
the (once heavily ivy covered) wall immediately to
the right of 'Ring Tone'. Some brittle rock, in the
white central section, in keeping with the general
nature of the quarry. Seven bolt runners.
Pitch descriptions:
The initial wall is not immediately straightforward
but quickly leads to a commodious ledge. Continue
directly up the short, white depression to a handy
edge and swing out right on to a narrow foot-ledge.
Step up to the base of the hollow projecting flake
and purposefully avoid any close contact with it by
stepping out right. Pull up good edges above and
using a layaway in the roof above step back right to
ample holds. Finish easily up steeper ground to a
double bolt abseil station. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Ban-y-Gor Rocks - The Right-Hand Escarpement
Date of ascent : 30th September 2007
Route Name : Amuse Bouche
Length/grade/stars : 6 metres, F4+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones, Gary
Gibson (all led)
Start location:
To the left of 'That Historic Reach'
Pitch descriptions:
The prominent short and dusty scoop to the left of
'That Historic Reach'. Three bolt runners. Double
bolt abseil station. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 03/05/ 2008
Route Name : Dog of the Month
Length/grade/stars : 23 metres, F6a+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones
Start location:
The slight groove of sorts, some 8 metres upslope of
'Ring Tone' has a somewhat 'Tinternesque' feel
about it. Solid enough while keeping to the line of
the seven bolt runners. Start just to the right of
'Caveat Emptor'.
Pitch descriptions:
Surmount an awkward first bulge to easier ground in
the white depression. Now follow a series of thin
layaways while bridging up the steeper wall above
before swinging left to a comfy resting ledge. Step
back right to an agreeable steep finish. Double bolt
abseil station. |
Submitted by : Simon Tappin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Shorn Cliff, Fallacy
buttress
Date of ascent : 11/05/08
Route Name : The English Opium Eaters
Length/grade/stars : E6 6b for an on sight ascent.
2 stars
Climbers : Simon Tappin
Start location:
As per guidebook
Pitch descriptions:
as for original route but lead without the bolts
which have been removed.
Additional info:
DMM locknut 6 in pocket at 12m then dubious RP in
flake below crux. Abseil inspection before lead |
Submitted by : Alex Harper
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Shorn Cliff South Fallacy Buttress
Date of ascent : 11/05/08
Route Name : The Return of Forever
Length/grade/stars : 22m E2/E3 5b
Climbers : Alex Harper, seconded Phil Beddow
Start location:
Approach as stated in guide book, descent abseil
from station on Fallacy, start up centre of slab, a
one and half meter left of crack on Fallacy
Pitch descriptions:
22m E2/E3 5b start up the centre of the slab, one
and half meters left of Fallacy and 2 meters right
of the over grown corner. Climb the slab with not to
much difficulty to an over hang above, then step
left in to crack on Fallacy then continue up for 3
meters, making the most of good gear. At this point
you will see a small concretion on the slab right
near the arête, with this in hand move boldly up
slab following the line of the arête. Then continue
up the slab to top, past a thread first piece of
good gear after crack. At top move right with care
and take belay of Fallacy.
Additional info:
No fix gear, abseil inspection and quick clean then
lead ground up on sight. No known repeats. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 24/05/2008
Route Name : Lean Dark Hombre
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres F6c+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Ed Heslam, Tom Heslam
(all led)
Pitch descriptions:
An eliminate that keeps to the vague arête twixt The
Fire Escape and Two Mules for Sister Sara. A bit of
a desperate start gives way to much easier climbing
on some hollow rock. Six bolt runners. Double bolt
abseil station. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 24/05/2008
Route Name : Slimming in the Rain
Length/grade/stars : 20 metres F4+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Tom Heslam, Ed Heslam
(all led)
Pitch descriptions:
A long easy pitch suitable for those with a less
than perfect physique. Starts up the shallow chimney
immediately left of Rippled and Toned and take a
direct line to a double bolt abseil station. Six
bolt runners.
FA: |
