CC New Routes: South Devon

The Climbers' Club

New Routes - South Devon

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to:

including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : South Devon
Crag : South Hams, Sharp Tor
Date of ascent : 27/05/00
Route Name : We're in Love
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Start up the slope from Four Strong Winds, just right of the clean-cut overhang.

Pitch description:
22m. Gain and climb the obvious v-groove then easier ground trending rightwards to a finishing corner/groove.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : South Devon
Crag : Gammon Head
Date of ascent : Various see below
Start location:
To the left of "Mental Block" is a short steep wall split in the centre by a rightward leaning double crackline.

Routes:
The Esoteric Apprentice   VS 4c
60ft. Follows the crackline steeply to a ledge. Move leftwards across the impending wall above then back right, easily up a short corner to ledges and belay. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 29.3.97 on-sight)

Gentle Arete   E1 5a *
60ft. To the right is a fine arete, undercut at the base and easing in angle with a step near the top. Start on the left side, moving into a groove on the right side at about 20ft. Climb the interesting arete above gently with minimal protection. Thread belay well back on ledges. (F.A. Nick Taylor 29.3.97 on-sight)

Razor-back   E1 5a
65ft. Right again is an obvious groove-line which becomes more shallow towards the top.Climb this mainly by delicate bridging, past at least a couple of trust-worthy gear placements to a move rightwards onto a ledge. Regain composure, then finish directly up the continuation of the cornerline. Delicate, bold and exhilarating climbing up the next best line on the cliff after "Mental Block".
(F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight)

Sow Séance   VD
150ft. Climb the ramp-like arete that forms the right hand side of the "Mental Block" bay, in its entirety,on the edge overlooking the sea. Reached by an easy traverse from "Mental Block" or low-tide boulder hopping.
(F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight solo)

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : South Devon
Crag : Prawle Point
Date of ascent : 28/03/97
Route Name: Kestrel's Arete
Length/grade/stars : Diff
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Climbs the left arete of the first and largest buttress on the right, above the diagonal path leading up to the coastguard look-out

Pitch description:
A steep start leads to interesting lichen and climbing.

Additional info:
On-sight

Submitted by : James Latus
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Haytor Quarry
Date of ascent : 08/11/07
Route Name : Lord Of The Ho Garden
Length/grade/stars : 45ft, HVS, *
Climbers : Ben Bravington-Sim, James Latus
Start location:
Walk past Haytor keeping it on your left hand side until you see a gate. Go through the gate and you will see a lake in front of you on the far side is a slab, this is where the routes are.

Pitch descriptions:
45ft, 5a, Start to the left of Kaola in the obvious crack, follow the crack to the obvious indent then trend left along a crimp rail to a mantel, onto a good ledge (cam) then move right along the crack to finish up by a boulder. Boulder belay (dodgy) or fence posts way way back. Rig up your stance with static before you set off.

Additional info:
Leading placing protection.

Submitted by : James Latus
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Haytor Quarry
Date of ascent : 07/05/2008
Route Name : Ho Garden Direct
Length/grade/stars : 40ft, E4/5, ***
Climbers : James Latus
Start location:
From the main Haytor carpark with the new visitor centre, walk down the side of Haytor keeping it on your left hand side you will get to a gate near some big boulders, go through the gate and turn left. You will see a big pond in front of you and on the other side a big 40ft slab/wall.

Pitch descriptions:
40 feet. 6B, start as for "Lord of the Ho Garden" (HVS 5a) recent new ascent. Climb the crack in the centre of the slab (good gear) until you get to the 1st break that runs of right, with a place where a big piece of rock has fallen away. Last of the good gear. Now move onto harder ground, keep going straight up some good flat edges, bad "00 friend" off to the left, don't really want to fall on this. Now move to the crux hold 2mm sloping edge, a fall from here would leave you 1m from the deck. Move from the hold to a pocket up and right "three fingers" static hard pull. A fall from this hold = a ground fall I think. Move to a sloping break "0.5 friend" quite bad. Usually to pumped to place. Big move to final break. Then flat top near boulder.

Additional info:
Small gear no bigger than rock 7 and a 00 wild country friend. 0.5 friend optional