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New Routes - Meirionnydd

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to:

including Area, Crag and Route Name.

See also the Mid-Wales Climbing web site for bouldering, sport, slate and new routes information.

Submitted by : Rob Gray
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag/Section : Craig y Merched, Rhinos Buttress
Route Name : Fig Arete
Length, grade, stars : 12 metres VS 4c

Approach/Descent:
We struggled to find the crag and feel the guidebook description is incorrect and should read as follows: After seeing the cottage on the left (approx half a mile away) turn right on a forestry track (no stile). Continue along this for approx 350 metres turning left up a stone path. Follow the obvious path through bracken to the crag crossing over a stone wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Start just right of zig zag, climb direct to an arete which is followed to the top.

Climbers names : John Martin, Cath Sulivan
Date of ascent : 09/07/2005
Additional info: none

Submitted by : Rob Gray
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag/Section : Craig y Merched, Rhinos Buttress
Route Name : Rhino Hunting
Length, grade, stars : 14 metres HVS 5a

Approach/Descent:
[See Fig Arete]

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the excellent slabby wall just right of Horn of Plenty carefully avoiding the loose block under the first bulge.

Climbers names : John Martin, Cath Sulivan
Date of ascent : 09/07/2005
Additional info: none

Submitted by : Rob Gray
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag/Section : Craig y Gwynt
Route Name : Sun Baked
Length, grade, stars : 10 metres HVS 5a

Approach/Descent:

Pitch descriptions:
Start right of Don\'t Even Think of It up a little arÍte move rightwards to a block. Then up via an odd protruding foothold to finish leftwards through the final bulge.

Climbers names : John Martin, Cath Sulivan
Date of ascent : 10/07/2005

Additional info:
The central heather filled crack no longer has any heather and is now Heathers Demise (9m HS 4b, Chris Dale, Rob Gray 10/07/2005).

Submitted by : Rob Gray
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag/Section : Craig y Clipiau
Route Name : Pigeon Fanciers
Length, grade, stars : 45 metres VS 4c

Approach/Descent:
3 metres right of Jones Crack is a much thinner crack. Start directly below this crack just above the path.

Pitch descriptions:
1 20m . Climb up blocky rock to a stance in a little corner below the crack.

2. 25m 4c. Climb the crack direct to finish up 3 little corners to the top.

Climbers names : John Martin, Carol Umarova
Date of ascent : 17.07.05
Additional info: none

Submitted by : Rob Gray
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag/Section : Craig y Merched, Rhinos Buttress
Route Name : Pigs, Twigs & Figs
Length, grade, stars : 12 metres HVS 5a

Approach/Descent:
See Fig Arete

Pitch descriptions:
Start just left of Horn of Plenty, following the direct line to the top.

Climbers names : Rob Gray, Chris Dale
Date of ascent : 09/07/2005
Additional info: none

Submitted by : Rob Greenwood
Area : Merionnydd
Crag/Section : Craig Dinas, South Cliff
Route Name : A Swifts Whim
Length, grade, stars : 75m (apprx. - 2 pitches). HVS 5a/b. 1 star (possibly?)

Approach/Descent:
Approach to the right hand side of the crag as for Groove Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
1) 5a/b. Start up Groove Slab (4c) to beneath the overhangs. Move up and right onto the steep overhangs by means of a mantleshelf clipping a peg of unknown origin on the way. Continue across using huge underclings and jams with a large sloping ledge for your feet - very reminiscient of Hyll-Drem!! Continue to the end of the ramp and turn the final steep groove onto an easier slab. Belay above to the left of an old (smelly) owls nest!

2) 4b. Continue up the steep corner/groove using massive holds to belay at the top of the crag.

Climbers names : R. G. Greenwood, Miss K. A. Spinney
Date of ascent : 24/06/2006
Additional info: Some old pegs (who knows where they came from/ when they were placed!?!). All climbed onsight - it looked a lot more fun than Groove Slab and later, upon inspecting the guidebook, discovered it was not recorded (although it has possibly been climbed before). No known repeats.

Submitted by : Colin Wells
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag : Craig y Tonnau
Date of ascent : 05/05/2008
Route Name : Ysgol Fwsoglyd
Length/grade/stars : 15m; Hard Difficult; 1
Climbers : Colin Wells, Mark Leah
Start location:
As for original Meirionnydd guide approach/descent instructions

Pitch descriptions:
Start approximately 3m to the left of Dentist's Slab beneath a crackline  which superficially appears to be discouragingly mossy but which in fact conceals a plethora of clean hidden holds. Romp up the steep ladder of enormous jugs directly to the top.

Additional info:
Onsight ground-up
Submitted by : Mark Leah
Area : Meirionnydd
Crag : Craig y Tonnau
Date of ascent : 05/05/2008
Route Name : Llech Fudur
Length/grade/stars : 12m; Very Difficult
Climbers : Mark Leah, Colin Wells
Start location:
As for original Meirionnydd guide approach/descent instructions

Pitch descriptions:
At the far left end of the crag, not far from the descent, is a broken scoop with a short slab above. Climb this, passing the scoop on the left or right before climbing the slab to the top.

Additional info:
Onsight, ground-up