Pitch description:
1 80ft 4c Gain the ramp and climb it to a decent runner at 50ft. Continue to a stance below overhangs.
2 40ft 5a Follow the ramp to another ledge (old abseil gear) and continue steeply in the same line to the top.

Pitch description:
Traverse right for 30-40m till below a distinctive corner line - belay below it. Climb steeply past a big spike to reach the corner, which is followed to the obvious leftward exit.

Pitch description:
Rib traverse towards Hells Mouth for 100ft till below an obvious break in the large roof. Climb straight up through the break and the groove and slabs above.

Pitch description:
A good route with fine positions, but you do have to hunt for protection on pitch 2.
1 60ft 4c Move up and climb the right-facing corner then bear right to belay on the big ramp.
2 80ft 4c Above is an open bay below a large overhang. Gain this from the left, move right beneath the roof then climb the wall above via some good cracks to reach easier ground.

Additional info:
Climbed in the wet – not recommended at Cilan!

Pitch description:
Climb a shallow groove to a horizontal break, move right and up a series of more pronounced grooves to the top.

Additional info:
Generally a low-angled and stratified cliff but the rock is sound, there are good belays all along the clifftop and no scary slopes above the climbs. Amazingly for Cilan, a good area for beginners! On the tip of the headland is an easy descent to sea level then traversing southwards (away from Hells Mouth) takes one beneath many climbable lines, many of which have been done. As it swings into a shallow zawn/corner the cliff gets more impressive and consists of a barrier of overhangs above a big ramp dipping down rightwards to the sea. There are numerous ways to gain the ramp from V Diff to VS (40ft).

Pitch description:
From the start of the buttress proper move up R for a few ft then traverse L across a steep orange wall to large holds. Gain the shallow cracks on the left and climb steeply past a hollow block (light touch) to a welcome resting ledge. Launch around the arête to another hollow block then climb the tricky final arête to a massive nest and easier ground. Belay block (long tape) higher up.

Additional info:
This is the massive headland bounding Hells Mouth to the west. It is owned by the National Trust. Ask permission to park at the NT farm at Penarfynydd (GR 219267). For Bytilith (GR 224263) head left (east) along the path behind the farmyard. Cross a stile then descend the slope to a small cove and point (marked ‘cave’ on the map). It is possible to climb down the end of the point and traverse to the boulders exposed below the cliff at low tide, but easier to abseil. The dominant feature of the crag is an overhanging prow rising above a broken ramp (which gives a way up the cliff at HS).
The rock is metamorphosed sandstone, sometimes snappy but quite hard and strong in the main. Nesting restriction from April 1st to July 31st.

Pitch description:
1 80 ft 5b Follow the crack then move right and up to a large ledge.
2 60ft 5a Move right and take the best line on the upper slab (thin cracks).

Additional info:
From the NT Farm turn right (SW) along the path beside the farmyard till the path reaches the coast and rounds the tip of the headland. The first crags, Rugged Rocks, are huge jumbled slabs of rough weathered sandstone. It is possible to scramble to the base of the main mass from either side, and there are no nesting restrictions. Beyond Rugged Rocks is The Syncline, a steeply-dipping band of lighter-coloured rock with several big overhangs. It is only slightly tidal at its lowest end. Descend cautiously on a slight rib of grass and rock and traverse to the base of the cliff (which is restricted from April 1st to July 31st).

Additional info:
See above.

Start location:
An exciting first excursion on to the main part of the cliff. Start beneath the wall left of all the overhangs.

Pitch description:
Climb to the base of a shallow groove near the edge of the main face. Traverse right to gain a thin crack at an orange patch and follow the rightward-trending weakness to the top.

Additional info:
Climbed after failing on just about every other line on the crag!

Pitch description:
Climb the groove directly above the start of Cripple Creek to a small roof, then swing L and up the steep wall to a resting ledge. Follow the open groove above to some breaks, continue direct then swing R to a horn and a solid exit.

Pitch description:
1 50ft 5a Up corner for 15ft, gain the ledge on the L then move up L to another ledge. Follow a break up R-wards to belay below the big overhangs.
2 50ft 5b Traverse L to the rib, pull past the bulge then follow the diagonal break R-wards to belay (with care) in the niche.
3 35ft 5b Climb steeply up L to better holds on the final wall. Poor belay near edge or way back on the R.

Pitch description:
Climb the grooves till you can break R and climb the rib before moving back L to a sloping shelf below the crack. Follow the crack - steep. Poor belay just L on the cliff edge (stake would be better).

Pitch description:
Climb the crack and continue to a strange bar of rock giving a (dubious) natural thread. Traverse L to the start of the R-ward rising ramp and follow this for 15ft before stepping up to some rounded grooves leading to the top. Multiple belays advisible.

Pitch description:
Route takes the stepped groove trending leftwards above the cave. Follow the line, making strenuous moves between good holds, finally gaining a rest position at 70ft above a shelf. Move L-wards below the final overhang and press on to good finishing holds. Spike belays above.

Pitch description:
1 40ft 4b Climb a groove in the crest to a luxury belay at the shallow cave.
2 120ft 5b Trend easily L-wards to ledges then bear R up a line of shallow grooves and steep bands, finishing via a cracked corner.

Pitch description:
Climb the groove on the R side of the nose and continue to a band of ledges. Step L and climb through a steeper band before trending R till just below the belay-less grass slope. Traverse 25ft R to good ledges & belays.

Pitch description:
1 80ft 5a Climb the initial rib to a ledge then head up and R across the wall to shaly ledges. Climb a short shale groove to a shelf on the left then continue on better rock to a line of shattered ledges leading L-wards for 20ft to a stance at a poised block. Belays above.
2 80ft 5b Climb past an old peg into a depression and follow this to an overhang. Traverse R to a small exposed ledge; move back L to another ledge then swing R into a crack leading to the top.

Pitch description:
Boulder to the crack, climb to the top of the flake then step up and make a tricky mantel on to a narrow ledge running off L. Follow cracks in the open corner to an unstable finish.

Pitch description:
Climb the initial wall to the obvious corner crack, up this to a ledge below a second 'layback' crack. Follow this for 15ft then climb diagonally L across the face, selecting holds with care, to finish on the arête. 50m ropes reach the fence.

Pitch description:
Takes a groove line in the shallow buttress 30m L of Shifty.

Additional info:
In trainers & no harness!

Pitch description:
Up the grass ramp as for AG to below the short groove forming the lower part of the line. Place high gear then pull into the groove from the R and climb it to ledges - hard. Cracks lead to the main groove where sustained bridging past a dubious flake gains holds on the R arête to finish.

Pitch description:
Start easily, place a bunch of gear then blast up the crack, throwing in gear at intervals, to big holds in a niche. Step L and finish in a corner. Stake belay above.

Pitch description:
1 45ft Climb 25ft to the top of a pillar then move down R behind an oak tree to belay at a clean cut corner.
2 75ft 6a Climb the corner to a ledge then follow the R-trending crack with increasing excitement to a ledge and final steep wall. Fence belay.

Pitch description:
1 140ft 5a Follow a L-trending weakness up various grooves and ledges till after a diversion on the R it leads to a large belay ledge L of an open bay.
2 160ft 5a Serious. Move up R into a groove, climb it then traverse L to some corners formed by massive detached blocks. Above these, break L into a shallow gully. Climb this and the evil ground above to the top. Ingenuity needed to belay (and to make it this far).

Pitch description:
1 50ft 4a Climb the little stepped corner then walk up the glacis to belay at its top.
2 150ft 5b Deal with a short wall then traverse the long grassy shelf to its far end (big cam). Pull up on to the wall, move R then climb fairly directly, trending R a bit to finish. Ascend slopes to gorse/improvised stake belay where it flattens.

Pitch description:
1 50ft 5a Climb slabby rock to a grass ledge on the L then trend R to belay below the line of overhangs.
2 90ft 5c Move up, traverse R beneath smooth rock then step up and traverse back L to reach an obvious block. Climb up and R-wards to a projecting flake in the overhang, pull through and go straight up the steep final wall. Belays back on an outcrop.