Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Rob Greenwood
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Smurf Zawn
Date of ascent : 28/08/06
Route Name : Spinney's Alternative to Intimidation
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5a/b
Climbers : R. G. Greenwood, K. A. Spinney
Start location:
Descend as for Smurf, Green Light, and Girdle etc... but instead of going into the zawn walk left (facing
out to sea) along a narrowing gangway. The route starts approximately 5-ish metres before the end of
the gangway beneath an area of steep rock.
Pitch descriptions:
1) 5a/b. 25m. Boulder up on huge, yet slightly suspect, holds to attain a comfortable rest (hard
bit over - rambling adventure begins!). Move up and rightwards round the rib and continue round
the corner to traverse horizontally along the obvious hand/foot rail. Belay below the obvious
possibly detached flake and corner crack.
2) 4c. 15m. Ascend the corner on good jams until you can crawl ontop of the block of the corner crack
beneath the final intimidating roof. Once established ontop of the block things are much less intimidating
and a fun heel hook rockover leads to the top. Belay well back.
Additional info: Onsight. No known repeats - I don't know why anyone would seriously want to!!! Great
fun at the time but by no means a 3 star classic - meanders its way around the bits of rock that
looked the most fun on that part of the cliff! |
Submitted by : Trefor ROBERTS
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Rhoscolyn
Date of ascent : 26th July 2005
Route Name : Daedalus
Length/grade/stars : E1 5a 5a ** 35m
Climbers : Trefor Roberts, Rhys Hughes.
Start location:
Start in the obvious corner right of the Icarus flake start.
Pitch descriptions:
Essentially a direct version of Icarus. Well worth doing as the climbing is more consistent
and exposed than the original line.
Pitch 1 - 22m (5a)
Climb up the corner to a ledge on the right of a precarious looking block. Move up left
and then right (awkward) to the bottom of an obvious narrow red ramp. Follow this
to the stance at the bottom of the final Icarus pitch.
Pitch 2 - 15m (5a)
Follow the corner of Icarus pitch 2
Additional info: Lead on-sight (no pre-inspection or cleaning) Repeated 30th October 2006
(Trefor Roberts, Iwan Roberts) |
Submitted by : Andy Lole
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Flytrap Area
Date of ascent : 14/08/2006
Route Name : In the Next Room
Length/grade/stars : 50m, E3 4a, 5c, 5b, **
Climbers : Andy Lole, Ben Anderson
Start location:
Approach as for Flytrap.Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1. 12m 4a
Climb the first pitch of Flytrap.
Pitch 2. 12m 5c
Climb diagonally out leftwards through the overhung cave
above the belay ledge. Pull into the crack above and traverse left
to the ledge above the chock stone (Flytrap belay end of pitch 3).
Belay at the left hand end.
Pitch 3. 25m 5b
Traverse left along the folded cracks leading from the
bottom of the belay ledge into the hanging groove between Arachnid
and Arachnid variation. Climb the groove and belay on the ledge at
its top.
Additional info: Onsight. Andy Lole lead all pitches. |
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/08/04)
Route Name : Straight and Narrow
Length/grade/stars : 30m HVS 4c
Climbers : M.Gutteridge, C.Sullivan
Start location:
Obvious long narrow slab in the zawn behind Grimper.
Route described is next to Stormy Monday.
Pitch descriptions:
Straight and Narrow HVS 4c 30m.
Climbs the centre of the slab right of Stormy
Monday. Take the narrow crack to the overlap which
is breached at a notch. Climb straight up the centre
of the slab above. There is a surprising amount of
(poor) gear but a rope for the top is advised.
Additional info:
Safety rope at the top not used on the first ascent. |
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : The Seamed Wall
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS 4c
Climbers : J.Martin, M.Gutteridge.
Start location:
Start at the virtually non-tidal ledge at the foot
of Prat in the Flat.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner for 6m then break out left onto the
steep wall. Traverse left to reach the right
slanting groove and follow it to the top.
Zig-Zag Slab VS 4c 24m.
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the
Flat. Climb up the corner past the first overlap to
reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this
rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up
and left to finish up the right facing hanging
corner.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).
Between Zig-Zag Slab and Icameisaurus is a corner
with an obvious cave.
Who Needs Range West? VS 4c 25m.
Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left
of the cave. Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round
a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the
deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to
finish up the steep quartz wall.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).
Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs VS 4c 20m.
Start at the entrance of the cave left of
Icameisaurus just above the barnacle line. Pull onto
the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards
then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap
through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull
steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow
this to the top and belay well back.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).
Additional info:
Stake belays well back. |
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : Zig-Zag Slab
Length/grade/stars : 24m VS 4c
Climbers : M.Gutteridge, J.Martin.
Start location:
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the
Flat.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach
the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards
until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left
to finish up the right facing hanging corner.
Additional info:
Belay well back. |
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : Who Needs Range West?
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 4c
Climbers : J.Martin, M.Gutteridge.
Start location:
Between Prat in the Flat and Icameosaurus is an
obvious cave. Start at the bottom of a the ramp
round to the left of the cave.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge
above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply
featured wall above and through an overlap to finish
up the steep quartz wall.
Additional info:
Belay well back. |
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS 4c
Climbers : M.Gutteridge, J.Martin.
Start location:
Between Prat in the Flat and Icameosaurus is an
obvious cave. Start at the entrance of the cave
just above the barnacle line.
Pitch descriptions:
Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib
rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take
the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and
pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete.
Follow this to the top.
Additional info:
Belay well back. |
Submitted by : Dave Brown
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Rhoscolyn, Llawder
Date of ascent : 23/6/07
Route Name : Lacking Testicular Stature
Length/grade/stars : E4 6a *
Climbers : Dave Brown, Neil Thomas, Max Falkirk
Start location:
Left hand end of wall. Approach as for The Wild
Rover.
Pitch descriptions:
34m Climb directly up the arête to the right of
Mainlining to finish up the end of El Dorado.
Bold and sustained on lower section, with some poor
rock. (Don't try to crimp the white stuff)
Apologies if already claimed.
Additional info:
no fixed gear. |
Submitted by : Nick Gough
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Mousetrap Zawn, (a traverse
Between the lighthouse steps approach & the bridge)
Date of ascent : 26/05/1970
Route Name : Linkage
Length/grade/stars : About 550ft, VS
Climbers : N Gough, D Bland (alt leads)
Start location:
Start from near the foot of Hysteresis. The route
is possible at all states of the tide, with the
usual caveats!
Pitch descriptions:
1. 120ft.Traverse diagonally leftwards to a
comfortable stance about 50ft above the sea.
2. 120ft. Continue horizontally along the obvious
line. Descend a short corner, traverse left again,
then climb 10ft to an unpleasant stance. (It's
possible to traverse directly all the way).
3. 140ft. Move around the corner on doubtful rock &
continue more easily to a large stance.
4. 60ft. Descend the ramp into the small zawn.
5. 70ft. Go around the zawn & walk onto a good
stance at an iron eye-bolt below an overhanging
chimney.
6. 60ft. Climb the short steep chimney & follow
the diagonal fault up to the bridge.
Additional info:
Dredged this up from notes in an old climbing
diary.....don't remember it being terrifying enough
to mention it before! |
Submitted by : Gary Smith
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Hollyhead Mountain
Date of ascent : 11/3/07
Route Name : Sisters Crack
Length/grade/stars : Single Pitch - 26m. E2 5b/c *
Climbers : Gary Smith, Mark Hellewell, Fran McNicol
Start location:
Between Echoes (E3 6a) and Bruvers (HVS 5a) is a
prominent crack in a bulge. Start directly below
crack in overhanging scoop. Relief (E2 5c??) misses
the point by climbing 2m up the crack then
diagonally left to the arete, stepping round and
avoiding the bulge.
Pitch descriptions:
Take the obvious line directly through the crack
(bulge). After a boulder start (good friend), pull
strenuously through the bulge (5c??) (excellent
runner) and climb directly up the headwall above
finishing on RH arete to good ledge (Belay near
Bruvers).
Worth a star compared to Echoes and 'Relief'!
Additional info:
I think this may have been done; if it hasn't it
should have been. I forwarded info to (New) team
doing Gogarth and they have no record.
Photo diagram passed to Pete's Eats Logbook |
Submitted by : David Durkan
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Holyhead Mountain/Ramp B
Date of ascent : Summer 2007
Route Name : Puffin Shuffle
Length/grade/stars : 75ft. HVS.
Climbers : David Durkan
Start location:
Left side/edge up front of buttress. Bit contrived
in line, but varied, interesting moves.
Pitch descriptions:
Up to steep wall, with desperate move into slabby
groove on left side of buttress (5c), easy up to
shallow groove, follow this to giant handhold on
right edge, continue up with hands on the right edge
and feet on right wall of Candlestick - fall not
recommended.
Additional info:
Solo, led with back rope - good runners to just
over half height. |
Submitted by : Tristan Peers
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Porth-Y GaranTristan has climbed in this
area for years yet there appears to be no mention of
the crag north of Rhoscolyn in the Guidebook or
other sources.
Click to
download (pdf 687KB) a Map, access information and
photo-diagrams. |
