Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Dai Lampard
Area : Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
Crag : Cloggy / Far East Lower
Date of ascent : July 1985
Route Name : Seated Start
Length/grade/stars : 220ft E5 6b,6a
Climbers : Dai Lampard, Geoff Hibbert
Start location:
The route takes the much eyed snaking "S" groove
between Gormod and Land of Hope and Glory and
offers climbing as good as anything on the
cliff. Very sustained and fairly serious-
exceptionally so if the large hold snaps off
before you clip the peg!
Pitch descriptions:
1. 30ft Climb easily up to a luxurious belay
directly below the curving groove.
2. 120ft. 6b Climb up the crack behind the belay
and go boldly up the steep wall to below the
roof. Awkward runner placement in a crack.
Grasp the large (movable) hold above and using
it and a hand jam on the left clip a peg
runner high above. Invert the hand jam and
layback carefully onto the large hold to attain
a standing position in the base of the groove.
Peg runner. Prospects now take a turn for the
worse as you contemplate the back and footing
necessary to reach the enticing slot 15ft
above. Eventually it does arrive and once
gained the climbing eases somewhat. A move or
two leftwards under some small roofs at the
top of the groove gains the belay below the next
big groove.
3. 70ft. 6a. Gain the innocuous crack on the
left and climb it with great difficulty to a
good hold. Arrange gear and move up and across
rightwards into the main groove. A series of
difficult and committing moves lead to a final
steep wall and a superbly positioned grassy
belay. Abseil off ( 60m ropes)
Additional info:
Take 7 rock / tat to abseil from unless you want
to descend the walls of the gulley - not nice. |
Submitted by : Dai Lampard
Area : Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
Crag : Cloggy / Far East Lower
Date of ascent : July 1985
Route Name : Gormod
Length/grade/stars : 220ft E5 Unclassified and
6b
Climbers : Paul Jenkinson, Dai Lampard
Start location:
The anathematous aid points have been dispensed
with.
The first pitch description in the new guide is
wrong - absolute utter tottering death on a stick.
Best to approach from the left and head up the
shorter groove to the overhang.
Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 2.28m . 6b Traverse left across the smooth
gangway to short groove - very poor peg runner (
probably useless as it seems to have shattered the
rock) Poor protection / micro wires provide the
only comfort. A very difficult and committing series
of irreversible moves gains easier ground and a
good big peg. Much more amenable climbing follows up
the groove until the final difficult move.
Additional info:
Take 7 rock / tat to abseil from unless you want to
descend the walls of the gulley - not nice. |
