Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Kevin Bridges
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 27/01/2007
Route Name : Gumbo Variations
Length/grade/stars : 12m, E3 5b
Climbers : Kevin Bridges
Start location:
Face 10m right of Gymslip
Pitch descriptions:
The blank wall to the right of pitch 1a - the
variation start to Tin Drum. Climb the wall
direct. No protection.
Additional info:
Solo |
Submitted by : Alex Barrows
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Eagle Rock
Date of ascent : 16/03/2007
Route Name : The Holly and the Eddie
Length/grade/stars : 18m, E2 5c, 0 stars
Climbers : A Barrows, M Tomlinson
Start location:
Start between Gift Tolkien and The Gnome King.
Pitch descriptions:
Just as pointless and eliminate as it looks - the
section of rock between Gift Tolkien and The Gnome
King avoiding using the cracks either side for holds
or gear. Easy climbing leads to the short, vertical
sheet of rock (RP 1, RP 4 just below) where a couple
of slightly tricky and very reachy moves will
deposit you on the small ledge above. More easy
climbing leads to tree belays. Very escapable,
harder for the short.Additional info:
Lead after brief toproping. Quite possibly
(probably?) done before but not considered worthy of
reporting or inclusion in the guidebook. It was
quite fun anyway though! |
Submitted by : Josh Rose
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Shatter
Cave Area
Date of ascent : 06/05/2007
Route Name : Where's Blagdon?
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS
Climbers : Josh Rose, Tom Dixon
Start location:
Climb either Back Off or Backing Up to the belay
tree at the top of these routes.
Pitch descriptions:
20m, 4b. From the belay tree at the top of Back
Off/Backing Up, carry on up to the left, clambering
carefully over a rubble strewn ledge after about 3m.
Climb the centre of the slab above. Small wire
runners in the first half, run out at the top.
Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated |
Submitted by : Josh Rose
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Withyhill Cave Area
Date of ascent : 21/03/2007
Route Name : Standing on the Shoulders of Morons
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VD
Climbers : Josh Rose, Megan Sommerville
Start location:
Climb Standing on the Shoulders of Moles (if you're
brave enough!) to the belay trees on the rubble
strewn ledge.
Pitch descriptions:
20m Extremely run out with only one piece of
protection in the whole pitch. From the belay trees
at the top of Standing on the Shoulders of Moles,
move up leftwards towards some stacked blocks and a
small tree. 10m above the ledge you'll find your
protection, in a vertical crack, make sure you have
a size 0.5 cam for it. Extend well, and move back
down the small ledge you're standing on to a small
hanging block, go over this and up rightwards
towards, and then along a gently sloping grassy ramp
which leads to the top. Belay from trees at the top.
Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated. Most of Standing on the
Shoulders of Moles and part of the rubble strewn
ledge fell down as Megan led it, had Josh not dived
out of the way when the ledge collapsed, the route
would have been marred by a trip to the local A & E! |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge
Date of ascent : 12/08/2007
Route Name : The Outlook is Rosy
Length/grade/stars : 18m, HVD, *
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott
Start location:
Start at the toe of the buttress, just to the left
of a complex buddleia bush.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb readily to the base of a groove that splits
the arête and then delicately up the groove and the
arête beyond to the base of a red wall (escape
possible here). Move slightly left before climbing
the cracked
arête readily to the top.
The best belay is the keep fence, which well back
from the top of the route. The best descent is to
follow the keep fence and its trend line to the back
of the bay, where a descent is made readily back to
the SSB.
Additional info:
This route is a welcome addition to this grade of
climbing in the Gorge, and with use will soon become
a popular outing. It takes the obvious clean-looking
slabby right arête of SSB just before the fence,
well to the right of Wormlands. As the route is
poorly protected in the lower and middle sections it
requires steadiness from the leader, though the rock
is splendidly rough and sound in those sections. |
Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry - Conning tower area
Date of ascent : 07/10/2007
Route Name : Thick Black Lips
Length/grade/stars : 25m. HVS 5b. one star.
Climbers : Mark Stephen Davies, Sarah Coombes
Start location:
The obvious hanging slab left of The Conning Tower.Start a little way up the muddy gully on the
left at a block below a small cave entrance.
Pitch descriptions:
Interesting, solid, well protected climbing. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by
a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab
to gain the obvious R-L rising diagonal crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty
rockover, utilising an obvious side pull gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest
of the slab on good edges and finish up the slightly loose arête.
Additional info:
Prior clean on abseil
Led clean
Second ascent and grade confirmed by Brian Mullen and Clare Lindley 07/10/2007 |
Submitted by : Richard Hall
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Pete\'s
Wall
Date of ascent : 02/11/2007
Route Name : The Radco Checkout Girl
Length/grade/stars : 35m, VS 4c
Climbers : Richard Hall, Mike Kann
Start location:
Pete's Wall is the obvious brown wall opposite
Rob's Slab.
Pitch descriptions:
Start below the overhang just right of the centre
of the wall. Climb straight up on loose rock and
then though the overhang via the niche at it\'s
right hand end. Continue up to a tree before making
a rising traverse leftwards crossing the horizontal
breaks. Swing round the large flake and finish up on
loose ground.
Additional info:
On-sight. No known repeats. |
Submitted by : Kevin Bridges
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 02/02/2008
Route Name : Starless And Bible Black
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E5 6b *
Climbers : Kevin Bridges
Start location:
Climbs the wall between The Beat and Small Or
Nothing
Pitch descriptions:
Sufficiently independent to give the most serious
climb on this section of rock where failure is not
an option.
Follow Small Or Nothing to the sapling. Pull up
onto the black wall and hand traverse the ramp left
and up into the centre of the wall. Using a tiny
finger flake on the left, balance up and pass a down
pointing flake before making a committing stretch
for the good ledge and Slurp ramp above.
A finish up Lost Atoms maintains the momentum.
Additional info:
Solo |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Portishead Quarry - The Sanctuary
Date of ascent : 7th January 2007
Route Name : Heavy Cloud; Lots of Rain
Length/grade/stars : 8 metres, F6a+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Martin Crocker (both
led)
Start location:
The route lies on the small isolated buttress
directly opposite the main crag (i.e. on the extreme
right as you enter the quarry).
Pitch descriptions:
A fun little number that proves steeper than it
looks (and with Sting in its tale). Three bolt
runners to double ring abseil station. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
27 new
Routes - download pdf 43KB |
