New Routes - Tremadog

Comments Submitted by : Iwan Arfon Jones
Area : Tremadog

Sailor Bob's Furry Spru Stool F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Look back in Anchor F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Cantre'r Gwaelod F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Antur Madog F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

O Captain, My Captain F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Shiver me Timbers F.A. IA Jones, C Jordan Originally climbed on-sight at E2 5c

Avast Behind F.A. C Jordan

Fflat Huw Puw F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Cat o'Nine Tails F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Frog Noise F.A. IA Jones, L Scheltinga (AL) very probably climbed before

Park Life variation 2a is 4b

Emotional Crisis getting to the tree is the crux and serious if not pre-clipped!

Submitted by : Martin Crook
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Llyn
Date of ascent : 06/2010
Route name : Bullvine
Length/grade/stars : 60ft, e2 5b
Climbers : Martin Crook, Richard Cuttler
Start location:
5 min walk behind the butress containing Powersnob

Pitch descriptions:
60ft, 5b, climb the central groove line left of Honary Limestone which overrhangs in its upper section to give excellent climbing on flat jugs.

Submitted by : Mike Goldthorp
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig Bwlch-y-Moch, Vector Buttress
Date of ascent : 24/03/2011
Route name : The Philtrum
Length/grade/stars : 22m, E6, 1
Climbers : Mike Goldthorp, Duncan Campbell
Start location:
Either belay from Grim Wall tree-belay and climb the Snake slab or belay as for The Snake stance before stepping left into the pod. From the ledge go direct up the steep corner past the large tooth and up & rightwards through the roof to a small triangular footledge, then climb the delicate overhanging groove above (old peg) to a sloping shelf and a final mantle for glory!

Pitch descriptions:
Single 22 meter pitch, tech 6b.

Additional info:
Old peg halfway up groove. Climbed in headpoint style placing gear on lead.

Submitted by : Nigel Noyes - Comment
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Castell
Route name : Mensor (P 96)

Comment:
The description and topo slightly misleading.There appears to be two pinnacles- split by a crack. The right hand one seems to be the one that one steps off heading left then up through the break. Its obvious when you get up there but puzzling looking from below with the guide book - particularly as the topo shows the route heading round right of the overhang - that way looks very hard !

Trying to figure things out by reading the adjoining route 'Sorry Sally' confuses further ! "Wide crack splitting a flake " ? There was a corner crack about 1 metre right of Mensor but could not figure out where Sorry Sally went.

As others have commented on UK climbing the 'walk out' from Mensor horrible. Best to abseil but the current tat looks dubious. Great route though !

Submitted by : Nigel Noyes - Comment
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Lliwedd Bychan
Route name : God Knows (P 294)

Comment:
Has S 4B. We had this route as diff, V Diff at the most - unless one is making a perversely hard start right of centre ?

Submitted by : Nigel Noyes - Comment
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Lliwedd Bychan
Route name : Eastern Route (P 295)

Comment:
Severe yes but the route has a number of dubious rocks and gear placements. We would not have given this a star.

Submitted by : Nigel Noyes - Comment
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Y Graig Wen
Route name : Chairmans Folly (P 297)

Comment:
There are several possible starts - I did one left of the slightly left of the topo line that allows one to start putting the 1st gear in under the slanting right leading diagonal. Just before the mid height bulge the gear runs out and the rock/placements dubious.To go directly up as the topo shows looked 4c/5a, intimidating without solid protection and other climbers chalk/marks had stopped a few metres back ! I continued right round the bulge ( instead of going directly up) on mossy/suspect rock and no gear to then step back on to the top of the bulge. Still no gear in sight and an unnerving move with a massive run out before easier ground. I guess if the rock had been sound it would have been less scary. My second didn't fancy the direct approach even on a top rope. My estimate is this route should be more like HVS 4c/poss 5a - with a warning for loose rock and scarce protection on crux.