New Routes - PembrokeNote: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk Can you identify a sea cliff in an old photograph? - Click to enter a competition WARNING - Freedom of Choice (Chapel Cove) -
HVS 5b in the 1996 guide. WARNING - Status of routes at Mother Carey's
after rockfalls - June 2008 |
Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Please send comments to:
including Area, Crag and Route Name.
| Submitted by : Joe Squire Area : Pembroke Crag/Section : Bosheston Head South Face Route Name : Indecision Length, grade, stars : 100ft Hvs 5a Approach/Descent: Approach as for Warm Waves ledge. Pitch descriptions: Nice Exposed Climbing above the cave right of Warm Waves.Follow Warm Waves rib until level with the cave.Move up to an obvious juggy traverse line left above the cave follow this for a few feet until below a corner (exposed). Pull over the bulge into the corner follow this till a travers left across a spike slab under a small overhang can be made to the central corner and climb this in a fine position to the top. Climbers names : Joe Squire & Alan Richardson |
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Submitted by : Victoria Hayes Pitch descriptions: Start 10 feet left of block. Climb central crack of slab to break at half height. Traverse right to righthand crack (immediately left of block). Finish up this. Climbers names : Matt Smith, Vicky
Hayes |
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Submitted by : Mark Dancey Pitch descriptions: 2. California Girls Additional info: in situ sling lower off, no known repeats |
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Submitted by : Andy Lole Pitch descriptions: Additional info: Onsight |
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Submitted by : Andy Lole Pitch descriptions: Additional info: Onsight. Could be the first pitch of Akitivator88 but felt harder than E1 5b. |
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Submitted by : Andy Lole Pitch descriptions: Additional info: Onsight. Could be the first pitch of Akitivator88 but felt harder than E1 5b. |
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| Submitted by : Steve Newman Area : Pembroke part one [South Pembroke] Crag : Crystal slabs area [sea level buttress to the right of crystal block] Date of ascent : 09/04/07 Route Name : Freddies laces Length/grade/stars : 50 feet HVS 5a one star Climbers : Steve Newman,Jac Newman Start location: Approach as for crystal block, the route is on the next buttress to the left [looking landward] Pitch descriptions: 50 feet hvs 5a start at the bottom of the buttress climb direct to the overhang and climb the left trending crack to the top Additional info: none |
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| Submitted by : Alison Athroll Area : Pembroke Crag : Carreg-y-Barcud Date of ascent : 08/04/2007 Route Name : Be Calm Length/grade/stars : 70 ft, E1 5b Climbers : Alison Athroll, Ian Athroll Start location: Start as for A Head in the Clouds. Pitch descriptions: Climb up and traverse left to the square pocket of The Great Valerio. Continue along this until a thin rising diagonal (finger) crack line appears above. Climb up to this and follow to the crack of Be Brave. Finish as for Be Brave. This is a good option if you want to savour some of the delights of The Great Valerio but climbers on Metamorphosis prevent the complete outing. Additional info: On-sight. Repeated by other unknown party who were present at the crag at the time. |
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| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Cabin Door Date of ascent : 15/8/04 Route Name : Little Harden Length/grade/stars : 40ft, S Climbers : F Kenden, D Wright Start location: Right of Passing the Port and the arch to its right. Pitch descriptions: 1. 40ft 4a Up the wall, passing the overhang at three-quarters height by moving to the left arete, thence directly to the top. Additional info: None |
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| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Pen-y-Holt Bay Date of ascent : 13/11/04 Route Name : Here We Go Looby Loo Length/grade/stars : 100ft, HS Climbers : F Kenden, D Wright Start location: Starting at the seawards end of the west face, finds the easiest way up the face. Pitch descriptions: 1. 100ft 4a Move up then diagonally leftwards to the landward side of the face. After ascending the arete for a few moves, traverse horizontally rightwards beneath the coffin-shaped roof to regain the seawards arete and so the summit. Additional info: None |
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| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Greenham Common: East face Date of ascent : 26/8/96 Route Name : Atishoo, Atishoo Length/grade/stars : 70ft, E2 Climbers : D Wright, M Shelley Start location: Between Wilson’s Wobbler and Exterminate, Exterminate Pitch descriptions: 1. 70ft 5a From the foot of the rock shield gain the obvious crack on the left-hand side of the shield and continue up the looser headwall. Microwires useful. ‘The gap it fills was probably preferable to the end-result’. Additional info: None |
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| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Flimston Date of ascent : 10/10/99 Route Name : Chicane - In the Interim Guide Page 111 (see download) Length/grade/stars : 200ft, E1, * Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: Between It’s a Fair Cop and Speed Trap Pitch descriptions: Finds the easiest route up this section of cliff in three contrasting pitches. Committing (on an incoming tide) and loose at the top. 1. 80ft 5a As It’s a Fair Cop, taking stance as soon as roof is passed. 2. 60ft 5a Traverse right across the slab, step right, gain the obvious layback crack above on the left, then more easily right, scrunching to gain a ledge with good Friend anchors. 3. 60ft 5a The groove above leads to hanging blocks, trending slightly rightwards to more loose blocks, but good anchors at the top. Additional info: None |
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| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Perimeter Bays Date of ascent : 4/10/97 Route Name : The Men in Black - In the Interim Guide Page 116 (see download) Length/grade/stars : 80ft, MXS/VS Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: On the wall immediately east of the grey slab of On the Catwalk. Approach by abseil to a large non-tidal ledge close to the right arete. Pitch descriptions: 1. 80ft 4a From a groove directly above the ledge, continue easily before keeping somewhat left of the right arete on deteriorating rock, bottling out right to finish. Additional info: None |
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| Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Perimeter Bays Date of ascent : 5/10/97 Route Name : Life's Rich Pageant - In the Interim Guide Page 116 (see download) Length/grade/stars : 130ft, XS/E2 Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: On the east-facing wall beneath the boundary fence, just inside Range West. Abseil to a comfortable non-tidal ledge, 20 feet from the left-bounding arete, leaving a rope available for a top anchor. Pitch descriptions: 1. 130ft 5a Towards the right end of the ledge, take the apparently steep corner to pass the small roof on its right and continue up a loose groove in the same direction. After the crux section at about 80 feet, trend left until a solid slab is finally reached and climbed left-wards, before exiting up the obvious corner above. Additional info: None |
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| Submitted by : Adam Wainwright Area : Pembroke Crag : Hollow Caves Bay Date of ascent : 29/07/07 Route Name : Great Central Hole, Right Hand Length/grade/stars : E4 50m Climbers : A. Wainwright, D. Pickford Start location: Climbs a leftward trending line of grooves following the apex of the groove of the arch into the right hand (looking in from the sea) hole, adjacent to the big hole of Hollow Caves Bay (see diagram). Start below the low point of the main arch at its eastern end and opposite the pillar containing Sam Simeone (Charlie Woodburns 8a). Pitch descriptions: 1. 5b, 25m. Follow an easy line up and left to gain slabs and shallow grooves following the left corner side of the main arch which leads into a deep hole / cave where a belay can be constructed out of poor rock in the darkness. 2. 5c, 15m. From the cave make a difficult traverse left on and then just below the crozzly rock in the roof of the arch itself. This leads diagonally left to daylight and an easy groove in the exit bay of the left hand hole of central hole. Follow the gully to a huge chock stone belay. 3. 10m. Scramble out to the top. Additional info:
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| Pembroke Deep Water Soloing (DWS) The notes below
refer to the Rockfax Deep Water Guide by Mike
Robertson -
click for details |
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| Submitted by : Ben Anderson Area : Pembroke South Crag : Bosherston Head, East Face Date of ascent : 26/08/07 Route Name : Oggly Boggly Length/grade/stars : 40ft, HVS 5b, 0 Climbers : Ben Anderson, Andy Parker Start location: Useful escape when you've just been educated on Star Wars. The route climbs juggy cracks east of the cave on the Southern end of the east face; use an East face/Star Wars abseil at low-mid tide and traverse South as far as you can. Much better and more solid than it looks (which isn't saying much!) Pitch descriptions: 1. 40ft 5b. Climb the parallel cracks, exiting right to avoid deteriorating rock. Additional info: Clean onsight. |
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| Submitted by : Sarah Clough Area : Pembroke North, Porth-y-Fynnon Crag : The DIY Pinnacles Introduction:
Approach: Routes: For all these of these, descend down the ridge on top of the left arete. The sea stack closest to the grey slab can be climbed direct up the broken cracks of "Jigsaw" at Mod (8m), descend off either side although the right (facing land) is easiest.
Climbers: Note - we have graded them in accordance with what we are used to, rather than in accordance with the other routes in the area, which all seem a little soft touch. For example, Hammer VD and Drill D are harder than Gemini VD at Initiation Slabs. |
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| Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : South Pembroke Crag : Stennis Head Date of ascent : 16/09/05 Route Name : The Stennis Inquisition Length/grade/stars : E2 5c * Climbers : Nick Taylor, Ian Milward Start location: To the right of Loco Dementia and just left of the sea-trench at the start of Stennis Pillar is a right facing corner. Pitch description:
Additional info: |
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| Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : North Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn Crag Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: One mile north-east of Llangranog village (13 miles East of Cardigan) is a small peninsula facing the island of Ynys Lochtyn. Approach from Llangranog either along the coast path or a higher level path (slightly quicker), approx 15-20 mins. The crag is on the left hand headland (facing out to sea). Abseil descent to spacious ledges between the 2 buttresses, or onto a rock below the main face (exposed at mid-tide). Routes described Left to
right, beginning on the main face: |
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| Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : North Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn Crag Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: One mile north-east of Llangranog village (13 miles East of Cardigan) is a small peninsula facing the island of Ynys Lochtyn. Approach from Llangranog either along the coast path or a higher level path (slightly quicker), approx 15-20 mins. The crag is on the left hand headland (facing out to sea). Access for the these routes is by abseil to ledges between the two buttresses, or an easy traverse above sea level. Routes: Routes - To the right
is a deep rock pool and wide ledges separating the
two buttresses: Routes
- The right hand buttress is NARAYAN BUTTRESS.
Belays may require some ingenuity. |
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| Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : North Pembroke Crag : Penclegyr, Porthgain area Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: To the right of "Middle of the Road" looking out is n easy angled ramp. Several easy routes start from ledges at the base of this. Abseil or down-solo. These routes were reported before (with a sketch topo) but not included in the CC guide, I assumed this was because the descriptions had either been lost or they were dismissed as unworthy for inclusion. They were more recently mentioned in an article in Climber magazine by Jon Horscroft, believing they had done first ascents (they were a little more generous with grades). Routes -
described left to right: |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator
Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : Virusss Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Follow good holds and ledges rightwards above the roof, then directly above, easy angled rock. |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator
Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : Dolphinss Length/grade/stars : 30m Very Difficult Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Climb direct from the same starting point up the left-hand side of the slab. |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator
Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : Borderline Time-Wasster Length/grade/stars : 30m Difficult Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: The ramp-groove which you abseiled down. Pitch descriptions: Escape route probably only necessary if you're injured or something. |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator
Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : A Scanner Darkly Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Initially hard moves on small holds, (thin crackline, small footholds) lead up and right, from the ledge to an easy groove-line. |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator
Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : No Sympathy for an Alcoholic Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Direct up good steep lower section, to a corner above, rightwards at the top to escape. |
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| Submitted by : James Davis Area : Pembroke Crag : St. David's Head (South Butress) Date of ascent : 26/12/2007 Route Name : Oyon's Boxing Gully Length/grade/stars : 15m Mod Climbers : J. Davis, J. Bowyer Start location: Start at the base of the gully to the right of Rakish Crack. Pitch descriptions: Follow the unexceptional scramble up the gully. |
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| Submitted by : John H Bull Area : Pembroke North Crag : Pencarnan Slabs/first zawn Date of ascent : 21 May 2008 Route Name : Locum Notion Length/grade/stars : 90 feet, HVS 5a* Climbers : John H Bull Start location: Approach from the seaward end of the slab, and descend to belay in a groove to the left of the main slab, which is split by a halfway ledge. Pitch descriptions: Climb the diagonal quartz crack to a half-way ledge (a second quartz crack to the right can also be climbed at about the same standard). Climb the centre of the smooth brown slab past a fine horizontal crack (microwires) to good holds. Grass clump belays. Additional info: Rope lead solo, on-sight |
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| Submitted by : John H Bull Area : Pembroke North Crag : Pencarnan Slabs/first zawn Date of ascent : 21 May 2008 Route Name : Freelance Armstrong Length/grade/stars : 100 feet, HVS 5a* Climbers : John H Bull Start location: Approach from the seaward end of the slab, and descend to belay in a groove to the left of the main slab, which is split by a halfway ledge. Pitch descriptions: Traverse just above sea level to a vague rib. Climb the rib to a V-shaped ledge, then more easily to the halfway ledge and protection. Climb the right-hand side of the smooth brown slab directly, past a small overlap. Grass clump belays. Additional info: Rope lead solo, onsight |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Area : Range West Crag : Greenham Common Date of ascent : 19 Sep 1998 Route Name : Broughton Power Length/grade/stars : 36m, E8 6c Climbers : Ian Vickersand Gaz Parry Start location: Starts 3m right of Fearless, just right of a flake at 5m. Pitch descriptions: Climb up to a "good hold" right of the flake and place a d wire up and right. From the good hold move up and left to the flake, and pull up to a break. Move up and right (crucial Rock#1) then back left to flake / overlap. Step left to red jugs, step back right and thin moves lead to jugs and old in-situ wire, move up and left to finish up Fearless. Additional info: On sight. |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Area : Mount Sion Centre Date of ascent : 29 & 30 Sep 1998 Route Name : The Land That Time Forgot Length/grade/stars : 190m, E5 Climbers : Trevor Messiah and I parnell Start location: "Trevor and Ian's Traverse" in the 2002 Supplement. Pitch descriptions: 1. 40m 5c Follow Overdraft/ Backdraft to the top break and then "boldly go where no man has gone before", leftwards for 20m to a hanging belay. 2. 60m 6a "One Small Step for Man, one Giant Leap for Messiah". Follow the downward trending double break for ever, crossing the top of the Land of The Gaints cave and belaying at a good ledge on Planet of the Apes. 3. 35m 6a (1 pt rest) "Space Odessey". The continuation traverse follows incredibly steeply to a hanging belay at a black streak 8m below the big roof. 4. 45m 6b (2 pt rest) "The Asteroid Belt". Climb up to the big roof and then "push forward the frontiers of space exploration" for 10m to a small hand ledge and shallow niche, rock up onto this to reach for the break above. This leads through several time dimensions to a wide foot ledge below a long thin roof and step down to belay. Being lowered off the pitch will result in a swim. 5. 10m 5c "Return to Earth" Swing left to reach the "blocks of doom". Mantle these to reach the red rubble scoop and a leftwards exit as for The Scorcher. Additional info: |
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| Submitted by : Nigel Barry Area : Pembroke Crag : Becks Point West Date of ascent : 14/12/2008 Route name : I am not a Number Length/grade/stars : 25m VD Climbers : Tracey Rodford - Aspirant Member, Nigel Barry - Member number 1492 Start location: Approach as Becks Ridge Pitch descriptions: Climbs the obvious thin crack 4m right of Becks Ridge |
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Comment submitted by Nigel Barry on Dead Reckoning below: Pitch 1 is Pitch 1 of Birdman of
Alcatraz (1996 guide) |
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| Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke Crag : Saddle Head Main Cliff Date of ascent : 04 Sep 2004 Route name : Dead Reckoning Length/grade/stars : approx 200 ft, Hard Severe Climbers : Philip Biglands, David Robinson Start location: Start just left of the arete to the left of Houlet's Chimney (guidebook page 480). Approached by abseil. Pitch descriptions: 1 (4a) Climb up right to the arete, then easily up the right side to a large ledge and small cave, below half height. 2 (_) Climb the groove at the left side of the ledge and at its top step left and finish directly up the face. Additional info: Alternate lead. Climbed by mistake, in good style, with the exception of having abseiled down it first. Other new routes are apparent in this area in the supplement, but these are possibly further left. |
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| Submitted by : Philip Biglands *
Comment submitted by Nigel Barry Area : Pembroke Crag : St Govan's Head Date of ascent : 05 Sep 2004 Route name : Standing on a Fox * Is a new route Length/grade/stars : approx 100 ft, HVS Climbers : Philip Biglands, David Robinson Start location: Start a few feet left of Kinvig. Pitch descriptions: 1 (5a) Climb easily up left to below the ledge on Stacked Against. Gain a crack on the right and follow it to the top. Additional info: Climbed onsight in good style. This seemed an obvious route and we were suprised it wasn't in the guide. Named after an incident on the St Petrox camp site, when a fox raided Dave's tent. The fox was not harmed, indeed it seemed quite happy to stay! |
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| Submitted by : Matt Harding Area : Pembroke Crag : Buckspool Down Date of ascent : 11/04/09 Route name : Direct Finish Length/grade/stars : E15b Climbers : Matt Harding, Tim Elson Start location: Abseil down Space Buttress East Face, head 30m east and start up Direct Start E15b in CC guide. Takes a direct line up the slab above this start. Pitch descriptions: 1. 5b Climbs the grey slab between an HVS and a VS (sorry no guide to hand), above Direct Start (E1). Climb Direct Start through the bulges to the break at the base of the slab, where Direct Start traverses left to join its parent route. Climb straight up by delicate moves to the break above, then continue to reach the shallow crack on the left-hand side of the slab. Follow this stepping right near the top to reach the vegetated ledge and finish up the wide crack. Additional info: Onsight. Might share the thin crack section with the HVS - unsure from guide description. |
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| Submitted by : Steve Reed Area : Pembroke Crag : Battleship Buttress Date of ascent : 03/05/2009 Route name : Sonic Length/grade/stars : 90ft HS 4c Climbers : Steve Reed, Phil Kelly Start location: Abseil to non-tidal ledge. The obvious corner and capping roof between 'To Fondle a Hedgehog' and 'Spiky Norman'. Pitch descriptions: Climb the corner, bridge out make a long reach and pull directly over the overhang. Climb directly up the spiky wall above, and straight over the steep wall at the top. Additional info: Onsight. Repeated the same day.(and surely climbed before) |
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Submitted by : Jon Roberts Start location: Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Nigel Barry CC Guide Coordinator Pembroke Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Mike Pollitt Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : John H Bull Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : John H Bull Pitch descriptions: 2. From the south end, easy ledges gain a steep wall where superb holds lead almost to the same stopper rib (after about 100 ft), then the holds run out again. Fall in trying to attempt the link, or reverse out (F6a). I know this sounds like a failed attempt at one route (it is), but the holds just disappear so what can you do. Anyway, it's really good either way! |
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Submitted by : Simon Needham Pitch description: |
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Submitted by : Tony Rees Start location: below the arête opposite the start of rising damp Pitch description: Additional info: Onsight |
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Submitted by : Nigel Barry - First ascent update Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Nigel Barry - First ascent update Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Jon Roberts Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Comment on the following three routes submitted by Nigel Barry - Co-ordinating Editor Pembroke Guidebooks Unfair Dismissal, Unloved and Unwanted all have been ascended at an earlier date and full details will appear in Pembroke Range East Guidebook in early 2011 |
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Submitted by : Harold Walmsley- See Comment above Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Harold Walmsley - See Comment above Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Harold Walmsley - See Comment above Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : James Kay Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
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Submitted by : Dave Linnett Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
DIY Pinnacles - Front View
DIY Pinnacles - Side View
DIY Pinnacles - Front View Topo
DIY Pinnacles - Side View Topo