New Routes - Pembroke

Submitted by : Victoria Hayes
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag/Section : Square Bay - Seaward Wall
Route Name : Barney Likes to Climb
Length, grade, stars : 30 feet, Vs 4c, 0 Stars
Approach/Descent:
As for \"one\", \"two\" and \"three\", abseil down right side of block. Start of route is at base of central crack on the left(facing in) of the block (opposite side of the block to 1,2 and 3).

Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch, 3 feet

Start 10 feet left of block. Climb central crack of slab to break at half height. Traverse right to righthand crack (immediately left of block). Finish up this.

Climbers names : Matt Smith, Vicky Hayes
Date of ascent : 16/4/2006
Additional info: On sight

The notes below refer to the Rockfax Deep Water Guide by Mike Robertson - click for details

New routes submitted by: Adam Wainwright

1. Lydstep, Skomar Arch West

Water Gel 6b+, S1
Project marked as route 2 on P172 of Mike Robertsons guide.
FA. A. Wainwright 30/07/07

2. Lydstep, Cool Man Chu Wall

Eustasy 7a, S2
Project marked as route 1 on P174 of DWS guide.
A very good route. Traverse in from the left along highish water mark. Beware of a rock behind you on this traverse. Climb into the chimney (rest) before swinging round onto jugs on the hanging slab and following your nose rightwards and up to easier ground.
FA. A. Wainwright 30/07/07

Introduction:
The DIY Pinnacles can be seen off the tip of grey slab - there are two triangular sea stacks accessible at low tide, the second of which is spit into two slabs separated by a gully. These two stacks offer 5 routes, all short but pleasant and on solid rock, and worth checking out if you fancy a small adventure.  See Front and side views below.

DIY Pinnacles - Front View

DIY Pinnacles - Side View

Approach:
To access the routes, either abseil down grey slab and walk across tidal ledges to the the stacks, or scramble round from purple slab. The ledges at the base of the stacks are accessible for 3 hours either side of low tide, the scramble round from purple slab is accessible for about 1/2 hour either side of low tide.

To escape, it is best to scramble back round to purple slab (so save the lowest point of the tide for this part) and climb out. It is also possible to climb out grey slab if you are competent at that grade giving yourself longer on the routes, or prusik up your ab rope if you get stuck.

Routes:
The front purple coloured slab on the second stack yields:
"Chisel", a pleasant Mod (10m *) - traverse left to the base of the straight diagonal crack and climb it directly, then scramble off the back.

The back slab yields three routes:
"Screwdriver" VD (10m) up the left arete finishing at the top of the left hand crack
"Hammer" VD (5m) up the short left hand crack
"Drill" Diff (8m) up the right hand crack.

For all these of these, descend down the ridge on top of the left arete. The sea stack closest to the grey slab can be climbed direct up the broken cracks of "Jigsaw" at Mod (8m), descend off either side although the right (facing land) is easiest.

DIY Pinnacles - Front View Topo

DIY Pinnacles - Side View Topo

Climbers:
"Chisel" M Sarah Clough (solo) (11th Aug 2007)
"Screwdriver" VD Daniel Money (solo) (11th Aug 2007)
"Hammer" VD Sarah Clough, Daniel Money (11th Aug 2007)
"Drill" D Daniel Money, Sarah Clough (11th Aug 2007)
"Jigsaw" M Sarah Clough (solo) (11th Aug 2007)

Note - we have graded them in accordance with what we are used to, rather than in accordance with the other routes in the area, which all seem a little soft touch. For example, Hammer VD and Drill D are harder than Gemini VD at Initiation Slabs.

Routes described Left to right, beginning on the main face:
Countdown to Bilko   VS 4b
16m. Climb the prominent shallow corner high on the left hand side of the face.
(F.A. Nick Taylor 6.12.98 on-sight solo)

Keith Murray   HS 4b *
18m. Follow a quarz vein diagonally left to the left side of an overlap. Pull through this in a fine position.
(F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98)

E Double   V Diff
18m. From the alcove just above the belay rock climb the vague blunt rib direct, stepping left to pull through the overhang. Superb juggy holds.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98)

Redman   V Diff
18m. Follow a crack diagonally rightwards for 3 metres, then climbthe smoother slabby rock above using small positive holds. A pleasant climb.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98)  

Routes:
Slug Matador   V Diff
20m. Start below the right arête of Main Buttress at sea level. Follow the arête rightwards to a sloping ramp. Step back left across the arête and follow the right hand side of the main slab to the top.
(F.A. Nick Taylor 8.8.98 on-sight solo)

Halo of Flies   HVS 5a *
18m. A leaning hanging corner 3 metres right is formed between steeply inclined layers of strata. Climb this to a large ledge passing a thread. Step left and pull through a notch in the overhang to easier ground.
(F.A. Nick Taylor  8.8.98)

Sisnupangma   E2 5b **
16m. Battle up the steep and strenuous roof crack which splits the full height of the overhang to the right, gained directly from below (or by stepping right from the ledge on "Halo of Flies"). Finish up the rib above. High in the grade,  perhaps E3.  (F.A. Nick Taylor 6.12.98)

Routes - To the right is a deep rock pool and wide ledges separating the two buttresses:
Jim Bowen's Love-child    Severe
14m. Climb a rib on the back wall, move rightwards to a crack leading to a ledge. Follow the cleft back leftwards to the top.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 6.12.98)

Stanley Unwin   V Diff
14m. Pleasant climbey slabbo to the left handy sidum Narayan Buttress.
(F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 5.12.98)

Routes - The right hand buttress is NARAYAN BUTTRESS. Belays may require some ingenuity.
Hobo Chang Ba   HVS 4c
12m. Start on the left side of the steep wall, juggy, to a difficult move through a small overhang. Continue direct pulling over the next overhang to gain a groove/scoop high on the left side of the nose. Easily up this.
(F.A. Nick Taylor 8.8.98)

Resham Firiri   HVS 4c *
16m. Good positions, low in the grade. Follow Hobo Chang Ba to the first overlap, move rightwards below this then up to below the main overhang. Climb diagonally rightwards beneath this, finishing up a short corner.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98)

Narayan Ghale   E1 5a *
15m. Start in the centre of the face below the nose of the prominent overhang. Steep but easy climbing directly up to this. Pull through leftwards to a small foothold on the lip, then a precarious move back right to a sloping footledge. Continue direct up the blunt arete. (F.A. Nick Taylor 8.8.98)

Paan Ko Paat   E1 5b
 15m. Just right, pull over a bulge then up and right to gain the corner which bounds the right hand side of the face. Follow this to an exit leftwards and finish shared with Resham Firiri. (F.A. Nick Taylor 5.12.98)

Routes - described left to right:
Alcoholic   V Diff
Direct from ledges aiming for  a corner capped by an overhang, passed on the right side.
(F.A. Nick Taylor  9.8.98 on-sight solo) 

A Scanner Darkly   Severe
Difficult moves on small holds follow a thin crack up and right into an easier groove-line, left of the descent ramp. (F.A. Nick Taylor 9.8.98 on-sight solo)
 
Borderline   Mod/Diff  The ramp/groove down which you abseil. (F.A. Nick Taylor 9.8.98 solo)

Dolphins  V Diff
Climb the left hand side of the slab, which is to the right of the descent ramp.
(F.A. Nick Taylor 9.8.98 on-sight solo)

Additional info:
Climbed and gardened on-sight over two days, a fall from the crux on day one resulted in Trevor being lowered into the sea. On day 2 they prussiced back to the end of P3.

Submitted by : Jon Roberts
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : St Davids Head, South Face
Date of ascent : 24/05/2009
Route name : Yo-Yo
Length/grade/stars : 50ft, E2 5b
Climbers : Jon Roberts, Mark Mearns

Start location:
East of 'The Rake' is a compact overhanging wall, devoid of obvious cracks. The route starts up the centre of this wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the middle of this wall, stepping left underneath the roof at 25ft onto a ledge on the arete. Step back right onto the lip of the roof and continue up the groove above. Protection is poor, but the crux overhanging wall can be protected with small friends.

Additional info:
On Sight. Size 0.5 camalot very useful

Submitted by : Mike Pollitt
Area : Pembroke - Range West
Crag : Cabin Door Mainland
Date of ascent : 25/07/09
Route name : Tumblin' Dice
Length/grade/stars : 24m, E1 5a, 0 stars.
Climbers : Mike Pollitt, Si Lyons, Gareth Billings.
Start location:
Abseil from stake above the slabs. Start below the right-hand side of the central slab. Belay from the ledge a few metres up if the tide is in.

Pitch descriptions:
Balance up the shallow corner between the central and right slabs, moving leftwards past a crumbly rectangular pod at two-thirds height to finish with difficulty. The quality of the rock, which deteriorates dramatically with height, means that protection is dubious at best and the inevitable falling debris makes this a dangerous route for all involved.

Additional info:
Led on sight. Si's nose was broken and forehead badly cut by a large falling rock. He continued to belay with blood spurting from his head! This route (and surely the others on the mainland slabs) definitely deserves a black warning spot as the rock is very poor.

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Lochtyn Penclegyr
Date of ascent : 8 August 09
Route name : 1. Merciless Ribbing
Length/grade/stars : 90 feet, S, 1 star
Climbers : John H Bull
Start location:
Scramble down to sea-level ledges (low tide) bounding the left (looking out) side of the crag. Move left around the rib bounding thethe

Pitch descriptions:
Move left around the rib and ascend the slab to a ledge. Tricky moves lead left to a narrow groove - up this to easier climbing above.

Additional info:
Also repeated Borderline (ModDiff) and Dolphins (V Diff), and can confirm the grades.

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : Pembroke - North (page 95)
Crag : Ogof Dwfn Penclegyr
Date of ascent : 8 August 09
Route name : Tunnel of Slough
Length/grade/stars : 250+ feet, DWS S0, F5+ or 6a, 1 star
Climbers : John H Bull
Start location:
Between Ogof Dwfn and the neck of land leading to Penclegyr is a narrow through tunnelzawn. Cross over the tunnel and, well past the entrances scramble down to either seaward end at lowish tide.

Pitch descriptions:
1. From the north end, gain the tunnel and traverse in (F5+) almost at sea level for 200+ feet, until stumped by a slabby rib where the holds disappear. Either reverse the route or take a line about 10ft higher (slightly easier). Good solid rock, and lots of surprising jugs on either line.

2. From the south end, easy ledges gain a steep wall where superb holds lead almost to the same stopper rib (after about 100 ft), then the holds run out again. Fall in trying to attempt the link, or reverse out (F6a). I know this sounds like a failed attempt at one route (it is), but the holds just disappear so what can you do. Anyway, it's really good either way!

Submitted by : Simon Needham
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Mowing Word (E Face)
Date of ascent : 12 September 09
Route : Deflection
Length/grade/stars : 25 metres, HS 4b/c
Climbers : Simon Needham, Denise Forster Start Location:
Start about 5m left of Illusion Corner below twin opposing grooves, the right-hand of which contains a pale block /spike.

Pitch description:
Climb to the block - excellent hold behind it - and make steep moves to gain a horizontal break. Continue slightly left to a mantel onto a ledge to the left below easier-angled rock. Go up then step left into a scoop groove and finish up this past blocks.

Submitted by : Jon Roberts
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : St Davids Head, South Face
Date of ascent : 11/04/10
Route name : Funnybone
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E3 5c
Climbers : Jon Roberts, Nigel Francis, Dawn Roberts
Start location:
Approach down a jagged arete to the east (inland side) of the South face crag. The route starts on a ledge at the far eastern side of the compact overhanging wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Start beneath the quartz vein and step left onto a diagonal ramp to gain good nut placements. Step right up to the small roof and pull through, continuing directly up the steep slab above.

Additional info:
Top Roped prior to first ascent. All gear placed on the lead.

Submitted by : James Kay
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Beck's Point
Date of ascent : 08/06/2010
Route name : You Told Me This Was a Diff...
Length/grade/stars : 15m, E1 5a, 0 stars
Climbers : James Kay
Start location:
The arête (Beck's Arête)

Pitch descriptions:
Climbed on the left hand side of the arête only gives interesting climbing to the top with some funky moves. It is however somewhat eliminate. Resist the temptation to bridge into the groove.

Additional info:
First ascent soloed.

Submitted by : Dave Linnett
Area : Pembroke - Range West
Crag : Mount Sion East: 40-Foot Wall
Date of ascent : 03.07.10
Route name : Pussy Galore
Length/grade/stars : 12m, Severe 4a, *
Climbers : Dave Linnett, Rob Horler
Start location:
The slabby right wall between the corner of Pussy Chap (S) and the arête of Route Galore (HS).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the slabby wall direct (micros useful) to a ledge. Finish up the continuation wall

Additional info:
On-sight lead

Submitted by : Simon Needham
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Mowing Word East Face
Date of ascent : 17/09/2010
Route name : Nutmeg
Length/grade/stars : 30m, HVS, 1 star
Climbers : Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start location:
A right-to-left rising line on the wall taken by The Corner and Pilgrim's Chorus. Builds up to an exposed finish. Start at a ledge in the base of Square Chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
5a. Trend left up the wall to the ledge on Corner Crack, below the corner. Move up the corner for about 10 feet, then follow a line of holds left to the large spike block in the crack of Pilgrim's Chorus. Continue traversing left following a vague break then make a move up to gain a good crack (this is part of a crack system which slants left up the left side of this wall). Continue directly to the top.

Additional info:
On sight. We also climbed a more direct start to Pilgrim's Chorus than the current guide suggests, making it more independent of Corner Crack; climb up to a large ledge on the left, then take a steep shallow groove with a hard starting move to the left end of the ledge at 25 ft. Continue as per the description in the guide. Possibly 5a, and may just about bump the overall grade for the route up to HVS. Pilgrim's Chorus is not loose as the guide suggests - in fact it is a fine pitch, worth a star, as is Corner Crack.

Submitted by : Gwyn Evans
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Lydstep Cavern Area
Date of ascent : 11/08/2010
Route name : Tidal Race (direct finish)
Length/grade/stars : 12m S1 F6b
Climbers : Julian Lines
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
After climbing the right hand pillar of Tidal Race and where the original line goes left to join beyond Backpacking, launch up through the roofs above on huge holds and veer rightwards to finish

Additional info:
DWS

Submitted by : Gwyn Evans
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Skomar Arch Area
Date of ascent : not known
Route name : Excalibur(?)
Length/grade/stars : S0 F8a
Climbers : Neil Gresham
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
Neil Gresham has climbed through the roof on the east side of the arch as depicted as the project in the DWS guide.

Submitted by : Steve Quinton
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : St. Govan's Head (Descent Chimney area)
Date of ascent : 26/02/2011
Route name : Last Light
Length/grade/stars : 20m E1 5b [0]
Climbers : Steve Quinton, Robin Neath
Start location:
Start as for Just Before Dark

Pitch descriptions:
1. 5b Climb up towards Exit Corner, as for Just Before Dark, then enter the slight groove line between that route and Rock a Block - follow the line direct to the top.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Pembroke - Range East Volume 4
Crag : Huntsmans Leap
Date of ascent : xx/04/2011
Route name : Dawn to Dusk - direct start
Length/grade/stars : E8 6c
Climbers : James Pearson
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:

Additional info:
Repeated Neil Mawson

Submitted by : Iwan A Jones
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Mother Careys
Date of ascent : 27/05/2011
Route name : Blood, Sweat and Fears
Length/grade/stars : Length - as for Joyous Guard: E1/2 5b,
Climbers : IA Jones, K Rowe, C Evans
Start location:
Usual Mother Carey approach

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for Joyous Guard. Climb up into the caveniche but move left its Left arête. Swing out onto the steep wall, to the right of the Rock Idol corner, and follow the wall just left of the arete with interest until it is possible to move right towards the lower part of the wide crack of Joyous Guard [just below its crux].

Additional info:
Probably done before but a good little alternative nevertheless. A variation start to Joyous Guard, done in error of the correct route as I could not follow the Rockfax guide due to visual dyslexia and the fact my memory was telling me to go left rather than right.

Submitted by : Gwyn Evans
Area : Pembroke - Range East (Vol 3) Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay - not in the new guide
Crag : Breakfast Zawn
Date of ascent : 15/09/2007
Route name :Odyssea (deep water solo)
Length/grade/stars : F7b
Climbers : A Wainwright
Start location:
Under lip pf Traverse Tea

Pitch descriptions:
Takes the hanging inner arch line underneath the lip of Traverse Tea. Start as for Traverse Tea but cross the crinkly wall leftwards, around a square arête onto the hanging slab. Follow this leftwards until the jugs can be reached on the apex of the zawn and a junction with Coffee Anan. Finish up this.

Submitted by : Max Biden
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Craig Carn Porth Llong
Date of ascent : Easter 2002
Route name : Make It Up
Length/grade/stars : 58m, HVS (5a), 1
Climbers : Ken Forsythe, Max Biden (Alt)
Start location:
About half-way down the slabs of the normal descent, as if heading for routes that start at sea level, there is a prominent square-cut gullychimney cutting back into the crag. There is short hanging ramp in the bottom right-hand wall of this, with an attractive slabby arete above. Start beneath the hanging groove.

Pitch descriptions:
1. (5a) Gain the base of the ramp and climb it until it is possible to pull round the arete on the right and so gain the slab. Climb this direct until a short horizontal traverse right leads to a stance below a niche at the base of the next tier. 2. (4c) Enter the niche above the belay and move immediately right onto the arete. Continue traversing diagonally rightwards across hanging slabs towards the base of a narrow flying arete. Climb this to a good ledge. 3. (4a) Step across the gully fault on the right to gain a system of slabby grooves and weave your way up these to the top of the crag.

Additional info:
Climbed as something to do (and which turned out worthwhile) when retreating from the start of the routes below, which had turned out to be still wet from recent rain. This was a few ago and the memory is unsure as to whether this is the name of the crag - it could just possibly have been Trwyn Llwyd! However, the square-cut gully and general line was very obvious to us as we trekked back up the descent slabs from the wet rock below.

Submitted by : Gwyn Evans
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : The Castle, Spink Wall
Date of ascent : 10/08/2002
Route name : Warren McSporran
Length/grade/stars : 60ft (18m), HS 4b
Climbers : Nick Eaton, Warwick Barton
Start location:
Start at the left end of the oblong block at the foot of Spink Wall

Pitch descriptions:
From the left end of the block traverse 6feet left to the slanting flake crack. Climb the wallabove to reach a crack which widens briefly at 25 feet. Continue up the emandering crack to the top

Additional info:
'The route is named in memeory of a friend'-Nick Eaton email comment from NE 'It is difficult to tell from the topo in the guidebook exactly the relationship between the two routes. From the descriptions it sounds like Sobers starts up the line of Warren McSporran and then maybe goes left, whereas WMcS goes straight up. Without a more detailed photo, or being at the crag, it is hard to tell. When I put up WMcS it seemed an obvious line to take'.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : The Castle, South-West Face
Date of ascent : 30/07/2011
Route name : Chernobyl
Length/grade/stars : 15m, VS 4b, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
None

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for ‘Black Russian’ but step left immediately and climb the centre of the smooth wall into a tiny corner. Step left and climb the rib until it is possible to step across the cleft to finish. Poor gear low down.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : The Castle, South-West Face
Date of ascent : 30/07/2011
Route name : Masterbrew
Length/grade/stars : 25m, VS 4c, 1
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
The large corner 4m right of ‘Between The Sheets’.

Pitch descriptions:
Start at low tide and climb the smooth chimney to easier ground. Continue up the twin cracks to the roof and pull out right onto a ledge, then finish straight up.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Rusty Walls, The Main Wall
Date of ascent : 01/08/2011
Route name : Cutlass
Length/grade/stars : 24m, HVS 5a, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Climbs the centre of the face traversed by ‘Peace Torque’ and ‘Scapegoat’.

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for ‘Scapegoat’, then climb a short crack to a junction with ‘Peace Torque’ at a niche. Move up and left and follow vague cracks through the bulge, then go easily up the slab to a ledge. Climb the overhung corner and twin cracks above to finish.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Rusty Walls, The Main Wall
Date of ascent : 02/08/2011
Route name : Moonbirds
Length/grade/stars : 25m, E23 5c, 1
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Takes the centre of the face between ‘Study Leave’ and ‘Swordswallower’.

Pitch descriptions:
Start at low tide on the ledges beneath the face, directly below a cave. Make a tricky move into the cave (harder for the short !) and continue up the cleft above until it closes, then traverse right for 1½m along a diagonal break. Climb the steep wall above on huge holds to a niche below the overhangs and pull through them on good but spaced holds. Climb the slab above to the overlap, step right and climb a slight groove through the bulge to a ledge. Finish up the stepped crack above to easy ground.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Blockhouse Buttress, East Face
Date of ascent : 04/08/2011
Route name : Pincushion
Length/grade/stars : 45m, E1 5b, 1
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Climbs the hanging slab, arete and wall between Keep On Trucking and Mother Trucker.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 27m 5b Start as for Keep On Trucking but at the first horizontal break bridge out right and make a tricky move onto the hanging slab.Traverse up and right to the widest part of the overlap and pull over with difficulty on viciously sharp holds, then traverse up and right again to the arete. Climb the arete, then straight up the pleasant wall to a ledge. pull over the bulge and belay on the terrace above.
2. 18m Climb easily to the top by whatever line takes your fancy.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Battleship Buttress West
Date of ascent : 05/08/2011
Route name : Richard
Length/grade/stars : 16m, VS 4c, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Start at a prominent crack 2m left of the pedestal in the middle of the ledge below the lower tier.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to a groove and follow this to a small roof on the left, then climb the slanting crack on the right to the halfway ledge.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Battleship Buttress West
Date of ascent : 05/08/2011
Route name : Angy
Length/grade/stars : 18m, S 4a, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Climbs into and up the lefthand side of the large recess between Bushbaby and Spotty Dog.

Pitch descriptions:
Start just right of Bushbaby where a crack runs up diagonally rightwards to the recess. Climb the crack into the recess, then go over the little roof in its upper lefthand corner and climb the groove above to the halfway ledge.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Battleship Buttress West
Date of ascent : 05/08/2011
Route name : Peter
Length/grade/stars : 40m, VS 5a, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Climbs into and up the righthand side of the large recess between Bushbaby and Spotty Dog, then takes a line on the right wall of the central buttress on the upper tier.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 18m 5a Startat the righthand end of the higher part of the ledge beneath the lower tire, just left of Spotty Dog. Climb the spiky wall to the bottom of the recess, then go up and right to the crack in the top righthand corner. Make a couple of hard moves up this to easy ground and a belay on the halfway ledge. A good pitch in its own right.
2. 22m 4b Step off the leaning block and climb straight up to the start of a ramp running diagonally rightwards up the wall above. Climb this to the top, taking care with the rock higher up. (This may cross or actually be ‘War Baby’ or ‘Going Steady’ ?).

Submitted by : Gwyn Evans - Comments by Elfyn Jones (BMC Cymru Access & Conservation Officer
Area : Pembroke - Range East Saddle Head to St Govan's
Crag : various (see comments below)
Route name : Hangover 77, Beast from …, Sunlover
Comments:
Info from Elfyn Jones (BMC Cymru Access and Conservation Officer) following a visit to 'road test' the new guidebooks.
Hangover 77 (hard for E1!)
Beast from the Undergrowth (only worth 2 now in my humble opinion).
Got a serious workout doing Sunlover at the end of a long day – it’s now quite a serious and hard start, most of the old good wire placements at the start have “blown” and I thought it felt harder than Tangerine Dream, and a real candidate for E4 6a, definitely much harder than Quiet Waters.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East Vol 4
Crag : Panzer Walls
Date of ascent : 26/08/2011
Route name : Panz People
Length/grade/stars : 27m, HVS, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Climbs the prominent chimney groove around the arête from Black Panzer. Abseil down the gully (as for Black Panzer) and belay on a triangular white ledge 3m below the band of roofs.

Pitch descriptions:
5a. From the ledge trend up and right to the overhangs, go up Black Panzer for a couple of metres, then traverse right around the arête and continue to the base of the chimney groove. Climb this to the top.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : The Castle, South-West Face
Date of ascent : 27/08/2011
Route name : Swizzle Stick
Length/grade/stars : 21m, Severe, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
Takes the centre of the slab between White Lady and Tequila Sunrise. Abseil down to high tide ledges as for White Lady.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the centre of the slab to the lefthand of two brown grooves. Go up this to a ledge and continue to a junction with Tequila Sunrise. Finish as for that route.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East
Crag : Bosherston Head, East Face
Date of ascent : 28/08/2011
Route name : Too West Street
Length/grade/stars : 25m, E2 or 3, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
This route is on the western side of the sea cave down and left (east) of the scramble descent used by Joybringer etc. It climbs out of the cave and gains the slim corner above its lefthand side. Abseil at low tide to ledges just above the sea on the western side of the cave entrance.

Pitch descriptions:
5c. Trend back up left on sculpted white rock to large black ledges (possible high tide start). Follow flakes up the wall left of the overhangs to a diagonal break, then step right to a ledge below the slim corner. Climb this with increasing difficulty to a steep finish on the left.

Additional info:
One or two loose holds near the top.

Submitted by : Tim Skinner
Area : Pembroke - Range East Vol 4
Crag : Bosherston Head, East Face
Date of ascent : 28/08/2011
Route name : There's A Blue One !
Length/grade/stars : 15m, HVS, 0
Climbers : Tim Skinner, Karen Vaughan
Start location:
This route is on the western side of the sea cave down and left (east) of the scramble descent used by Joybringer etc. It climbs the wall left of the cave, trending leftwards. Abseil or scramble to large black ledges left of the cave, about 10m above the sea.

Pitch descriptions:
5a. Follow flakes up the wall left of the overhangs to a diagonal break, move left up this for 2m, then pull over to a sloping ledge above the overlap. Go diagonally up and left to finish up a short overhanging corner.

Additional info:
Much more solid than it looks.

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Coastal Path Zawns
Date of ascent : 13/09/11
Route name : Hot Seat
Length/grade/stars : 80 feet, S
Climbers : Peter Biglands, Philip Biglands
Start location:
Abseil using anchors a long way back. A 60m rope may be needed.

Pitch descriptions:
The groove line to the left of The Chopper, moving right to finish up the last 10 feet of that route to avoid loose rock.

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Coastal Path Zawns
Date of ascent : 12/09/11
Route name : The Last Laugh
Length/grade/stars : 60 feet, HS
Climbers : Philip Biglands, Claire Biglands
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
Just right of The Lock is a series of cracks. Start in a recess below 2 chimneys. Climb up a ramp in the left hand chimney and step left onto a pedestal. Take the leaning wall above and finish on the left arête.

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Coastal Path Zawns
Date of ascent : 12/09/11
Route name : Bring me Sunshine
Length/grade/stars : 60 feet, HS 4a
Climbers : Philip Biglands, Claire Biglands
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
Back and foot up the chimney to the right of The Last Laugh (see above) onto a ledge. Continue up cracks in the corner on the right.

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Coastal Path Zawns
Date of ascent : 13/09/11
Route name : Cormorant Applause
Length/grade/stars : 60 feet, VS 4b
Climbers : Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
The wide crack to the right of Bring me Sunshine (see above) climbed using holds on the outside.

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Coastal Path Zawns
Date of ascent : 08/09/11
Route name : Life in the Old Fossil
Length/grade/stars : 40 feet, HVS 4c
Climbers : Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
About 20 feet right of Bring me Sunshine (see above) is an obvious quartz streaked slab. Start at a thin crack in the centre and climb up to follow the quartz streaks.

Submitted by : Ken McBride
Area : Pembroke - Stackpole & Lydstep
Crag : Jackdaw Point, Penally, Lydstep Bay to Tenby
Date of ascent : 18-12-2012
Route name : Chunky Bunky
Length/grade/stars : 80 Foot HVS 5a 1 star
Climbers : Ken McBride and Alison McBride
Start location:
Abseil as per access to rest of the slab. Starting form the mid slab belay of Central route, Below the pot hole in the slab at quarter height.

Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch. 80ft. Takes the blank looking wall left of Central Route and right of the Jackdaw. Stay left of the obvious pothole and climb directly up the slab. Move left to the crack and climb this to where it peeters out to an open half pipe and use the irregular edges if this to move up to a weak break and a poor crack left of the pot hole,small off-set. Move up again using various poor cracks to reach good horizontal breaks and the crazy paving of the upper part of the slab. The bottom of the slab is bold on the border HVSVS 4c5a, only two runners in the first 15 foot and no positive holds for either feet or hands.Through a section of HS 4b finishing HS 4a.

Additional info:
Ali and me went down at the weekend and climbed on the slab. I had seen the line previously whilst taking a friend out to get some easy sea cliff experience and top roped it having been soaked on Rusty Point by the incoming tide where Paul had been leading, as all left for day. Cannot find any reference to the line in Pembs Part Two,or on line. Have not named it as would assume that it has probably been climbed. Have a photo for clarification. Could you please assist in identifying this route so my wife can keep her log up dated. If confirmed as new route will name then. 1st time at this so sorry if a bit confused. Your help appreciated. Thank you - Ken

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Lochtyn Crag (Cardigan)
Date of ascent : 16/01/2012
Route name : Shale Sampler
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred metres left (looking out) of Narayan Buttress a flat-topped low promontory juts out into the sea (easily seen from the coast path!). Walk down the left (SW) side of the promontory to a sun-drenched grey slab gearing up spot 5 metres above the sea and surrounded by a wild, shale chaos! Traversing leftwards just above high tide level the first feature reached after 14 metres is a spiky groove leading to a niche below a roof ( the second roof from the right); start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the spiky groove to the niche and follow the ramp up leftwards to finish up a short crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Lochtyn Crag (Cardigan)
Date of ascent : 16/01/2012
Route name : Antur Fach
Length/grade/stars : 25m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Shale Sampler.

Pitch descriptions:
1 7m Traverse left to gain a recess below an overhanging grey groove, and excellent belays.
2 18m Follow a subsidiary groove on the left to an awkward exit. Gain a balcony below the blade-like roof, and walk leftwards along this to escape.

Additional info:
The name means "little adventure"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Lochtyn Crag (Cardigan)
Date of ascent : 17/01/2012
Route name : Lonesome Dwarf
Length/grade/stars : 25m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Countdown to Bilko at the left edge of the wall at a quartz line.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the quartz, then follow the rising flake line rightwards to finish up the right arete of the wall. Straightforward climbing in a marvellous situation!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Lochtyn Crag (Cardigan)
Date of ascent : 17/01/2012
Route name : Bilis Blowhole
Length/grade/stars : 21m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Sisnupangma at the far side of a rock pool.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a tricky step left into the slanting groove that leads up into the chimney-crack blowhole. Continue to a constriction, move up right, then swing back left into the chimney-crack and slither up to daylight.

Additional info:
Pen Bilis is the correct name for the crag! The routes Redman and Slug Matador were repeated--grades confirmed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Lochtyn Crag (Cardigan)
Date of ascent : 17/01/2012
Route name : Bica Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 14m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty-five metres right of Paan Ko Paat a spiky ridge marks the point where the crag changes direction through a right-angle, and opposite the left end of a rocky island; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the spiky ridge on huge holds, as befits the legendary local giant, Bica!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Porth-y-Ffynnon DIY Pinnacles
Date of ascent : 20/01/2012
Route name : Blackstuff
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres around and right of Drill at a black overhanging groove above a channel.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the groove to a large ledge; then finish up the loose cracks and blocks on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Porth-y-Ffynnon DIY Pinnacles
Date of ascent : 20/01/2012
Route name : Clipper
Length/grade/stars : 6m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite Blackstuff and 10 metres away is a third pinnacle with a small wall above a large ledge. Start at a crack on the left side of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Porth-y-Ffynnon DIY Pinnacles
Date of ascent : 20/01/2012
Route name : Wedge
Length/grade/stars : 6m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Clipper below the right arête of the world.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up just right of the arête, then the arête itself.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Porth-y-Ffynnon DIY Pinnacles
Date of ascent : 20/01/2012
Route name : Water Feature
Length/grade/stars : 9m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Wedge at a lower level.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracked wall. Starting from a refuge ledge, the compact wall just left gives the interesting Grouted (6m S 20.01.12).

Additional info:
Jigsaw, Hammer and Drill were all repeated--grades confirmed! Chisel repeated--suggest raise grade from M to D! Screwdriver repeated--suggest lowering grade VD to M! This is a nice area suitable for a pleasant adventure. However, the abseil stake at the top of the grey (Aquaplane) slab is in a very BAD state; as are the finishes of the two routes here!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Initiation Slabs
Date of ascent : 31/01/2012
Route name : Amster Jam
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Cormorant Front, on the wide ledges below the left flank of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move right and climb a steep wall rightwards to gain the left arête of the buttress; and follow this to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Initiation Slabs
Date of ascent : 31/01/2012
Route name : Hammy Hamster
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Cormorant Front.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain a jutting ledge, pull up a steep little wall and follow the crackline slightly leftwards to the top; very pleasant!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke - North
Crag : Initiation Slabs
Date of ascent : 31/01/2012
Route name : Gerbilation
Length/grade/stars : 17m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for The Gerbil.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Make the tricky, low rightwards traverse as for The Gerbil; then climb up the wall above and right to gain the fine, left-slanting groove. Follow this to a finish up the arête. A good climb; but the crux is still the entry traverse!