Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
New Guidebook published April 2010 |
Submitted by : Simon Cardy
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach, Little Buttress
Date of ascent : 22.05.2010
Route name : Two Door Cinema Club
Length/grade/stars : 43m, HVS
Climbers : Simon Cardy & Dave Basford.
Start location:
Takes the obvious curving crack line on a wall right of Little Buttress. Start near the right edge of the lower part of the Buttress.
Pitch descriptions:
1. 18m. Climb easily the wall and slab just to the left of the arête to a big ledge. Belay below a thin pencil line crack on the big ledge. 2. 25m 5a. Start up the wall below a pencil thin crack then move right where the crack closes and up a short groove below a short tongue of grass. Move back left, using the curving crack, to a finger crack and climb the short groove above to finish. Good threads belays up and left.
Additional info:
The decent arrow p186 in the new guide is too low. You can traverse off right(facing in)a bit higher and weave a way down below Doleman Buttress into West Gully. |
Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 25/6/2010
Route name : Shockwave.
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E6 6a,
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Dan Gibson.
Start location:
Approach as for the Afterburner wall on the skyline in the Ogwen valley.
Pitch descriptions:
20m. E6,6a. Start directly beneath the obvious right facing cornercave and the shark fin flake. This is between the start of Afterburner and Aftershock. Burl up into the cave where a headbody jam relieves the worrying burn already eminating in you're arms. Lean out of the cave and with the use of a crafty knee-bar, pinch the Shark-fin flake and move quickly to good holds at the top. Poor protection is arranged before meaty moves on big holds, and techy moves on little holds lead to a shallow left facing corner beneath a small roof. Protection is available although it is not the best. Big moves up into the crack system directly above give good protection before an arm melting sequence on layaways lead the lucky to a brilliant flake sytem on left for a few moves before the final pull for the top of the crag.
Additional info:
No fixed gear. RP's and a skyhook may ease passage. Climbed ground up after abseil inspection and a clean. |
Top: Nick on crux of Sonic Boom
Bottom: Nick on upper arête
© Nick Bullock |
Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Ogwen.
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 27/6/2010
Route name : Sonic Boom.
Length/grade/stars : 25 metres. E5 6a.
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Dan Gibson, Libby Peter
Start location:
Approach as for the description in the Ogwen Guide for the Mission Impossible Heart of Stone Wall. The route starts to the left of the Mission Impossible Wall at the super steep, juggy, lowest section of the crag reminiscent of Scimitar Ridge, directly beneath the flying arête which is obvious from the path on the left of the Mission Impossible Wall.
Pitch descriptions:
25 metre. E5 6a. Super steep start on massive holds directly beneath the overhanging arête. Good holds and good gear lead easily up to a no-hands rest on the right of the flying arête. Arrange bomb-proof protection while contemplating the wild position you are about to launch. Using the obvious massive flat foothold cut into the base of the arête, step out and using holds on either side of the arête climb it directly up the front for a few moves until a high rockover to small holds on the left give sanctuary. Unfortunately gear is not yet forthcoming and a few worrying arête moves back right lead to a grovel onto big sloping ledge and gear. Here we go again, wildly swing right to layaways on the upper arête which is followed all the way, via some gear and some resting ledges, on the right to the top.
Additional info:
A pretty amazing climb (if i say so myself) slightly reminiscent of other big mountain routes like The Axe, or the Great Arête. (ok, so maybe not as good!) Marred only by the very escapable top section of the arête. For the full effect climb the right of the arête all the way. |
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 Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 27/6/2010
Route name : Heatwave
Length/grade/stars : 18m. HVS. 5b.
Climbers : Dan Gibson, Libby Peter, Nick Bullock
Start location:
As for the Mission Impossible Heart of Stone Wall described in the new Ogwen Guidebook. On the left side of the Mission Impossible Wall is a wall split by a left to right crack. This wall faces at a 90 degree angle to the Mission Impossible Wall and has the very striking flying arête for its upper crest. The climb is approched by a step on the left of the Mission Impossible Wall.
Left: Libby seconding Heatwave © Nick Bullock
Pitch descriptions:
18 metre. HVS 5b. Climb the crack on good holds and with good gear in the crack and on either side.
Additional info:
Climbed and cleaned on sight by Dan Gibson |
Submitted by : Simon Needham
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig Yr Haul
Date of ascent : 10/04/2010
Route name : Spring Sun
Length/grade/stars : 12 m, VS, 1 star
Climbers : Denise Forster, Simon Needham
Start location:
Left of the corner of Jack Horner and right of the slabby tower is a short, square cracked wall rising from a large flat ledge. Start at a crack near the right edge of this.
Pitch descriptions:
1 12m 4c5a Climb the crack to narrow ledges then step left to the thin crack system. Ascend this with interest, to finish over a capping block. Belay here, then scramble off to finish. A more direct start and a left hand finish via another crack are also possible.
Additional info:
On sight. some gardening by the second ! |
Submitted by : Simon Needham
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Tryfan E Face, Central Buttress
Date of ascent : 08/08/2010
Route name : Juxtaposed
Length/grade/stars : 40 m, HS, 1 star
Climbers : Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start location:
About half way between South Gully and the start of Overlapping Rib Route there is a long arete bounded on the right by a narrow groove. The climb is based on this arete. Start directly below it.
Pitch descriptions:
1 40m 4b Gain the slab which bounds the arete on the left by a delicate move to reach better holds, then move right to gain the arete. Climb this with interest past two low relief spikes, then step left to follow a crack (which avoids a jutting block) to a ledge left of a bulge in the arete. Pull rightwards over the bulge using a spike to regain the arete, and finish up a final narrow section to a ledge just left of Overlapping Rib Route etc.. The section up the arete past the spikes can be avoided by the slab to it's left, and this probably lowers the grade to S.
Additional info:
On sight. It seems improbable this hasn't been climbed before, but there is no sign of any wear. |
Submitted by : Simon Needham
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Penglog Buttress (Upper Left)
Date of ascent : 08/08/2010
Route name : Brillo Pad
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS
Climbers : Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start location:
About level with the top of Penglog Buttress and roughly 100 yards to the left (north) is an obvious slabby face. The left side presents a smooth slab with a hairline crack starting about 5 metres up. Start at the base of a slabby rib just right of this slab.
Pitch descriptions:
1 20m 4c Go up the slabby rib - thin to start - to better holds and a break. It is now possible to step left onto the left hand slab and gain the line of the hairline crack. Follow this on small holds in very good rough rock, to easy climbing and the top.
Additional info:
On sight. A direct start to the hairline crack would be an interesting (protectionless?) challenge. |
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Submitted by : Gareth Cook
Area : Milestone Area
Crag : between Creigiau'r Dena and Milestone Buttress
A:
Date of ascent : 25/07/10
Route name : Deception Arête
Length/grade/stars : 8m, VS 4c
Climbers : G Cook, J Sullivan, 25/7/10, onsight
Start location:
Start at the crack in the toe of the arête
Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crack rightwards to the base of the large crack system in the arete. Climb this, swinging left to a large hold on the face and pull over the top.
B:
Date of ascent : 25/07/10
Route name : “That Fine Rain”
Length/grade/stars : 15m, VS 4c
Climbers : G Cook, J Sullivan, 25/7/10, onsight
Start location:
Start at the base of the detached slab.
Pitch descriptions:
Boldly climb the slab, step right at the top to the base of 2 parallel cracks. Fix small wires and climb the cracks, finish direct up the slab above.
C:
Date of ascent : 25/07/10
Route name : Prudence
Length/grade/stars : 16m, S 4a
Climbers : G Cook, J Sullivan, 25/7/10, onsight
Start location:
Start at the base of the rough crack.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to a good ledge. Climb the crack on the right of the ledge, to the left of the jutting block, then continue up the corner crack above. |
Submitted by : Alex Mason
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Suicide Wall
Date of ascent : 25/07/2011
Route name : Decomposed
Length/grade/stars : 30m, E6 6b, 2
Climbers : Alex Mason, Duncan Campbell
Start location:
Start directly beneath the groove of Y Meirwon Byw.
Pitch descriptions:
6b, 30m: Pull up and right into the shallow hanging groove, place the solitary wire as best you can and attack the groove direct (crux). Trend right to meet the grassy ledge on its right-hand side. From here (red tricam or narrow cam - wild country size 2 equivalent - useful) plow straight up the wall above via good pockets and sidepulls and passing an insitu thread to finish up the final ramp of Death Row
Additional info:
Cleaned line on abseil, lots of muddy pockets and dried moss all over the wall. Tried bottom half on abseil, top half climbed on lead. |
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 Submitted by : David Peers
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof - Buttress below Craig y Gelynen
Date of ascent : June 2011
Route name : Beavering in Obscurity
Length/grade/stars : 60 m v diff
Climbers : David Peers, Hugh Walton
Start location:
A more interesting approach to Craig y Gelynen compared with the gully approach as described in the guidebook. When combined with a route on Craig y Gelynen it makes a good mountaineering day.
Pitch descriptions:
1. 30m Start at the lowest point of the buttress at the obvious clean slab. Climb the slab trending left towards the obvious heather break,, Climb up to the next heather ledge and on to the ledge to belay on the right of the bottom of the obvious corner.
2. 30m Climb the slab on the r of the corner ( possible belay on the left at the top of the corner). Carry on up the clean slab until scrambling remains to reach the break below the upper buttress.
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including Area, Crag and Route Name.