New Routes - Ogwen

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

New Guidebook published April 2010

Submitted by : Simon Cardy
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach, Little Buttress
Date of ascent : 22.05.2010
Route name : Two Door Cinema Club
Length/grade/stars : 43m, HVS
Climbers : Simon Cardy & Dave Basford.
Start location:
Takes the obvious curving crack line on a wall right of Little Buttress. Start near the right edge of the lower part of the Buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 18m. Climb easily the wall and slab just to the left of the arête to a big ledge. Belay below a thin pencil line crack on the big ledge. 2. 25m 5a. Start up the wall below a pencil thin crack then move right where the crack closes and up a short groove below a short tongue of grass. Move back left, using the curving crack, to a finger crack and climb the short groove above to finish. Good threads belays up and left.

Additional info:
The decent arrow p186 in the new guide is too low. You can traverse off right(facing in)a bit higher and weave a way down below Doleman Buttress into West Gully.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Bednobs
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Shed's Arete below a knobbly rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the rib from the right and follow it and its continuation to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Trampled Slab
Length/grade/stars : 27m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Matt's Pad.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up left and follow a short corner and the left edge of the slab; before moving right and up to gain the large ledge. Gain the upper slab from the left and follow it to a finish up the inset slab on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Padding Pool
Length/grade/stars : 28m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres down and right of Matt's Pad.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall and a brown rib above and right; then direct up the slab to reach the large ledge. Finish up the slab between the twin cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Haul Up Front
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the top of Ejectamenta.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Bridge the gully and use a good hold on the left rib to gain the arete. Climb the slab just left to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Slab Tramp
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Bistromaths, below a vegetated gully.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb straight up the clean streak in the slab on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Gwyn Rib
Length/grade/stars : 4m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Below Ejectamenta are a series of boulders (well seen on p 31). Start at the foot of the right rib of the fine, well-marked wall (on the upper set of boulders), facing down towards the Nant Gwnant.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rib. The rough groove immeditely right gives Gruff (4m S 4b 11.06.10).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Spring Chicken
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Gruff.

Pitch descriptions:
4c A bridging start gains the undercut slab on the right; which is followed with some trepidation.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Bastow Mines p 94
Date of ascent : 17/06/10
Route name : No Wisdom
Length/grade/stars : 40m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The bulk of Bastow Mines is broken; but its right-hand buttress, almost separated from the main mass by a steep grassy gully, is more continuous giving three interesting routes on rather unnerving, flaky rock. Start on the right side of the right-hand buttress at a grassy corner below a right-slanting heathery groove; and just left of a small pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-slanting groove, using its right rib in places to reach a sloping ledge below a steep headwall. Move 3 metres right and escape up a series of right-trending flake holds.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Bastow Mines p 94
Date of ascent : 17/06/10
Route name : King Solomon's Crack
Length/grade/stars : 38m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of No Wisdom below a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide crack, and continue up the crackline to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Bastow Mines p 94
Date of ascent : 17/06/10
Route name : Our Foolish Ways
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres up and left of King Solomon's Crack below a block at the left end of a line of small overhangs.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step left and ascend a rib to gain the top of the block. Step right and climb the crack to reach a steep little wall. Up this, then follow the left-trending thin cracks to easier ground and the top. Good climbing on fascinating, "will it or won't it" rock!

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 25/6/2010
Route name : Shockwave.
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E6 6a,
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Dan Gibson.
Start location:
Approach as for the Afterburner wall on the skyline in the Ogwen valley.

Pitch descriptions:
20m. E6,6a. Start directly beneath the obvious right facing cornercave and the shark fin flake. This is between the start of Afterburner and Aftershock. Burl up into the cave where a headbody jam relieves the worrying burn already eminating in you're arms. Lean out of the cave and with the use of a crafty knee-bar, pinch the Shark-fin flake and move quickly to good holds at the top. Poor protection is arranged before meaty moves on big holds, and techy moves on little holds lead to a shallow left facing corner beneath a small roof. Protection is available although it is not the best. Big moves up into the crack system directly above give good protection before an arm melting sequence on layaways lead the lucky to a brilliant flake sytem on left for a few moves before the final pull for the top of the crag.

Additional info:
No fixed gear. RP's and a skyhook may ease passage. Climbed ground up after abseil inspection and a clean.

Top: Nick on crux of Sonic Boom
Bottom: Nick on upper arête
© Nick Bullock

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Ogwen.
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 27/6/2010
Route name : Sonic Boom.
Length/grade/stars : 25 metres. E5 6a.
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Dan Gibson, Libby Peter
Start location:
Approach as for the description in the Ogwen Guide for the Mission Impossible Heart of Stone Wall. The route starts to the left of the Mission Impossible Wall at the super steep, juggy, lowest section of the crag reminiscent of Scimitar Ridge, directly beneath the flying arête which is obvious from the path on the left of the Mission Impossible Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
25 metre. E5 6a. Super steep start on massive holds directly beneath the overhanging arête. Good holds and good gear lead easily up to a no-hands rest on the right of the flying arête. Arrange bomb-proof protection while contemplating the wild position you are about to launch. Using the obvious massive flat foothold cut into the base of the arête, step out and using holds on either side of the arête climb it directly up the front for a few moves until a high rockover to small holds on the left give sanctuary. Unfortunately gear is not yet forthcoming and a few worrying arête moves back right lead to a grovel onto big sloping ledge and gear. Here we go again, wildly swing right to layaways on the upper arête which is followed all the way, via some gear and some resting ledges, on the right to the top.

Additional info:
A pretty amazing climb (if i say so myself) slightly reminiscent of other big mountain routes like The Axe, or the Great Arête. (ok, so maybe not as good!) Marred only by the very escapable top section of the arête. For the full effect climb the right of the arête all the way.

Libby seconding Heatwave Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Gallt yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 27/6/2010
Route name : Heatwave
Length/grade/stars : 18m. HVS. 5b.
Climbers : Dan Gibson, Libby Peter, Nick Bullock
Start location:
As for the Mission Impossible Heart of Stone Wall described in the new Ogwen Guidebook. On the left side of the Mission Impossible Wall is a wall split by a left to right crack. This wall faces at a 90 degree angle to the Mission Impossible Wall and has the very striking flying arête for its upper crest. The climb is approched by a step on the left of the Mission Impossible Wall.

Left: Libby seconding Heatwave © Nick Bullock

Pitch descriptions:
18 metre. HVS 5b. Climb the crack on good holds and with good gear in the crack and on either side.

Additional info:
Climbed and cleaned on sight by Dan Gibson

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The Milestone Area
Crag : Creigiau'r Dena p 128
Date of ascent : 02/07/10
Route name : Scrawnsome
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Anniversary Approach below a wide flake crack set in an overhanging wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wide flake crack to gain a right-facing corner. Using the left edge of the corner for layback holds, climb the wall on the left. An exciting little climb, which feels more independent than it actually is!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The Milestone Area
Crag : Creigiau'r Dena p 128
Date of ascent : 02/07/10
Route name : Scrawny Rib
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Anniversary Approach.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Anniversary Approach for 2 metres; before pulling directly up the steep rib above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Addawol
Length/grade/stars : 35m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The main feature of the lower buttresses is a pink slab with two heather stripes. 100 metres left of this slab are three slabby walls. The left-hand slab is protected by a steep wall both at the bottom and the top. Start at the left end of the steep wall below the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short fingery wall; step right and follow the left side of the slab to gain a ledge. Follow a slab up leftwards and continue up the rounded ribs above; finishing with pleasure up the final steeper rib.

Additional info:
The name means "promising".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Atal
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Addawol below the right end of the steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Make steep pulls up the right end of the steep wall using the obvious flake holds to gain the slab. Follow this more easily to below the upper steep wall. Escape leftwards down the heather.

Additional info:
The name means "to hinder".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Sol Slab
Length/grade/stars : 33m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Atal below a pocketed slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the pocketed slab and the easy-angled slabs above to gain the steepening. Make a tricky move through the steepening immediately left of an unhelpful thin crack; and follow the slabs to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Sol Trap
Length/grade/stars : 31m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Sol Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Wander up the easy-angled slabs to reach the steepening at a pointed flake. Stand on the flake and pull over rightwards; move up and finish up the rounded rib above and slightly left. A serious pitch!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Byrfyfyr
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the right end of a half-height heather terrace on the right-hand slabby wall; below a thin crack, 17 metres up and right of Sol Trap.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack and trend rightwards up the slab to finish. The scooped slab at the left end of this slabby wall is taken by Dim Anodd (12m Mod 030710); which can be used as a descent with care.

Additional info:
The names mean "impromptu" and "not hard"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Plinko
Length/grade/stars : 24m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
100 metres right of Byrfyfyr is the pink slab itself. Start 6 metres down and left of the pink slab at a more white-coloured slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the white slab and the brown slab above; until moves up a quartz gangway on the left gain belays on a rouded rib. Escape down the heather on the left!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Pink Un
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres up and right of Plinko on the pink slab and just left of the left-hand heather stripe. Descent: traverse right (looking in) and go down the heather.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab trending rightwards and pull through the steepening. Continue up the upper slab and move right to gain flake belays on a terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Pink Two
Length/grade/stars : 22m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Pink Un, between the two heather stripes.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and pull through the steepening on the right. Continue up the upper slab to the flake belays on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib p 220
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Transgression
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Immediately right of Sub-Cneifion Rib is a subsidiary buttress, now containing two worthwhile little climbs. Start 25 metres down and right od Sub Cneifion Rib on the right flank of this subsidiary buttress and 6 metres above its base; and below a tiny groove capped by an arched roof.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left and climb a short rib, then trend leftwards up a scoop; before finishing up a crackramp.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib p 220
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Dilettante
Length/grade/stars : 21m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Transgression.

Pitch descriptions:
Pass the arched roof to its right and follow a ramp-line up the right sidewall of the buttress to an escape left at a flake. Climb a short corner and finish up a blunt rib which steepens near the top to give a delicate finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen p 222
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Varnishing Holds
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres down and right of Peredur at the lowest point of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the rib and the awkward short corner-groove above and right; before following the arête on the right of the deep groove. Ascend the final wall rightwards to finish up a thin crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen p 222
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Inarwg
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Spinal Crack at the foot of a slab facing down the valley.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab slightly leftwards to an overlap; pull over this and the heather cornice above, and finish up the wall on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen p 222
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Snug as a Bug
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 18 metres up and right of Spinal Crack on the left flank of another impressive rounded buttress; below a niche.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to the niche, then step left to below a shallow groove. Climb the left rib of the shallow groove and the mercifully short wide crack above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Slap on the Rouge
Length/grade/stars : 50m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the top of pitch 2 of Red Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
An exploration of the steeper ground above and left of the parent route. From the left end of the stance pull through the overhang at a white scoop and continue up the rib. Climb a steepening up and left and gain a grassy fault. Pull across the steep wall ahead and finish up the broad rib.