New Routes - North Wales Limestone

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

NORTH WALES LIMESTONE - Craig y Forwyn - Thanks to the BMC, climbers now have access to this crag. The CC have made available the guidebook extracts for this area as a download - Click to download - Please note the access and parking requirements.

Take a look at the North Wales Limestone Wiki

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : N Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone, Twilight gully walls
Date of ascent : 25/07/98
Route Name : New Bend in my Arm
Length/grade/stars : E1 5b
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location & description:
The counter-line to No Grips, starting below the prow, moving diagonally leftwards across the upper slab then finish direct.

Additional info:
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight 25.7.98)

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : N Wales Limestone
Crag : Castle Inn Quarry
Date of ascent : 30/05/98
Route Name : Mr. Lister
Length/grade/stars : E2 5b
Climbers : Nick Taylor, Simon Berry
Start location:
Walking a short distance left from the main crag is a small right-facing wall of good rock (about 7 or 8 metres high)

Pitch description:
A direct line up the right hand side of the wall.

Additional info:
On-sight

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : N Wales Limestone
Crag : Castle Inn Quarry
Date of ascent : 30/05/98
Route Name : It's Not All Walking, Alan
Length/grade/stars : E2 5b
Climbers : Simon Berry, Nick Taylor
Start location:
Walking a short distance left from the main crag is a small right-facing wall of good rock (about 7 or 8 metres high)

Pitch description:
The left hand side of the wall, following a crack-line.

Additional info:
On-sight

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 15/11/09
Route name : Crepuscalar
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres up and left of Sunset.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Follow the encrusted wall, finishing slightly to the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 15/11/09
Route name : Corvara
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo) Re-discovered)
Start location:
Start between Selva and Sesto.

Pitch descriptions:
4b. The wall and right-trending flake between Selva and Sesto gives a few interesting moves.

Additional info:
Done before; but worth recording!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 17/11/09
Route name : Lapins
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Mestre.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the wall finishing over a small overlap below a group of saplings.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone ( Clwyd Limestone )
Crag : Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 17/04/10
Route name : The Howlers
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately left of Mango.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the blunt rib direct.

Additional info:
Lower section cleaned and re-discovered.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone ( Clwyd Limestone )
Crag : Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 17/04/10
Route name : Crack and Scoop
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Lapins, below a thin crack at half height.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin crack and the fingery scoop above; a bit dirty but unpolished!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Lost Property
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Rock Thief below a steep gullycorner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a steep wall on the right to gain a ramp system. Follow this leftwards to finish up a short corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Boots Arete
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for May Day.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step right and climb the arete.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Parakeet with Attitude
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Birds Cry.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull into the slabby groove and follow it pleasantly to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Warning
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Shepherd's Delight.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner by mainly using its right wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Blacksmith
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
15 metres right of Warning is a buttress with a left-curving overhanging flake in its centre. Start at the left side of the buttress below a grassy groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain and climb the grassy groove; better than it looks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Farrier's Groove
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Blacksmith.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, step right and follow the ramp-like grooves; keeping left of the blocky prow at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Right Wing Hydrogen Area
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Dan Dellion
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke solo (Re-discovered and dandelions removed!)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Babel Face.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rightwards-trending flake crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : 49 Steps
Length/grade/stars : 11m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
20 metres right of Dig Deep is an impressive cracked pillar of doubtful stability. Start 5 metres right of the cracked pillar below a fine yew tree.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the "steps" leftwards and finish up a short corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Forty-Niner
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for 49 Steps.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall immediately left of the yew tree and finish up the curving crack above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Half Lode
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 12 metres right of Forty-Niner at a shallow groove guarded by a half-height overlap; and just left of an arete.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall, pull through the overlap and finish up the shallow groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Gentian
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
10 metres right of Minor Problem a half-height ledge has a small bulge with a thin crack on its right below it.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall and the thin crack to gain the ledge. Finish up the scoop to the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Wild Mint
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
22 metres right of Gentian is an inverted V-chimney just left of a large tree; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the chimney and pull onto the grey slab using a superb, but hidden set of pocket holds. Finish up the wall above. The chimney itself gives a classic tussle Mint Mine (8m S 19.07.10)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls Lower Tier
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Underwall
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Below the broken right-hand end of The Miner's Walls, a series of grey walls stretch leftwards forming a lower tier. Start in the middle of the first grey wall approximately 20 metres left of the fence.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the recessed wall and finish up a tiny V-groove on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales LImestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls Lower Tier
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Undergrooves
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Underwall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Trend leftwards up a series of grooves, finishing to the left of the top overhang.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd LImestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls Lower Tier
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Underflake
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
20 metres left of Undergrooves is a bulging, "holdless" grey wall; defined on its right by a flake crack; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack.

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : North Wales Limestone.
Crag : The Gallery
Date of ascent : 8.8. 10
Route name : The Road (amongst the ruin)
Length/grade/stars : 35m E5 6b
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start location:
As described in the A55 sport climbs guide book

The Road (amongst the ruin) 1st ascent Pitch descriptions:
One 35 metre pitch starting up the climb Violets Leap on the far right hand side of the crag. Climb Violets Leap until reaching the fault-lineoverhang which is a rising line that runs the length of half the crag. Start the long road left, and left, and more left. Some easy ground is passed and some not so easy ground as the road hits 1 in 6. Keep on trucking along the thin break after the jamming crux until a rest down and left of a worrying nose of rock. Climb up for a few moves (the crux of The Evil That Men Do 7b) and then motor out of the corner following the break until beneath the final moves of Finnegans Wake. Climb Finnegans Wake to finish at a lower off.

Additional info:
The gear is quite a lot of cams of all sizes, (several number 1's and purple dragons (1.5s) will come in handy) and the bolts when you can reach them from the other routes.