Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : LLiwedd
Crag : Far West Buttress, p 82
Date of ascent : 07/08/09
Route name : Emrys
Length/grade/stars : 180 feet Very Difficult
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at a rib immediately right of the shallow gully mentioned in the approach to Far West Route, cairn; approximately 150 feet right of Far West Gully.
Pitch descriptions:
1 60 feet Climb the rib on flaky holds, then trend right up heathery ramps to belay at a quartz ledge. 2 80 feet Move 5 feet right and follow a left-slanting groove to a ledge. Trend right up quartz to gain a rib. Move around to its right, and follow the brown slab up and rightwards to below the final tower. 3 40 feet Climb the left flank of the tower on large holds, until a wide crack on the left leads abruptly to the top. |
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Lliwedd
Crag : Slanting Buttress p 79
Date of ascent : 11/09/09
Route name : Penned Dragon
Length/grade/stars : 680 feet Severe
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Essentially a right-hand alternative to the lower section of Ridge Route; or a better approach to Westerner. Start as for Ridge Route.
Pitch descriptions:
1 140 feet Scramble and climb the lower, right-hand chevron to its top. Continue up grooves, then easier ground to a quartz ledge and spike belays.
2 120 feet Climb a steeper groove above and slightly right, then slabs to reach the gully and the start of Westerner.
3 100 feet 4a Above lies a steep arete. Scramble up the gully, as for Westerner, for 25 feet; before a recess on the left allows access to the arete. Continue up and leftwards to gain the arete proper and climb this more easily to reach a large stance adjacent to a perched flake (old abseil cord!).
4 120 feet 4a Mustering as much elegance as possible, climb the short, widening crack above. Move up rightwards to a spike, before tip-toeing leftwards across a smooth slab to gain a groove with a finger-stone at its base. Climb the groove to reach the ridge on pitch 7 of Ridge Route and follow this climb to where it abuts onto the upper wall. Continuation:- Pitches 8, 9, and 10 of Ridge Route give a fine, logical finish. |
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Lliwedd
Crag : Slanting Buttress p 79
Date of ascent : 11/09/09
Route name : Morgan's Misery
Length/grade/stars : 200 feet VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
A line up the next rib system right of Soule's Groove (p 82). After a reasonable start, the climbing quickly detiorates! Start 45 feet right of Soule's Groove below a grooved arete, with a 4 foot high pinnacle flake at its base.
Pitch descriptions:
1 120 feet 4a Scramble up, and pass the pinnacle flake on its left. From its top step right into the groove in the arete and follow this to a ledge. Continue up the next grroved arete to gain a ledge below a loose, flaky rib.
2 50 feet Climb the steep, vegetated groove on the left; before re-gaining the flaky rib below a quartz prow. Step right and move up to welcome nut belays in a recess.
3 30 feet Short walls on the right lead to the Far West Gully descent route |
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Lliwedd
Crag : Far West Buttress p 82.
Date of ascent : 11/09/09
Route name : Avalon
Length/grade/stars : 210 feet VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The main feature of the right side of Far West Gully (looking in), is a large area of quartz. This route takes the right flank of this quartz and the steep buttress above, giving a fine pitch. Start below the right flank of this area of quartz; cairn.
Pitch descriptions:
1 70 feet Climb the nose of quartz on its left, and continue rightwards to small spike belays below the steep buttress.
2 90 feet 4b Climb the buttress directly to twin spikes. . Move up slightly right and follow the right side of the arete to gain a small ledge. Climb the leftwards-leaning groove above to reach a quartz gangway. Follow this rightwards for 20 feet, to belay on a motley collection of spikes below a short, steep wall.
3 50 feet 4c Climb the right side of the short, steep wall (tricky, but avoidable); until a groove on the right leads to the summit ridge. |
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