New Routes - Lleyn

Submitted by: Peter Davies
Area: Lleyn
Crag: Craig Dorys
Date of Ascent: 25/5/09
Route Name: Vince's Finest Pineapple Rings
Length/Grade/Stars: 100ft / E4 6a,5c / *
Climbers: Tim Marsh and Peter Davies

Start Location:
On the West facing wall immediately to the right of the Golden Wall. Start 15ft right of the corner taken by Vroom 23. Good steep climbing with some loose rock.

Pitch Descriptions:
Pitch 1, 50ft. Climb a steep wall to a rising breakline at 15ft (good protection in break). Climb the steep groove above to a good rest beneath a hanging corner (small wires and RPs). Make committing moves into the corner on some suspect holds, then move left to belay on the large halfway ledge.

Pitch 2, 50ft. Gain and then climb the prominent V groove in the upper part of the cliff (perfect protection in back of groove). There are good belays approx 50ft down the slope behind the cliff top.

Additonal info: Pitch 1 was led less directly on the first onsight attempt and was then reclimbed later the same day to give the better, more direct line described here. Pitch 2 was led onsight as described.

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Lleyn
Crag : Craig Dorys Stigmata Buttress
Date of ascent : 2/9/10
Route name : Blood Meridian.
Length/grade/stars : 120 ft E6 6a
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start location:
Approach as for Cripple Creek. The climb starts in the clean cut right facing corner on the farthest point right of the same wide ledge that cripple creek starts.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the open book corner on solid rock until stood on the right side of the same ledge that cripple creek passes. Step right from the ledge and up, using some solid crispy red wafers to the first peg. Climb up and slightly right, pinching large layaways until a second peg is reached. Creaking flakes and technical wall climbing reach an overlap which is passed with the use of an obvious horn of rock. Strenuous and bold. Moves past the third peg (crux)lead to some good gear in crunchy brown rock. Climb direct with good gear until stood on a wide ledge. Climb the blunt arete on the left using holds on both sides of the arete until beneath the roof at its largest. Using big holds on the right and pockets on the left pull the roof (wild and very satisfying) Climb direct, by laybacking the sharp arete above and using knee bars and sidepulls until it is possible to rockover on good holds onto and reach a monster crozzle pocket.

Additional info:
3 pegs insitu. The 1st is a blade which needs tying off. The second peg is bomber. The 3rd peg wobbles a tad but is good. More info on www.dmmwales.com

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : The Lleyn.
Crag : Craig Dorys, Upper Facet.
Date of ascent : 10th august 2011
Route name : Futterwacken
Length/grade/stars : 25m, E5 6a
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy.
Start location:
Abseil into the Upper Facet from the top of the crag.

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for Dorys Day and Absent Friends. Climb to the overhang and where Dorys Day moves left and Absent Friends moves right and climb direct through the overhang to a peg. Climb direct up the wall (crux) until the holds get bigger, but the gear gets sparcer, until a short stimulating left traverse leads to the right hand side of the large ledge of Dorys Day. Sort out some gear and step off the right side of the ledge onto a big foothold on the right arete. Good solid crimps lead steeply to finish right, directly above the arete.

Additional info:
One small blade peg was placed to protect the crux. a peg on Absent Friends can also be clipped by way of the long piece of tat, this peg is rusty and poor. The Upper Facet is very good quality rock, as good as it gets really.

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : The Lleyn
Crag : Craig Dorys. Golden Wall.
Date of ascent : 5th August 2011.
Route name : Walk the Line
Length/grade/stars : 30m. E4 5c
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy.
Start location:
Approach Golden Wall as for the guidebook description and climb the E2, Knowing Her. The horizontal break approximately 2 metres above Orange Blossom Special.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb Knowing Her until a reasonable small ledge is reached at approximately three quarters height, belay just below the fourth break up. Follow the break in its entirety with footholds in Orange Blossom Special. Good gear at the start fizzles out to give a stimulating exercise in crab like mind control before a cluster of gear which is mainly poor except for one very good small cam, convinces you that maybe you can continue the shuffle. Continue while being careful with the snappy sidepulls, especially as your rope now resembles an uninterrupted washing line, before another very good, but very very small cam gives respite. Once more run it out mincing left until the break leads to the corner of The Faltering Hand belay. Climb out via Faltering Hand.

Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : The Lleyn.
Crag : Craig Dorys. Golden Wall.
Date of ascent : 5th August 2011
Route name : Orange Blossom Special
Length/grade/stars : 30m. E1 5b.
Climbers : nick Bullock, Graham Desroy.
Start location:
The horizontal break above Scintillating Witches on Golden Wall

Pitch descriptions:
From a belay in the corner of Faltering Hand follow the third break up on The Golden Wall moving from left to right before exiting via Knowing Her. A pleasant pitch that is very well protected by cams.