New Routes - Llanberis

New Guidebook published March 2009

Submitted by : Tim Neill
Area : LLanberis
Crag : Dinas Mot, p243
Date of ascent : 02/07/09
Route name : Auacucho Crack
Length/grade/stars : E1 5b
Climbers : Tim and Lou Neill
Start location:
This is a finger crack starting as for Do or Dai (E7 near Plexus Buttress).

Pitch descriptions:
Continue direct and step left to gain the heather ledge and abseil belay at top of Shining Path. A neat pitch..

Submitted by : Tim Neill
Area : LLanberis
Crag : Esgair Maen, p160
Date of ascent : 11/08/09
Route name : A Lot Less Monsterous
Length/grade/stars : E3 5c
Climbers : Tim Neill, Nick Bullock
Start location:
This is an eliminate on Scimitar Ridge. Start on King Wad.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow King Wad to its thread, then follow a steep mottled groove leftwards to the last peg on Ric Nest Monster. Step left to follow juggy arête to the top.

Submitted by : Mark Hounslea
Area : llanberis
Crag : Drws y Gwynt
Date of ascent : 22/08/09
Route name : Zephyr
Length/grade/stars : 24m E2 5b
Climbers : Mark Hounslea, 'Irish' George Gilmore
Start location:
Climbs the wall between little Sepulchre and Demi Sec Dame

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for DSD. Climb the wide crack on the left of the large block and the bold wall above to good holds. Make delicate moves right to a fine layback flake which leads to the top.

Submitted by : Simon Cardy
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Drws y Gwynt
Date of ascent : 02/09/09
Route name : Hot Forged Rib
Length/grade/stars : 40 m, E1
Climbers : Paul Harrison, Simon Cardy AL
Start location:
P 70. Start just Right of Holly Gate.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 20m 5a Climb a rib then a short wall on the right past a big crosley pocket (big cam) and up to joint the stance of Holly Gate. 2. 20m 5b Go up a little on the right (as for Holly Gate) then climb directly up the rib - a very good clean pitch (small wires).

Submitted by : Simon Cardy
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Drws y Gwynt
Date of ascent : 02/09/09
Route name : Cold Iron Crack
Length/grade/stars : 40 m E2
Climbers : Paul Harrison, Simon Cardy
Start location:
The obvious slash in the upper part of the buttress Right of Hot Forged Rib. Start as for Hot Forged Rib (just R. of the start to Holly Gate p70).

Pitch descriptions:
1 5a As for pitch one of Hot Forged Rib. 2 5c From the tree belay, climb up and right across the wall to gain the steep crack. Climb the crack to the top - a classic fight against the barn door.

Submitted by : Tim Neill
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Ettws Isaf
Date of ascent : May 2010
Route name : Melin Cerrig Gron
Length/grade/stars : 30m E4 5C 1 star
Climbers : Tim Neill, Yan Boorman
Start location:
Start as for Wimpey Pa Silent Thunder

Pitch descriptions:
30m, 5C, Takes the obvious sharp Pebble Mill style arete just left of the start of ST. Step onto it from the left, and lay off the arete to a succession of good gear slots. Leave these behind as the arete becomes more blunt, and finish very boldly into the heather cornice. Very good, Plexus style climbing!

Additional info:
Quick brush on abseil before lead.

Submitted by : Lee Roberts
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Clogwyn Y Grochan, Central Buttress
Date of ascent : 17/10/10
Route name : The Hammer
Length/grade/stars : 25m, E3 5c? Maybe 1 star
Climbers : Lee Roberts, Stu Stanley
Start location:
As for SS Special

Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch, abseil from tat on SS Special Start between SS Special and Sickle, side-runner advisable in SS, climb directly to a small ledge half way up slab avoiding the use of SS or the Sickle. Its contrived but climbs quite well on good edges and sidepulls. A good medium wire on the right of the ledge protects the top half of the slab. Climb direct up slab via a couple of thin moves to good holds and ledge. Climb direct up grove left of sickle to the sickle peg belay. Pull right round arete on good holds to a crack and follow this on good holds and gear to finish up slab as for SS.

Additional info:
Side-runner used on SS Special. Could be climbed without but I feel its more in keeping with the rest of the route to use a runner. The landing is good so could easily be bouldered out by someone braver than me!

Submitted by : Harold Walmsley
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Ponc
Date of ascent : 12/04/2011
Route name : Ponc Roc
Length/grade/stars : 20 m, VS, 4c
Climbers : Harold Walmsley
Start location:
Start as for Mia

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Mia for a couple of m to a horizontal break. Traverse this at hand level (crossing Heilyn) to a L slanting crackgroove on the far right which is followed to finish as for Bergamot (a Barry Clarke route, not in guide - see note and link to Barry's route at top of page)

Additional info:
Solo

Submitted by : Harold Walmsley
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Ponc
Date of ascent : 12/04/2011
Route name : Bergamot Variation
Length/grade/stars : 20 m, VS, 0 star
Climbers : Harold Walmsley
Start location:
Start as for Bergamot

Pitch descriptions:
20 m 4c Follow Bergamot to Heilyn. Make 1 move up Heilyn then follow the R slanting crack to the big ledge. Climb the arete on its L side with one stiff move to jugs.

Additional info:
Solo

Submitted by : Harold Walmsley
Area : Llanberis
Crag : Ponc
Date of ascent : 12/04/2011
Route name : Ponc Roc Direct start
Length/grade/stars : 8 m, (to junction with Ponc Roc), VS, 0
Climbers : Harold Walmsley
Start location:
Start as for Heilyn

Pitch descriptions:
8 m, 4c Follow Heilyn up the initial rib then take the L side of the R slanting arête to the base of the crack groove of Ponc Roc. Follow this to finish.

Additional info:
Solo