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New Routes - Gower

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Pobbles Bay East
Date of ascent : 30/08/04
Route Name : Nearly Dropped Me Brolly
Length/grade/stars : E2 5c *
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
On the east wall of the cove three parallel cracks slant up to a large conglomerate overhang.

Pitch descriptions:
12m. Follow the left-hand crack direct to below the overhang, then a steep sequence of moves on undercuts and jams lead rightwards and up to an urgent exit. An interesting climb with good protection.

Additional info:
On-sight, belayed by Lesley Burgess
Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area, The Aisle
Date of ascent : 29/08/04
Route Name :  Barefoot Acrobat
Length/grade/stars :  VS 4c *
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Go through the cave leading to Sump it up.

Pitch descriptions:
12m. Go through the cave leading to Sump it up. A steep hanging rib on the left (west) side of the arch is climbed on jugs to a strenuous exit over the cave entrance. Climbed again 2006, I now feel it warrants VS not HS as originally graded, and well worth a star.

Additional info:
On-sight solo
Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area, The Aisle
Date of ascent : 29/08/04
Route Name :  North Edge Direct
Length/grade/stars :  E1 5a
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
The arête on the landward (north) end of the aisle.

Pitch descriptions:
12m. The arête on the landward (north) end of the aisle is climbed direct. (The original at VS 4c would appear to climb the right hand side of the arête swinging left at about half height).

Additional info:
On-sight solo
Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area, The Aisle
Date of ascent : 10/06/06
Route Name : Sixteen Hooves
Length/grade/stars : E1 5b*
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Start right of Zoom Zoom Doris, underneath the arch.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull strenuously through bulges to the roof (thread & good wedged rest). Resume battle exiting leftwards to finish up the easier corner (past another thread).

Additional info:
On-sight
Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area
Date of ascent : 13/06/03
Route Name : Wriggler's Chimney
Length/grade/stars : HS *
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
This route has been inserted into the guide in the wrong place, it is the chimney right of  Malm, in the back of the right hand side of the gully.
Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : Gower
Crag : Mewslade Bay area
Date of ascent : 09/06/06
Route Name : Jiggler's Chimbley
Length/grade/stars : S
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
This is the squeeze chimney in the back of the left hand side of the gully (left of Balm).

Pitch descriptions:
Not as difficult as Wriggler, exit through a hole to the Catacomb gully area.

Additional info:
None
Submitted by : Oliver Heyes
Area : The Gower
Crag : Three Cliffs Bay
Date of ascent : 03/09/06
Route name : Maze Bulge
Length/grade/stars : 9 Metres, HVS 5a
Climbers : Oliver Heyes, Kevin
Start location:
Start below the overhanging bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain finger cracks and glass-like footholds to pull over the obvious bulge to flake (One poor cam and one poor nut). Pull right to easier ground and climb the broken biscuits of rock, make sure your partner does not get a rock shower. Move back from the edge to an obvious belay point.

Additional info:
Onsight Lead