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New Routes - Gogarth

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Click for details of a new area of Porth-Y-Garan north of Rhoscolyn

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

• Gogarth Wiki

Submitted by : Rob Greenwood
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Smurf Zawn
Date of ascent : 28/08/06
Route Name : Spinney's Alternative to Intimidation
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5a/b
Climbers : R. G. Greenwood, K. A. Spinney
Start location:
Descend as for Smurf, Green Light, and Girdle etc... but instead of going into the zawn walk left (facing out to sea) along a narrowing gangway. The route starts approximately 5-ish metres before the end of the gangway beneath an area of steep rock.

Pitch descriptions:
1) 5a/b. 25m. Boulder up on huge, yet slightly suspect, holds to attain a comfortable rest (hard bit over - rambling adventure begins!). Move up and rightwards round the rib and continue round the corner to traverse horizontally along the obvious hand/foot rail. Belay below the obvious possibly detached flake and corner crack.

2) 4c. 15m. Ascend the corner on good jams until you can crawl ontop of the block of the corner crack beneath the final intimidating roof. Once established ontop of the block things are much less intimidating and a fun heel hook rockover leads to the top. Belay well back.

Additional info: Onsight. No known repeats - I don't know why anyone would seriously want to!!! Great fun at the time but by no means a 3 star classic - meanders its way around the bits of rock that looked the most fun on that part of the cliff!
Submitted by : Trefor ROBERTS
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Rhoscolyn
Date of ascent : 26th July 2005
Route Name : Daedalus
Length/grade/stars : E1 5a 5a ** 35m
Climbers : Trefor Roberts, Rhys Hughes.
Start location:
Start in the obvious corner right of the Icarus flake start.

Pitch descriptions:
Essentially a direct version of Icarus. Well worth doing as the climbing is more consistent and exposed than the original line.

Pitch 1 - 22m (5a)
Climb up the corner to a ledge on the right of a precarious looking block. Move up left and then right (awkward) to the bottom of an obvious narrow red ramp. Follow this to the stance at the bottom of the final Icarus pitch.

Pitch 2 - 15m (5a)
Follow the corner of Icarus pitch 2

Additional info: Lead on-sight (no pre-inspection or cleaning) Repeated 30th October 2006 (Trefor Roberts, Iwan Roberts)
Submitted by : Andy Lole
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Flytrap Area
Date of ascent : 14/08/2006
Route Name : In the Next Room
Length/grade/stars : 50m, E3 4a, 5c, 5b, **
Climbers : Andy Lole, Ben Anderson
Start location:
Approach as for Flytrap.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1. 12m 4a
Climb the first pitch of Flytrap.

Pitch 2. 12m 5c
Climb diagonally out leftwards through the overhung cave above the belay ledge. Pull into the crack above and traverse left to the ledge above the chock stone (Flytrap belay end of pitch 3). Belay at the left hand end.

Pitch 3. 25m 5b
Traverse left along the folded cracks leading from the bottom of the belay ledge into the hanging groove between Arachnid and Arachnid variation. Climb the groove and belay on the ledge at its top.

Additional info: Onsight. Andy Lole lead all pitches.
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/08/04)
Route Name : Straight and Narrow
Length/grade/stars : 30m HVS 4c
Climbers : M.Gutteridge, C.Sullivan
Start location:
Obvious long narrow slab in the zawn behind Grimper.  Route described is next to Stormy Monday.

Pitch descriptions:
Straight and Narrow HVS 4c 30m.
Climbs the centre of the slab right of Stormy Monday. Take the narrow crack to the overlap which is breached at a notch. Climb straight up the centre of the slab above. There is a surprising amount of (poor) gear but a rope for the top is advised.

Additional info:
Safety rope at the top not used on the first ascent.
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : The Seamed Wall
Length/grade/stars   : 20m VS 4c
Climbers : J.Martin, M.Gutteridge.
Start location:
Start at the virtually non-tidal ledge at the foot of Prat in the Flat.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner for 6m then break out left onto the steep wall. Traverse left to reach the right slanting groove and follow it to the top.

Zig-Zag Slab VS 4c 24m.
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the Flat. Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left to finish up the right facing hanging corner.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).

Between Zig-Zag Slab and Icameisaurus is a corner with an obvious cave.
Who Needs Range West? VS 4c 25m.
Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left of the cave. Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to finish up the steep quartz wall.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).

Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs VS 4c 20m.
Start at the entrance of the cave left of Icameisaurus just above the barnacle line. Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow this to the top and belay well back.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).

Additional info:
Stake belays well back.
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : Zig-Zag Slab
Length/grade/stars : 24m VS 4c
Climbers : M.Gutteridge, J.Martin.
Start location:
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the Flat.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left to finish up the right facing hanging corner.

Additional info:
Belay well back.
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : Who Needs Range West?
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 4c
Climbers : J.Martin, M.Gutteridge.
Start location:
Between Prat in the Flat and Icameosaurus is an obvious cave.  Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left of the cave.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to finish up the steep quartz wall.

Additional info:
Belay well back.
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Gogarth
Crag : The Range, between Independance and Emmenthal
Date of ascent : (28/05/07)
Route Name : Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS 4c
Climbers : M.Gutteridge, J.Martin.
Start location:
Between Prat in the Flat and Icameosaurus is an obvious cave.  Start at the entrance of the cave just above the barnacle line.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow this to the top.

Additional info:
Belay well back.
Submitted by : Dave Brown
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Rhoscolyn, Llawder
Date of ascent : 23/6/07
Route Name : Lacking Testicular Stature
Length/grade/stars : E4 6a *
Climbers : Dave Brown, Neil Thomas, Max Falkirk
Start location:
Left hand end of wall. Approach as for The Wild Rover.

Pitch descriptions:
34m Climb directly up the arête to the right of Mainlining to finish up the end of El Dorado.

Bold and sustained on lower section, with some poor rock. (Don't try to crimp the white stuff)

Apologies if already claimed.

Additional info:
no fixed gear.
Submitted by : Nick Gough
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Mousetrap Zawn, (a traverse Between the lighthouse steps approach & the bridge)
Date of ascent : 26/05/1970
Route Name : Linkage
Length/grade/stars : About 550ft, VS
Climbers : N Gough, D Bland (alt leads)
Start location:
Start from near the foot of Hysteresis. The route is possible at all states of the tide, with the usual caveats!

Pitch descriptions:
1. 120ft.Traverse diagonally leftwards to a comfortable stance about 50ft above the sea.

2. 120ft. Continue horizontally along the obvious line. Descend a short corner, traverse left again, then climb 10ft to an unpleasant stance. (It's possible to traverse directly all the way).

3. 140ft. Move around the corner on doubtful rock & continue more easily to a large stance.

4. 60ft. Descend the ramp into the small zawn.

5. 70ft. Go around the zawn & walk onto a good stance at an iron eye-bolt below an overhanging chimney.

6. 60ft. Climb the short steep chimney & follow the diagonal fault up to the bridge.

Additional info:
Dredged this up from notes in an old climbing diary.....don't remember it being terrifying enough to mention it before!
Submitted by : Gary Smith
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Hollyhead Mountain
Date of ascent : 11/3/07
Route Name : Sisters Crack
Length/grade/stars : Single Pitch - 26m.   E2 5b/c *
Climbers : Gary Smith, Mark Hellewell, Fran McNicol
Start location:
Between Echoes (E3 6a) and Bruvers (HVS 5a) is a prominent crack in a bulge. Start directly below crack in overhanging scoop. Relief (E2 5c??) misses the point by climbing 2m up the crack then diagonally left to the arete, stepping round and avoiding the bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
Take the obvious line directly through the crack (bulge). After a boulder start (good friend), pull strenuously through the bulge (5c??) (excellent runner) and climb directly up the headwall above finishing on RH arete to good ledge (Belay near Bruvers).

Worth a star compared to Echoes and 'Relief'!

Additional info:
I think this may have been done; if it hasn't it should have been. I forwarded info to (New) team doing Gogarth and they have no record.
Photo diagram passed to Pete's Eats Logbook
Submitted by : David Durkan
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Holyhead Mountain/Ramp B
Date of ascent : Summer 2007
Route Name : Puffin Shuffle
Length/grade/stars : 75ft. HVS.
Climbers : David Durkan
Start location:
Left side/edge up front of buttress. Bit contrived in line, but varied, interesting moves.

Pitch descriptions:
Up to steep wall, with desperate move into slabby groove on left side of buttress (5c), easy up to shallow groove, follow this to giant handhold on right edge, continue up with hands on the right edge and feet on right wall of Candlestick - fall not recommended.

Additional info:
Solo, led with back rope - good runners to just over half height.
Submitted by : Tristan Peers
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Porth-Y Garan

Tristan has climbed in this area for years yet there appears to be no mention of the crag north of Rhoscolyn in the Guidebook or other sources.

Click to download (pdf 687KB) a Map, access information and photo-diagrams.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Angelsey Gogarth Holyhead Mountain
Crag : Ramp A
Date of ascent : 04/02/10
Route name : Merlot Slab
Length/grade/stars : 28 m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Thumbscrew, at a deep corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Graunch up the deep corner and continue up the slab before moving right to a quartz block. Step right and climb the rib to a finish up the continuation rib on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth Holyhead Mountain
Crag : Ramp A
Date of ascent : 04/02/10
Route name : Finbar
Length/grade/stars : 6 m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of Corkscrew.

Pitch descriptions:
Seven metres left of Corkscrew is a quartz-bedecked arete which forms a thin blade of rock in its upper section. Gain the arete by a long stride from the right; and continue up the blade to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Holyhead Mountain
Crag : Central Slab
Date of ascent : 07/02/10
Route name : Engage Reverse
Length/grade/stars : 50m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Black Owen.

Pitch descriptions:
A high level left to right traverse of the slab; with a technical and serious (especially for the second) first pitch and a delectable finish. 1 30m 4c. Follow Black Owen to the shallow chimney. Move right for 2 metres and make a tricky descent to a lower ramp; traverse rightwards down along this until the sanctuary of Route 66 is reached. Move up and right to gain a ledge and belay. 2 20m 4a. Move up and traverse right for 5 metres to reach a small overlap. Step up and follow the obvious footholds into the fine hand crack of D'Elephant. Continue rightwards below another small overlap to finish up the slabby wall on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 09/02/10
Route name : Blunt Instrument
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
80 metres East of the North Stack buildings a broad heathery ridge, marked by small rock outcrops leads down to serrated ledges forming a blunt promontory ( suggested name of area Blunt Promontory?). Its left-hand side wall (looking in) contains a series of cracks. This first route takes the line of the first crack 2 metres left of the arete.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack, somewhat awkwardly where it widens near the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 09/02/10
Route name : Snaptrack
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Blunt Instrument.

Pitch descriptions:
Start 3 metres left of Blunt Instrument and follow a series of flakes diagonally rightwards to finish up a rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 09/02/10
Route name : Buntline Special
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right-hand side wall (looking in) is comprised of grooves and walls. Start from high ledges at the left-hand side of the wall below a shallow groove and immediately right of a subsidiary chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow groove and finish to the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Boot Zawn
Date of ascent : 10/02/10
Route name : Wylfarine
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of the descent corner as for Idris Mad Dog.

Pitch descriptions:
4b. Make a tricky traverse left just above the barnacle line to reach a curving groove. Up this to a rounded roof, pass this on its right to easier ground and the top. Starting 5 metres to the left, at the left edge of a smooth slab; and best gained by a rightwards traverse from the promontory is Wylfa View (7m VD). It follows a series of slabby grooves with pleasant climbing.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Boot Zawn
Date of ascent : 10/02/10
Route name : Spliff
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres RIGHT of the descent corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the wide dark groove and continue up the left side of the arete above to gain the finishing terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Boot Zawn
Date of ascent : 10/02/10
Route name : Gridba
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Spliff.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the quartz-flecked wall to a ledge below a square overhang. Step left and follow a ramp up rightwards to gain the finishing terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 12/02/10
Route name : To the Point
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
7 metres right of Buntline Special is an inlet whose right-hand corner comprises a steep, crumbling chimney. Cross the inlet (lowmid tide and a calm sea recommended); and belay on ledges 4 metres above the sea and below the crumbling chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Step right and climb an arete and continue up the shallow groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 12/02/10
Route name : Outland
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
75 metres left (East) of Tsunami Zawn is another zawn characterized by a large "island", whose seaward end forms a stack. This route takes a line up the slabby flank of the stack facing Tsunami Zawn; gained by quickly crossing mid-tide ledges. Start below the obvious line of leftward-trending cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the leftward-trending cracks up the slabby flank of the stack. DESCENT:- Go to the seaward end of the stack and descend a series of large brittle holds on the same flank as the route you have just climbed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 12/02/10
Route name : Ozland
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Outland.

Pitch descriptions:
4b. Climb up rightwards to a large sloping ledge on the arete. From where a stiff pull on doubtful holds gains the summit.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 04/03/10
Route name : Silva Crack
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right-hand (Western) descent for Tsunami Zawn is more convoluted than the guidebook indicates; involving the descent of a green wall at the tip of the promontory (5m VD). Start 5 metres right of this descent below a flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the steep flake crack.

Additional info:
Almost a Deep Water Solo at high tide!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 04/03/10
Route name : Greenbeard
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of the Western descent, 5 metres left of Silva Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
A pleasant excursion, especially at high tide. Traverse left for 3 metres to gain an arete, then follow the bearded flake crack on the left to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Breakwater Quarry
Date of ascent : 04/03/10
Route name : Softly, Softly
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
At the top of the first steep rise of the Landrover track from the car park, is a stepped, broken buttress on the right. The main features are a pinnacle block on the left, a yellow wall just right, and right again a left-slanting crack with a path leading up to it! Start at the foot of the left-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. A good line on worsening rock! Climb the left-slanting crack, and at its top, step right onto a glacis. Trend up rightwards taking the stepped corner on loose rock.