Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Mike Gutteridge
Area : Cwm Silyn
Crag : Craig Yr Ogof
Date of ascent : 26/05/2007
Route Name : Fair to Middlin
Length/grade/stars : 83m VS
Climbers : John Martin, Mike Gutteridge
Start location:
Approach as for Ordinary Route and start at the
pedestal.
Pitch descriptions:
30m 4b
Climb straight upwards via several steep little
walls to belay on a block above the traverse of
ordinary route.
26m 4c
Climb the steep slab above to pass the left hand end
of the overlap with caution - possible belay to the
right. Climb straight up the slab above to belay in
a niche above and left of a steep patch of grass.
27m 4c
Climb the right slanting groove until 4m below the
large down pointing spike. Traverse delicately left
to a quartz ledge and up a faint rib to a jutting
block. Belay above at the left hand end of the large
capping roof of the slab.
Additional info:
The route manages to avoid most of the current
routes by climbing directly up the centre of the
slab (crosses the direct route in a few places).
There is a quantity of suspect rock at the overlap
halfway up pitch two. |
Submitted by : Harold Walmsley
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Llechog
Date of ascent : 13/06/2009
Route name : Variation on Zarquon Resurrection Erection
Length/grade/stars : 30 m HVS 5a
Climbers : Harold Walmsley
Start location:
Start at top of Pitch 1 of Zarquon
Pitch descriptions:
P2 variant 30 m 5a (1 move only) Climb the corner above the stance for a few m then cross the slab and go up to a spike. Gain and climb the flake crack above and L and exit slightly R up a small slab to grass ledges. Follow these L to join Resurrection in a vegerttated area at the foot of the R facing groove of P3.
Additional info:
The description of p2 Zarquon in the definitive guide is quite poor. It gives no indication of the level at which to cross the slab. The selected climbs guide (non CC) is better (it says go low). We only had the definitive guide with us and chose to cross much higher. It gave an OK pitch with only 1 hard move to cross the slab. It seems a bit more direct than Zarquon p2 which seems to sneak off round the L arete. I am sure others must have made the same mistake. It might be the better line? Incidentally the 3rd pitch of Resurrection seemed much harder than the given grade of 4c (I would say 5bc). It would seem very tough for HVS! The moves were almost as hard as those on the Erection finish although there were rests between each move. |
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