New Routes - Carneddau & Crafnant

Submitted by : Simon Gwyn Roberts
Area : Ogwen (Carneddau 1993 guide)
Crag : Tree Slab, Carnedd y Filiast
Date of ascent : 12/05/2008
Route Name : Crystalline Crack
Length/grade/stars : 35m/120ft, HVD, 0
Climbers : Simon Gwyn Roberts, Alwyn Williams
Start location:
Takes the obvious left-most crack on Tree Slab (between Friction and White Lightning - routes detailed in the 1993 Carneddau guidebook). Tree Slab is the small, steep slab to the right of the Filiast Slabs (left of Red Slab).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb straight up to the quartz-lined crack on the left of the slab. Climb the crack past two trees to a ledge and possible belay. Finish direct up the juggy arete.

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Carreg Mianog - far right hand buttress (rally lower Creigiau Hirion)
Date of ascent : 22/05/2010
Route name : Bitter Hop
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E1 5ab, one star
Climbers : John H Bull
Start location:
New crag. Approach as for Carreg Mianog, but pass underneath and head for a clean buttress up and right (687621), with a clean slabby south face and a blunt nose on the right. Good, compact rock - excellent on this route.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 30m. Romp up the obvious rightward-slanting crack to a thread. Move left and up to a small ledge, aiming for a groove left of the main nose, then wonder why you ever came. The groove above appears daunting but holds appear as height is trepidatiously gained. Not sure that the grade reflects the real difficulties, felt bold for E1, but then I'm a wimp.

Additional info:
Onsight

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Carreg Mianog - far right hand buttress (rally lower Creigiau Hirion)
Date of ascent : 22/05/2010
Route name : The Petrified Florist
Length/grade/stars : 14m, HVS 5a
Climbers : John H Bull, unseconded
Start location:
New crag. Approach as for Carreg Mianog, but pass underneath and head for a clean buttress slightly up and right (687621), with a clean slabby south face and a blunt nose on the right. Good, compact rock.

Pitch descriptions:
1. Start at the left hand end of the buttress, climb a groove and rather heathery crack to a stiff exit. Several small-mid-sized cams useful.

Additional info:
Some minor gardening on ab.

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 03/07/2011
Route name : Mab Y Maen
Length/grade/stars : 25m,Severe
Climbers : Wyn Williams, Owain Williams
Start location:
On B5106 from Llanrwst turn left before the pub 'Y Bedol', continue up to park at road end at 732663. Walk past the dam to Hafod y Rhiw then leave quarry track right as it starts ascending continuing to the farthest dwelling in the cwm,Cwm Eigiau Cottage, walk past to a stile and ascend steeply on grass before traversing over scree and boulders to base of crag.

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch, Rhyolitic ashflow tuff. Facing crag with gully on left start three meters right of gully. Step onto small niche and ascend to bottom of groove via small spike, ascend short wall and exit right through niche.

Additional info:
Traditional.

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 03/07/2011
Route name : Tess
Length/grade/stars : 25m, VS ,1star
Climbers : Owain williams, Wyn Williams
Start location:
On B5106 from Llanrwst turn left before the pub 'Y Bedol' continue up to park at road end 732663. Walk past Hafod Y Rhiw then leave quarry track right as it starts ascending, continuing to the farthest dwelling in the cwm, Cwm Eigiau Cottage, walk past to a stile and ascend steeply on grass before traversing right over scree and boulders to bottom of crag. Descend by going up from top of crag and turning left and return down steep grass.

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch, 25m, 4b.facing crag with gully on left start one meter right of gully. Ascend short wall to large flake, continuing up right of vegetated groove to small stance under steep wall marked with white spot; exit left via groove.

Additional info:
Traditional

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Greeny
Length/grade/stars : 25m, VS
Climbers : Owain Williams, Simon Jones, Wyn Williams, Gareth Pritchard
Start location:
Approach as for 'Tess'. Start route between 'Tess' and 'Mab Y Maen'

Pitch descriptions:
Go up boldly for three meters directly up to cracked block. Ascend block directly to small stance. Continue up through niche right of wall with white spot over flake.

Additional info:
New crag,first ascent.

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Mab Y Maen Direct Finish
Length/grade/stars : 25m, HVS
Climbers : Owain Williams, Simon Jones, Wyn Williams, Gareth Pritchard
Start location:
Approach as for 'Tess' and 'Mab Y Maen'

Pitch descriptions:
Take the line of Mab y Maen to top of cracked wall finishing up wall left of niche.

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Garabiner
Length/grade/stars : 28m, VS
Climbers : Gareth Pritchard, Wyn Williams, Simon Jones, Owain Williams
Start location:
Approach as for 'Tess' and 'Mab Y Maen'. Start three meters down and right of 'Mab y Maen' either in small gorse bushes or step up onto small incut ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow obvious crack which divides butress centrally all the way to the base of groove of 'Mab y Maen',continue up groove and exit niche of 'Mab Y Maen'

Additional info:
Trad, first ascent.

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : J.L.S
Length/grade/stars : 25m, HS
Climbers : Simon Jones, Owain Williams, Wyn williams, Gareth Pritchard
Start location:
Approach as for 'Tess' and 'Mab Y maen'. Start up and right of 'Garabiner' at large incut triangle.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow crack left of triangle up to obvious small square hole. Mantle onto ledge above, move slightly right and ascend bulge on good holds up to spike.

Additional info:
Trad, first ascent

Submitted by : Wyn Williams
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Cwm Eigiau Cottage Crag, Craig Eigiau (71420,64163)
Date of ascent : 01/09/2011
Route name : Ysbryd Cedryn
Length/grade/stars : 25m, V Diff
Climbers : Wyn Williams, Stephanie Meakin
Start location:
Same aproach as for 'Tess'

Pitch descriptions:
2 pitches. 1st pitch 12m: Start as for J.L.S. Go up to thin fallen block,ascend groove and continue up to left hand side of small roof. Traverse right to belay on large ledge. 2nd pitch 13m: Ascend crack at back of wall, continue up slabby rock to belay well back.

Additional info:
Trad route. Ledge is escapable at top of pitch one.