Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Ben O'Connor
Area : West Cornwall
Crag/Section : Aire Point/south facing main wall
Route Name : Peppered monkey
Length, grade, stars : 20 meters, Hard Severe
(4b)
Approach/Descent:
As listed in current guidebook (2000).
Pitch descriptions:
Single Pitch
Start as you would for Landing Strip, continue directly
up by jamming the right side of the bulge, lay back on the large
flake above, and finally jam up the last crack to gain access
to the ramp above.
Climbers names : Ben O\'Connor, Steve Parry
Date of ascent : 23/05/2006
Additional info: none |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall, The Lizard
Crag : Vellan Head, Africa
Date of ascent : 03/02/2007
Route Name : Hacuna
Length/grade/stars : 40 metres, E4, 6a, 4a 1
Climbers : P R Littlejohn, I M Peters
Start location:
This newly developed area lies on the E side of
Vellan Head itself, which is some 500 metres E of
the established climbing on Hidden Buttress. The
headland consists of a broad, broken ridge ,
easy-angled at first but steepening and narrowing as
it descends. The W (Left facing out) is made up of
slabs broken by horizontal breaks.
Scramble easily down broken rocks on the W side of
the headland to a terrace above more substantial
gentle slabs. Continue down diagonally left to a
spur which allows easy access to the base of the
cliff. Ledges (sea-washed at half tide or when a big
sea is running lead back right towards the
overhanging seaward nose of Vellan Head itself. At
higher tides, a straightforward abseil from blocks
on the crest of the ridge lands on ledges just E of
the nose.
The E side of Vellan Head consists of an area of
seemingly easy-angled slabs - Africa Slabs extending
for 150 metres, where a number of low to mid grade
routes have been climbed.
The Nose itself is much steeper, the most obvious
feature being the series of slanting offset corners
taken by Hacuna.
Pitch descriptions:
P1 25m 6a Pull steeply up the first overhanging
corner to a resting ledge below the next offset
corner. Tenuous moves up this lead to better holds
up and to the right. Move right to the next corner
and climb this to pull out onto the crest of the
ridge. Belay on a large ledge 5m up the ridge. It is
possible to scramble off to the right.
P2 15m 4a. Climb the crack above then the more
broken rocks above.
Additional info:
On sight, ground up ascent. No fixed gear. |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall, The Lizard
Crag : Vellan Head, Africa Slabs area
Date of ascent : 03/02/2007
Route Name : Matata
Length/grade/stars : 40 metres E3
Climbers : P R Litllejohn, I M Peters
Start location:
Approach as for Hacuna. The route takes the steep
wall and blunt rib 5 metres left of the corner of
Kalahari (see below). Start at the base of the wall
below a horizontal crack and roof at 6 metres
Pitch descriptions:
40 metres 5c
Gain the crack, then move left to the rib. Pull
steeply over the small roof (crux) and climb
diagonally up and right to the base of a shallow
groove just left of the rib. Follow the groove and
pull over to better holds. easier climbing leads to
ledges and a belay
Additional info:
The crux is well protected by Friends, but spaced
protection above. |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall, The Lizard
Crag : Vellan Head, Africa Slabs
Date of ascent : 09/2005
Route Name : Kalahari
Length/grade/stars : 40 metres, VS
Climbers : I M Peters, D Hillebrandt, B Peters
Start location:
Approach as described for Hacuna. The route takes
the first obvious groove to the right of the
conspicuous stepped corners of Hacuna
Pitch descriptions:
40 metres, 4c
Climb the groove, moving onto the left wall where
the groove curves to the left. Steeper moves on
flakes lead to an easing of the angle. Continue
direct to the crest of the ridge.
Additional info:
No known repeats |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall, The Lizard
Crag : Vellan Head, Africa Slabs
Date of ascent : 09/2005
Route Name : Shark's Fin
Length/grade/stars : 40 metres, HVS, 1
Climbers : I M Peters, D Hillebrandt, B Peters
Start location:
As for the previous routes. The next major feature
to the right of the Kalahari groove is a slanting
roof at 18 metres. Start below the roof.
Pitch descriptions:
40 metres, 4c. Climb slabby rock at first on the
right then up and left onto a sloping ledge beneath
the left side of the roof. Move left around the rib
and then climb the steep arête on good holds to
finish up a shallow corner in the slabs above.
Additional info:
An enjoyable route despite a distinct lack of
protection |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall, The Lizard
Crag : Vellan Head, Africa slabs
Date of ascent : 09/2005
Route Name : Liberia
Length/grade/stars : 30 metres, S
Climbers : I Peters, B Peters, D Hillebrandt
Start location:
As for previous routes. Avoids the slanting roof by
a line at its right hand end. Start at the base of a
shallow groove below the roof.
Pitch descriptions:
30 metres, 4a. Climb easily up the groove, stepping
right below the roof and move up right to gain
easier slabby rock, leading to ledges and nut belays
Additional info:
Again, sparsely protected but straightforward when
dry, lethal if wet! |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge.
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : Monkey Magic
Length/grade/stars : 15m E1 (1)
Climbers : Bob Peters, Colin Struthers
Start location:
From the Count House, take the Coast Path above
Commando Ridge and pass through a gate to the
flat-topped rocky Osborne's Carn on the right. Go
down the r/h side (facing out) through another gate
and follow a faint path which leads to the foot of
Rosemergy Ridge and the Monolith Slab. Bear left
towards the "finger" above Brandy's Zawn and contour
leftwards for 100m to reach the slabs. The upper
slab is easy angled, whilst the lower is split by an
obvious cleft. Routes are described from L - R.
Pitch descriptions:
Start beneath the left hand arete of the slab.
15m 5b. Climb the rib direct with the crux at the
top.
Additional info:
Brandy's Slabs.
These diminutive but delectable slabs are hidden
away at the foot of the broken ridge of Osborne's
Carn 100 metres S of the prominent "finger" above
Brandy's Zawn. Despite a somewhat tortuous descent,
they are well worth a visit, especially if combined
with a climb or two on the neglected Monolith Slab
of Rosemergy Ridge. |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : Guacamole Jeff
Length/grade/stars : 17m V.Diff
Climbers : Alan struthers, Colin Struthers
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
17m Climb the obvious cracks near the left hand
arete of the slab.
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : Monkey's Breakfast
Length/grade/stars : 17m Severe
Climbers : Iain Peters, Martin Mandel
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
17m 4a Start below the obvious cracks near the
left hand arete of the slab.
climb rightwards then direct up the middle of the
slab.
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : Monkey's Lunch
Length/grade/stars : 15m Severe
Climbers : Martin Mandel, Iain Peters
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
15m 4a. Climb the groove in the centre of the
slab, finishing up the thin crack
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 29/07/2007
Route Name : Hurdy Gurdy Arête
Length/grade/stars : 15m H Severe
Climbers : Mark Hounslea, Rob Hastings, Bob Peters
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
15m 4b. Climb the sharp arete forming the left
side of the cleft
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : Monkey Business
Length/grade/stars : 18m E1 (1)
Climbers : Iain Peters, Martin Mandel
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
18m 5a/b. Climb the right arete of the cleft.
Nice, technical slab climbing but unprotected.
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : Gorilla Groove
Length/grade/stars : 18m HVS
Climbers : Martin Mandel, Iain Peters
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
18m 5a. Climb the slabby groove to a heather
finish.
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Brandy's Slabs - Brandy's Zawn/Rosemergy
Ridge
Date of ascent : 27/07/2007
Route Name : None
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : Martin Mandel, Iain Peters
Start location:
As for previous route (Monkey Magic)
Pitch descriptions:
18m 5a. Start up the wide crack forming the
leaning flake. Swing round right onto the front face
and finish up a thinner crack.
Additional info:
As for Monkey Magic |
Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall - North Coast
Crag : Robin's Rocks
Date of ascent : 01/08/2007 (02/08/2007)
Route Name : Flip-Flop
Length/grade/stars : 20m H Severe
Climbers : Mark Hounslea (solo). Crocs Continuation
- Iain Peters, Clive Davis, Bob Peters
Start location:
As for Robin's Rocks. Lowish tide. The route lies on
the slabs left of Sensible Shoes
Pitch descriptions:
25m 4b. Start. On narrow ledges at the base of
a slabby corner immediately above a tidal pool 20m
left of the groove of Sensible Shoes.
Traverse right then up and across a slab to an
undercut nose. Climb the corner to its left to the
top.
The Crocs Continuation.
15m 4b. At the undercut nose, swing right and
follow the slabby arete to the top.
Additional info:
Similar in concept but easier than Sensible Shoes. |
Submitted by : Charlie Pickin
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Bosigran, Landward Cliff
Date of ascent : 17/06/2006
Route Name : Holiday Slab
Length/grade/stars : 18m MVS
Climbers : Charlie Pickin, Lara Pickin
Start location:
The crusty inset slab 3m to right of first pitch of
Picnic
Pitch descriptions:
18m 4b
Climb directly up the middle of the slab to the
cracked overlap. Surmount the overlap at a point
between the cracks, and continue confidently in the
same line.
Additional info:
Presumably someone must have scrabbled this way
before, but I think still worth recording. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard, Predannack Head
Date of ascent : 21/05/07
Route Name : Start the Week
Length/grade/stars : 50m Very Severe
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
A good exploratory route up the left side of the
crag. Start from a small ledge behind a huge boulder.
Pitch descriptions:
1 30m 4b Climb the groove/crack to a handrail
traverse leading leftwards below a bulging wall.
Having cleared the bulge climb up and rightwards to
a stance.
2 20m 4c Follow the L-ward trending crack above,
step left and take the obvious line past a bulge to
the top.
Additional info:
The crag on the tip of the headland is quite
extensive. Routes described can be reached between
Low & half tide. Scramble down the front of the
headland to a large ledge 25m above some shelves of
rock which are above HT mark. Abseil in from good
threads (or climb down at VDiff - care with rock). |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard, Predannack Head
Date of ascent : 21/05/07
Route Name : Raconteurs' Route
Length/grade/stars : 45m Hard Severe *
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
Probably the easiest line on the cliff. At mid-tide
or below, traverse right from the non-tidal ledges
beneath the cliff to an obvious pillar at the base
of the main face. The route follows the crack rising
rightwards from the top of the pillar.
Pitch descriptions:
1 25m 4a/b Climb the crack to a steepening at 18m
then trend left to a stance.
2 25m 4b Pull straight over the bulge on good holds
then follow the crack on the open slab, bearing left
to pass the final nose. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Vellan Head, Africa Slabs
Date of ascent : 23/05/07
Route Name : Midnight Wall
Length/grade/stars : 50m E4 *
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
The impending black wall N of the slabby area gets
the sun from mid afternoon. Start below the obvious
niche on the right hand side of the wall.
Pitch descriptions:
1 25m 6a Climb to the niche, make a hard move to
break out and continue very steeply to a large
sloping terrace.
2 25m 5c Move left and climb the steep arête till it
eases. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Vellan Head, Hidden Buttress
Date of ascent : May 2007
Route Name : Falconer
Length/grade/stars : E4 6a
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn
Additional info:
Repeated The Falconer, which after the rockfall is
now the only route taking the central part of the
cliff. Still E4 6a and good climbing till the rock
quality deteriorates near the top forcing you to
escape rightwards. Serious. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Nantivet Cliff OS ref SW 682 135
Date of ascent : 22/05/07
Route Name : Give and Take
Length/grade/stars : 60m MXS
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
The only apparent breach in this 'impregnable'
cliff. Begins enjoyably.
Pitch descriptions:
1 8m Traverse right to belay at a big hidden crack
splitting the bulge.
2 52m 5b Climb through the bulge and follow the
groove pleasantly on to the upper wall. Continue
directly up the continuation groove, trusting
nothing, to reach poor belays at the cliff edge.
Additional info:
500m NW of Kynance Cove, a big barrel-shaped crag
forms the back of a small bay enclosed by the
rounded sea stack of Nantivet Rock. On the left (NW)
side of the crag a broken area of low-angled rock
forms a corner with the main mass. Approach by
abseiling 50 down the slabby rock to ledges near the
base of the corner. From about 2hrs after LW it is
possible to traverse right across huge boulders
beneath the cliff till they end at a flat rock. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard, The Horse
Date of ascent : 22/05/07
Route Name : Queen of the May
Length/grade/stars : 45m HVS 5a ***
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
A rare beauty. Around to the right of Tie That
Crittur Down is a short groove leading to a
pedestal. Solo up to belay at the base of the
groove.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb on to the pedestal, step up left then trend
right to a good crack before bearing left again to
the edge of the face. Finish directly up the yellow
rib leading to the apex of the long groove on the
right. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard, The Horse
Date of ascent : 24/05/07
Route Name : Sport of Kings
Length/grade/stars : 50m E3 5c ***
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
Right of Queen of the May is a long groove giving a
brilliant sustained pitch. Belay 4m down right from
QotM.
Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 6m then climb the wall to a bay
below the groove. Step left then follow the groove
all the way, sometimes using the left wall. |
Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard, The Horse
Date of ascent : 23/05/07
Route Name : Paleface
Length/grade/stars : 25m E4 6a *
Climbers : Pat Littlejohn, D Garner
Start location:
Dropping directly from the 'summit' of The Horse on
the South side is a silvery-coloured wall giving
unusual climbing for The Lizard - technical &
balancy.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove leading to the wall; make difficult
moves using a thin edge then step left and bridge
the shallow groove until it is possible to step
right to easier ground. |
Submitted by : Tom Wright
- see comment below
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Bosigran main cliffs
Date of ascent : 09/04/2008
Route Name : Tom and Jerry's indirect finish to
autumn flakes
Length/grade/stars : 180ft, E1 5b, 2 stars
Climbers : Tom Wright, Jeremy Goodchild
Start location:
Start at the bottom of autumn flakes.
Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1: 20ft(4a) Pitch 2: 65ft(4a) Pitch 3:
95ft(5b)
For Pitch 1 and 2 follow the first 2 pitches of
autumn flakes. For the last pitch go straight up
from the second belay position and over a rounded
rock with a thin crack in the middle (crux move).
Then finish up the last pitch of Broadstairs.
Additional info:
Traditional
Comment submitted by Andy March:
I repeated this on the 3rd
May. I am confident that I followed the
description given, and I'm afraid it's absolute
rubbish !
- There is about 10 or
15 feet of independent climbing on the route -
the rest belongs to Autumn Flakes or Broadstairs.
- It's neither E1 nor 5b
- HVS 5a at most.
- It's absolutely
definitely not two stars! It doesn't actually
qualify as a route in my opinion, it's a minor
variation.
Normally this sort of
thing would get picked up by the next
guidebook/supplement writer, but a new 2* E1 on
the main cliff at Bosigran is likely to attract
a lot of attention in the meantime, and I'd hate
for other people to waste their time on this.
Comment by Iain Peters:
I would like to endorse
Andy March's comments on this "route". Whilst I
wouldn't want to discourage anyone from
exploring new lines, 'mature' crags like the
Main Face generally don't have many
undiscovered secrets except at the upper end of
the E grade. Broadstairs itself is one of the
more artificial routes on the crag, and the
middle sections of Autumn Flakes and Nameless
present a number of options. To my personal
knowledge the line described was being used by
many of us over 40 years ago to liven up a
day's instructing, but it never entered our
heads to record it.
It would also help the
guide writer if a new variation is
described only giving the pitch number and the
length of the actual variation not the whole
route. Sometimes significant variations are
given a name (viz. Boysen's Variant to Thin Wall
Special or The Chicken Run alternative on P1 of
the same route, but usually they are
just described as variations in the main text.
Sorry lads; better luck next time! If you're
looking for new routes in West Cornwall, get
yourselves into some of those deep dark zawns between
Rosemergy and Portheras. |
Submitted by : Charlie Pickin
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Bosigran, Landward Cliff
Date of ascent : 11 May 2008
Route Name : 40 Rib
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS 4b
Climbers : Charlie Pickin, Will MarrStart
location:
Start underneath the leftmost rib of the upper
buttress, 10ft up and left of start of exit pitches
of Oread, Alison Rib, at an overhang and a ramp
going up to the left.
Pitch descriptions:
Gain the good ledge, and pull onto the left-side of
the rib, which is climbed directly with interest.
Additional info:
Surely climbed before, but worth recording as a
slightly harder route up the top buttress |
Submitted by : Martin Haycock
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : The Lizard - Bass Point
Date of ascent : 18/05/08
Route Name : Bellicose
Length/grade/stars : 28m single pitch. E6 6b **/***?
Climbers : Martin Haycock (unseconded)
Start location:
Approach as for the Cull or Lazarus.
Pitch descriptions:
Bellicose takes the impressive seaward arête to the
right of Lazarus. Start from a projecting block
beneath the arête on its right hand side. Face-climb
up to a diagonal break, follow this leftwards to
gain the arête proper. Move up the arête to gain a
large flat jug (camolot 2), swing left to gain more
jugs and a good resting ledge. Step back left onto
the face and continue enjoyably to the top keeping
just left of the arête.
Additional info:
Headpoint - all gear placed on lead. |
Submitted by : Christian Jennings
Area : West Cornwall (2000), Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)
Crag : Halldrine Cove
Date of ascent : 20/04/2009
Route name : Limpet Shoes
Length/grade/stars : 20M, HVS 4b, 0 Stars
Climbers : Mark Roberts, Christian Jennings
Start location:
Start as for Limpet Slab and Inverted V-Groove
Pitch descriptions:
Start as for limpet slab but do not move for the arête, climb the slab
until the top. Great climbing with very sparse protection.
Additional info:
Trad ascent
Comment submitted by Richard McElligott:
I climbed this line as described above on the 20/09/2008 with fellow member Tony Williams. We didn't consider that it might be a new route at all. |
Submitted by : Mark Collins
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Penninis Head, Inner Head
Date of ascent : 11/06/2009
Route name : Rising Tide
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS 4a
Climbers : Mark Collins
Start location:
At the opposite corner to "Robin Bastard" on the block containing this and "The Alien". Descend via abseil.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack just left of the arete until it peters out at half height and then make a difficult move rightwards around the arete using a horizontal break to a vertical flake. Follow this to the top (crux).
Additional info:
On sight, ground up ascent. No fixed gear. |
Submitted by : Robert Mott
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Crowns Mine Cliff
Date of ascent : 30/05/2009
Route name : Arrow in the Eye
Length/grade/stars : 20 m, Severe , 0
Climbers : R. Mott, N.Wright
Start location:
Start midway between Dismembered Members and King Shark, below a buttress with a small overhang at 12 metres.
Pitch descriptions:
20 metres, 4a. Climb up the centre of the buttress, taking the overhang direct on good holds.
Additional info:
Unhalfbricking It and Norman Conquest repeated and grades confirmed. |
Submitted by : Martin Cathrow (Haycock)
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard, Pen Olver
Date of ascent : 29.09.09
Route name : Ivet the shewolf
Length/grade/stars : 15m, E1 5b * *
Climbers : Martin Cathrow, James Forbes
Start location:
Approach the pinnacle as for songs from a broken heart. The climb takes the centre of the landward side of the pinnacle. Start below the centre of the face at a mini crevasse.
Pitch descriptions:
Single Pitch. Follow the intermittent cracks up the centre of the face, and follow them where they curve rightwards to the arete, transfer onto the slab and climb easily to the summit.
Additional info:
on-sight |
Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : The Lizard, Coastguard Cliff, Hollywood walls
Date of ascent : 30/09/2009
Route name : Radio Head
Length/grade/stars : aprox 12 meters, S
Climbers : Phillip Matthews, James Hoskin
Start location:
Appraoch as for Hollywood walls. Route starts from the large lede on the descent route (described as the sun trap)
Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch 4a. Start on the left arete below a small overhang. Climb the small overhang to a crack, follow this into the groove. Climb up and left to the hanging arete above. Climb the wall on the left. Belay well back with nuts ( There are a number of nut placements to be found on the summit rocks.
Additional info:
This rock may well have been climbed previously but no record can be found! |
Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : The Lizard, Coastguard Cliff, Hollywood Wall
Date of ascent : 30/09/2009
Route name : Battle with an old mans beard!
Length/grade/stars : 40', HS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phillip Matthews
Start location:
Descent is as for Hollywood walls. Route starts from the large ledge on the descent (described as the sun trap). Route in wall above.
Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch 4b. Climb the centre of the wall followining the obvious crack line. Follow this to the large ledge above (some care needed with loosefragile rock). From the large ledge cotinue climbing through the plate like rock above. Nut belays well back on summit rock can be hard to find..
Additional info:
This is an obvious line and may have been climbed before but no record can be found.. |
Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : The Lizard, Coastguard Cliff, Hollywood wall
Date of ascent : 30/09/2009
Route name : Lifeboat Callout
Length/grade/stars : 40', VS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phillip Matthes
Start location:
Descent is as for Hollywood walls. From the large ledge on the descent to holywood wall(described as the sun trap).
Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch 4c. Climb the wall to the right of the obvious crack line (battle with an old mans beard!). Climb to an obvious large hold at around 10'. From this continue directly above to the large ledge and join the final part of the previous route. Gear is better than it looks from below although care is required, small wires useful along with friend placements in unusual pockets..
Additional info:
possibly a new line? |
Submitted by : James Forbes
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Lizard Pen Olver
Date of ascent : 29/09/2009
Route name : Liquid Lizard
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E1 5b, 1 star
Climbers : James Forbes, Martin Cathrow
Start location:
Approach and head towards the start of Vumba, the climb takes the obvious crack line 3m right of vumba in the middle of the wall.
Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch. start 2m right from Vumba, follow a rising flake traverse rightwards to reach a small ledge. Step back left and follow the obvious crack over the bulge. Continue up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to the arête. Finish easily up this.
Additional info:
on-sight |
Submitted by : Dave Wilkinson
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Velan
Date of ascent : 02/10/2009
Route name : Opt-out
Length/grade/stars : 28m, VS, no stars.
Climbers : Richard Amor-Wilkes, Dave Wilkinson (both CC)
Start location:
As for Kurtzer
Pitch descriptions:
1 28m, 4bc Take the left-hand start of Kurtzer to its junction with the original start. Avoid the steep corner by traversing left to a narrow left-slanting gangway, which is followed until one can continue straight up to the big ledge
Additional info:
In the 2000 guide, the route Kurtzer is marked on the diagram in a way which does not match the text. Opt-out takes the line shown on the diagram. Could have been done before, could even be Kurtzer, in which case Kurtzer's description is way out. |
Submitted by : Dave Wilkinson
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Velan
Date of ascent : 2/10/2009
Route name : My Mule Don't Like You Laffin
Length/grade/stars :
Climbers : D Wilkinson, R Amor-Wilkes
Additional info:
This is a comment on an existing route. We thought the route well deserved its reputation for adventure quality and eccentricity. However, we thought the given technical pitch gradings (4a, 4c, 4a, 4c) were misleading, with two pitches considerably easier than the others. We thought all 4 pitches were equal. Suggest 4b, 4b, 4b, 4b. |
Submitted by : Dave Wilkinson
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Sperm, Terrace Cliff
Date of ascent : 04/10/2009
Route name : Four Directions, with direct start
Length/grade/stars : 41 m Severe, one star
Climbers : D Wilkinson, R Amor-Wilkes
Start location:
The approach from the coast path to the cliff top is by descending moderate angled grass to the saddle above Carn Boel and Carn Sperm. Suggest you delete the word "steep". We also suggest abandoning the original descent to Carn Sperm via the Lion's Den Zawn in favour of the alternative approach, which is actually quite straightforeward once you have found it. A better description: From the col above Carn Sperm, descend the grass slope facing Portdenack Point, straight down at first, then leftwards (facing out), till one can traverse left, then rise to a small col, beyond which is a flat platform suitable for gearing up. A descendibg traverse left via short chimney-cracks and ledges leads to The Terrace, a wide level area strewn with huge blocks. Terrace Cliff lies above.
Pitch descriptions:
1 6m 4a Start 2m left of Bitter End. Climb the buttress by a slim groove to the stance below pitch 2. 2, 3 and 4 As in 2000 guide.
Additional info:
Much better than starting up Bitter End, and should supercede the original start. The crag as a whole gives better climbing than its vegetated appearence would suggest. The hairy green lichen on the upper part scarcely gets in the way, as there are some fine lumpy holds. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Lands End
Date of ascent : 22/8/2009
Route name : Longships Corner
Length/grade/stars : 20m E3
Climbers : Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards & Andrea van der Wild
Start location:
Scramble down the slope to the top of Penwith Buttress. This new area is the area of newly exposed rock (1980's cliff collapse)found north of Penwith Buttres and just left (facing out) of Atlantic Ocean Wall. The area is further identified by a clean impressive wall with a right facing corner. Abseil down to sloping ledge.
Pitch descriptions:
20m 5b Climb the obvious corner to the top.
Additional info:
Crunchy rock found during ascent, some blocks cast into the sea. Climbed on-sight. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Lands End
Date of ascent : 9/8/2009
Route name : The First and Last Wall
Length/grade/stars : 30m E8
Climbers : Mark Edwards, Andrea van der Wild
Start location:
Approach as for Longships Corner.
Pitch descriptions:
30m 6c Climb a series of steps to a left facing flake crack. Climb the crack to its end. Climb the center of the obvious wall above to reach the start of a faint crack that leads to the top.
Additional info:
Lots of loose rock found and cleaned prior to ascent. The line is still not clear of some crumblyness, but is still an amazing and remarkable climb. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Lands End
Date of ascent : 9/8/2009
Route name : The Pirate
Length/grade/stars : 15m E3
Climbers : Mark Edwards, Andrea van der Wild
Start location:
As for Longships Corner
Pitch descriptions:
15m 5c From the flat ledge at the base of the abseil point, climb the obvious thin finger crack to a ledge. Continue up the short overhanging wall to the top.
Additional info:
Climbed on sight. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Sennen
Date of ascent : 2/8/2009
Route name : The Wipe Out Zone
Length/grade/stars : 15m E3
Climbers : Mark Edwards
Start location:
Approach by abseil OR by descending down rock steps below the platform, ans below Staircase. Traverse North and to the start of the route.
Pitch descriptions:
15m 5c From the flat ledge normally covered in seaweed, climb the open scoop on the right of the newly exposed wall since the destruction of Water Spout Chimney.
Additional info:
Soloed. Found to be very greasy. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Carn Boel Area
Date of ascent : 26/8/2009
Route name : Nederlands
Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS
Climbers : Mark Edwards
Start location:
Descend to the Sea Level Cliff.
Pitch descriptions:
15m 5b Climb the obvious crack line right of Journey to the Stones and left of the 5a overhanging corner described in the guide, but with no name.
Additional info:
Climbed solo and on sight. This area of rock is exposed after a recent rock fall. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Carn Boel Area
Date of ascent : 26/8/2009
Route name : Rattle
Length/grade/stars : 15m E1
Climbers : Mark Edwards
Start location:
Approach to the Sea Level Cliff. Start right of Journey to the Stones and left of the overhanhg 5a corner. Also left of a crack line and below a vague arête.
Pitch descriptions:
15m 5a Climb the lower wall via a vague arete to reach the start of a thin crack within the open scoop. Follow to the top.
Additional info:
Climbed solo and on sight. Found a couple of loose holds in the newly exposed rock since the rock fall. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Carn Barra
Date of ascent : 27/8/2009
Route name : Cometh the Sun
Length/grade/stars : 5m E1
Climbers : Mark Edwards
Start location:
Start below the short wall below Five Year Itch area, and below the left hand of two crack lines.
Pitch descriptions:
5m 6a Pull up into the cack and reach a horizontal break. Move left to follow the next thin crack to the large ledge. Can be used as a first pitch to Five Year Itch.
Additional info:
On sight solo with no pads. |
Submitted by : Mark Edwards
Area : West Cornwall - West Penwith
Crag : Carn Barra
Date of ascent : 27/8/2009
Route name : Mamluk
Length/grade/stars : 5m E1
Climbers : Mark Edwards
Start location:
As for Five Year Itch, and below a short wall at its base. Start below the right hand of two crack lines.
Pitch descriptions:
5m 6b Make a powerful move to reach a finger crack. Make harder moves up the finger crack to reach the ledge.
Additional info:
Climbed on sight with no pads |
Submitted by : Jacob Phillips
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : John Wayne Memorial Crag
Date of ascent : 13/12/09
Route name : Crack The Whip
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres, HVS 5b, 1 star?
Climbers : Jacob Phillips, Jowan Phillips
Start location:
As for John Wayne Memorial Crag.
Pitch descriptions:
Start as for 'Hit the Deck, Here She Comes' and follow this route until at the horizontal breaks then climb directly up the leftward leaning finger crack above to the ledge and finish as for 'Cowgirl'. The route is a variation finish and climbs the obvious direct crack instead of the brocken black crack of 'Hit the Deck, Here She Comes'.
Additional info:
A direct variation finish to 'Hit the Deck, Here She Comes'. |
Submitted by : Sara Scaife
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Evening Slabs - North Coast
Date of ascent : 24/5/2010
Route name : Bulldog
Length/grade/stars : 46 metres HVS 5b 0 stars
Climbers : S. J. Scaife, C. J. Griffiths
Start location:
See guide Evening Slabs (page 214) of West Cornwall, North Coast guide. Start 4m left of Notidwal (page 214 in guide) below a steep crack and overhanging groove.
Pitch descriptions:
A more interesting and dynamic entrance to the slabs.
1. 16m Climb the overhanging groove and then swing left onto the slab above. Continue leftwards up cracks and a smooth slab to a belay ledge in the middle of the slabs.
2. 30m Continue up and leftwards via slabs to the grassy exit. |
Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Predannack Head
Date of ascent : 30/06/2010
Route name : Hot Afternoon
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres, VS, no stars
Climbers : Andy March, Malcolm Brown
Start location:
Chopper is on the right side (facing in) of a broad zawn. On the left side of the zawn there are two prominent features; an unappealing chimney, and to its left a crack line which slants to the left slightly. This route takes that crack line. Approach by scrambling into the back of the zawn (past Chopper etc) then scramble up an easy slab on the left to its top, then downclimb easily to the base of the crack (low tide only).
Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 4c Climb the crack.
Additional info:
Climbed on sight. |
Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Zennor - Headlands Zawn area
Date of ascent : 25/06/2010
Route name : Second Round Knock-Out
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres, HVS, No stars
Climbers : Andy March, Des Hannigan
Start location:
Start between Lively Tide and Quagmire
Pitch descriptions:
5a. Climb the crack to the left end of the overhang, make an awkward move onto a projecting ledge, and continue up the steep wall above on positive holds.
Additional info:
Poor protection on the crux. |
Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Blocks Promontory
Date of ascent : 05/07/2010
Route name : What A Waste
Length/grade/stars : 24 metres, VS, no stars
Climbers : Andy March
Start location:
Start right of Blockhead, in the chasm.
Pitch descriptions:
4c In the left wall of the chasm (facing in) is a chimney. Climb this past two chockstones. Useful flakes on the right arete make it easier than it first appears. Avoid the final wedged boulder by finishing up the right arête. Escape as for Blockhead.
Additional info:
A useful companion to Blockhead. Blocks Promontory is in the West Cornwall area but not in the West Cornwall 2000 guide. Details are on www.javu.co.uk |
Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Crown Mine Cliff
Date of ascent : 19/07/2010
Route name : Rin Tin Tin
Length/grade/stars : 50 metres (to belays), E1, 1 star
Climbers : Andy March, Des Hannigan
Start location:
The obvious line of the cliff, the chimneygroove between Inroads and The Righteous Path. Start at the broad recess at the base of the line.
Pitch descriptions:
5b. Climb the steep crack at the left side of the recess then over a bulge to ledges. Step up then right to the chimney and up this until it narrows to a wide crack, and bulges alarmingly. A brisk pull leads to better holds and easier ground. Finish up steep grass to the upper mine building and the belays.
Additional info:
For the routes Inroads, Rin Tin Tin, and The Righteous Path, excellent belays can be found at the edge of the seaward wall of the upper mine building and just above the path beyond the building. A spare rope will be useful to reach these. Care is still required with some of the rock. Very large cams or hexes useful. Attempted on-sight, but gave up due to loose blocks. These were dealt with on an abseil before the successful ascent. |
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