New Routes - West Cornwall

New Guidebook Supplement published December 2010

Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Great Zawn, East Face
Date of ascent : 17/09/2010
Route name : Piledriver
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5a
Climbers : Andy March
Start location:
As per the existing guidebook description.

Pitch descriptions:
As per the existing guidebook description, but without the aid point on pitch 2. Pitches 2 and 3 best combined. The last pitch is better than it sounds, but a 60m rope is useful to reach good belays.

Additional info:
Climbed since the recent Supplement went to the printers. Possible first free ascent, who knows?

Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : West Cornwall Supplement
Crag : Whirl Pool Slabs (p21)

Route name : Various

Additional info:
Grey Trial, Indirect, Blood Smear Grades and descriptions confirmed

Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : West Cornwall Supplement
Crag : Penberth East (p82)

Route name : Various

Additional info:
Organ, Ex-File, Dog-Leg, A-Snip, Short Back & Sides, Gangway, Wavemaster, Minks Fart, Ducksoup, Tales of the Rusty Tramline, Postman’s Knock, Bionicle, New Bionicle Grades and descriptions confirmed Knights Climb considered nearer VS 4c confirmed A Tallant, N Barry. Excreasence hard for HS 4b, A Tallant, N Barry thought VS 5a.

Submitted by : Martin Dunning - comment
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Barra Upper Tier
Date of ascent : 03/02/11 - repeated
Route name : Edge Climb
Length/grade/stars : 32m, HVS 1star
Climbers : Martin Dunning, Steve Gibson
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
pitch 3 irrelevant; route warrants only one star for a good second pitch. HVS 4c

Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Bosigran
Date of ascent : 07/03/2011
Route name : Winklepicker
Length/grade/stars : 12 netres, E2/3 5c, no stars
Climbers : Andy March
Start location:
Start between "Better Than" and "Horse Riding" (which are on page 16 of the Supplement).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack mentioned in the Supplement. Tiny wires protect - take your reading glasses to see the placements.

Additional info:
Inspected by abseil, when a number of molluscs (winkles?) had to be removed from the crack.

Submitted by : Alexis Perry
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Sennen, Black Zawn
Date of ascent : 07/03/2011
Route name : The Tracks of My Tears
Length/grade/stars : E8? might be E7. Three stars.
Climbers : Alexis Perry
Start location:
Start where Tears of a Clown starts...

Pitch descriptions:
...and go straight up the middle of the wall to the top. Basically, this is the direct version of Tears of a Clown. Where Tears of a Clown goes right to the arête, this goes straight on up. It rejoins Tears of a Clown at the good gear in the middle of the face and finishes as for that route. 6c.

Additional info:
No fixed gear. Top-roped prior to lead. Gear placed on lead.

Submitted by : Barney Carver
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Logan Rock, Lad Cove
Date of ascent : 01/07/2001
Route name : Sink or Swim
Length/grade/stars : 35 feet Hard Severe 4c
Climbers : B. Carver (solo)
Start location:
This climb is located between Cliff Jumpers and Mothver.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the slab starting up a steep black vein and finishing up a short crack.

Additional info:
Climbed as an on-sight solo. The routes in this area are generally above deep water. I neglected to send the description of this route in when the Supplement was being compiled - sorry Andy!

Submitted by : Barney Carver
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Logan Rock, Lad Cove
Date of ascent : 01/07/2001
Route name : Tideline
Length/grade/stars : 35 feet Difficult
Climbers : B. Carver (solo)
Start location:
This climb is right of 99 Lead Balloons.

Pitch descriptions:
From the ledge make a short hand-traverse right to the crack on the right side of the slab, finish up this.

Additional info:
Climbed as an on-sight solo. The routes in this area are generally above deep water. Another one that I forgot to send in for the Supplement.

Submitted by : Pete Greening
Area : West Penwith - North
Crag : Rosemergy Ridge Area, Monolith Slab
Date of ascent : 23/4/2011
Route name : Deu Direct
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS 1 star
Climbers : Pete Greening' Jez Bolt
Start location:
As per guidebook

Pitch descriptions:
5a. Climb Deu, but instead of moving left to the niche, climb the blank looking wall above the crack to a small ledge to the left of the large hollow flake on Onen. Finish up the crack. More logical than the original line and with more bite.

Additional info:
A superb little crag that deserves more attention (or maybe not!). Probably done before?

Submitted by : Chris Griffiths
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : St Loy
Date of ascent : 27.3.2011
Route name : Fluffing Up The Midge
Length/grade/stars : 25 metres, VS 4b, no stars
Climbers : Chris Griffiths, Sara Scaife
Start location:
St Loy – Lower Tier. Approach from the little wall below Sloe Steel by bushwhacking seaward and easy scrambling down a left leaning ramp (facing out), then walking back right along the boulder beach. Midge Buttress stick out a little from the cliff and finishes below Finesse. It is approachable in all except the highest tides.

Pitch descriptions:
25m Climb the centre of Midge Buttress past several horizontal cracks (good protection) to a large ledge. The rock is a little crunchy, but better than it looks.

Additional info:
climbed on sight, no fixed gear

Submitted by : Chris Griffiths
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : St Loy - Upper Craglets - west one
Date of ascent : 27.3.2011
Route name : Midgey Kicks Ass
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres, HVS 5b, 1 star
Climbers : Chris Griffiths, Sara Scaife, Graham Everitt
Start location:
Approach by abseil, mean bramble bash from the right (facing in) or easyish ivyish scramble from above and west.

Pitch descriptions:
12m 5b Just to the left (facing in) of Parents, Priests, and Politicians is a steep crack, hand-jam this to the top. Enjoyable, strenuous and well protected climbing.

Additional info:
climbed after abseil inspection, no fixed gear

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Penwith South
Crag : Vessacks West
Date of ascent : 26/4/2011
Route name : Croust up
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS 5ab
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Miss Fallon Everitt, Justin foord
Start location:
start as for "Time for tiffin" (in supplement)

Pitch descriptions:
From the starting crack of TFT launch imediately right up the short steep wall to gain a standing position on the obvious jug. A tricky step left across the crack of TFT then up the pleasant wall just right of "Saskia"

Additional info:
Ground up, on sight

Submitted by : Paul Harrison
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Boscawen West
Date of ascent : 17.4.11
Route name : Boskenna Crack
Length/grade/stars : 15m Very Difficult
Climbers : Paul Harrison
Start location:
Routes are situated on a small sea level buttress approx 100m west of Boscawen Point and reached by scrambling down vegetated blocky terrain to a prominent block sitting cliff top.

Pitch descriptions:
The prominent wide crack in the centre of the cliff.

Additional info:
Solo

Submitted by : Paul Harrison
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Boscawen West
Date of ascent : 17.4.11
Route name : Boscawn Rose
Length/grade/stars : 15m E1 5b
Climbers : Paul Harrison, Mike Snell
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
The slim corner system at the left end of the cliff is climbed to a ledge. Step right to a tricky finish up a blind crack.

Additional info:
on sight

Submitted by : Paul Harrison
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Barra
Date of ascent : 20.4.11
Route name : un-named
Length/grade/stars : 25m E2 5c
Climbers : Paul Harrison, Tony Sawbridge
Start location:
Start just right of Hidden Gems

Pitch descriptions:
The arête right of Hidden Gems. Gain and climb the prominent flake crack to a ledge and a junction with the thin slanting cracks of Mental Breakdown. Follow these for a few metres before moving left to the arête. Climb this past a useful pocket to a tricky finish.

Submitted by : Paul Harrison
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Barra
Date of ascent : 20.4.11
Route name : Mental Breakdown Variation
Length/grade/stars : 25m E1 5b
Climbers : Paul Harrison, Tony Sawbridge
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
Gains the niche from the right by a strenuous heave up the leftward-slanting flake crack and a tough move into the upper crack. Slightly harder than the original but possible at high tide from the stance on Hampshire Zigzag

Additional info:
on sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall North
Crag : Bosigran seaward cliff
Date of ascent : May 15th 2011
Route name : Dang
Length/grade/stars : 45 m HVS 5ab
Climbers : Graham Everitt & Sara Scaife
Start location:
Start 2m left of dong on the dry bit of the usually damp ledge

Pitch descriptions:
1) 25m climb the short slab to a bulge with a l-r slanting crack (gear) move over the bulge leftwards and follow a thin crack that leads to twin black seams at the overhang and junction with ding , up and left through the overhang. continue up the slab rightwards to the belay of Ding.
2) 20m finish up the top pitch of Ding

Additional info:
on sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall North
Crag : Bosigran main face
Date of ascent : june 16th 2011
Route name : Dziecko Dziada
Length/grade/stars : E4 6a
Climbers : Wojciech Szymanowicz and Graham Everitt
Start location:
Start as for Doorpost direct

Pitch descriptions:
1)26m 6a. Up the short groove to a tricky move onto a sloping ledge, continue diecrect with dificulty up the thin crack between Dpd and Thin wall special to the steep black crack of Permanent waves, up this and on to the belay of Doorpost.
2) 10m. move down and right to the belay of doorway 3)20 m 6a. up the pillar above to below a square recess in the large roof, pull up into this and exit left out to the edge of the world and make a a difficult series of moves up the arête, continue direct to finish up the final zig zag crack of Toad wall special.

Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Wenven Cove
Date of ascent : 2008 spring
Route name : Wing and a Prayer
Length/grade/stars : 30m E34 5c
Climbers : Graham Everitt and Chris Griffiths
Start location:
Start right of Mien Kampf directly below the prominent perched block(the pulpit)

Pitch descriptions:
1) 30m 5c up the slab to the pulpit pass this on its lefthand side, take a seat and contemplate the headwall above(prayer), wings out and flutter up the steep crack above to it's end make wild moves up and leftwards on good but very dubious holds to a dramatic pull over the top.

Additional info:
On sight. some very large bits of rock came off the top during the fa and other bits that didn't remain unstable handle with care.

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall south
Crag : Chair Ladder
Date of ascent : Summer 2010
Route name : The Eliminati
Length/grade/stars : 38 m E3 6a
Climbers : Graham Everitt and Chris Griffiths
Start location:
As for the Spire

Pitch descriptions:
1) 38 m 6a up the initial crack of the spire to the ledge, continue staight up the corner to a tricky move over the roof, straight up the thin crack above to meet Bishops rib at the end of the traverse, continue direct up the the wall above between the twin cracks in the headwall, resisting the temptation to use either of them for holds or protection (blinkers required).

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall south
Crag : Trgiffian Slabs
Date of ascent : april 3rd 2011
Route name : Bolt Not to Be
Length/grade/stars : 22m hvs 5ab
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Start below a steep black cornercrack left of Thea

Pitch descriptions:
1) 22m 5ab .up the steep black cornercrack to a ledge, dificult moves up the thin crack in the slab above and on to the top.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Boswednack Cliff
Date of ascent : 2008 summer
Route name : Cross Examination
Length/grade/stars : 20 m E1 5b
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Chris Griffiths & Barnaby Carver
Start location:
As for No Justice

Pitch descriptions:
1) 20m 5b no justice to the ledge at 5m climb the wall left of lone justice direct to the top

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall south
Crag : Coffin Cove
Date of ascent : April 10th 2011
Route name : Wherever I May Roam
Length/grade/stars : 55m VS 4b
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Start at the sea level ledges below and 10m left (facing in) of the slanting ramp below the start of Wreckage

Pitch descriptions:
1)10m 4b climb a delightful short wall on perfect rock to a belay on the sloping ramp.
2)5m go down the ramp to the start of wreckage
3)30m 4b traverse right to the arête and up this until it is possible to enter a hanging groove on the left which is capped by a large flat block, up this and follow cracks and walls on the right to arrive at the top of a detached pinacle.
4)10m 4b make a leap of faith back to the main face and exit to the top via a corner crack on the right.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Bosigran seaward cliff
Date of ascent : 31/05/2001
Route name : Deng
Length/grade/stars : 50m HVS 5a
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Start just left of Belle below at an obvious breakcrack in the widest part of the overhang

Pitch descriptions:
50m 5a straight up to the overhang which is cleared by pleasant gymnastic moves, go up a short distance then diagonally right to cross short slant at a small overhang, step right onto the nose of the overhang and continue in a direct line up the shallow rib to to finish up a short corner.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Andy March
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Zennor - Cave Zawn
Date of ascent : 09/06/2011
Route name : Hobo
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres E1 5b, no stars
Climbers : Andy March
Start location:
Start about 3 metres right of Flying Doctor (Supplement page 10).

Pitch descriptions:
The right wall of the zawn has an obvious thin crack which curves slightly to the right. Climb the crack on good holds and with good protection.

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall south
Crag : Pellitras Point
Date of ascent : 11/6/2011
Route name : Only the Lonely
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS 4b
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
start below a shallow groove 3m left of "Alone again"

Pitch descriptions:
1) 15m 4b climb the pleasant well protected groove to finish direct up pleasant but poorly protected ledges in a distinctive red seam.

Additional info:
on sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Bosigran main face
Date of ascent : 14/6/2011
Route name : Menlove
Length/grade/stars : 55m E2 5c (1)
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
start just right of "visions of johanna at The direct star to doorway first done by JME in 1953 which continues up the grass filled corner

Pitch descriptions:
1)30m 5c climb up to the overhang and wrestle through the overhang on the right. step left onto the arête and proceed with difficulty up a thin crack and slight corner just left of the arête and contine over blocks to the stance of little brown jug. 2)25m 5c A direct veriation on the top pitch of little brown jug. climb the steep crack direct from the stance, past the old peg placement with out deviating left or right. continue up the crack direct untill it fades out in an overhung niche gymastic moves out right lead to ledge below a short overhanging crack in the headwall which leads to a final nervous mantle left of the final layback on LBJ.

Additional info:
on sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Bosigran seaward cliff
Date of ascent : 26/6/2011
Route name : Crazy Horse
Length/grade/stars : 50 m E3 5c (2)
Climbers : Graham Everitt and Justin Ford
Start location:
start as for Geronimo

Pitch descriptions:
)40m 5c Follow the obvious thin black diagonal seam with increasing difficulty to junction with geronimo and the end of the roof traverse, contiue more easily to the end of the seamand a good belay. 2)10m scramble to the top.

Additional info:
on sight

Submitted by : Tom Last
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : The Grove (Coverack)
Date of ascent : 13/07/2011
Route name : The Island Queen
Length/grade/stars : 8 metres, Hard Severe 4b
Climbers : Tom Last, Caroline Chick
Start location:
Located between South Face and Big Chief.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb steeply up the obvious flake crack left of Big Chief, to gain the L-R ramp. From the ramp, make exposed moves left and up to finish up the good crack. Good, steep, exposed and independent climbing.

Additional info:
Climbed on sight.

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : West Penwith south Black Carn north
Date of ascent : 03/07/2011
Route name : Neandertahl
Length/grade/stars : 18m HVS 4c
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Start at short groove on the right arête of "cro magnon" buttress

Pitch descriptions:
18m 4c climb the groove, exit left at the top and step back right up wide crack to rounded arête, finish up right side of sumit block.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Bosigran main face
Date of ascent : 23/07/2011
Route name : The Radjel
Length/grade/stars : 55m E3 6a 2 stars
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
Start at the right hand side of the cave flake left of nameless

Pitch descriptions:
1) 40m 6a climb direct to the arête that forms the left edge of the large bay of Beowulf, follow the arête to a ledge below a shallow left curving groove. Ascend this with dificulty to a horizontal break. step right onto a ledge and make tricky moves up and left onto the arête of the slab up this to a large ledge and belay.
2)16m 5c Step left as for p3 of Beowulf climb the slab on the right to steep cracks and a roof, pull though on the left and up a short wall to the top

Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil

Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall: North Coast
Crag : Carn Gloose, upper buttress
Date of ascent : 26/07/2011
Route name : Space Cadet
Length/grade/stars : 17m, VS, 1
Climbers : Bob Peters, Iain Peters
Start location:
As for Astral Stroll, but continue over the top of the Carn Gloose ridge on the coastal footpath. Just beyond 20m below the path is an obvious gently-sloping rock platform, the summit of the crag. Descend easy grass on the landward side. The cliff consists of a steep lichen-covered wall with a striking roof-capped groove right of centre. Both climbs start below this groove.

Pitch descriptions:
17m, 4c Start: at the base of the obvious V groove capped by a square-cut roof. Pull up into the groove which is followed to a niche below the roof. Step left then pull over on widely-spaced holds and climb the short rib above direct. Wire and block belays well back.

Additional info:
On sight. Although diminutive this little crag has excellent rock, similar to Zennor Head upper cliff, and the climbs themselves make a welcome diversion whilst waiting for the tide to get on Astral Stroll.

Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall, North Coast
Crag : Carn Gloose, upper buttress
Date of ascent : 26/07/2011
Route name : Astral Pidgeon
Length/grade/stars : 17m, E1, 1
Climbers : Bob Peters, Iain Peters
Start location:
As for Space Cadet.

Pitch descriptions:
17m, 5b Start: At the foot of the groove of Space Cadet. Pull up left and climb the wall direct on spaced holds to small ledges below steeper rock. Harder moves lead to a final delicate step into a short groove and the top. Wire and block belays well back

Additional info:
Loose blocks removed by abseil.

Submitted by : Iain Peters
Area : West Cornwall: North Coast
Crag : Gurnard's Head
Date of ascent : 26/07/2011
Route name : Korsakov
Length/grade/stars : 34m, XS,
Climbers : Iain Peters, Bob Peters, alt
Start location:
The route lies on the most seaward point of the Promontory, best approached by following the lower path on the NE side of the neck as far as a low crag of steep rock. Descend a grassy ramp down rightwards to boulders at sea level then scramble round to seaward beneath an impressive wall of striated rock capped by a large stepped roof. Continue for a further 15m to a wide corner with an obvious flake crack on its R wall.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 18m, 4c Climb up over ledges to the base of the corner proper, then go up the wall on the left and step left and up to thrift and grass ledges. Wire and Friend belays up and right. (Escape possible and maybe sensible here!)
2. 16m 5bc. A serious pitch. From the belay move up and left on curious protruding ledges to a thin crack in the centre of the wall. Follow this on deceptively steep rock and flat holds with increasing difficulty and lack of protection until a step right onto a detached flake brings gear and relief. Easier climbing to the top.

Additional info:
The route was climbed on sight, hence the grade. It may well be that cleaning the line by abseil prior to an ascent will reveal more in the way of holds andor protection. As it stands the top pitch is a serious and committing lead.

Submitted by : Geoffrey Odds
Area : West Penwith
Crag : Pendower Cove
Date of ascent : 07/1991
Route name : Stackolee Right Hand
Length/grade/stars : 25m, HVS 5a, O stars
Climbers : Geoffrey Odds, Nick Barraclough
Start location:
Approach as Stackolee.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the chimney as Stackolee but exit right onto a vein of decomposing rock and follow this without protection to the top. Or preferably don't!

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : West Cornwall north
Crag : Bosigran main face
Date of ascent : 06/08/2011
Route name : Wiley Cayote
Length/grade/stars : 55m E3 6a 2 stars
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ian Wilson(AL), Ruthie Everitt
Start location:
Start as the absolution

Pitch descriptions:
1)20m 5c+ follow the initial groove for 3m untill it is possible to hand traverse left past a blocky section, climb a clean slab via thin moves to a ledge. step left and up a crack to the Bay of Beowulf. belay.
2)20m 6a climb twin cracks in the left wall of the bay to the roof exit left to a ledge continue leftwards up a flake crack to a small roof which is cleared with dificulty up the arete on the slab above to a ledge.belay.
3)15m 5c move left as for Beowulf P3 step imediately right and climb the right arête of the slab via a short crack and layback flake to finish up a short step left of Paragon.

Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil

Submitted by : J Ford.
Area : West Cornwall North Coast
Crag : Robins Rocks
Date of ascent : 09/08/2011
Route name : Yosser Hughes
Length/grade/stars : 9 metres, hard severe 4c.
Climbers : J Ford, M Bradbury.
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Robin Hood, at the obvious stepped break in the rounded arête just left of the chank.

Pitch descriptions:
A good short, but steep warm-up route. Climb the stepped break to the ledge, step right and climb direct on good holds to finish.

Additional info:
On sight.

Submitted by : Tom Last
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Trewavas Island
Date of ascent : 18/08/2011
Route name : Twas Brillig
Length/grade/stars : 10m, VS 4c (DWS S0), 1 star
Climbers : Tom Last, Jamie Maddison
Start location:
From the saddle. Follow the boulder choke landward, then follow exposed ledges down and left (facing out) to descend into the peaceful zawn. (opposite Tinker, Tailor, Soldier and Spy)

Pitch descriptions:
Make a tricky traverse back left (facing in) and cross the wide greasy chimney, then climb the blunt arete via the breaks to a high crux. Slightly eliminate, but good climbing. Excellent, very deep water throughout.

Additional info:
Climbed on-sight. French grade is more appropriate for deep water solos, so about 4+

Submitted by : Ron Kenyon
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Gloose
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Astral Stroll - The Anti-Wus Option
Length/grade/stars : 25m - 5a
Climbers : Michael Kenyon, Ron Kenyon
Start location:
Alternative start - starting as for Astral Stroll.

Pitch descriptions:
1a (5a) Climb around onto the west face and move horiontally right. Descend a short crack and then horizontally right to joint pitch 2 and finish along this.

Additional info:
This was climbed in error to give a direct link to the 2nd belay and removes the ability to "wus out" and escape up High Frontier.

Submitted by : Paul Harrison
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Pedn Kei
Date of ascent : 19/08/2011
Route name : Over to the Dark Side
Length/grade/stars : 25m E2 5c
Climbers : Paul Harrison, Andy March
Start location:
At the southern end of the cliff is an undercut wall, this is on the south side of the 'steep, wet and repulsive zawn' mentioned in the guide and left of 'A Message from the Falselands'.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up to the prominent short, thin crack in the wall and climb it with difficulty to better holds at its end. Trend rightwards and move up to a large guano-stained ledge. Easier climbing leads up to a belay on the ridge.

Submitted by : Andy March - Warning
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Carn Cheer (Supplement page 40)
Date of ascent :
Route names : Cheer Up, Cloudbreak

Additional info:
A rockfall at about half height has affected the routes "Cheer Up" and "Cloudbreak". Approach with considerable caution, and report back if you climb either or both.

Submitted by : Tom Last
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Trewavas West Crag
Date of ascent : 30/09/2011
Route name : The Stars, Like Dust
Length/grade/stars : 7 metres, Hard Severe 4b, One star
Climbers : Tom Last, Bill Ward
Start location:
The hanging arête, left of Mantleshelf Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
HS 4b. Climb easily to the break, place some gear, and pull decisively onto the hanging arête which is followed to the top.

Additional info:
Climbed on-sight

Submitted by : Tom Last
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Trewavas West - Obvious sea crag, below the main mine area
Date of ascent : 30/09/2011
Route name : Foundation and Empire
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres, Very Severe 4c, 2 stars
Climbers : Tom Last, Bill Ward
Start location:
The cracked face of the crag is very obvious a sea level, below the main mine workings, when viewed from the west side of both West and East Crags On the approach from the main parking and once past the island, before reaching the west crag, descend down a track to the first of the two mines. Follow grassy slopes down the landward side of a large obviously walled flat area beside the mine. Contour around the hillside to drop down easy rocks, to large ledges above the route. Head back east and drop down to the easily accessible face (Tidal and subject to swell).

Pitch descriptions:
15 metres. From below the obvious crack. Traverse to seaward along the rising break on good holds to mantle onto a ledge. Move back up and right and into the crack, which is followed, using holds on the face, to a triangular cut niche and on to the top. Lovely, slightly bold climbing and a fantastic line and atmosphere. Holds and gear appear exactly where you need them. Great route!

Additional info:
Climbed on-sight

Submitted by : Pete Greening
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Polostoc Point
Date of ascent : 16/08/2011
Route name : Pete's Party Piece
Length/grade/stars : 12m, Diff, 2 stars
Climbers : Pete Greening
Start location:
As for guidebook approach, but instead of going below the jutting buttress of Wee Jammer, belay at the entrance of a short chimney, guarded by the obvious large, square spike on the left (looking in) of the Wee Jammer buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
12m Enter the chimney to gain, then follow a series of golden ledges that lead across the steep wall, with ever increasing exposure, to stand on a small ledge on the very edge of the arete (The Amazing Thing E4). Using a hidden hold, make a tense move up to gain better holds and easier climbing to the top.

Additional info:
on-sight solo. 2nd Ascent S Hinton (lead) 17 Aug 2011

Submitted by : Pete Greening
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Polostoc Point
Date of ascent : 17/08/2011
Route name : Lovers Groove
Length/grade/stars : 20m, Diff, No stars
Climbers : Sue Hinton, Pete Greening
Start location:
As for guidebook approach, but belay in the bay to the left of the Wee Jammer buttress, on a ledge that looks like the Arched Window from Play School, when viewed from above.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 10m. Climb directly up easy ground to belay on a horizontal fault line that splits the cliff, and below an obvious, narrow groove to the left (facing in)of a block tower with an obvious blind flake leading up its centre. 2. 10m. A stiff pull over a steepening gains the groove. Follow this to the top

Additional info:
on-sight

Submitted by : P Greening
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : Polostoc Point
Date of ascent : 17/08/2011
Route name : Lovers Wall
Length/grade/stars : 20m, Diff, No stars
Climbers : Pete Greening, Sue Hinton
Start location:
As for guidebook approach, but belay in the bay to the left of the Wee Jammer buttress, on a ledge that looks like the Arched Window from Play School, when viewed from above.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 10m. Climb directly up easy ground to belay on a horizontal fault line that splits the cliff, and below an obvious, narrow groove to the left (facing in)of a block tower with an obvious blind flake leading up its centre. 2. 10m. Climb the face of the block tower containing the blind flake.

Additional info:
on-sight

Submitted by : Dave Heaton
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : John Wayne Memorial Crag
Date of ascent : 26/01/2012
Route name : Reap the Wild Wind
Length/grade/stars : 7 Metres, E2, 1 star
Climbers : Dave Heaton
Start location:
From the top of the crag, approach via the right hand side facing out to sea. Walk towards the main seaward face. The route takes the overhung arete just before the main cliff.

Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch of 7 metres, 5c. This route takes the overhung arete just left of the main seaward face, the left hand side of which is completely black. Begin at the righthand end of the overhang on the seaward face. Pull up to a jug at the end of a horizontal break. Follow the break left on crimps to join the arete. From here, pop to a positive hold and stretch to the top. Harder for the tall.

Additional info:
Only 1 cam used to protect. Pre practiced on a top rope. Unrepeated.

Submitted by : Michael Govier
Area : West Cornwall
Crag : ST loy
Date of ascent : 03/02/2012
Route name : Floating on a cloud.
Length/grade/stars : 13m HS 4a 1 star
Climbers : Michael Govier, Dave Heaton
Start location:
Approach as to the main upper cliff, as you look at test piece buttress, the climb is approximately 75 meters left, on the wall with a ramp, the upper part of the ramp looks vegetated. And the wall is covered in lichen.

Pitch descriptions:
Start next to a block at the base of the ramp, climb the shallow corner, with ease till a ledge which is gained with a little difficulty, (with a little heather on). Then take the soaring crack line up utilising an exquisite lay back and a couple of finger locks, (protected by a couple of cams) till the top. The whole climb is covered with lichen, foot placements are key.

Additional info:
A few cams protect the majority of the climb, has been seconded. Onsite. Hand placed protection.