Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
| New Guidebook published July 2010 |
Submitted by : Dave Jury
Area : Symonds Yat guidebook p.239
Crag : Old Staple Edge
Date of ascent : 30/08/2010
Route name : Freeminers Crack
Length/grade/stars : 7 metres, Severe 4a, no stars
Climbers : Dave Jury, Wendy Jury
Start location:
2 metres right of 'In a Lonely Place' page 239 of 2010 guidebook.
Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch of 7 metres. Climb the rightward curving crack to reach an in situ rope and maillon lower off at large tree. Severe 4a.
Additional info:
Route cleaned on abseil (as quarried rock) prior to first ascent. Led on traditional gear. |
Submitted by : Dave Jury
Area : Symonds Yat p.239
Crag : Old Staple Edge
Date of ascent : 30/08/2010
Route name : Speculation Slab
Length/grade/stars : 7 metres, Hard Severe 4a, no stars
Climbers : Dave Jury, Wendy Jury
Start location:
4 metres right of 'In a Lonely Place'.
Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch of 7 metres. Hard Severe 4a. Similar technical grade of dificulty to Freeminers Crack but protection harder to arrange in the top section. Start at the lowest point of the slab and climb up via horizontal breaks, reaching in situ rope and maillon lower off.
Additional info:
Route cleaned prior to first ascent (quarried rock). Led on traditional gear. |
Submitted by : Henry Castle
Area : Symonds Yat
Crag : Staple Edge Quarry
Date of ascent : 12.3.2011
Route name : Side Job
Length/grade/stars : 18m, E2 5b
Climbers : Henry Castle, Steve Whitfield
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
Start as for The Future. Place high protection in the corner crack and swing out right to catch a pod in the vertical crack. Using a very small foothold at the bottom of the crack pull up (dynamically for the short!) to a higher pod. Climb up to the leaning, capping stone and traverse to it's left and the top. In-situ belay as for The Future
Additional info:
Cleaned first, then led free. |
Submitted by : Dave Jury
Area : Symond's Yat
Crag : Little Staple Edge (p.223)
Date of ascent : 2/4/2011
Route name : Woodpecker
Length/grade/stars : 12m, Severe, -, (0)
Climbers : Lead Dave Jury, 2nd Adrian Bidwell
Start location:
Approach as described in guidebook p.223. First climbs in this quarry. Climbs are on left hand end of the quarry.
Pitch descriptions:
1 Pitch,12 metres. Start by climbing the small slab to the left of the main buttress. Climb 2m and traverse round to the right to join the groove (a direct start is also possible). Climb the groove by the right arête. Climb over a nose and step right to the tree root finish shared with Bidwell’s Crack. Top out and tree belay. Low in the grade but take care with loose rock while the route settles down.
Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil. Traditional protection. |
Submitted by : Dave Jury
Area : Symond's Yat
Crag : Little Staple Edge p.223
Date of ascent : 2/4/2011
Route name : Bidwell's Crack
Length/grade/stars : 7 metres, 4a, (0)
Climbers : Lead Dave Jury, 2nd Adrian Bidwell
Start location:
Approach as per p.223 of guidebook. First climbs in this quarry. Climbs on left hand side of quarry.
Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch, 7 metres, 4a. From half way up the gully, ascend the thin crack that widens to split a small overhang. Take care with loose rock at the top. Top out and tree belay.
Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil. Traditional protection. |
including Area, Crag and Route Name.