New Routes - South Devon and Dartmoor

Pitch description:
22m. Gain and climb the obvious v-groove then easier ground trending rightwards to a finishing corner/groove.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Routes:
The Esoteric Apprentice   VS 4c
60ft. Follows the crackline steeply to a ledge. Move leftwards across the impending wall above then back right, easily up a short corner to ledges and belay. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 29.3.97 on-sight)

Gentle Arete   E1 5a *
60ft. To the right is a fine arete, undercut  at the base and easing in angle with a step near the top. Start on the left side, moving into a groove on the right side at about 20ft. Climb the interesting arete above gently with minimal protection. Thread belay well back on ledges. (F.A. Nick Taylor 29.3.97 on-sight)

Razor-back   E1 5a
65ft. Right again is an obvious groove-line which becomes more shallow towards the top.Climb this mainly by delicate bridging, past at least a couple of trust-worthy gear placements to a move rightwards onto a ledge. Regain composure, then finish directly up the continuation of the cornerline. Delicate, bold and exhilarating climbing up the next best line on the cliff after "Mental Block".
(F.A. Nick Taylor  27.7.97 on-sight)

Sow Séance   VD
150ft. Climb the ramp-like arete that forms the right hand side of the "Mental Block" bay, in its entirety,on the edge overlooking the sea. Reached by an easy traverse from "Mental Block" or low-tide boulder hopping.
(F.A. Nick Taylor  27.7.97 on-sight solo)

Pitch description:
A steep start leads to interesting lichen and climbing.

Additional info:
On-sight

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker - see My First Ascent Bum Start below.
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove Beach
Date of ascent : 24/04/2010
Route name : My First Ascent
Length/grade/stars : 5-8meters, V2 and 1 star, scary.
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L. Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees and follow the signposts Churston Cove

Pitch descriptions:
V2 Standing start which starts with a layback where you layback for around a meter then dyno across to a pocket and then hang on the sloper around shoulder width to the right of the pocket then there is a powerful move up to the next hold while hanging about 50cm up then you put you feet on a slopey hold right up near your chest then push with the legs to a big clear hold to then top out.

Additional info:
Bouldering

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove Beach
Date of ascent : 24/04/2010
Route name : Heave' High
Length/grade/stars : 8meters, V5 and 1 star, V.scary.
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the Left. Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees follow the signposts churston cove.

Pitch descriptions:
V2 Standing start straight into the crux of the overhang where you head over using a heal hook to the left then reach over the overhang to reach a difficult distant medium sized hold then use you heal hook to lift up and then go further to the right to then top out.

Additional info:
Bouldering

Pitch descriptions:
High ball boulder problem, V2

Additional info:
Highball boulder problem, no repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : First Fifteen
Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V2, 1
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The slab is the second from furthest slab facing fishcombe cove from, which is in sight from the beach the line starts to the right of the slab the topo gives a clear insight to what the route will entail.

Pitch descriptions:
Not very positive footholds on some of the route.

Additional info:
Highball boulder problem could be used as a practice trad climb.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 24/02/10
Route name : Observation
Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V3, 1
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Use the information on getting to churston cove, then use this information to get to the bottem of the climb. The slab is the second from furthest slab facing fishcombe cove from, which is in sight from the beach the line starts to the as far to the right of the of the slab. The problem traverses to the left of the route. Again the topo gives a clear insight to what the route will entail.

Pitch descriptions:

Additional info:
Highball, no repaeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : Ready to Rumble
Length/grade/stars : 7m, v2, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The slab is the last slab insight from the beach, situated just before a Limestone 6ft wall, the line is about 2ft from the small Limestone wall, but once again the topo shows a very clear view of what the climb entails

Pitch descriptions:
Use the Topo, the route is quite straight forward and scary.

Additional info:
High ball. No known repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 24/02/10
Route name : That's the spirit
Length/grade/stars : 5meters, V4, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The problem is situated right at the end of the rock walk facing the rest of the rocks and beach.

Pitch descriptions:
It has a terrible landing with bad placing for a boulderind pad, it makes the climb rather dangerous. The climbs basically follows the top of the boulder with the hands, walking hand over hand, with feet flat against the rock. can be wet, the routes is very powerful and pumpy.

Additional info:
Boulder problem, traverse, no known repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : Tidels high
Length/grade/stars : 9meters, V1, 0
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The climb is siuated opposite That's the spirit, cannot be climbed when high tide.

Pitch descriptions:
Good flat landing.

Additional info:
Highball boulderproblem, scary but easy.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 20/02/10
Route name : With Summer Berries and Cream
Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V4, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The routes are on the same slab as Die hard 10, First fifteen and Observation, but is more central than others.

Pitch descriptions:
It is very fingery and has lots of smeary foot holds on most of the route.

Additional info:
HHighball boulder problem, ladder style, no known repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 26/02/2011
Route name : Fizzy Strawberries
Length/grade/stars : 10m long, V0+, 0
Climbers : Sam Robinson
Start location:
At the top of the hill on the left of the Cove there are two sort of miniture quarries (and I mean miniture). Hike to the one nearest to the sea there is two faces on the one that is more featureless (unlike the other which is long steps)on the left of the face start and then traverse left.

Pitch descriptions:
Easy warm up problem. Very straight forward.

Additional info:
Boulder problem, Jake Perkes got the second and Ellis Butler Barker got the third.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 26/02/2011
Route name : Panic Attack
Length/grade/stars : 4 meters, V4, 2
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
The featureless face at the end of Fizzy strawberries.

Pitch descriptions:
Sit down start, use the tiny crimps to pull on to struggle to the top of the problem.

Additional info:
Boulder problem, No repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker - see original My First Ascent above.
Area : South Devon
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent :
Route name : My First Ascent Bum Start
Length/grade/stars : V4
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Starts at My First Ascent and sitting start instand of standing.

Pitch descriptions:

Additional info:
Bouldering with no repeats.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove
Date of ascent : 11/03/2011
Route name : Bring on the Pain
Length/grade/stars : V5
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. Start at the lowest part of the rock down the sheet of rock, start sitting and traverse right finish up the corner to top out which is scary. When climbing the problem stay as low as possible as this is the correct line if you get higher then it turns into about a V3 problem.

Pitch descriptions:
About 10 meters long and quite sharp rock.

Additional info:
Bouldering, No known repeats but quite possible.

Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Churston Cove, Tidel Wave
Date of ascent : 11/03/2011
Route name : Bring on the Pain Extension
Length/grade/stars : V6
Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker
Start location:
Scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. Start at the lowest part of the rock down the sheet of rock, start sitting and traverse right, continue around the corner.

Pitch descriptions:
About 18 meters long. Pumpy with sharp rock some of the problem has big jugs then some has tiny crimps etc.

Additional info:
Bouldering, No known repeats but possible.

Submitted by : Pete Saunders
Area : South Devon and Dartmoor
Crag : Devil's Rock
Date of ascent : 6/6/2011
Route name : Ultimate Eliminate Direct
Length/grade/stars : 50m E3
Climbers : Pete Saunders
Start location:
Starts up CCSD

Pitch descriptions:
An improved direct version of the original route to give a sustained climb of great character with an airy climax. It has 4 metres of new climbing on the arete. P1 5c. 30m Climb CCSD and step left onto the tree on CC Direct. Make tenuous moves up the arete ending at good holds and a small wire on the microgranite band. Continue to belay on the huge bollard. P2 5b. 20m Climb the arete and wall right of the chimney of CCD. Continue up the face with a reachy move onto the headwall in a magnificent position.

Additional info:
Cleaned and prepractised on a shunt. The Original version of Ultimate Eliminate climbed by myself and Nick Hancock joined the arete at half height from the right.